I guess it was Virpz. Apparently, he likes it.
I wonder if back then nobody wondered "there is mili and micro, this could cause some confusion". I blame the imperial system!
No problem in having preferred orders of magnitude. It's part of the same system and anyone can interpret easily. No guessing involved.
I have tried the linear PSU against the SMPS. I didn't listen for a long time, but it sounded like an improvement. Smoothed things over, specially the treble. Kept the energy, reduced aggressiveness, the famous "treble glare". Small improvements in staging and imaging as well.
I was wondering if it would be worth to setup a measurement system and measure the system playing with both power supplies.
When I took Radio Shop in the 50s we only had Micro Micro Farad. It took me some time to get used to Pico Farad, but that is certainly better nomenclature.
It would be fascinating to get the results of your measurement system testing of both types of supplies. I assume you mean a microphone measuring system like REW. If so be sure to have the Mic in the exact same location for both tests.
Cheers,
Rod
Thanks. I was inspired by many of your creations. Thanks for sharing through your blog.
Thanks for sharing. Which linear power supply did you use? I was thinking about getting an Astron RS-12A regulated linear supply from one of the local CB and marine radio supply shops. They often have great open box deals on the Astron power supplies.
Yes, using a DIY mic with Pana WM-61A capsule using gainphile's simple circuit. But I don't have any offboard soundcard right now.
Keeping everything in the same position is not and issue.
Actually it's was scrapped from an old AIWA boombox, quite simple, does not look like anything special.
What I am wondering is whether this is worth doing. I think it's much more of a job to an oscilloscope instead of RTA.
Rhing,
This is the wire I used - not sure if plenum grade but pretty cost effective at $0.43/ft. It is actually only 0.10 in dia.
Flexible RG174 Coax Cable 0.100 Diameter With Single Shielded PVC Jacket
This is the wire I used - not sure if plenum grade but pretty cost effective at $0.43/ft. It is actually only 0.10 in dia.
Flexible RG174 Coax Cable 0.100 Diameter With Single Shielded PVC Jacket
Testing with a scope will certainly give you very different information. Both would be interesting of course, if possible to do.
Cheers,
Rod
This morning I received the new Yuanjing 2.0 board (blue pcb, on/off relays, through-hole parts) straight from Yuanjing. I ordered it on January 30 and received it on February 10, which is not bad considering the New Year holiday.
The amp came in a padded envelope, with one piece of added thin foam for packing. Let's just say that I was relieved that everything was in fine working order. I wish they plopped them into a box when shipping, but it did make it to me safely.
By the way, the board did come with a Molex-style connector.
It is too cold here to do any soldering in the garage (or house, given that I am partial to breathing good air), so I plugged in a set of RCA jacks I have mounted on wires connected to a Molex connector and ran it through my Adcom GTP-400 preamp. When it warms up later in the week I will try out the Valab steeped attenuator and Alpha potentiometer. It will be very easy to swap parts if anyone so desires.
So far, so good. The relays take care of the pops. Bass is deep and clear. The amp has clean highs. It is early to tell, but my gut feeling is that this is a bit more smooth and transparent than the red Yuanjing 2.0 board. If I put my ear right up to the tweeter and listen hard I can hear some hiss, but it is not at all pronounced and is no worse than the red board.
The heatsink runs ever so slightly warmer than on the red Yuanjing board, which is to say that it is, at most, slightly warm.
If you have the ability to wire a volume pot, this looks like it would be a tough amp to beat. Not having the pop is a real plus and would make me much more likely to build the board into an amp for friends, something I have not done with the red board.
I look forward to hearing other people's opinions as their boards arrive.
The amp came in a padded envelope, with one piece of added thin foam for packing. Let's just say that I was relieved that everything was in fine working order. I wish they plopped them into a box when shipping, but it did make it to me safely.
By the way, the board did come with a Molex-style connector.
It is too cold here to do any soldering in the garage (or house, given that I am partial to breathing good air), so I plugged in a set of RCA jacks I have mounted on wires connected to a Molex connector and ran it through my Adcom GTP-400 preamp. When it warms up later in the week I will try out the Valab steeped attenuator and Alpha potentiometer. It will be very easy to swap parts if anyone so desires.
So far, so good. The relays take care of the pops. Bass is deep and clear. The amp has clean highs. It is early to tell, but my gut feeling is that this is a bit more smooth and transparent than the red Yuanjing 2.0 board. If I put my ear right up to the tweeter and listen hard I can hear some hiss, but it is not at all pronounced and is no worse than the red board.
The heatsink runs ever so slightly warmer than on the red Yuanjing board, which is to say that it is, at most, slightly warm.
If you have the ability to wire a volume pot, this looks like it would be a tough amp to beat. Not having the pop is a real plus and would make me much more likely to build the board into an amp for friends, something I have not done with the red board.
I look forward to hearing other people's opinions as their boards arrive.
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Hammet,
Which blue board by YJ are referring to? The one on the picture does not appear to have a relay.
Which blue board by YJ are referring to? The one on the picture does not appear to have a relay.
Indeed I am. That is the correct board.
In any case, the board is quiet on power up and down.
In any case, the board is quiet on power up and down.
I got the same message too. Mine shipped out yesterday with the signal cable included. -redjr
A couple questions.
1) Which is the best deal if I want the 3116 two-channel option with tone controls? There are bunches of them on AliExpress. But none appear to have the tone controls (bass+treble).
2) The $8 "registered" (or free depending on deals) mail options to USA, how long is that taking on average? I need the item within about ten days.
EDIT: I think I found just what I want. 2.0 + Audio Controls (bass+treble) for $19 shipped:
http://www.thanksbuyer.com/yj-tpa31...leted-board-w-audio-adjustment-function-26518
EDIT #2: I guess it doesn't matter, I just placed the order. Now to see about digging up a laptop power supply from around the house as I think that's all that's needed to get this amp up & running. Well that and some knobs for the potentiometers.
And to research the thread for any cool mods to do.
1) Which is the best deal if I want the 3116 two-channel option with tone controls? There are bunches of them on AliExpress. But none appear to have the tone controls (bass+treble).
2) The $8 "registered" (or free depending on deals) mail options to USA, how long is that taking on average? I need the item within about ten days.
EDIT: I think I found just what I want. 2.0 + Audio Controls (bass+treble) for $19 shipped:
http://www.thanksbuyer.com/yj-tpa31...leted-board-w-audio-adjustment-function-26518
EDIT #2: I guess it doesn't matter, I just placed the order. Now to see about digging up a laptop power supply from around the house as I think that's all that's needed to get this amp up & running. Well that and some knobs for the potentiometers.
And to research the thread for any cool mods to do.
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Edit #3: I found a 19v 1.65A netbook charger that my dog ate awhile back. The necessary parts are still intact. 🙂
I'm googling around now but haven't yet found out the minimum requirements for amperage and I'm guessing 1.65A isn't enough to get this amplifier putting out max voltage.
I'm googling around now but haven't yet found out the minimum requirements for amperage and I'm guessing 1.65A isn't enough to get this amplifier putting out max voltage.
Thanks for sharing your recent experience. What is an optimal volume pot to use with this amp: a 50kohm or 100kohm audio taper volume pot? I have both.
About pop noise, I have the 2.0 by ChenZhi and it has no pop, wich by the way I believe that the manufacturer its Feixang as its uses the same components... I havent tried the 2.0 red board from YJ but I have one of the 2.1 from YJ, and IMO the blue 2.0 board from chenzhi its more clear compared to the 2.1 YJ board using it as a 2.0 with 4ohms resistor in the sub out.