in that case - be sure that either screw is electrically isolated on one ( even better - both ) ends ..... or that your screen-bell is electrically isolated from bottom of case , so you are not having shorting turn through donut itself
wire in windings is also isolated from core , electrically ..... but not magnetically
wire in windings is also isolated from core , electrically ..... but not magnetically
Attachments
Hmm... I didn't know that there still are possibilities for the electrical loop when trafo center is "metal free", but now that you say it makes sense with the magnetism and all. Well I have to make myself a nylon bolt then. 🙂
i think i rather would use a metal bolt and nylon washers on the bottom and on the cover(like the ones you find on speaker binding posts)
it can be hard for the nylon bolt treads to hold down the transformer.
it can be hard for the nylon bolt treads to hold down the transformer.
I'd wait to say that till I was absolutely positive what it means in Serbian.
(Eek me, Z)
Great work on the cover! Would the value of such a cover be to reduce stray fields or the transformer's mechanical noise?
A piece of pipe can be bought by the cm/inch.
The lid can be made with a generic electric drill, a metal file, and patience.
Leaves the acetylene & oxygen bottles, and a lighter.
Toroid shield
Another option, to preserve the clean looks of the shield. Use a good silicone to bond the shield over/around the transformer. Silver solder a piece of wire or braid to the bottom edge of the shield, and run it to a good chassis ground (or just let the shield "float", ungrounded, if hum is not a problem). Result is a grounded shield, with no bolts/nuts showing in the top, and with no dreaded "magnetic loop" around the toroid core. Voila.
(Now, back to the "photos" in this Pass amp photo thread!.....😀)
Another option, to preserve the clean looks of the shield. Use a good silicone to bond the shield over/around the transformer. Silver solder a piece of wire or braid to the bottom edge of the shield, and run it to a good chassis ground (or just let the shield "float", ungrounded, if hum is not a problem). Result is a grounded shield, with no bolts/nuts showing in the top, and with no dreaded "magnetic loop" around the toroid core. Voila.
(Now, back to the "photos" in this Pass amp photo thread!.....😀)
The transformer that I bought is designed for audio applications and have a minimal magnetic leakage so the cover is probably not necessary. I made it because the inside of the amp will be more "clean" looking in my opinion. If it also shields the trafo a little I consider that a bonus. 🙂
I'm with you 100%. It does look great and worth the effort on that basis alone. I was just curious because it looks tough to have so many diverse elements in a case without interference. I wondered if some level of scrutiny for their physical arrangement wasn't worthwhile. Then... I was thinking way back to my EE transmission line lab and our measured results for line-of-sight, ungrounded shields were not very good. Someone here may have some real emag experience to refute my observation but maybe an insulated cover would be mainly cosmetic? but hey, from a guy that buys chrome valve covers... i still like it 🙂
May not be the right thread, but has anyone created a Mouser BOM or cart for the F5 V2.8 boards? Would save a bit of time and help avoid mistakes.
Nice. Two questions -- how did you do the lettering on the front, and where did you get the nice silver feet?
