I'm sorry but I really don't think, as I've already said, using that small box for both modules it's a good idea.
I suggest you to buy HiFi 2000 1GX288, it costs 30€ and you can fit all things inside it:
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I need this rather small enclosure to match my Preamp/ DAC, otherwise I would have gone for a full size one! Anyway, thanks!
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Thanks, McBob.
I know nothing, except what I have learned and I am prepared to learn from anybody.
If you have access to/can buy a second one you could build monoblocks.
That small box is suitable for a monoblock.
Just being silly again Andrew. 😉
I am however, like dtses also doing the squeeze play on a build for the beta boards. The BLAT should be up and running in a few days and has a 7" x 10" footprint. Hope to have a full build thread/blog up by the weekend.
I am however, like dtses also doing the squeeze play on a build for the beta boards. The BLAT should be up and running in a few days and has a 7" x 10" footprint. Hope to have a full build thread/blog up by the weekend.
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I unfortunately seem to be getting nowhere fast.Carefully resoldered all the smd components and fitted a new 3886;cleaned the pcb's and checked for solder links non found so I fired it up through a bulb tester which glowed brightly for a fraction of a second but the led did'nt glow nor the relay click.When I checked voltages there is +-29.3v but across C102/202 I have +14v but only -7.8v.There is no dc offset on the output but 2v on the input which again slowly decreases.Help!
I has been my experience if the wattage of the bulb is too high the relay will not activate in some situations. I have three different bulbs that I use. 20 - 40 - 60W.
Its a 40 watter Bob and works perfectly with the other board.Confused as to why I have -7.8v when previously before replacing the smd's it was -14.4v or there abouts and there is now no reading across the diode on the relay.
Sounds good. Have you tried swapping the relays or replacing the one on the non-functioning board?
The relay is in the ground return of the speaker.
You can measure the output voltage of the amplifier direct between spkr out and audio ground.
The bulb tester is to prevent damage due to an assembly or modification error.
But that does not stop the bulb tester being used while actually playing music. But this only applies to lowish Idle bias current amplifiers. It does not work for high bias amplifiers like Roenders 600mA bias fc100.
So back to the chipamp that does not work properly with the vulb tester in circuit. The relay should be on a yimer noit on a voltage detector monitoring the supply line.
If the voltage detector reads a low supply voltage and as a result the relay may, or may not pull in. That is a relay driver circuit failure, not an amplifier failure.
You can over-ride the relay power detection by taking 12V direct to the relay coil, but as said earlier you can still measue outputs by clipping/probing audio ground.
You can measure the output voltage of the amplifier direct between spkr out and audio ground.
The bulb tester is to prevent damage due to an assembly or modification error.
But that does not stop the bulb tester being used while actually playing music. But this only applies to lowish Idle bias current amplifiers. It does not work for high bias amplifiers like Roenders 600mA bias fc100.
So back to the chipamp that does not work properly with the vulb tester in circuit. The relay should be on a yimer noit on a voltage detector monitoring the supply line.
If the voltage detector reads a low supply voltage and as a result the relay may, or may not pull in. That is a relay driver circuit failure, not an amplifier failure.
You can over-ride the relay power detection by taking 12V direct to the relay coil, but as said earlier you can still measue outputs by clipping/probing audio ground.
Whoops I was disconnecting the transformer secondaries from the board and one of the spade connectors pulled straight out of the pcb.Refluxed and rewetted/soldered I connected things back up and the realay clicked;led lit and I now have +- 14.5v and an offset reading which has been steady at 4.8mv with the input shorted for the last 10/15 mins.
I did Bob yes.Strange that I had connected/disconnected umpteen times before with nothing coming apart and what appeared to be shiney solder joints.Anyway the board is still connected with 4.8mv offset and nothing overheating.Would I be better to try with a dummy load?
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Thanks for confirming what I was thinking Dario.I will connect up a source and an old pair of speakers tomorrow and have a listen.
Thanks Dario. The concept might be more appropriate for transistor heaters like the N.Pass F series but it's been fun to work out. More to come in a few days.
Hi folks.
Unfortunately didn't have much luck trying to get a Ref.C kit from Linuxguru, so am very interested in this Freman edition, which looks like it could sound even better?
Are boards still available please?
Cheers,
John.
Unfortunately didn't have much luck trying to get a Ref.C kit from Linuxguru, so am very interested in this Freman edition, which looks like it could sound even better?
Are boards still available please?
Cheers,
John.
Hi John,
yes, it sound better 😉
Sadly no, maybe you could ask if one of the Release Candidate partecipants that buyed spare boards wants to sell them.
In the next months, though, there will probably be a group buy.
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