TPA3116D2 Amp

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#5,703
danzz said:
Here its where I got mine...

pt2313+tpa3116 board

Irrebeo, Which mods have you done in yours!?... Much difference from stock!?... What do you think the mods have improved!?.

thanks
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Tried to make it a little more like pt2313 datasheet, 2.2uF MKS input, double ES bipolar 4.7 on output pt2313, removed 1uF ceramic inputcaps 3116 and shorted pads, so ~9.5uF on positve input 3116, ceramic 10uF negative to ground. Bass isn't very good. Tone controls pt2313 function a lot better and loudness too after replacing the Chemicon 680uF with a yes 680uF Chemicon from Digikey LOL, now these functions do not add incredible amount of distortion like they did earlier. All other electrolytics also replaced, Hermei looked ok till hybrid Panasonics made a big difference too, unexpected really. Lowered gain tpa3116, replaced 22uH inductors for more powerfull 10uH that are a better match for my speakers, but bass still weak. Need to check all ceramics surrounding pt2313 with pt2313 datasheet to see if there is a reason, maybe regulator is too weak??? So is on hold once again LOL, prefilter snubber not on yet, oh I did put a 0.1uF cog on for decoupling. There also sometimes is a little distortion I can't put finger on, when I think I notice it and focus it stays away for 20 minutes till you suddenly think you heard it again for 2 seconds and then again only after 20 minutes you hear it again. Could very well be powercircuit pt2313 thinking about it. Will probably replace ZA hybrids for Nichicons next time I continue🙂 Only 3116 is easier🙂 Maybe pt2313 itself is reason for everything, it does do some things extrodinary well.
 
#5,704
irribeo said:
Tried to make it a little more like pt2313 datasheet, 2.2uF MKS input, double ES bipolar 4.7 on output pt2313, removed 1uF ceramic inputcaps 3116 and shorted pads, so ~9.5uF on positve input 3116, ceramic 10uF negative to ground. Bass isn't very good. Tone controls pt2313 function a lot better and loudness too after replacing the Chemicon 680uF with a yes 680uF Chemicon from Digikey LOL, now these functions do not add incredible amount of distortion like they did earlier. All other electrolytics also replaced, Hermei looked ok till hybrid Panasonics made a big difference too, unexpected really. Lowered gain tpa3116, replaced 22uH inductors for more powerfull 10uH that are a better match for my speakers, but bass still weak. Need to check all ceramics surrounding pt2313 with pt2313 datasheet to see if there is a reason, maybe regulator is too weak??? So is on hold once again LOL, prefilter snubber not on yet, oh I did put a 0.1uF cog on for decoupling. There also sometimes is a little distortion I can't put finger on, when I think I notice it and focus it stays away for 20 minutes till you suddenly think you heard it again for 2 seconds and then again only after 20 minutes you hear it again. Could very well be powercircuit pt2313 thinking about it. Will probably replace ZA hybrids for Nichicons next time I continue🙂 Only 3116 is easier🙂 Maybe pt2313 itself is reason for everything, it does do some things extrodinary well.
Click to expand...

Amazing how authentic parts make the difference. I will be putting in 10uH inductors on my feixiang 2.1 as soon as it arrives off the docks. hybrid caps as well. Strange you have this distortion issue coming up, how are you grounding the amp. I assume you have a pre-amp as well?
 
#5,707
digisenze said:
Hi!

I have a Breeze 2.1 amp just waiting to be upgraded 🙂

Any suggestions on caps to replace the stock ones with ?

This is what the board looks like:

jiSjFsS.jpg
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Ouch, I have a TPA3116D2 module with exactly the same layout (http://www.ebay.de/itm/251677080829?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT ) and it sounds quite awful compared to the other Class-D's I know. I don't know if I'm spoiled by better amps or my speakers don't like them but I hope for you I've good one which was made on a monday after a hardweekend 😉
First of all I would upgrade all capacitors (except the Nichicon if you have a good power supply and no problems with buzzing from you DC-powersource) with ones which have greater capacity and still low inner resistance. (But I'm a noob in electronics). You don't even have to remove the old capacitor's, just add additional ones parallel.
Please let me know if you can tune it.

Your case looks nice btw. 🙂
 
#5,709
ForenSeil said:
Ouch, I have a TPA3116D2 module with exactly the same layout (Latest 2.1 digital amplifier board TPA3116D2 Red ring inductance Beyond LM1875 | eBay ) and it sounds quite awful compared to the other Class-D's I know. I don't know if I'm spoiled by better amps or my speakers don't like them but I hope for you I've good one which was made on a monday after a hardweekend 😉
First of all I would upgrade all capacitors (except the Nichicon if you have a good power supply and no problems with buzzing from you DC-powersource) with ones which have greater capacity and still low inner resistance. (But I'm a noob in electronics). You don't even have to remove the old capacitor's, just add additional ones parallel.
Please let me know if you can tune it.

Your case looks nice btw. 🙂
Click to expand...

It is not a Nichicon capacitor.
 
#5,711
egra said:
Thank you hajj!

I tried it. My laptop smps has the following optional output voltages: 15,16,18,20,22,24V. Using 22 or 24V is a bit better, but more clinical, it loses their smooth, tube like character, switch to any other voltages I couldn't hear significant difference. Someone suggested it's worth to replace the output beads with Bourns inductors.

Cheers
egra
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That adjustable laptop SMPS looks very similar to mine, I checked the output voltages when feeding a 3116 at low levels and they are a fair bit higher than the selected voltages.
 
#5,713
marcel5996 said:
Yes, I tried eliminating some of the stages to see if I could identify the offender. The noise is absent only with direct connection from (low volatage output) ipod and without a physical pot. Whenever a pot in inserted either via B1 or as passive it seems to pick up some noise. If connected straight to external DAC without volume pot (so at full volume) the noise is a loud background hiss and and a not so loud buzz. They both go away if music is played but come back if for example music is paused (but source is still connected). I guess I will keep trying moving things around. I suspect a ground issue, although I don't get how a simple passive pot can create a ground problem.
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Resolved the buzz issue by switching to a linear power supply. The noise was induced by the PC power brick I was using. The linear power supply is very quiet, just some white hiss when the source is not playing and totally silent when a signal is present.

On the same subject, I have a core laminated transformer with several secondaries, some center tapped and some with just two leads. I have a set of secondaries 16V-0-V16, so after rectification I could have DC of ~+22 - 0 - -22. I was wondering if I could use half the supply (say +22-0) for the blue board and the other half (say -22-0) to power the Pass B1 board that I use as a pre. Is there any issue with this set up?

Thanks
 
#5,714
marcel5996 said:
Resolved the buzz issue by switching to a linear power supply. The noise was induced by the PC power brick I was using. The linear power supply is very quiet, just some white hiss when the source is not playing and totally silent when a signal is present.

On the same subject, I have a core laminated transformer with several secondaries, some center tapped and some with just two leads. I have a set of secondaries 16V-0-V16, so after rectification I could have DC of ~+22 - 0 - -22. I was wondering if I could use half the supply (say +22-0) for the blue board and the other half (say -22-0) to power the Pass B1 board that I use as a pre. Is there any issue with this set up?

Thanks
Click to expand...
You could just as easily have 2 separate +22v supplies, one of each winding - they are not polarised. But the B1 needs very little amps so you are throwing away current on that winding. Better to parallel the 2 windings and just supply the amp, have a separate trafo for the B1, it only needs to be 5VA. What is the VA rating for your transformer by the way?
 
#5,715
ChrisMmm said:
You could just as easily have 2 separate +22v supplies, one of each winding - they are not polarised. But the B1 needs very little amps so you are throwing away current on that winding. Better to parallel the 2 windings and just supply the amp, have a separate trafo for the B1, it only needs to be 5VA. What is the VA rating for your transformer by the way?
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Sorry, just had a thought: is this a true centre tap? i.e. 3 wires (16-0-16) or 2 separate windings (16-0; 16-0) giving 4 wires? Toroids for example tend to be 2 separate windings which you can use as a centre tap. If its a true centre tap then you can't parallel the windings and I doubt you can use them separately as you suggest either.
 
#5,716
i have some chemicon psg 390uf and 330uf here.
i don't want to waste them because they were quite pricy (for a capacitor).

my questions:

does it make sense to change only two of the caps on the sure board?
or should i change all 6 of them?
i think i remember one comment from irrebeo, but i'm not sure.

i have one black yj driving a subwoofer (f3 something like 110hz).
right now it has two chemicon 470uf onboard and three additional 1,500uf with radial leads were everything i was able to squeeze into the enclosure.
would that board (and the bass response) benefit from the polymer-caps?
 
#5,717
Buehgemeiste said:
i have some chemicon psg 390uf and 330uf here.
i don't want to waste them because they were quite pricy (for a capacitor).

my questions:

does it make sense to change only two of the caps on the sure board?
or should i change all 6 of them?
i think i remember one comment from irrebeo, but i'm not sure.

i have one black yj driving a subwoofer (f3 something like 110hz).
right now it has two chemicon 470uf onboard and three additional 1,500uf with radial leads were everything i was able to squeeze into the enclosure.
would that board (and the bass response) benefit from the polymer-caps?
Click to expand...
I hear a difference in bass with 8800uF next to chip if I add bigger psu, so I would say polymer wouldn't change bass other than lower total esr maybe.
On Sure3116 two psg or for some two Nichicons fpnu might work better than 6 I can imagine, they seem to be able to provide more energy for treble than oscons, bass with 6000uF on Sure pcb still depends heavily on psu too.
 
#5,718
ChrisMmm said:
Sorry, just had a thought: is this a true centre tap? i.e. 3 wires (16-0-16) or 2 separate windings (16-0; 16-0) giving 4 wires? Toroids for example tend to be 2 separate windings which you can use as a centre tap. If its a true centre tap then you can't parallel the windings and I doubt you can use them separately as you suggest either.
Click to expand...

Hi, thanks for the help. It is a treu centre tap with with 3 wires 16-0-16. I agree B1 draws very little power. I don't know the VA rating of the transformer, it was taken from a dead Onkyo integra amplifier (transformer is marked AEI). It is quite heavy so I am assuming it has decent VA rating. Two sets of secondaries are centre tapped: (AC before rectification are 7.5V-0-7.5V and 16V-0-16V). I also has other two sets with two wires each (so not centre tapped) that measure 25V and 6V
 
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