Ha. Now there are "More than 10 available", when earlier it looked like there were only 12 available. I decided to take a chance as well and bought 2.
I contacted the seller identified by Tibi in post 7171. I asked if he had a 16 pin version of the one shown in Tibi's link. He responded with this
SF P101N 16 Pin Mechanism Original New Sanyo Laser Lens SFP101N 16 Pin | eBay
but that's the one that "everybody" has (and the one I had already bought myself). 😉
I contacted the seller as well for 29 dollar I can buy a second one and he ships the two via Express...less likely to pay at the door extra money like taxes...so I took the leap...😉
My plans so far
Would like thoughts from the team on my plans shown here
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...killer-high-end-transport-17.html#post3472916
Please post any responses to that thread. Thanks.
Would like thoughts from the team on my plans shown here
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...killer-high-end-transport-17.html#post3472916
Please post any responses to that thread. Thanks.
@dimkasta Very nice indeed!!! What about to seal the transformer in a wood brick, something like jarek do with capacitors?should not be something difficult to achieve
looking forward to your project development🙂
looking forward to your project development🙂
This is something I am considering. Wooden routed brick, internally shielded with copper tape (connected to ground to provide further shielding) and the transformer sealed inside.
The only problem is that serviceability goes out the window...
The only problem is that serviceability goes out the window...
Jarek you' re gonna love this one 🙂
Incidentally, I am waiting for a new custom-made transformer that I specifically requested not to be stabilised with resin, so I can insert a piece of wood in the center, and fill the remaining space with beeswax. Talk about convergence of minds 😉
Enclosing a trafo completely in wood/wax might turn out not to be such a great idea as it could potentially lead to trafo overheating problems - both wood and wax are excellent thermal insulators. But with a good (low-loss) trafo it might just work.
JVC boombox
Hi guys, I did hear a clone. The source was JVC RCEZ51, and I was very impressed by the quaility of the transport. It is impossible to find RCEZ31 or 51. What do you think about RC-ST1, it is using LA9242M and LC78601RE chips as well, but the motor driver is different: LA6541. Thanks, János PS: I just have found this: THE JVC RC-ST1 is the SAME as EZ31 ( has the same IC'S) but is more difficult to mod because all the stuff is on 1 single PCB. # 5846.
Hi guys, I did hear a clone. The source was JVC RCEZ51, and I was very impressed by the quaility of the transport. It is impossible to find RCEZ31 or 51. What do you think about RC-ST1, it is using LA9242M and LC78601RE chips as well, but the motor driver is different: LA6541. Thanks, János PS: I just have found this: THE JVC RC-ST1 is the SAME as EZ31 ( has the same IC'S) but is more difficult to mod because all the stuff is on 1 single PCB. # 5846.
Last edited:
And what about the JVC RC-ST3? It is using LA9242M and LA6541 chips. But there is a LC78622 DSP chip (with Digital out) instead of LC78601?
I'm not sure if I should use a Bobken or a P-A SSR01 for the separate 5V supply. Posting here instead of in my own "killer" thread since this one gets more traffic for maybe helping me with this choice.
Thanks for the offer. I just have bought a working JVC RC-ST3 for 21 € shipped. There is a Sanyo mechanic inside (hopefully), will see.
I have added a 47uF cap at the output of salas to reduce the ripple and I have moved the salas ground connection from the 7808 ground to a close point on the pcb. The cap is directly connected there.
Noise has dropped to about 10mV from 40mV. Nice one, but I believe it can go even lower... plus I m getting some ringing so I need to check this a bit more...
Next step is to check it with a 100uF cap.
Sonically its quite nice atm, but I am trying an electrolytic at C8 which is still breaking in, so I will avoid making any direct comments on the sound part...
Noise has dropped to about 10mV from 40mV. Nice one, but I believe it can go even lower... plus I m getting some ringing so I need to check this a bit more...
Next step is to check it with a 100uF cap.
Sonically its quite nice atm, but I am trying an electrolytic at C8 which is still breaking in, so I will avoid making any direct comments on the sound part...
Attachments
I got my two today. They look very nice. They look just like the picture in the ad; motors are marked Sanyo with Sanyo part numbers. The deck height is identical for the two, and dead on what it should be based on the specs. Based on looks alone they appear to be the genuine article.
Easter holidays here so things have been slow at the post office... Hopefully I ll get mine on Monday...
Any first sonic impressions?
Further to my tests with the salas psu, I have added a 47uF cap at the sense lines which eliminated the 5Mhz 200mV ringing and brought it up as straight 200mV random interference. To fight that I replaced the cap at the shiga entrance with a 1000uF and problem solved.
I don t think I can get it any lower than that...
Again, it s late so I cannot comment with certainty on the sonic change, but some low level listening shows significant clarity increase, especially in the mid frequencies separation. For example the reverb on pink floyd guitars is much much more easy to follow. There is the primary tone, and you can clearly hear at least two distinct delayed repeats, while before there was just a vague sense of depth...
Before wrapping everything up I think I will up the CCS current a bit too
Next stops: new mecha (like in previous post), spindle motor smoothing caps, test a very fast and small teflon on the sled motor, new 75R interconnect, lower inductance output resistors on a 75R-75R 14,2dB attenuation T pad, new wooden puck and finally chassis...
sigh... too much things to do... 😀
Any first sonic impressions?
Further to my tests with the salas psu, I have added a 47uF cap at the sense lines which eliminated the 5Mhz 200mV ringing and brought it up as straight 200mV random interference. To fight that I replaced the cap at the shiga entrance with a 1000uF and problem solved.
I don t think I can get it any lower than that...
Again, it s late so I cannot comment with certainty on the sonic change, but some low level listening shows significant clarity increase, especially in the mid frequencies separation. For example the reverb on pink floyd guitars is much much more easy to follow. There is the primary tone, and you can clearly hear at least two distinct delayed repeats, while before there was just a vague sense of depth...
Before wrapping everything up I think I will up the CCS current a bit too
Next stops: new mecha (like in previous post), spindle motor smoothing caps, test a very fast and small teflon on the sled motor, new 75R interconnect, lower inductance output resistors on a 75R-75R 14,2dB attenuation T pad, new wooden puck and finally chassis...
sigh... too much things to do... 😀
Attachments
No, I'm afraid not. I'm in the middle of rebuilding my B&K 707 tube tester this weekend. I thought I'd be done by now.
Since no one seems to be chiming in about the Bobken, I think I'm going to go with Per Anders' SSR01 super regulator for my 5V choice. I ordered that Linear Audio volume where they did the super reg measured and listening tests. Interested in seeing what they have to say.
OK guys... if you are still using an rca socket on the shiga side REMOVE IT and solder a proper 75R interconnect directly to the attenuator.
I have replaced my crappy interconnect with some properly terminated Belden 83264 (removed the BNC from one side) and while it still is freshly soldered and pretty much non broken-in, the increase in stage width and depth is amazing...
It still has some rough points like a bit fluffy bass, but I will give it a few days before judging it.
I have replaced my crappy interconnect with some properly terminated Belden 83264 (removed the BNC from one side) and while it still is freshly soldered and pretty much non broken-in, the increase in stage width and depth is amazing...
It still has some rough points like a bit fluffy bass, but I will give it a few days before judging it.
Attachments
If you're going to go this route, make sure the cable from the PCB digital out to the back panel is also 75 Ohm. One assumes you switched the output connector on the Shiga to a BNC. It's too late from the sound of it, but if you replaced one end with RCA to get to your DAC, you'd have been better off keeping the BNC and using a good BNC-RCA barrel (like a Bomar or similar).