No wait all hot melt approach
I segmented the back and hot melt glued in sections before glue hardens. Having two hot melt guns and four hands would make this easier as I had to lay down the bead of hot melt furiously fast. It is fast and no wait but there is no room for error. Here is one panel glued on the back. I made the portion that covers the speaker chamber circular to ensure a good seal. One of the Son of Cornucopya is now done. This may not work so well for larger ones as you would really need to segment a lot. An alternative is to use 5 minute epoxy as that would be more forgiving than the 30 seconds one has with hot melt.
I segmented the back and hot melt glued in sections before glue hardens. Having two hot melt guns and four hands would make this easier as I had to lay down the bead of hot melt furiously fast. It is fast and no wait but there is no room for error. Here is one panel glued on the back. I made the portion that covers the speaker chamber circular to ensure a good seal. One of the Son of Cornucopya is now done. This may not work so well for larger ones as you would really need to segment a lot. An alternative is to use 5 minute epoxy as that would be more forgiving than the 30 seconds one has with hot melt.
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Should I use the same trim on the rear or could I get away with using a gold coloured metal trim. Should the front and back be the same or...?
Leave the back plain - there is little reason to dress something up that will only be on the wall.
Mine will be out of commission for the next little while. I have Watco stain, grill cloth, binding posts etc. to deal with so I hope someone comes up with a new listening experience while mine are down.
I have a question for you guys. I am think of using and Oak trim on the front, similar to a picture frame. Should I use the same trim on the rear or could I get away with using a gold coloured metal trim. Should the front and back be the same or...?
Whatever SWMBO wants for the trim. Easy answer?
Where will binding posts go? I think trim only goes on front like picture frame. If you slightly angled trim outwards you will get additional horn expansion to direct sound forward and louder. Mucho mas basso senor...😉

So I got a bunch of stuff today!
Front and back panels, 1/4" baltic birch. Chosen mainly for aesthetic purposes. A quick coat of polyurethane and they should look like a millon bucks.
A bunch of sheets of foamcore from the Dollar Store. Some black, some white. Golly, this stuff is cheap. The backing paper is basically a child's construction paper. The foam fine. Yes, it will be easy to shape, and strong enough at the horn's origin because there will be so much of it.
A sheet of 'nice' foamcore. From the graphics store, it has backing paper that is essentially poster-board, with the foam center. Much sturdier, much smoother, I am planning on using it for the parts of the throat that shows.
The rolled up paper is the scaleable .pdf that Dave made. It's scaled to have the outside of the horn at 30", as that is the dimension of the birch ply.
A new knife.
The large piece of lumber is a very straight bit of oak that was in the cut-off bin at the lumberyard. It will be by gauge and cutting edge for the foamcore.
i gotta stop reading this thread until i can find some foamcore i'm starting to stutter and i'm getting itchy!
That's one of the ones I was talking about. The ferrite version is very heavy. I would feel a plywood face necessary for that version.
I'm seriously considering this driver Tang Band W4-1320SIF 4" Bamboo Full Range Speaker.
Tang Band W4-1320SIF 4" Bamboo Full Range Speaker 264-914
The idea is that I'd like to buy one driver but a good one. I'd like to avoid getting another, and another, and another...
Same.
Mine will be out of commission for the next little while. I have Watco stain, grill cloth, binding posts etc. to deal with so I hope someone comes up with a new listening experience while mine are down.
I have a question for you guys. I am think of using and Oak trim on the front, similar to a picture frame. Should I use the same trim on the rear or could I get away with using a gold coloured metal trim. Should the front and back be the same or...?
Is the guy in the picture the shop foreman or the quality control guy?
QC. The foreman is coming home from work right now. She is actually interested in the project!
Way to go 6L6! Baltic Birch is a nice touch. Which driver were you using again?
Yes, the wood is going to be a bit more attractive than the underlayment, but I wasn't turned off by that, I figured a quick bit of paint would have fixed it. However, I like the birch better.
The question in my mind is if the glued edges of the spiral will be able to support the weight of the birch front and the driver. It might be no problem at all, but at this point it's unknown. (There is quite a bit of glue area...) Somebody thought some dowels towards the terminus of the throat would be a good idea for resonance control or reinforcement. I will look into it if there is an issue of strength.
The driver is the Planet-10 FF125wKeN --

Cool looking, eh? 😀 😀 😀 😀
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Cal and I discussed using bolts with tubes where speaker screws are.
Rather than dowels.
Ooh! That's a great idea! I never thought about that part, other than using through bolts and fender washers on the back. The tube is a great idea.
The dowels I'm envisioning near the end of the horns... to brace where the outer panels are furthest from the foamcore.
with tubes
I have been collecting the corrugated plastic spindles from cash receipt printers (Dalis the girl at the post office does the actual collecting). Some of them are long enuff to be perfect for this.
dave
Old plastic pen tubes could work too. Need snug fit or it rattles. Plumbers putty stuffed inside tube will also do the trick.
Artt Supply??
I'm 100 hundred miles away form such luxury. I knew it was a mistake moving to the Desert . Somehow, I will prevail.....🙂
Sandy- any art supply house will have the board, as well as reprographics houses and maybe even Walgreens . The stuff from the dollar store is really inexpensive. I did get one sheet 24x36 of 'good' foam core for the exposed bits.
I'm 100 hundred miles away form such luxury. I knew it was a mistake moving to the Desert . Somehow, I will prevail.....🙂
You can order them and have it in a few days. I have ordered boxes from this company before. They seem to have a wide variety of sizes at a reasonable price.
Foam Board, Foam Core in Stock - ULINE
Foam Board, Foam Core in Stock - ULINE
Another source for plastic tubes is those used for nails/screws to hang gutters. HD, Lowe's, etc. will have them in the gutter dept. - and cheap.
Doug
Doug
Another source for plastic tubes is those used for nails/screws to hang gutters.
Ferrules, I never though of that. Pretty dumb for a guy in the roofing business, no?
Is anyone building the smaller 20 inch version, or all you all going for the full size 70 cm or larger? Just wanted to have some comparisons from others for my build with tc9fd's.
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