You won't save any money doing it yourself that's for sure - but there is something very cool about firing up an amp you built yourself and hearing the first music come through it as it comes to life. Same with DIY speaker enclosures, although there - you can definitely save money and get a superior sounding speaker for a fraction of the cost of a high end speaker that you would buy. I learned a lot about SMD soldering, using tweezers and magnifiers, and class D theory by building this. It was also cool to have one of the few first amps on the block before they became commodity items like this one from China.
You won't save any money doing it yourself that's for sure - but there is something very cool about firing up an amp you built yourself and hearing the first music come through it as it comes to life. Same with DIY speaker enclosures, although there - you can definitely save money and get a superior sounding speaker for a fraction of the cost of a high end speaker that you would buy. I learned a lot about SMD soldering, using tweezers and magnifiers, and class D theory by building this. It was also cool to have one of the few first amps on the block before they became commodity items like this one from China.
Before I found out about the built up board from China (courtesy of xrk971), I had already requested an eval chip from Texas Instruments, which they kindly Fedex'd to New Zealand.
It arrived yesterday. So I suppose I'll go ahead and build one anyway, knowing full well it will cost me way more than one of the chinese boards.
But by golly, those chips are so tiny... Will have to "invest" in magnifying googles, new soldering iron, 0.4 mm solder etc..
Tiny they are and I still marvel at what they can do in such a tiny package. There is a TAS5630 that is 3x as big (14 mm square) and it makes 300 watts per channel.
Tiny they are and I still marvel at what they can do in such a tiny package. There is a TAS5630 that is 3x as big (14 mm square) and it makes 300 watts per channel.
I have made a board for my next amp...TDA8954...420W @ 10% 8R
My rating 320W 0.5% 8R +/- 40V
Peter...I almost can't get a bare board to you for that price...I probably won't be marketing a board for the 3116.
I am concerned about what xrk971 pointed out in that it has what looks like 22uH inductors in a small package...probably not rated for 3A for 8R and very probably not rated for the 4R load that would get close to 50W.
I really hope this board does not give the TPA3116 a bad name.
We sill see.
I get a great deal of pleasure at being able to purchase these little amps without requiring "feedback" because they are so inexpensive.You won't save any money doing it yourself that's for sure - but there is something very cool about firing up an amp you built yourself and hearing the first music come through it as it comes to life. Same with DIY speaker enclosures, although there - you can definitely save money and get a superior sounding speaker for a fraction of the cost of a high end speaker that you would buy. I learned a lot about SMD soldering, using tweezers and magnifiers, and class D theory by building this. It was also cool to have one of the few first amps on the block before they became commodity items like this one from China.
After spending my working life using microscopes and comparators, I'm sure I would get no satisfaction chasing miniature components floating on a sea of solder.
I can quite understand building speaker boxes and Xovers but these little amps look to have all the magic in the chip with just a few periferal components all of which would presents problems to solder, for me at least.
Peter...I almost can't get a bare board to you for that price...I probably won't be marketing a board for the 3116.
I am concerned about what xrk971 pointed out in that it has what looks like 22uH inductors in a small package...probably not rated for 3A for 8R and very probably not rated for the 4R load that would get close to 50W.
I really hope this board does not give the TPA3116 a bad name.
We sill see.
Yep, I understand about getting the bare board to me, Doug. I'm thinking about using a breakout out for the chip and cobble a thru hole board together myself.
About the inductors, you well be right. I may end up replacing them with a higher spec'd one.
...
About the inductors, you well be right. I may end up replacing them with a higher spec'd one.
Take a look at IHLP2525CZER100M01 if you decide to pursue that route.
These are the ones I use.
Check all of the values against the data sheet.
🙂
The Chinese made Board does say max current is 2amps and they assume 24v supply to get 48 watts? What is the problem with 22 uH inductors ? Not enough HF response?
Jeepers, this certainly took off after I posted those links. 😀
I will order the el-cheapo one, too... I'd be curious to see the details of what the 2.1 does. X-over? Level?
I will order the el-cheapo one, too... I'd be curious to see the details of what the 2.1 does. X-over? Level?
"The Chinese made Board does say max current is 2amps and they assume 24v supply to get 48 watts? What is the problem with 22 uH inductors ? Not enough HF response? "
The higher the inductance given a specific core size results in a lower current rating before the inductance decreased by a specified amount.
http://productfinder.pulseeng.com/products/datasheets/SPM2006_22.pdf
Note the trend of inductance vs current rating.
If those inductors on the boards are 0.48" square then they could be good for 3A...There are some that size at that rating.
The higher the inductance given a specific core size results in a lower current rating before the inductance decreased by a specified amount.
http://productfinder.pulseeng.com/products/datasheets/SPM2006_22.pdf
Note the trend of inductance vs current rating.
If those inductors on the boards are 0.48" square then they could be good for 3A...There are some that size at that rating.
Jeepers, this certainly took off after I posted those links. 😀
I will order the el-cheapo one, too... I'd be curious to see the details of what the 2.1 does. X-over? Level?
http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tpa3116d2.pdf
Figure 27 on page 14
With an extra IC...details might be in the instructions.
It looks like a quad op amp which means they can do a left + right summing op amp followed by adjustable low pass filter for sub and fourth amp is gain on sub. I am guessing the stereo pair goes through full bandwidth and doesn't utilize op amp at all. The TI sheet doesn't talk about any op amp application.
Where would one get the mate to that 3-pin input connector? I cased up a HiFiMeDIY TK2050 amp a couple years ago and butchered that connector to solder the input cables... 😀 I'd rather not do that again.
Where would one get the mate to that 3-pin input connector? I cased up a HiFiMeDIY TK2050 amp a couple years ago and butchered that connector to solder the input cables... 😀 I'd rather not do that again.
Go direct to the bottom of the board
That's what I did for at least one of the wires, if I recall... 😀 Good point, though. I'm just lazy.
You can also buy that connector with leads from any PC supply store (<$1 ea) as that is what they use for inputs to old style sound cards. Or pull from an old PC motherboard somewhere.
About the quad op amp, it seems to use a 074C as yuanjing has also used in their TPA3123 2.1 board. The left knob its for the subwoofer volume, the middle one for the left and right channel trebble and the one in the right for the R L channels volume.
You can also buy that connector with leads from any PC supply store (<$1 ea) as that is what they use for inputs to old style sound cards. Or pull from an old PC motherboard somewhere.
Would that be the same as a "mini" three pin fan power connector?
Thanks, xrk, for your continued generosity to fuel the DIY spirit!
Would that be the same as a "mini" three pin fan power connector?
Thanks, xrk, for your continued generosity to fuel the DIY spirit!
It depends on your sound card and fan combo, but they may be the same connector as they are made by Molex. I think it is called a minature 3-pin male/female plug/jack.
I'll look for those, thanks. There is a tres-cool electronics parts store near me that I haven't been into yet, and now is my chance. "If Baynesville doesn't have it, no one will."
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