Does seem rather greedy, however this ones for a friend of mine so I'd like to get it sorted. Externally its a dog but the bearing and motor seem good, just need to get the f***er working!
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I think three is just the right number... so far.
MKII's are easiest to repair parts-wise as everything in it can be replaced by current components with a couple small tweaks. I've never done it, but the information I've read on it makes sense.
MK2A's uses proprietary ICs - if one of those go, these days you're looking for a donor table to get replacements.
Make sure your supply voltages are in spec. It doesn't take a lot of variance for the logic supply to cause the issues you're seeing.
MKII's are easiest to repair parts-wise as everything in it can be replaced by current components with a couple small tweaks. I've never done it, but the information I've read on it makes sense.
MK2A's uses proprietary ICs - if one of those go, these days you're looking for a donor table to get replacements.
Make sure your supply voltages are in spec. It doesn't take a lot of variance for the logic supply to cause the issues you're seeing.
Hi Folks,
Good to join you all on this thread.
I've been fortunate enough to be able to rescue this pair from a certain journey to the scrapheap.
In rather sorry condition, cosmetically poor and very tatty (one being worse than the other) but essentially sound, important thing is they both appear to spin up. Come with issues though - one which won't select 45rpm, one with brake issues and start/stop switch issues, both with strobe issues.
Both ex-broadcast SP10-MKII's which have been built into purpose-made mdf enclosures (although both falling apart) with cue and remote stop/start for the radio studio (original sh10-e psu's still in place inside the cabinet). What looks like the remains of two peizo pu-402 tonearms (minus the extra counterbalance on each).
Complete strip and rebuild on the cards i think with a planned re-cap in the mix aswell. Plenty of issues to sort and this will likely be a long journey so I will be needing to lean on some expert help from fellow experts along the way, but looking forward to the challenge to hopefully end up with a decent record spinner!
BTW - the model labels both are "SP10MKII-XGE" - does anyone have a copy of the service manual for that specific model? The only ones i can find on vinyl engine website seem to be for the M, MC, EG or XGF - not XGE. I could do with the right one so that the settings when i come to re-cap are done right.
Chris.
Good to join you all on this thread.
I've been fortunate enough to be able to rescue this pair from a certain journey to the scrapheap.
In rather sorry condition, cosmetically poor and very tatty (one being worse than the other) but essentially sound, important thing is they both appear to spin up. Come with issues though - one which won't select 45rpm, one with brake issues and start/stop switch issues, both with strobe issues.
Both ex-broadcast SP10-MKII's which have been built into purpose-made mdf enclosures (although both falling apart) with cue and remote stop/start for the radio studio (original sh10-e psu's still in place inside the cabinet). What looks like the remains of two peizo pu-402 tonearms (minus the extra counterbalance on each).
Complete strip and rebuild on the cards i think with a planned re-cap in the mix aswell. Plenty of issues to sort and this will likely be a long journey so I will be needing to lean on some expert help from fellow experts along the way, but looking forward to the challenge to hopefully end up with a decent record spinner!
BTW - the model labels both are "SP10MKII-XGE" - does anyone have a copy of the service manual for that specific model? The only ones i can find on vinyl engine website seem to be for the M, MC, EG or XGF - not XGE. I could do with the right one so that the settings when i come to re-cap are done right.
Chris.
All I can say is 'you lucky b*******' 🙂
Good luck, and you will certainly find help here.
Good luck, and you will certainly find help here.
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skipperdip - Fantastic news! Welcome to the thread. 🙂
If you would, post lots of photos during all stages of the restoration please. 😀 😀 😀
If you would, post lots of photos during all stages of the restoration please. 😀 😀 😀
Also note the probes must be set at 10x and not 1x. 1x loads the circuit and it won't work.
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Both the labels on both SP10's underneath are both "SP10MKII-XGE" - is that of special significance ie does it represent a special model of the SP10 (ie broadcast?)?
Does anyone have a copy of the service manual for that specific model? The only ones i can find on vinyl engine website seem to be for the M, MC, EG or XGF - not XGE. I could do with the right one so that the settings to check, when i come to re-cap, are done to the right tolerances (incase they differ between models)
Thanks.
Chris.
Does anyone have a copy of the service manual for that specific model? The only ones i can find on vinyl engine website seem to be for the M, MC, EG or XGF - not XGE. I could do with the right one so that the settings to check, when i come to re-cap, are done to the right tolerances (incase they differ between models)
Thanks.
Chris.
I believe all the broadcast models are based on the MKII. Does it use the SH-10E power supply? Any extra cable coming out of the motor chassis?
Use point O for ground as the manual says. You only need to ground one probe.
Yes, you need to tell the scope you're using a 10x probe so the measurements are right.
Yes, you need to tell the scope you're using a 10x probe so the measurements are right.
I think XGE is a region code, like M (North America) and MC (Canada) are. Sounds like you've a standard MKII. A P version would have a different power supply and an extra cord from the motor. Perhaps Mr. Cawley will chime in as I'm sure he has more specific knowledge on this, but I'm pretty sure it's a standard MKII.
Setting the scope for 5v/div and 5ms/div is a good start, or you could probably hit the Auto button and it'll find the triangle wave on its own. If you've never used a scope before a good way to learn quick is to use the built-in signal on the metal loop at the bottom right of the unit. Hook your probe to that and hit Auto and you should see a square wave. Once there you can play around with the controls to get familiar.