Reddish - Um, sorry to ask the obvious, but you are trying to measure the waveforms with the chassis upright and the platter turning, yes?
Is it running at correct speed - is the strobe locked in? These settings do not set speed. If the adjustment is too far off it may not lock, but these settings are to adjust the PLL - if the platter isn't locked something else is probably wrong.
What's the history on this table, and what's been done to it? I noticed non-standard wiring for your start/stop switch. Was this a P deck? Did it have variable pitch at one point?
What's the history on this table, and what's been done to it? I noticed non-standard wiring for your start/stop switch. Was this a P deck? Did it have variable pitch at one point?
Took my Sp10/2 round to my friend this morning and set it up on blocks,connected scope and checked.Spot on,and that's after replacing all the caps.Did tweak VR101 slightly and back again and saw the trace alter.
Didn't hurt at all!
Now just have to set up my spare V15/3 SAS in the SME3 arm that came on the SP10 so I can compare it to my 401,well as far as I can with different arms and cable.
Then it's on to make a new arm board to fit my Fr64fx and see which ttable I want to use full time!
Didn't hurt at all!
Now just have to set up my spare V15/3 SAS in the SME3 arm that came on the SP10 so I can compare it to my 401,well as far as I can with different arms and cable.
Then it's on to make a new arm board to fit my Fr64fx and see which ttable I want to use full time!
Hi Jp, the strobes not locked in on 33/44 its nearly there just not quite, 78rpm locks fine on the strobe.
Yes this was a p/l deck but the logic board has been swapped out for a regular SP10 board to give start/stop functionality back, its been recapped and the phase transistors (tr1-6) have been replaced on the drive circuit board as some of these had blown, problem is now with my limited knowledge of this is I don't know where to look next.
BBC versions often had remote functions. The photo shows non-original start/stop wiring, so clearly someone has done some work after it left the BBC.
I see now that PCB's have been changed and it has been recapped and some motor driver output transistors have been changed.
The P/L service manual is on Vinyl Engine (right at the bottom of the list) but it is not a P/L anymore ? I modify original P/L's by dead-bugging a flip/flop between the start switch and the old logic board, I can't remember why the P/L PCB doesn't have the facility to add the missing parts.
It is quite possible the PLL is slightly out, if it locks on 78rpm then the adjustment at T & S should cure it. These PLL settings are the same for any version. However the SP-10 is not for beginners.
I see now that PCB's have been changed and it has been recapped and some motor driver output transistors have been changed.
The P/L service manual is on Vinyl Engine (right at the bottom of the list) but it is not a P/L anymore ? I modify original P/L's by dead-bugging a flip/flop between the start switch and the old logic board, I can't remember why the P/L PCB doesn't have the facility to add the missing parts.
It is quite possible the PLL is slightly out, if it locks on 78rpm then the adjustment at T & S should cure it. These PLL settings are the same for any version. However the SP-10 is not for beginners.
The PLL is out but I cannot get the correct waveform to display on my scope, when I say 78 locks, I mean it locks to the strobe, already have the service manuals, I guess now the logic boards been changed I should be looking at the sp10 euro manual?
I'd put just scope channel 1 on test point S and see if you can get the triangle waveform. Aside from that I'm not much help as my MKII didn't cause me any issue - I'm far more familiar with the MK2A/3 circuit.
Thanks, I'll check these suggestions later, in the meantime dies anyone else have trouble soldering to these PCB's with the solder bubbling whilst setting?
There a conformal coating on the boards - that's what's melting and getting in to the solder and causing it to bubble.
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I didn't remove it - I used a vacuum desoldering tool to get the joints I was working on as clean as possible, which also melted off a bit of the conformal coating adjacent to the pad. Soldering I made sure I could get on and off the joint quick to prevent the coating adjacent to the joint melting and contaminating the joint. If it did I started over.
I don't know the proper method, but this worked for me. Getting temp and dwell time right is important to keep the coating from melting in to the joint.
I don't know the proper method, but this worked for me. Getting temp and dwell time right is important to keep the coating from melting in to the joint.
Only yesterday I had a field surveyed for dormice, strangely that's what they said too ! 🙂
But I actually meant #710 which I think might be revealing ? 😕
BTW, I do love it when you American guys get up at lunchtime ! 😉
But I actually meant #710 which I think might be revealing ? 😕
BTW, I do love it when you American guys get up at lunchtime ! 😉
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