Bluetooth Audiobah enclosure
I finally finished my 2.0 3116 enclosure. On my first attempt with a red YJ board I tried some capacitor hack to try and solve the speaker pop but I'm pretty convinced that it damaged the chip.
This time around I bought an audiobah. I did have success with giancarlo's pop elimination circuit though it seems audiobah gets better reviews than Red YJ. I've paired it with an aptX enabled bluetooth receiver. In my mind this is some kinda Air DAC...maybe?? It's from SURE electronics and of course it's got an issue where they didn't use the right capacitors in the factory so there's a 30 second full volume delay upon power on which could lead to an unknowing listener(wife) cranking the volume so that's on the list of things to fix.(SURE told me this problem has been fixed with all current boards being sold) That being said it uses 9v-15v so it's nice for pairing with the 3116 without having to reduce the DC voltage from the input. The light on the front of the case also blinks until the module has been paired which I like for usability(wife).
The best part about it is the case I found at goodwill. All I had to do was re-drill some stuff, dremel a bigger opening for the potentiometer and drill a hole for the power jack.
I think I remember someone saying the corner holes on the audiobah board are connected to ground so I guess my board would be grounded via the power jack as I think the sheath is ground? I'm still trying to fully comprehend grounding and ground loops, etc. I haven't had a chance to really listen to the amp but was able to turn it on for a minute and it didn't sound like there was a ground loop issue even though I was expecting one.
The case is small so it was a PITA working on. This is definitely a warm up for DUG's pcb, which I am looking forward to not burning. I would really appreciate any feedback in terms of things that don't look right. I know the wire kinda runs all over the place and I'm sure some cross which shouldn't so please let me know of anything undesirable for my next project.
The potentiometer is a AlpsRK097 that has a push button on/off feature which I obviously didn't need for this project but I could see it as a great solution to a 3116 board that doesn't come with an on/off switch.
I finally finished my 2.0 3116 enclosure. On my first attempt with a red YJ board I tried some capacitor hack to try and solve the speaker pop but I'm pretty convinced that it damaged the chip.
This time around I bought an audiobah. I did have success with giancarlo's pop elimination circuit though it seems audiobah gets better reviews than Red YJ. I've paired it with an aptX enabled bluetooth receiver. In my mind this is some kinda Air DAC...maybe?? It's from SURE electronics and of course it's got an issue where they didn't use the right capacitors in the factory so there's a 30 second full volume delay upon power on which could lead to an unknowing listener(wife) cranking the volume so that's on the list of things to fix.(SURE told me this problem has been fixed with all current boards being sold) That being said it uses 9v-15v so it's nice for pairing with the 3116 without having to reduce the DC voltage from the input. The light on the front of the case also blinks until the module has been paired which I like for usability(wife).
The best part about it is the case I found at goodwill. All I had to do was re-drill some stuff, dremel a bigger opening for the potentiometer and drill a hole for the power jack.
I think I remember someone saying the corner holes on the audiobah board are connected to ground so I guess my board would be grounded via the power jack as I think the sheath is ground? I'm still trying to fully comprehend grounding and ground loops, etc. I haven't had a chance to really listen to the amp but was able to turn it on for a minute and it didn't sound like there was a ground loop issue even though I was expecting one.
The case is small so it was a PITA working on. This is definitely a warm up for DUG's pcb, which I am looking forward to not burning. I would really appreciate any feedback in terms of things that don't look right. I know the wire kinda runs all over the place and I'm sure some cross which shouldn't so please let me know of anything undesirable for my next project.
The potentiometer is a AlpsRK097 that has a push button on/off feature which I obviously didn't need for this project but I could see it as a great solution to a 3116 board that doesn't come with an on/off switch.
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Hi,
I also bought the same board as you, there is no pops for any of my turn on or turn off, just the base is kind of thin at the moment, I changed the power supply cap to a 470uf 50V and not sure if I need to change the power cap again. I am also using 330uf x 40 35V before going into the board power inlet, I will add a choke inbetween them.
You could try lifting 1 side of R3 carefully, or if not possible remove R3. Will help bass and ... listen for yourself what else changes beside level a little.
(gain resistors are TI values, input isn't like TI evm, but gain will drop just like other boards, dB values might differ a little from datasheet)
I tried earlier to have the inputs floating with a cheapo input transformer. It picked up large amounts of hum from the unregulated psu. So I would suggest using the a centre tap->cap->ground idea.
I hope to finally get around to listening to SURE's new TPA3116 this week. I like the newest version of the little TPA3110 with filter and expect this one to be nice too. Not sure why the need for such a massive heat-sink that weighs in at 45 grams.
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They share a common ground, so all - go to the one ground. Usually you link all the - on the inside terminals and connect one wire to ground.
Thanks awty- Does it matter which ground or should I use both with some connections to the left gnd and some to the right side?
I challenge anyone to use ferrites for two weeks, then switch them out, and tell me you still like them.
Every time I've seen them used anywhere on audio gear it's like, "oh yea maybe that's good" and then whomever removes/tries something new is like, "WTF was I thinking."
Every time I've seen them used anywhere on audio gear it's like, "oh yea maybe that's good" and then whomever removes/tries something new is like, "WTF was I thinking."
The one on the left is for the mains, the one on the right is for the sub. Not sure about the surrounds and center as I cant see how they connect. You can check with a multi meter for continuity, but it probably wouldn't matter. My guess is they are all connected to the same ground.
Thanks- I tested the mains and surrounds all grounded to the left gnd and they worked fine. I think that you are right in that they probably are all one ground.
Call me a 'doubting Thomas' - but I wanted to hear for myself if the power supply really influenced the amp's performance - hence I replaced my Meanwell switched PS with a cheapo linear PS that was at hand - and behold, absolutely no contest: the linear PS makes the sound so much cleaner/clearer/more three-dimensional that going back to the Meanwell is no option - now I am just waiting for a 13,8V 10A version.....
I (actually my brother) just scored two Astron RS-20A power supplies on CL for $35. When I saw the listing (which is in another city), I didn't want to spend time researching the unit since I thought the price was too good to be true. Anyway, should these units work well for the TPA3116? Since it's 16a continuous, can I power two boards at the same time?
Thanks for the impression of linear PS. It makes me think of using a lead acid rechargable at 24 volts and switching off the mains when listening, and back on when not listening to charge. That would surely be a quiet supply.
I have a miniDSP in between so not sure if it will make a difference compared to someone listing to an all analog source.
so, do we have a link for a "cheapo" linear power supply? No astrons on my local C/L and I want to try this next...
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/group-buys/254981-linear-regulator-pcb-lm317-lt1085-lm338-lt1083.html
This is a PCB I am using for my TPA3106D1.
BR,
Ales
internal wirinig recommendations
Got my 3116 board, ybdz. waiting for a potentiometer , astron ps, input interconnect cable with rca's. I've read a lot about different internal cablings. Please advise. As I've heard these boards could sound a tad "lively" or "bright", would like recommendations on internal wire. Silver scares me a bit, don't want the amp to sound bright or thin with lack of warmth or bloom, or with an analytical sound.
Also, i've read solid core is smoother and cohesive vs stranded cable. Read here about the Belden 88641 Plenum Cable. Othger places about VH Audio UniCrystal AirLok Hookup Wire Cable, Shielded Silver Teflon Wire Coax, Nerve Audio hook-up wire, etc..
What gauge to use from board to potentiometer to rca's?
Which cable to use from amp outs to speaker biding posts?
Thanks in advance if you could recommend..
Thanks all for all your great posts on your builds, very informative and interesting!🙂
Got my 3116 board, ybdz. waiting for a potentiometer , astron ps, input interconnect cable with rca's. I've read a lot about different internal cablings. Please advise. As I've heard these boards could sound a tad "lively" or "bright", would like recommendations on internal wire. Silver scares me a bit, don't want the amp to sound bright or thin with lack of warmth or bloom, or with an analytical sound.
Also, i've read solid core is smoother and cohesive vs stranded cable. Read here about the Belden 88641 Plenum Cable. Othger places about VH Audio UniCrystal AirLok Hookup Wire Cable, Shielded Silver Teflon Wire Coax, Nerve Audio hook-up wire, etc..
What gauge to use from board to potentiometer to rca's?
Which cable to use from amp outs to speaker biding posts?
Thanks in advance if you could recommend..
Thanks all for all your great posts on your builds, very informative and interesting!🙂
