Please take a look to the attachment.
I got this for about 2.5 US$/pcs from local supplier.
The strange thing is, if LM4562 has 10mA Quiescent current, why my NE5532(Iq=4.5mA) is more hot(warmer) than LM4562?
Is it new TI batch marking now have 8 digit? JR12AEE3 ??
Is the leg seems genuine?
The other strange thing if it fake is, why it sound more detail than my NE5532..
I'm sooo confused!
I got this for about 2.5 US$/pcs from local supplier.
The strange thing is, if LM4562 has 10mA Quiescent current, why my NE5532(Iq=4.5mA) is more hot(warmer) than LM4562?
Is it new TI batch marking now have 8 digit? JR12AEE3 ??
Is the leg seems genuine?
The other strange thing if it fake is, why it sound more detail than my NE5532..
I'm sooo confused!

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It looks dubious to me. The lettering isn't perfect for one thing, some appear to be at an angle and some out of line. The 5532 has a higher Iq than 4.5ma. 10 to 12 ma would be typical for the total combined current of the two amps in one package. A 4562 and 5532 probably run at around the same temperature from what I remember of them.
Hi Mooly,
you see the right IC have a words on it: K O R E A 12 (and X in the midle)
the left IC have : K O R E A 13 (and X in the midle)
why are there have different bottom body mark/stamp for the same batch JR12AEE3 ?
but, I don't quite care anymore, they sound pretty good!
my ears don't eat number, they eat good music.. 😛
regards!
you see the right IC have a words on it: K O R E A 12 (and X in the midle)
the left IC have : K O R E A 13 (and X in the midle)
why are there have different bottom body mark/stamp for the same batch JR12AEE3 ?
but, I don't quite care anymore, they sound pretty good!
my ears don't eat number, they eat good music.. 😛
regards!
I got curious and so took some close ups of the 4562's I have and tbh the same things I criticise in yours are apparent in mine too.
They are physically a little different but in fairness having seen mine I wouldn't like to say.
They are physically a little different but in fairness having seen mine I wouldn't like to say.
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according to TI batch numbering, my batch number JR..., the wafer fab plant should be made in Greenock, UK. and the Assembly Plant sub-con should be in Malaysia. but the bottom stamped Korea.
yours is 2B... that should be Taiwan & Thailand respectively.
I'm in total confuse!!
need to take a naap.....
yours is 2B... that should be Taiwan & Thailand respectively.
I'm in total confuse!!
need to take a naap.....
Yo Mooly, I think mine was fake.
I just check the Iq, its only draw about 4uA (total)...
😡 🙁
I agree, they're fake. I just went and looked at my batch of 4562's and the look exactly like Mooly's with a different date code.
Mike
This is the ones I bought in Digikey, hopefully it's real!!! I bought it like 4 months ago.
Guys, you have better eyes than me. The only difference is the Korea at the back.
BTW, just to double check, when OP measure 4uA supply current, are both opamps have NFB and biased to the right voltage like in a real circuit? Because if the IC is just plugged in with all the I/O pins open, I can see there can be possibility of having low supply current. This is because without proper bias, the CCS inside saturate and totally stop functioning and not drawing current.
Just a thought.
Guys, you have better eyes than me. The only difference is the Korea at the back.
BTW, just to double check, when OP measure 4uA supply current, are both opamps have NFB and biased to the right voltage like in a real circuit? Because if the IC is just plugged in with all the I/O pins open, I can see there can be possibility of having low supply current. This is because without proper bias, the CCS inside saturate and totally stop functioning and not drawing current.
Just a thought.
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This is the ones I bought in Digikey, hopefully it's real!!!
Look just like mine, and for what it's worth, I've been doing business with Digi-Key ever since their start-up, have spent literally thousands of dollars there and I've never had a problem.
Mike
Look just like mine, and for what it's worth, I've been doing business with Digi-Key ever since their start-up, have spent literally thousands of dollars there and I've never had a problem.
Mike
I never realize there are so many fakes until now!!!
I do stick to big companies like Digikey, Allied, Newark and Mouser for semi conductors and even capacitors. I only go cheap with resistors.
Particular IC and transistor is not easy to test all the parameters.
Yo Mooly, I think mine was fake.
I just check the Iq, its only draw about 4uA (total)...
😡 🙁
No doubt about it.
4uA. That's crazy low. Wonder if they are even opamps as that would be specialist low power territory.
It's on a fully functional circuit, I just swap the OpAmp. My OPA2604 draw about 8mA.This is the ones I bought in Digikey, hopefully it's real!!! I bought it like 4 months ago.
Guys, you have better eyes than me. The only difference is the Korea at the back.
BTW, just to double check, when OP measure 4uA supply current, are both opamps have NFB and biased to the right voltage like in a real circuit? Because if the IC is just plugged in with all the I/O pins open, I can see there can be possibility of having low supply current. This is because without proper bias, the CCS inside saturate and totally stop functioning and not drawing current.
Just a thought.
Digikey is reliable resource I guess, no need to worry to buy from there 🙂
I'm so sorry, I forgottttt.....No doubt about it.
4uA. That's crazy low. Wonder if they are even opamps as that would be specialist low power territory.
Its not 4uA, its 400uA 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀
I will edit my post... 😛
WoW, I can't edit my previous post?? no EDIT button!
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Look just like mine, and for what it's worth, I've been doing business with Digi-Key ever since their start-up, have spent literally thousands of dollars there and I've never had a problem.
Mike
My four digit customer number begins with a 3! But I never did buy a keyer from them. Amazing how they have grown. They did dabble with a division that sells non-factory parts, but that was clearly labelled. Got a roll of white LEDs that way. Enough to light my entire house.
After one project I skipped buying from them for a bit, they called and asked if anything was wrong!
So when possible buying from an AUTHORIZED distributor is a good idea. However in many places there are none. What has just recently shown up is on eBay folks showing pictures of the real part and shipping fakes. I believe in some versions of English "Genuine" means guaranteed fake. As far as I know no manufacturer ever actually labels their parts as "Genuine."
The other guideline is to look at the 1000 piece price from a real online distributor and compare that to the bargain price. If in production quantities of a current part it costs more than what you are being offered, skip it.
Yes 4 uA is leakage current, 400 uA is certainly not a low noise part.
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Maybe they are TL062's at around 400uA. The thing is though, they could be anything, they could be sub standard versions of what they originally were, you just don't know.
Chalk it up to experience and bin them would be my advice.
Chalk it up to experience and bin them would be my advice.
Maybe they are TL062's at around 400uA. The thing is though, they could be anything, they could be sub standard versions of what they originally were, you just don't know.
Chalk it up to experience and bin them would be my advice.
If they sound good keep them, would be my advice. Just use them at a higher impedance and voltage level than a real one.
If they sound good keep them, would be my advice. Just use them at a higher impedance and voltage level than a real one.
Yeah, I don't know...reliability could be a real problem. By the way, the only time I've had a Digi-Key part fail, I'm pretty sure it was my own damned fault as in my thread here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/chip-amps/275990-lm3875-let-out-magic-smoke.html
Mike
😀😀What has just recently shown up is on eBay folks showing pictures of the real part and shipping fakes. I believe in some versions of English "Genuine" means guaranteed fake. As far as I know no manufacturer ever actually labels their parts as "Genuine."
Maybe they are TL062's at around 400uA. The thing is though, they could be anything, they could be sub standard versions of what they originally were, you just don't know.
Chalk it up to experience and bin them would be my advice.
Ya I will keep them just in case. 😉If they sound good keep them, would be my advice. Just use them at a higher impedance and voltage level than a real one.
This is what I see physically, the leg...
* price don't lies
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I never even give it serious thought until two days ago when I found Utsource where transistors like only 50% the price. Now I got a little suspicious. I came here to search and sure enough there is a big thread on them.
If it is too good to be true, they usually is.
Is our hobby here really demand the volume that worth them counterfeit these parts? It's not like they sell millions......Thousands if they are lucky. I cannot imagine they can sell 1000 of this opamp. face it, this audiophile is a very small field.
If it is too good to be true, they usually is.
Is our hobby here really demand the volume that worth them counterfeit these parts? It's not like they sell millions......Thousands if they are lucky. I cannot imagine they can sell 1000 of this opamp. face it, this audiophile is a very small field.
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