magnet ok on heatsink?
OK….a silly newbie question: Will 2 small magnets (type used for speaker grills) be ok on each heat sink?
I've collected the mesquite from AZ that will be used for the faceplate and top of my soon-to-be-built 4U-Aleph J. Faceplate will be screwed on from inside, and to keep the outside of the wood pure with no showing screws, I'm considering different alternatives (attaching magnets to bottom of top) to attach top to heatsinks or metal rails.
Plenty of ventilation will be provided by offsets and slats in the top. Thanks.
OK….a silly newbie question: Will 2 small magnets (type used for speaker grills) be ok on each heat sink?
I've collected the mesquite from AZ that will be used for the faceplate and top of my soon-to-be-built 4U-Aleph J. Faceplate will be screwed on from inside, and to keep the outside of the wood pure with no showing screws, I'm considering different alternatives (attaching magnets to bottom of top) to attach top to heatsinks or metal rails.
Plenty of ventilation will be provided by offsets and slats in the top. Thanks.
OK….a silly newbie question: Will 2 small magnets (type used for speaker grills) be ok on each heat sink?
I've collected the mesquite from AZ that will be used for the faceplate and top of my soon-to-be-built 4U-Aleph J. Faceplate will be screwed on from inside, and to keep the outside of the wood pure with no showing screws, I'm considering different alternatives (attaching magnets to bottom of top) to attach top to heatsinks or metal rails.
Plenty of ventilation will be provided by offsets and slats in the top. Thanks.
Magnets won't stick to your (aluminum) heatsinks. You could use the steel rails. I seriously doubt that they would interfere with any function of the amp but not 100% sure about that. Personally, I'd try to keep any unnecessary magnetic fields away from it, but I'm usually the overly cautious type.
Mesquite sounds nice, please post pics when done.
Thanks! how about hardware?
Marra's stainless is good. I like brass screws and nuts even better. Just superstition behind this, but brass is closer to copper and no way magnetic. I think of stainless as regular steel that is to busy with extra ingredients to be magnetic. However, at its core, its still steel.
Looking at EM shielding materials, stainless has less shielding than copper, brass, and nickel. The way that shielding works, this result suggests to me that brass screws may react less to EM fields than stainless.
Thanks Alan, I'll see how it may work on the steel rails when the amp is completed and will test how/if the magnets on said rails may affect performance. I'll post pics along the way. Regards,
Mario
Mario
M3 s/s screws and fender washers.
-Or a cross bar clamp (already patented in 1963)
-Or Belleville washers
-Or even prettier, locking washers, aka square dome/cone
Hi,
I'm trying to find the cause of what I would describe as a muffeled sound when playing music through a newbuilt Aleph J.
Is 48 volts measured between V+ and V- correct?
Bias is 400mv and dc offset 0.
Stefan
I'm trying to find the cause of what I would describe as a muffeled sound when playing music through a newbuilt Aleph J.
Is 48 volts measured between V+ and V- correct?
Bias is 400mv and dc offset 0.
Stefan
21 from 18 is good ( I bet those 18 are sagged under load , too )
however - regarding muffled sound ....... my crystal ball is muffled lately , too
so - more info and pics

however - regarding muffled sound ....... my crystal ball is muffled lately , too
so - more info and pics

Thanks.
I will revert with more pics and info.
As a temporary solution, I have used regular 16 gauge' ish power cable as rca signal cable.
Could this degrade the sound quality conciderably?
Stefan
I will revert with more pics and info.
As a temporary solution, I have used regular 16 gauge' ish power cable as rca signal cable.
Could this degrade the sound quality conciderably?
Stefan
Just checking my math skills 😉
Joke aside, as this is my first build except for a straight forward class d, I'd better check that I have my numbers and wiring correct, especially in light of the muffeled sound I experienced.
After have quadrupel-checked everyting I proceeded to re-arrange my setup, and lo and behold, the sound coming from the speakers was just beautiful.
I still have changes to do in my setup, I think it's mainly an issue related to gainstructure, but I could not get myself to stop playing music 🙂
Will continue my questions when the music runs out..
Stefan
Joke aside, as this is my first build except for a straight forward class d, I'd better check that I have my numbers and wiring correct, especially in light of the muffeled sound I experienced.
After have quadrupel-checked everyting I proceeded to re-arrange my setup, and lo and behold, the sound coming from the speakers was just beautiful.
I still have changes to do in my setup, I think it's mainly an issue related to gainstructure, but I could not get myself to stop playing music 🙂
Will continue my questions when the music runs out..
Stefan
Stefan,
Just wanted to remind you that if you are not using the balanced input, you need to short - and GND. Otherwise you will not hear the full amplifier gain.
Just wanted to remind you that if you are not using the balanced input, you need to short - and GND. Otherwise you will not hear the full amplifier gain.
Also not sure what is meant by "muffled", but the first time I turned mine on it was very "veiled" sounding ... after several hours of break-in, that soon went away and the sound opened up quite nicely.
Thanks guys, inputs very much appreciated.
grimberg, you are pointing to shorting like is to be done when measuring and adjusting bias, gnd to signal-?
craigtone, I think veiled could also have been a part of the initail impression, which has changed quite dramatically.
Stefan
grimberg, you are pointing to shorting like is to be done when measuring and adjusting bias, gnd to signal-?
craigtone, I think veiled could also have been a part of the initail impression, which has changed quite dramatically.
Stefan
Hi,
Shorting input gnd to signal- gave me more gain, but I'm not so sure if it improved the sound quality. It for sure gave me hum, quite noticable a couple of meters away from the speaker, which I did not have before.
Is this to be expected?
What is the advantages and disadvantages of choosing either of these options?
Stefan
Shorting input gnd to signal- gave me more gain, but I'm not so sure if it improved the sound quality. It for sure gave me hum, quite noticable a couple of meters away from the speaker, which I did not have before.
Is this to be expected?
What is the advantages and disadvantages of choosing either of these options?
Stefan
If you are using a single-ended input (RCA) the pin needs to be attached to "+ IN", the outer connection to GND, and "- IN" jumpered to GND.
It shouldn't hum at all, you have something mis-wired...
It shouldn't hum at all, you have something mis-wired...
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