Dragged it upstairs to my loft (it's bloody heavy) and plugged into my computer head phone socket and what a difference. It was loud with my phone but sounded pretty lifeless, on the computer it has much more depth and my gosh does it go loud.
Time to look for a new portable source device.
I have scrolled and scrolled and scrolled and i dont seem to find what filters to use and the plans for the halfinator can someone help me? I really want to build a halfinator with the mpt001 tweeter and hp10 and i want to do it correctly.
Does the amplifier used change the filters I need?
Does the amplifier used change the filters I need?
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Hi people good to see this thread is still popular.
Some years ago I did my "orange feeling" boominator and it was quite the success. Over the years it's taken some pounding and I think it's time for a little upgrade.
With the upgrade Im repainting, building a tpa3116 amp 50-150w.
What I am wondering is if any of u guys have tried this and if any modification needs to be done when going from amp6 to tpa3116, like filters and such maybe components need to be exchanged for a better fit, sound and durability.
Regards, will be putting some pics later on when stuffs actually happening. Painting the box should be fairly clear to people by now how you do it lol.
Some years ago I did my "orange feeling" boominator and it was quite the success. Over the years it's taken some pounding and I think it's time for a little upgrade.
With the upgrade Im repainting, building a tpa3116 amp 50-150w.
What I am wondering is if any of u guys have tried this and if any modification needs to be done when going from amp6 to tpa3116, like filters and such maybe components need to be exchanged for a better fit, sound and durability.
Regards, will be putting some pics later on when stuffs actually happening. Painting the box should be fairly clear to people by now how you do it lol.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/clas...b-ultimate-party-machine-435.html#post3700644
Thanks for the list of recommended amps Saturnus, there is no better as of today i guess? the max amp is only the 25w and id like to go for something like the amp9 with 50w.
If there is nothing good to gain from going higher than 25w then please correct me, i would not wory about power, use 30w solar setup should manage more load.
c ya
Thanks for the list of recommended amps Saturnus, there is no better as of today i guess? the max amp is only the 25w and id like to go for something like the amp9 with 50w.
If there is nothing good to gain from going higher than 25w then please correct me, i would not wory about power, use 30w solar setup should manage more load.
c ya
aterren - was this in response to my question or Darkwithin's?
I'm frustrated, as I’m sure everyone else is, that 41hz is gone, and I was hoping that Saturnus with his seemingly bottomless wealth of knowledge would have a specific readily available alternative for the Amp9 in the signature boominator.
Since I’ve spent the money on the P.Audio SN-10MB II's I really don’t want to sacrifice on the amp quality and power now.
I have one last hope in fixing my Amp9 which is to replace the small IC. I accidentally soldered it directly to the board not seeing that there was a little mount for it... i may have overheated it and fried it.. replacing the tripath chip didn’t fix it.
If I'd go for a high power amp right now it'd be the TPA3251d. Amazing chip, but currently no premade boards available. 5th Element, DrMord and Gmarsh have been doing some designs with them, but nothing is really for sale. Did your board smoke, if not: thermal chips in the problem should be fixed by replacing the chip. Shouldn't damage any other components. Are you sure you soldered it right?
@bartwest, no new boominator design. Saturnus has announced a MINI v3 though, although that's probably far away. Also; won't be DIY.
@bartwest, no new boominator design. Saturnus has announced a MINI v3 though, although that's probably far away. Also; won't be DIY.
(Or 3251 at lower switching frequency)The clip pin is very interesting for use with an intelligent PSU. Watch the pin with a MCU, then raise rail voltage when it goes high (as described in the datasheet). Don't know how well that works in real world applications. If you use a rotary encoder + MCU + digipot combination for the volume control you could even watch the clip pin output and use it as a sort of digital limiter when it reaches the second rail voltage, although it's a bit sensitive (especially with high crest factor input).
Pretty sure i soldered it correctly.
No smoke. Symptoms are that the tripath chip just heats up and no signal is output.
Also the mute led does't come on even if i jump the mute pins.
I replaced the tripath chip and same result with the second one. I have a third one but I'm not willing to risk it without addressing any other issues first.
No smoke. Symptoms are that the tripath chip just heats up and no signal is output.
Also the mute led does't come on even if i jump the mute pins.
I replaced the tripath chip and same result with the second one. I have a third one but I'm not willing to risk it without addressing any other issues first.
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It was for you. I have a set of SN-10MBs too and plan to drive the tweeters with a stereo TPA3116 and the woofers with a TPA3116 in bridge tied load (double the power).
I could have been clearer and I made a typo. The plan is to use 4 channels of amplification using 3 TPA3116 chips. Channels 1 and 2 will be from a single TPA3116 with a nominal power output of 50W/ch into 4 Ohms. The left and right woofers will each be driven by their own TPA3116 in PBTL (parallel bridge tied load) which doubles the power output.