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new 3" fullrage to provide test

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@5th Element, Impressive knowledge, where did you learn all this?

My plan is to combine my two drivers with a Tang Band W5-876SD 5" Sub into a 'Boombox'
This is to have Apple Airport express - MiniDigi- MiniDSP - MiniAmp with 2x10w and 1x20w.
Airplay for Spotify and Radio.

Can anyone think of a good cabinet design, to be CNC'd out of ply or mdf.

Thinking symmetrical, in separate boxes, ideally get some curves in their. A real basic box below.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
 
@5th Element, Impressive knowledge, where did you learn all this?

More than anything, years of practical experience and then the good folk of the internet.

My plan is to combine my two drivers with a Tang Band W5-876SD 5" Sub into a 'Boombox'
This is to have Apple Airport express - MiniDigi- MiniDSP - MiniAmp with 2x10w and 1x20w.
Airplay for Spotify and Radio.

That sounds similar to what I've got planned on the electronics side of things. Mine is going to have a bluetooth receiver, coupled to a PCM5142 DAC from TI that has a built in DSP for speaker EQ, then a TPA3118 stereo class D amp. I've got all the hardware working now all I need to do is sort out the code to program the PCM5142.

Can anyone think of a good cabinet design, to be CNC'd out of ply or mdf.

Thinking symmetrical, in separate boxes, ideally get some curves in their. A real basic box below.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

The main thing I'd pay attention to is the separation of the main stereo pair. You mentioned separate boxes, but would these be all glued together or moveable? The only reason I mention this is because having the stereo pair so close together will severely limit the distance you could sit and properly experience stereo reproduction. Maybe you could have the design so that the three will sit next to each other when not in critical use, but if you want better sound quality you could unhook the main pair from the centre and place them further apart.

From a cabinet design point of view, I'd go with whatever shape is visually pleasing, but making sure to have decent round overs on the front baffle to keep edge diffraction to a minimum. You could incorporate the curves you want like this perhaps.

It would be nice if my pair of drivers would arrive, or at least if KrellZou would actually communicate with me after having said my pair were stolen >.<
 
Thanks for the input. I do want to extract as much sonic quality as possible, but this is to sit on top of the fridge and play Radio 4 and stream some songs from my phone while i'm cooking so ultra dead flat response isn't all that necessary.

The plan was to have the cabinet as one, just divided up. Idea was developed a little on a previous thread when when I had a spare Mark Audio Alpair 10.3

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/239561-what-do-one-spare-alpair-10-3-a-2.html
 
I did some calculations and i came to following measurements of the box and parameters:

Vb = 2.5 lts = L x W x H
f3 = 71.86 Hz
fb = 82.14 Hz
Dv = 1 in = 2.5 cm
Lv = 2.83 in = 6.93 cm

IZG2cWm.png


Anybody see anything weird or suspicious before i start cutting and drilling? 🙂
 
So I got a pair of these a couple of weeks ago and got their cabinets finished. These are a very small pair of cabinets 15x12x12cm out of 10mm thick material. The material is dense mind you, it's made from sheets of polyester resin impregnated with marble dust. One cabinet + driver weighs almost 2.5kg.

First measurement is a nearfield one, done mainly to show the low end extension (or lack there of). The tiny cabinet explains the high Q alignment, these are sealed.

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Next up is a gated far field measurement done at around 30cm.

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They don't posses 20k extension which is evident from listening and they obviously beam far more than a dome tweeter. A massive resonance issue occurs around 1.5kHz too. This needs two notches to get rid of properly.

Next is harmonic distortion at comfortable listening level.

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The first thing to note is that the aforementioned resonance shows up very clearly in the HD plot. Thankfully this only appears in the HD2 which is likely to make it pretty innocuous. Otherwise the HD plot is very clean except it would be nice for the HD2 to be lower overall, especially at low frequencies.

Next is the distortion run at a smidgen below 2.83vRMS.

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Pretty much the same as above. Low levels of HD3, 4 and 5 but with high levels of HD2 and that resonance peak.

Quite where the resonance comes from I do not know. In a driver so small there is no reason for it to have any resonances up until breakup proper occurs. Still it only mars the HD2 which isn't as bad as it could be. The high levels of HD2 clearly point towards the motor and suspension being unbalanced, ie the outward motion isn't the same as the rearward. From a visual inspection this doesn't appear to be due to coil offset, but without a Klippel test I am just guessing.

Moving on, the driver is clearly built very well. A nice cast frame that is well ventilated. The spider isn't ventilated in a typical sense but it does have some holes perforated in it to allow it to breathe. As observed earlier on in the thread the top plate is very thick and the motor is indeed underhung.

Make from that what you will. Competition from the TC9, FR88EX and from a midrange perspective, the Scanspeak 10F are strong. The circular frame of the AIR320 is a big bonus though as it makes it a lot easier to use than the Vifa. Then there's also the FU10RB from SEAS.
 

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Hi bear, in the bottom right corner there is a key. The different lines represent the different harmonics. I wont decribe the colours as I am colour blind and will probably get it wrong, but the top line is the 2nd harmonic, the line below this, the 3rd, then the two below this are the 4th and 5th. The darker of the two being the 5th.
 
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