Fs=37 Hz
Re=5.8 Ohms
Le=1.08 mH
Qms=5.68
Qes=0.745
Qts=0.659
Mms=33.02 g
Cms=0.56 mm/N
Vas=34.26 l
B*l=7.73
Tm=N/A
Rms=1.35 kg/s
thats from GS401 Speaker | galeaudio.com
i just think that we can do better.
Those specs are practically the same as the cheap Jaycar poly woofers [ old models ] and almost anything would be better for long term SQ and reliability
cool. i have a simple rule, use the woofers for bass about 50% of the xmax @40hz and above to keep distortion low.
ill take pro woofers over hifi woofers any day, because of the lower mms, high qms and low qes, but all of this leads to vented design rather than sealed.
i have never heard the Gale myself, but many praised them and it seems well received better than current middle priced speakers.
System7 gave some links and figures in post #58.
You might check the above against those for any variation.
Although it may also be possible to buy Gale (or replica Gale) end caps, using them would require any extra cabinet volume to be achieved by an increase in just the long dimension. Thus, getting a 25% increase in volume would mean stretching the cabinet from 605mm to 756mm. That would be wildly out of proportion. Forget it.
Cadging extra volume by using 12mm ply instead of 18 is (IMHO) a bad idea, as the stiffness will be lost.
cheers
Doug
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this site lists substitute drivers:
Wilmslow Audio Repair and Upgrade Service
Monacor SPH-210:
http://www.monacor.co.uk/products/speakerbuilding-hifi6-9/vnr/100890/
hmmm, Qts of .24, is it really a good replacement???
Wilmslow Audio Repair and Upgrade Service
Monacor SPH-210:
http://www.monacor.co.uk/products/speakerbuilding-hifi6-9/vnr/100890/
hmmm, Qts of .24, is it really a good replacement???
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12mm of euro birch is more stiff than 18mm MDF. properly braced and add some 3mm bitumen pads, your box will perform far better than std MDF.
at the end of the day, for me building speakers about making decisions and compromising the least priority.
I also only have an interest in a passive crossover. There is a problem in that you can do all sorts of things with an active crossovers that you cannot do with a passive crossover. This means, for example, some combinations of drivers and some baffle arrangements are fine for active crossovers but are a problem for passive crossovers.
Opting to design for a passive crossover will mean that both active and passive will work. But there may be better active only configurations with, for example, an awkward combination of sensitivities.
The internal volume for 2 8" drivers on the first page was given as 37-42.5 litres based on the size of the Gale. I took this as 40 litres when looking at suitable drivers but 37 litres isn't greatly different. There are standard range drivers around that work in this volume but most recommendations seem to be for woofers that want twice as much if not a lot more in one or two cases. If you give such drivers 80 litres of volume then you will get "tight" bass and a lower F3 unless you take more sensitivity. But the cabinet is twice as big, no longer much of a homage to the Gale and big enough to be stood on the floor. If you put such drivers in 40 litres the "tight" bass is lessened and you start to lose one of the main benefits of using a sealed box.
Personally I have an interest in a 37-40 litre cabinet but no interest in a 60-80 litre cabinet with the Gale configuration of drivers. I have an interest in 8" drivers with a Q around 0.7 and an F3 in the 50s but no interest in a Q of 1 or more. I have interest in standard range drivers: £20 tweeter, £40 mid and £60 woofer which I guess is a Phase II design. I am interested in a configuration that can work well with a passive crossover even though this is not one of the original objectives.
Personally I have an interest in a 37-40 litre cabinet but no interest in a 60-80 litre cabinet with the Gale configuration of drivers. I have an interest in 8" drivers with a Q around 0.7 and an F3 in the 50s but no interest in a Q of 1 or more. I have interest in standard range drivers: £20 tweeter, £40 mid and £60 woofer which I guess is a Phase II design. I am interested in a configuration that can work well with a passive crossover even though this is not one of the original objectives.
The Monacor gives an F3 of 87Hz in 20L sealed which is too high and there is not enough data to sim the other one they suggest.
So true, but if we use any FaitalPro 3FE or 4FE instead, I have only played with the 3FE25 but liked it. The 3FE25 is 91 dB 1W/1m and available in 4 and 8 ohm.
But maybe the best would to be to find a pair of old Peerless KO40, Peerless M122 or Peerless MF114 to use as midrange. Then choose a tweeter that "sounds" right, mylar, soft/hard dome or ?
A quick comparison of Peerless KO40 vs. 3FE25 and TC9FD-18-08, but then as the only frequency response I have for the KO40 is the picture attached to this post and I assumed that the SPL scale started at 60 dB and ended at 110 dB (would give the KO40 a spl around 92 dB 1W/1m), but what if it didn't, so I made a new comparison where 60 dB is where the frequency starts at ~ 50 Hz, but what do I know.
\M
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For the bass drivers you could use the W8S-52 from WES (wagner electronics services) it has some similar specs to the Gale drivers, you probably just need to add some extra mass and maybe change the rubber surrounds to foam surrounds (this is a DIY forum) if that doesn't get you close enough then maybe get a voice coil that will enable you to get the specs you need to do the job you want (lots of math and web searching, but you can do it)
re:"W8S-52 from WES" - that sims the closest to the Gales so far.... doesn't quite have the hump which probably gives the Gales their low end character around 70-80Hz though
The Faital 4FE32 and 4FE35 look good and cost only £18 and £13 respectively.
I think the OP objected to old, out-of-production drivers since the idea was a modern interpretation rather than an outright clone.
"re:"W8S-52 from WES" - that sims the closest to the Gales so far.... doesn't quite have the hump which probably gives the Gales their low end character around 70-80Hz though".. Just add a bit of extra mass to the bass drivers, use a SB acoustics mid and use almost any dome tweeter to get you pass the 5k mark...
Hi Andy
Yes. I agree that we need to restrict the volume to something in the same order as the original Gales. Assuming we maintain the aspect ratio L:W😀, then (although I initially suggested +15%) we could perhaps stretch to +25%. Beyond that point, I too lose interest.
Doug
PS I don't know how to stop the upper case d morphing into a smiley face. :-(
I just think that the idea of a shared design shouldn't set out to use hard to obtain or old or used drivers. Use them if you will, but as a personal experiment.
Doug
I really like the idea of interpretations of classic speakers using more modern and available drivers.
When I stumbled across those oval Tangband woofers I was seriously tempted to build a new version of the big IMF speakers but it never got past the planning stage.
May be something for the future...
When I stumbled across those oval Tangband woofers I was seriously tempted to build a new version of the big IMF speakers but it never got past the planning stage.
May be something for the future...