Thanks for your reply Brotaku, but I thought this B4 charger actually is a balance charger, that's what is says in the description and also charges automatically: it doesn't have a button or whatsoever.
"The Turnigy B4 Compact Balance Charger makes charging of your Lipoly batteries easier than ever before. With no current limits or cell counts to set, you simply connect your battery to the B4 and it starts charging automatically. The charge current is variable, determined by the capacity and charge state of your battery. The max charging current is 4A (up to 35W)."
"The Turnigy B4 Compact Balance Charger makes charging of your Lipoly batteries easier than ever before. With no current limits or cell counts to set, you simply connect your battery to the B4 and it starts charging automatically. The charge current is variable, determined by the capacity and charge state of your battery. The max charging current is 4A (up to 35W)."
Hello all and greetings from Cape Town, South Africa. We've just completed a Boominator in hot pink 
For any South Africans out there
- I got the HP-10W drivers from Prosound Pty Ltd, and they actually worked out a bit cheaper than the European stockists (Although I had to wait 6 months)
- All the other critical electronics I bought overseas and had friends bring it over in their hand luggage.
- Birch ply was easy to get from Timboard
It's been good fun building a Boominator, and I've learnt a lot along the way. Thanks to the forum members who helped out a little selecting the correct parts, filters etc.
Obviously a huge thanks to Saturnus for open sourcing his work and giving us all hours and hours of entertainment!
For any South Africans out there
- I got the HP-10W drivers from Prosound Pty Ltd, and they actually worked out a bit cheaper than the European stockists (Although I had to wait 6 months)
- All the other critical electronics I bought overseas and had friends bring it over in their hand luggage.
- Birch ply was easy to get from Timboard
It's been good fun building a Boominator, and I've learnt a lot along the way. Thanks to the forum members who helped out a little selecting the correct parts, filters etc.
Obviously a huge thanks to Saturnus for open sourcing his work and giving us all hours and hours of entertainment!
First little parts arrived for my Boominator:
Some switches:
Parts to mount the front panel:
I'm planning on lasercutting the front panel like this:
Two neutriks at the bottom, three switches (ON/OFF, momentary switch for the voltage gauge at the top, Bluetooth ON/OFF) In between the neutriks and the switches I'm planning on placing a volume knob and a DPDT for the signal switching to the amp.
However, I'm doubting about the bluetooth. I'm reading many stories on the ground loop noise. It can be reduced by using a 600 ohm's 1:1 transformer, but it affects the sound. Is it recommended using that kind of ground loop isolator or is the sound quality very poor when using the boominator?
Some switches:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Parts to mount the front panel:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I'm planning on lasercutting the front panel like this:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Two neutriks at the bottom, three switches (ON/OFF, momentary switch for the voltage gauge at the top, Bluetooth ON/OFF) In between the neutriks and the switches I'm planning on placing a volume knob and a DPDT for the signal switching to the amp.
However, I'm doubting about the bluetooth. I'm reading many stories on the ground loop noise. It can be reduced by using a 600 ohm's 1:1 transformer, but it affects the sound. Is it recommended using that kind of ground loop isolator or is the sound quality very poor when using the boominator?
Completed build
I've just completed my build. I owe a big "thank you" in four different area:
1. As many others have posted before me, thanks to Saturnus for starting and continuing to support this thread.
2. Also, special thanks to lutkeveld, who handled some specific build questions when I couldn't find answers in this thread.
3. To Ruud at Accusafe, for patiently walking me through the process of selecting the proper gear.
4. Thanks to all the posts began "This may be a stupid question, but....". I found myself gaining tons of info from these simple posts, because they were the same questions I had.
I cannot add any technical information that hasn't already been covered here, so all I will add is encouragement. I had ZERO electronics experience going into this project. Throughout the course of the build I learned about 12v systems and requirements, soldering, acoustic properties, and how big a difference preparation makes in a project like this. If I can pull this off (with the help of the contributors to the forum, of course) then anyone can.
Be patient, be persistent, don't be afraid to ask questions you might think are silly (provided you read through the forum already and couldn't find an answer), and trust your gut.
Thanks again!!
I've just completed my build. I owe a big "thank you" in four different area:
1. As many others have posted before me, thanks to Saturnus for starting and continuing to support this thread.
2. Also, special thanks to lutkeveld, who handled some specific build questions when I couldn't find answers in this thread.
3. To Ruud at Accusafe, for patiently walking me through the process of selecting the proper gear.
4. Thanks to all the posts began "This may be a stupid question, but....". I found myself gaining tons of info from these simple posts, because they were the same questions I had.
I cannot add any technical information that hasn't already been covered here, so all I will add is encouragement. I had ZERO electronics experience going into this project. Throughout the course of the build I learned about 12v systems and requirements, soldering, acoustic properties, and how big a difference preparation makes in a project like this. If I can pull this off (with the help of the contributors to the forum, of course) then anyone can.
Be patient, be persistent, don't be afraid to ask questions you might think are silly (provided you read through the forum already and couldn't find an answer), and trust your gut.
Thanks again!!
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Boominator Noob
I have been studying this thread and other boominator sites online for the last few months trying to learn as much as possible on this system before I begin trying to build my own. The wood working part will be easy for me but the electronics part is over my head! I am located in the USA so some parts were hard to find but I think I have my parts list complete. The attached images are preliminary drawings for my boominator and a parts list / budget.
Questions:
I have been studying this thread and other boominator sites online for the last few months trying to learn as much as possible on this system before I begin trying to build my own. The wood working part will be easy for me but the electronics part is over my head! I am located in the USA so some parts were hard to find but I think I have my parts list complete. The attached images are preliminary drawings for my boominator and a parts list / budget.
Questions:
- Can you guys look this over and see if anything looks way off please?
- Anything I am missing?
- Anywhere I can save some money (total seems pretty high)?
- Does anyone have a complete wiring guide they would be willing to share?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I'm very new to this so I know it's the small things is what I need help with!
I am understanding more about the wiring of the boominator but still have a lot of unknowns. I thought you were putting one amp per pair of speakers (and one battery per amp) but now I see you have one amp driving the whole system. I trust the experts, it's just crazy because I know I have two 10" subs in my truck and a 1500w amp pushing those subs alone.
I will be using this boominator for kids sporting activities so 4-6 hours of run time between charges will probably be plenty. I am willing to give up battery life in exchange for quality sound and portability. Are there items I could exchange in order to achieve quality and portability if I'm okay with less battery time?
I am understanding more about the wiring of the boominator but still have a lot of unknowns. I thought you were putting one amp per pair of speakers (and one battery per amp) but now I see you have one amp driving the whole system. I trust the experts, it's just crazy because I know I have two 10" subs in my truck and a 1500w amp pushing those subs alone.
I will be using this boominator for kids sporting activities so 4-6 hours of run time between charges will probably be plenty. I am willing to give up battery life in exchange for quality sound and portability. Are there items I could exchange in order to achieve quality and portability if I'm okay with less battery time?
I'm on mobile now, ill make an adjusted parts list tomorrow.
Dont know if the Boominator will be too happy handeling that much power Doc. I think a TPA3118 would be better suited.
By the way: Saturnus, is there a reason a Boominator has never been bi-amped? I think active filtering would be very well suited to the Boominator.
Dont know if the Boominator will be too happy handeling that much power Doc
. I think a TPA3118 would be better suited.By the way: Saturnus, is there a reason a Boominator has never been bi-amped? I think active filtering would be very well suited to the Boominator.
I like the idea of pumping more power into the speakers if you can suggest an amp that doesn't crack/pop or loose quality when it's near max levels.
I'd love to use the P.Audio SN-10MB Series II and P.Audio PHT-407N because of the quality difference that this thread has said it'll make but I can't find either for sale in the USA and shipping outside the USA is pretty crazy!
I did look at the MaxAmp20 but AccuSafe is the only place I could find them for sale and at over $100 shipping to the USA on a $30 amp seems kind of silly.
One more question; these boominators are being built with 12mm plywood (1/2"). I know there is a weight difference (could be 15 - 20 lbs) but what would the quality difference be if using 3/4" plywood? 3/4" blonde birch which (pre-primed and 11-13 ply) is easy to get around here. Is it worth the extra weight or does the divider/support in the middle stiffen it up enough that it wouldn't make much of a difference?
I'd love to use the P.Audio SN-10MB Series II and P.Audio PHT-407N because of the quality difference that this thread has said it'll make but I can't find either for sale in the USA and shipping outside the USA is pretty crazy!
I did look at the MaxAmp20 but AccuSafe is the only place I could find them for sale and at over $100 shipping to the USA on a $30 amp seems kind of silly.
One more question; these boominators are being built with 12mm plywood (1/2"). I know there is a weight difference (could be 15 - 20 lbs) but what would the quality difference be if using 3/4" plywood? 3/4" blonde birch which (pre-primed and 11-13 ply) is easy to get around here. Is it worth the extra weight or does the divider/support in the middle stiffen it up enough that it wouldn't make much of a difference?
The SN10MB isn't that much of an upgrade over the HP10W, the PHT407N is a very good upgrade over the piezos however.
I think shipping is way lower, contact Accusafe for custom shipping rates. 1/2" plywood is plenty. You could also go for the TPA3118 for increased power, since you don't need days on days of runtime. With a 5S lithium ion pack you'll have a powerful, lightweight and reasonably cheap setup. You only need one amp (two channels), one battery and one voltmeter (optional). I don't see the need for solar panels with your requirements.
I think shipping is way lower, contact Accusafe for custom shipping rates. 1/2" plywood is plenty. You could also go for the TPA3118 for increased power, since you don't need days on days of runtime. With a 5S lithium ion pack you'll have a powerful, lightweight and reasonably cheap setup. You only need one amp (two channels), one battery and one voltmeter (optional). I don't see the need for solar panels with your requirements.
Of course, a subsonic filter and possibly some eqi'ing is needed to keep things "in place".
I actually use a TPA3251D2 + DSP within my bike-setup. The 2x175W gives a good amount of headroom and enough Ompf when needed.
(Having 2 horn loaded compression tweeters, 2 8" fullrange chassis - all in parallel and a 15" 4R sub in 128 liters BR tuned to rather high 85Hz to not loose power at frequencies you won't get out to the air. Sub sonic is fitted at 65Hz (36dB)
I like the ideas!
So for quality, you think the SN10MB and PHT407N is best combination?
The stereo in my truck let's you feel the beat it in your chest and I'd love to have a little of that with the Boominator. I am also pretty incompetent when it comes to the electronics/wiring and small details. I have read/skimmed most of the pages of this thread but could sure use some more help (lots of dead links). Any and everything is appreciated (like keeping everything "in place"). I'm relying on the experts here!
THANKS!
So for quality, you think the SN10MB and PHT407N is best combination?
The stereo in my truck let's you feel the beat it in your chest and I'd love to have a little of that with the Boominator. I am also pretty incompetent when it comes to the electronics/wiring and small details. I have read/skimmed most of the pages of this thread but could sure use some more help (lots of dead links). Any and everything is appreciated (like keeping everything "in place"). I'm relying on the experts here!
THANKS!
Hello Abayley.
First of, 4-6 hours play does not need 2x20ah! Start with 1x10ah 12v Li-ion, it should be plenty for a hole day.
And if you are not comfortable with electronics, drop the solar panels. They are only good for festivals and such, where you are without power for days at a time. They are expensive og delicate (both physically and electric). Plus... without panels on top, you can let the children party on top of the boomer, without being worried. My Roskilde Camp, have one of the Boominator prototypes, and we are grown men (80-100kg) standing on top of it, without troubles.
Next. DO NOT go with the ta-2020. even though its one of the greatest inventions in history, its about 30 års old.
Personally I have great experience with the tda7498 (35vdc) and the tda7492 (26vdc) with a 300w boost converter to match the required voltage. This gives a lot bang for the buck, and bang for the power consumption.
Otherwise, if you dont want the boost converter. Use the Maxamp, which is Saturnus' preferred Amp until the "C-amp" gets to marked. C-AMP 1224DSP - Canopy Sound
Correct me if I am wrong, Saturnus.
In my opinion the maxamp and the ta-2020 doesn't play loud enough.
Links:
TDA7498 amp:
tda7498 | eBay
300w Boost converter:
300w boost | eBay
I will try to upload a pdf with the wire diagram.
I reversed the polarity on the piezos, and found it to sound better then straight connecting.
First of, 4-6 hours play does not need 2x20ah! Start with 1x10ah 12v Li-ion, it should be plenty for a hole day.
And if you are not comfortable with electronics, drop the solar panels. They are only good for festivals and such, where you are without power for days at a time. They are expensive og delicate (both physically and electric). Plus... without panels on top, you can let the children party on top of the boomer, without being worried. My Roskilde Camp, have one of the Boominator prototypes, and we are grown men (80-100kg) standing on top of it, without troubles.
Next. DO NOT go with the ta-2020. even though its one of the greatest inventions in history, its about 30 års old.
Personally I have great experience with the tda7498 (35vdc) and the tda7492 (26vdc) with a 300w boost converter to match the required voltage. This gives a lot bang for the buck, and bang for the power consumption.
Otherwise, if you dont want the boost converter. Use the Maxamp, which is Saturnus' preferred Amp until the "C-amp" gets to marked. C-AMP 1224DSP - Canopy Sound
Correct me if I am wrong, Saturnus.
In my opinion the maxamp and the ta-2020 doesn't play loud enough.
Links:
TDA7498 amp:
tda7498 | eBay
300w Boost converter:
300w boost | eBay
I will try to upload a pdf with the wire diagram.
I reversed the polarity on the piezos, and found it to sound better then straight connecting.
The SN10mb & PHT407N is the "Signature" version. Which is definitely better sounding.
It is also more expensive and more complicated. You will need a real crossover instead of just the 47 ohm "crossover" on the piezos. Mostly used is the minidsp 2x4. I don't even know if there is an "Saturnus designed" analog crossover for the Signature version.
I forgot, I also went with 56 Ohm 5W Metal Oxide Film Resistors 5% on the piezos instead of 47 ohm. It makes the highs more smooth, in my opinion. Also cheap on ebay.
AND... Don't forget to play in the drivers, I only have experience with Hp-10w. Because of the stiff surrounds they really need play in time. I used an old smartphone with a sine wave generator at 50 & 70 hz and jogged them for about 100 hours with low to medium amplitude.
It just doesn't sound well, if you crank them up, straight out of the box.
It is also more expensive and more complicated. You will need a real crossover instead of just the 47 ohm "crossover" on the piezos. Mostly used is the minidsp 2x4. I don't even know if there is an "Saturnus designed" analog crossover for the Signature version.
I forgot, I also went with 56 Ohm 5W Metal Oxide Film Resistors 5% on the piezos instead of 47 ohm. It makes the highs more smooth, in my opinion. Also cheap on ebay.
AND... Don't forget to play in the drivers, I only have experience with Hp-10w. Because of the stiff surrounds they really need play in time. I used an old smartphone with a sine wave generator at 50 & 70 hz and jogged them for about 100 hours with low to medium amplitude.
It just doesn't sound well, if you crank them up, straight out of the box.
I talked to the guys at Canopy Sound and they say the A-AMP Standard will be available for purchase around the new year. The C-AMP 1224DSP will be a bit longer before it is set to production.
So, is it worth waiting for the C-AMP Standard or should I look at something different? Does the C-AMP Standard have items built in that will simplify the build, allow better quality, give more power, be more efficient, etc.?
So, is it worth waiting for the C-AMP Standard or should I look at something different? Does the C-AMP Standard have items built in that will simplify the build, allow better quality, give more power, be more efficient, etc.?