I have one of these on order, I'm sure a little knob twiddling will effect the sound more than a few replacement parts.
Absolutely. Not for the better though. Ever seen the phase plot of that type of tone controls?
@Qbert25,
1) Possible hum/ripple/noise coupling from the PS into the input.
Sure, now that I think about it some more, I should move the power to the other end, as you suggest. It will be a better layout of power, o/p's in the back and input, volume control centered in the front.
Anything else? Design/features?
Thx
Rick
The goal is to make it as universal as possible.Is your board for testing purpose only?
Okay your point is?Otherwise, I don't consider a good idea placing the power connector at the same side of (and so close to!) the volume pot
1) Possible hum/ripple/noise coupling from the PS into the input.
Sure, now that I think about it some more, I should move the power to the other end, as you suggest. It will be a better layout of power, o/p's in the back and input, volume control centered in the front.
Anything else? Design/features?
Thx
Rick
Im using a linear power supply. I just dont quite understand the relationships here which could just be chalked up to my non electrical background. I guess my misunderstanding is should I try 10 100uf caps or 10 1000uf caps...or are 10 100uf caps any different than a single 1000uf cap and so forth. Maybe im just getting bogged down but since you mentioned a noticable diference in sound with your multi cap setup I figured that sounded promising especially since there seem to be mixed opinions about the real audible sonic improvements to be gained by changing components. I cant recall that many posts where someone discussed changing a component and noticing a difference.
I think other's have covered this but...
With these amplifiers I think a total of around 10kuf is a pretty good amount, for any PSU.
Everytime you double the amount of capacitors you are using, you drop the ESR in half. They become better in function. You could use 100uf caps, but it'd be better to use 100 of them. It'd be a real pain in the butt for probably not enough benefit. Also small capacitors discharge faster, or they are a little more responsive is how to think about it. You can get very large capacitors that perform like smaller Panasonic FC caps, for a VERY large price.
As far as capacitor amount, the FC series in the 1000uf range seems to do very well in most amplifier, not being too large, slow, or high ESR to affect most functions of amplifiers. You'll see them in some spendy units known for transparency, immediacy, etc. They're pretty darn good, and often used in that range of uf.
But expermint, maybe you'll find a little enhancement at lower uf ratings.
As other's have said, the little decoupling filter caps in the "zone" don't have much purpose to be larger than the Ti factory specs. But of course using high quality ones would be good. If they are, it's just to make up for the no vcc caps on most the boards.
Ahem..."10kuf" ? You probably mean 10,000 µF (10.000 µF for Europeans) ?
If it makes you feel better...
Could be 0.01F or 10mF too. Don't think it makes a difference as long as everyone knows what is meant.
We do have standards for a reason. I think I'll have a kilomilliliter beer now. What is "kuf" anyway ?
It is so simple to do it right so why do it wrong and start confusion ?
It is so simple to do it right so why do it wrong and start confusion ?
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When you order capacitors in these rangers they are always rated in uF. We also discuss them in uF. It makes more sense to stick to uF reference no matter how much or how little, so long as the sum is being comprised entirely of items that will be rated in uF.
Maybe it's time this topic dies until we learn something new that'll make these amplifiers worthy of the big leagues.
Maybe it's time this topic dies until we learn something new that'll make these amplifiers worthy of the big leagues.
I would never order a 10 kuf cap as no one would understand over here, not even Farnell 😉 You are dead right on the use of µF being standard so a 10,000 µF it is.
Ordered the blue YJ board a few days ago. I am curious if it is better than the red board.
Ordered the blue YJ board a few days ago. I am curious if it is better than the red board.
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I have one of these on order, I'm sure a little knob twiddling will effect the sound more than a few replacement parts.
Free Shipping LM1036 tone board / preamp board (Volume, treble, bass) We are the manufacturer-in Consumer Electronics on Aliexpress.com
Wow, this board looks interesting!! Although I am not a big fan of tone control, at times, it comes in handy. Holy cow, with so many components assembled on the board and shipping included - only 9.50$ 😱 It's unbelievable!
Let's us know how it sounds.
Regards,
I would never order a 10 kuf cap as no one would understand over here, not even Farnell....
It's not that uncommon to find parts listed as 10KuF here in the states.
Search for it at Mouser.com and you'll find many references.
Madisound's listings as "mfd" are bad enough...
Old radio schematics had mf and mmf (micromicro farad) for uF and pF.
I don't even like nF.
F, uF, and pF are standards to me.
Just sayin'.
🙂
It's not that uncommon to find parts listed as 10KuF here in the states.
Search for it at Mouser.com and you'll find many references.
Only there. You know which country does not adhere to world standards.
Old radio schematics had mf and mmf (micromicro farad) for uF and pF.
I don't even like nF.
F, uF, and pF are standards to me.
Just sayin'.
🙂
What's there not to like on nF ? 😉 The point with standards are that they are not standard to just someone but to many people. Here they are the SI prefixes that were agreed upon long ago, please note the use of capitals with some prefixes. Like kHz and MHz...
http://www.chemteam.info/Metric/Metric-Prefixes.html
Let's go back on topic.
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Okay my design is ready for fab. 🙂
I can see this project costing me around $200+ to get 2 boards assembled. I'll be loading the BOM into Mouser later and can give you, the one of comp costs.
When you put a fair bit of time/effort into something, you want to avoid this if you can. Sounds like music downloading to me.
I guess the only way is to not release the gerber/fab data, like what ESP does.
Thats a great total New design, I really understand why you dont post more information, your design even thats based in EVM board from TI, its a New design with many time used only to draw the achematic, and then the pcblayout with some many features Im sure its Not easy to do, at least for me. In may case its totally diferent, I took TI datasheet schematic and made the pcb layout, wich its some kind of copy and paste... But for me this is some kind of therapy, as I use my free time to relax, so my idea was to give out my design to the forum, as a way to say thank you to Forum. all the peolple that Helped me and also from who I learned reading from them.
By the way, where do you order your pchs?, I used a couple of times itead estudio and their boards are great for the price.
I would never order a 10 kuf cap as no one would understand over here, not even Farnell 😉 You are dead right on the use of µF being standard so a 10,000 µF it is.
Ordered the blue YJ board a few days ago. I am curious if it is better than the red board.
That board its great, I did one identical!!!...😀..
When you get it please if you can post a pic of the bottom!?
I will. Because of the chinese new year shipping was delayed till february 8th but now I got a message it had been shipped a week ago....
Please include link to board referenced
There are so many boards that I don't know which ones you guys are talking about anymore. Searching back through the thread is often not fruitful because there may be more than one "blue" board or "green" board.
I have a suggestion: in future posts when you refer to a board (unless it is very easy to find like the original al YJ "2.0 red board"), can folks please include link to board referenced? That would be very helpful. I follow this thread daily and I still get confused.
Thanks,
X
There are so many boards that I don't know which ones you guys are talking about anymore. Searching back through the thread is often not fruitful because there may be more than one "blue" board or "green" board.
I have a suggestion: in future posts when you refer to a board (unless it is very easy to find like the original al YJ "2.0 red board"), can folks please include link to board referenced? That would be very helpful. I follow this thread daily and I still get confused.
Thanks,
X
I should move the power to the other end, as you suggest. It will be a better layout of power, o/p's in the back and input, volume control centered in the front.
Anything else? Design/features?
Thx
Rick
Great!

No other points (At most, an on/off led, at the front side, close to volume pot 😉). I like jumper flexibility!
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