As for liquid cooling of the speakers, I was thinking about just immersing them in seawater. There is plenty nearby, and the possibility of the speaker changing the temperature of that 'heatsink' is fairly remote...
And perhaps you could play some Hendrix for the propellerheads running the SOSUS nets...
And perhaps you could play some Hendrix for the propellerheads running the SOSUS nets...
after all thats been said in the last few posts thats NOT what stands out as crazy!
🙂
You got me thinking about liquid cooling my F5T now.. How about lead-bismuth like an old Soviet-era submarine reactor 🙂
And here I thought that everyone wanted Class A without all the exotic cooling because they used it to heat their houses in the winter. Heck, I would just add a slow and low fan just for circulation and keep the chassis BIG.
Sneak Peek - If my little BA-3 experiment works out as hoped, you can just pipe it into your central air ducts and heat the whole d*mn house - or get some very long speaker cables and move it around to the coldest spot in your castle !!! 😀😀😀
As expected, please ignore what I said at post #2220 (Cal's Rule: "Never post an end date to a project"). Probably have another full week before I'm making any "cool music".
As expected, please ignore what I said at post #2220 (Cal's Rule: "Never post an end date to a project"). Probably have another full week before I'm making any "cool music".
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...
Goggles.. Check.
Extinguisher.. Check.
Homeowner's Insurance.. Check.
The last Class A I built was a big hit with two members of the family... me and in the winter, my cat.
Goggles.. Check.
Extinguisher.. Check.
Homeowner's Insurance.. Check.
The last Class A I built was a big hit with two members of the family... me and in the winter, my cat.
Just need some very long feeder hose for the heat exchanger and short speaker cable . look good.
Bob, at some point in time, you might want to add some "water wetter" to your coolant water. It tends to improve the cooling capacity of the water (I think it promotes better metal to water boundary transfer). I use it on my race cars--and if it gives me a 15 degree C temp reduction on my McLaren (1,000 HP from 355 cu in), then it ought to be able to help cool your amp, too. I used the additive made by Red Line.
Thanks Ken. I will definitely try that. Hate to make predictions, but the BA-3 should reach the proving grounds this weekend. Not sure if I have made a McLaren or an Edsel, but we will find out soon.
😀
😀
The red line product works well for me . Do not need the whole bottle in you app. use the rest in your car . Summit ,Jeg's ,etc stock it.
That gets more amazing each time I see it. Love the home made PS PCB!!
++ on the Red Line "water wetter".
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I think he is more interested in liquid cooling for the sake of doing it rather than any intrinsic advantage.
Won't have a definitive answer till the final build is completed. If I can improve the heat transfer efficiency at the fets, the radiator/fan module could be smaller. Compare: Radiator @ $27, fans @ $9 ea. pump @ $33 = around $75 w/fittings - to the cost of a quality chassis with sufficient heatsinking for 24 devices. The shell will be made from a sheet of aluminum costing ~ $40.
6L6 is correct. It's the last leg of a curiosity based adventure that hopefully might spur some practical developments/alternative in the liquid cooling concept. Received PM from others who have started similar projects. We will see what the future brings.
Edit: Thanks Bill. The CL-60 part was made with the leftovers from the PS construction. I will get the WW soon and report back.
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Another potential advantage: If your listening room is next to the garage or other convenient place you don't mind heating you can pipe the heat and fan noise out of the room and run the FETs even harder.