diyAB Amp The "Honey Badger" build thread

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#1,421
thanks OS, reason i asked that is because there are really good listeners
who can tell when an amp has warmed up by listening....😉
i can't, so maybe counting a few minutes will not harm....
this is also a reason why i setting the speaker delay relay/mute a full minute or so....
 
#1,422
AJT said:
thanks OS, reason i asked that is because there are really good listeners
who can tell when an amp has warmed up by listening....😉
i can't, so maybe counting a few minutes will not harm....
this is also a reason why i setting the speaker delay relay/mute a full minute or so....
Click to expand...

And it could be done so easy as ....

long inrushDelay = 3500; // wait for soft start (mS)
long overlapDelay = 500; // overlap before inrush goes off, if "0" - stays on (ms)
long speakersDelay = 3000; // wait before connecting speakers (mS)
Click to expand...
"21st century amplifier protection board" is the ultimate ...
Many other scriptable features (like javascript).

PS - I was just tinkering , touched my input stage - DC protect shut the speakers
off before the cones came out a few mm. (real fast)

Valery Zaichenko (Vzaichenko) has this "alien tech" and boy - it works great.

OS
 
#1,423
Jamesblond said:
What about 8x8200 per channel at 500VA per channel?
I am a bit concerned with inrush- and charging current for the capacitors. Probably install a softstart circuit to be safe?
Click to expand...

Soft start is a good idea, as well as speaker protection.

I'm using 8x15,000uF 105* with a 800VA TX, with both soft start and speaker protection circuits.
Only bad part is I needed an extra 12V Transformer...... something else to fit into the case and maybe cause RF.

Ron
 
#1,424
Renron said:
Soft start is a good idea, as well as speaker protection.

I'm using 8x15,000uF 105* with a 800VA TX, with both soft start and speaker protection circuits.
Only bad part is I needed an extra 12V Transformer...... something else to fit into the case and maybe cause RF.

Ron
Click to expand...

Just use an old tape deck 12-0-12 shielded EI , or even a 12V walwart wrapped
in "GOSS" (grain oriented silicon steel) for an auxiliary trafo.

RF is produced by all your 21'st century "toys" . Good ol' 20th century analog
is "blameless" 😀.

OS
 
#1,425
i will also deploy SOA protection....

i have used auxiliary traffos in many of my builds and never had hum issues because of it...

IMG_2739.jpg
 
#1,426
I'm using the same 12V TX as in my 6SN7 preamp, it has 2 TXs and zero hum. Proper grounding techniques helps. 🙂 OS, you are the master at this, I've read some of the long thread on CSA vs. VSA. Mostly way over my head, but I'm learning. Thank you.

HB question, it's only dumb if I DON'T ask right? 😱
The board has locations for fast-on connecters, and euro blocks.
Q1, Left centered area; why are there 2 locations for (SPK GND)?
- (common) Output to speakers, correct?

Q2, Is the 2nd SPK GND fast-on connector for 0V rail from the Power supply?

Q3, Bottom Right corner; Euro block connector for 0V and IN.
0V from - (common) source and IN from + (positive) source? I realize music is AC but this is convention speak.

Thinking one has "it" right, and knowing are two different things. 🙂
Thanks, I'm getting there!
Ron
 

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#1,430
I'm running everything to a common isolated star point , which I have going to a 35A
ground loop breaker. Short of the breaker , the isolated star would of gone to a solid
chassis ground (along with the inlet earth.)
The loop breaker works better and you can parallel a 10R-1W +.01u across it ...
to eliminate RF from the isolated ground.

Rod Elliot (ESP audio) has the article - Earthing (Grounding) Your Hi-Fi - Tricks and Techniques .

Required reading - don't build the amp till you read it !!😱😱

As a finishing touch ...

- Shield your AC and litz braided triplet rails (shown Below 1/2/3)
- #1 is the litz , #2 is the braided finish - connect the little bare wire to chassis earth.
- #3 is the AC and ESP's loop breaker.
Combined with the ESP article , your HB will have @ -117db hum/noise.
Tested on the wolverine (badger cousin) ....
Better than a 5K$ amp !!! (Pass Labs - Parasound) 😀

Edit - you can obtain the braid from old IDE PC cables or monitor connectors.

OS
 

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#1,431
no problems with electricity and being safe, I've been wiring houses for 20 years and understand what 120 and 240 can do if your not careful. Wife finally stopped bugging me about wearing a ring. Took 18 years.
I lifted the ground on the tube preamp in the photo above. Zero ground hum.
I read that article a few years ago and it's a good refresher today.
Great tip about the braid from an IDE cable, I love stuff like that. 🙂
I'll implement all of your suggestions above.
Thanks,
Ron
 
#1,432
Cool , that's why I use these tricks (licensed electrician). And instrument
engineer at a chemical plant. All "old school tricks , just never used most of
them on audio.
PS- most OEM's fall real short of these techniques. (Use EI's and just place
them as far away from circuitry as possible - it works.)


OS
 
#1,437
ostripper said:
Hopefully , they taught grounding where you are. I keep having to install
ground rods in my rentals (both in albany and tenn.) ?? WOW.
Great for double insulated , what to do with that green wire? 😀

OS
Click to expand...
Green wire? Just cut it off. (jk)
In homes older than the early '60s yes, I've seen a lot of GFCIs with no G. 🙁
Newer than that, almost all have a ground and neutral buss in the service panel.
Had a half an hour argument with an inspector once because I drove the grounding rod in at a 45* angle, he said it needed to be 90*. I won. 😀
Don't get me started on the differences between grounding and bonding!

End of OT.

Ron
 
#1,439
Renron said:
I'm using the same 12V TX as in my 6SN7 preamp, it has 2 TXs and zero hum. Proper grounding techniques helps. 🙂 OS, you are the master at this, I've read some of the long thread on CSA vs. VSA. Mostly way over my head, but I'm learning. Thank you.

HB question, it's only dumb if I DON'T ask right? 😱
The board has locations for fast-on connecters, and euro blocks.
Q1, Left centered area; why are there 2 locations for (SPK GND)?
- (common) Output to speakers, correct?

Q2, Is the 2nd SPK GND fast-on connector for 0V rail from the Power supply?

Q3, Bottom Right corner; Euro block connector for 0V and IN.
0V from - (common) source and IN from + (positive) source? I realize music is AC but this is convention speak.

Thinking one has "it" right, and knowing are two different things. 🙂
Thanks, I'm getting there!
Ron
Click to expand...

Hi Renron,

looking at your build-photo's, I see a diode with "D-BC option"written next to it. I can't find it in the build guide, nor in the BOM. What is it for?
Nice build job! 🙂

Thanks!

James.
 
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