For that price it will be interesting to see how is goes. I just put an order in for 1 x 125asx2 Icepower module which was considerably more than that. I will still need more channels by the end of the year. so I will watch with interest.
As long as you dont tell me I paid too much🙂
209 Euro plus postage
I bought a second Squeezebox Touch, two weeks ago only to see the Logitech shop has dropped the price by $45.00 this week.😡
If you see any cheaper ones (Icepower) let me know I am still possibly in the market.
David
Ok....
There are (or used to be) modules available as evaluation kits, which came with a complete cable kit at approx twice the price of the bare module.
There are (or used to be) modules available as evaluation kits, which came with a complete cable kit at approx twice the price of the bare module.
Yeah the price is great they told me it was send 25jan i am still waiting it is probably a real ship-ment.😀
I just ordered 4 more Hypex modules to go with my 180STs to make a 5.1 surround amp. The Front L/R will both be UcD400ST, the Rear L/R and center will all be UcD180ST, and the subwoofer will be a UcD400ST.
This will be powered by 4 Meanwell 350 watt SMPS for a total PS rating of 1400 watts. Needless to say I never intend to extract that much power from the system. My main speakers can only handle 125 WRMS but I could easily use 200 watts for the subwoofer.
I gutted a surround receiver to use the chassis - all I need to do is make a front panel. It's big enough to also fit a wireless infrared volume controller that uses a 6 gang Alps potentiometer (ebay from China) so I can sit back and control the volume on all the speakers without getting up.😀
This will be powered by 4 Meanwell 350 watt SMPS for a total PS rating of 1400 watts. Needless to say I never intend to extract that much power from the system. My main speakers can only handle 125 WRMS but I could easily use 200 watts for the subwoofer.
I gutted a surround receiver to use the chassis - all I need to do is make a front panel. It's big enough to also fit a wireless infrared volume controller that uses a 6 gang Alps potentiometer (ebay from China) so I can sit back and control the volume on all the speakers without getting up.😀
It is 180W with 4 Ohm load so with 8 Ohm 90W. When all modules are fed from the same transformer it can be 500VA and still be almost oversized.
Last edited:
I would be very interested to know more details on where & what you purchased re remote & potentiometer as I would like to take the same approach but don't really know what to buy. I am about to build a 6 channel Coldamp.
I misunderstood, I want to remotely change the volume globally not six separate channels. I guess being able to control three channels at a time would be good as I am running three channels to one speaker.
David
Last edited:
Ahh the hypex... Never will I need another amplification.
My stereo chain is now:
squeezebox classic >coax> W4S DAC-2 (volume control) >balanced> 2xHypex 400HG+HxG powered by 2 SMPS400 > B&W 804S
I simply love this setup.
When going 5.1, my Denon 4306 feeds 1 more 400HG for center (on it's own SMPS 400) and 2 400AD's, which are fed from the 2 front SMPS as well (crossed - front left & rear right, etc) - the DAC-2 has a HT bypass to make this all very very easy. 🙂
My stereo chain is now:
squeezebox classic >coax> W4S DAC-2 (volume control) >balanced> 2xHypex 400HG+HxG powered by 2 SMPS400 > B&W 804S
I simply love this setup.
When going 5.1, my Denon 4306 feeds 1 more 400HG for center (on it's own SMPS 400) and 2 400AD's, which are fed from the 2 front SMPS as well (crossed - front left & rear right, etc) - the DAC-2 has a HT bypass to make this all very very easy. 🙂
Last edited:
Here's a link to the MV-06 I'm using. It will control all 6 channels simultaneously via infrared remote using a passive alps pot.
Remote Volume Control & Input Selector DIY KIT MV06 - eBay (item 260455171082 end time Feb-19-11 00:12:37 PST)
As far as the Hypex webshop I'm now wondering if I should have just ordered the modules from China on ebay. I ordered and paid two days ago for 1 day UPS service but my order is still "pending" (ie., "limbo").
I received no confirmation email from Hypex and there is no contact info on the webstore site. I guess I'll just have to wait until they get around to it and wonder what's going on with my order. That's not a good way to treat your customers.
Great modules but a terrible webstore IMO. If there is a link to contact Hypex about an order it's well buried - I could not find one other than for returns.
Last edited:
Thanks
I am having similar issues with the Icepower module I ordered, I sent the money via Paypal 3 days ago & have not heard a thing, no receipt no nothing. I have just chased them up.
100K?
Your getting such transparent sonics with an unbuffered 100k passive pot?
Your getting such transparent sonics with an unbuffered 100k passive pot?
Not yet, and probably no.
I've taken that into account. My guess is I'll need a buffer between the pot and the Hypex to provide a low impedance signal to the Hypex, but I'm certainly going to try the pot first without a buffer. I don't know what the input impedance of the Hypex is - that's the determining factor. With the pot all the way up it will work fine - it's when you turn it down and start putting the series resistance of the pot in there that trouble may start.
I think the MV-06 was designed with either tube amps in mind or to use a buffer. If you know of a 10k pot version I'm there.
BTW, Hypex is out of stock for 3 weeks on the 180ST modules. Mystery solved there.
Can anyone tell me where I can get some good reading on input impedance matching, as a beginner I really don't have a handle on that subject. I'd just go out and buy a 100k pot & have no idea why it wasn't working properly.😕
I have received my sure amp. Here a first look, nice packet in blackbox.
I was warned to check the cooling so I unmounted the heatsink. It looks like a repaired board to me. Can be just as good by the way.
First of all I have to clean the flux. Check the connection under the microscope and place silpath to ensure cooling.
I was warned to check the cooling so I unmounted the heatsink. It looks like a repaired board to me. Can be just as good by the way.
First of all I have to clean the flux. Check the connection under the microscope and place silpath to ensure cooling.
Attachments
Last edited:
Volume Control at UcD Input
This refers to the above questions on volume control and impedance matching:
The UcD180 has a 100K input impedance, check if this is correct for the HcD400 as well.
If you use a 100K volume pot connected to a low impedance source, the impedance seen by the UcD opamp input as you rotate the pot wanders between 0 and about 20K. With a 200pF capacitance, you would get a -3 dB corner frequency of 40 KHz. Not so bad. Just keep the shielded connection between the pot wiper and the UcD input as short as possible. Note that the assumed 200 pF is the total from your wiring plus the HcD input capacitance. Maybe even 100 pF is achievable, which would extend your worst case corner frequency to 80 KHz. This worst case occurs when your pot is 6dB down from its maximum.
If you want to block potential DC with an input cap, you can either place it at the input of the pot or between the wiper and the UcD-input. The latter is preferable, since you get less corner frequency variation when you rotate the pot. With a 1 uF cap, you get a -3 dB frequency of 1.4 Hz.
So, a 100K pot is actually fine and should not degrade the sound, although I would personally go for 50K.
By the way, a buffer after the pot is pretty useless since the input opamp of the UcD provides essentially the same function.
This refers to the above questions on volume control and impedance matching:
The UcD180 has a 100K input impedance, check if this is correct for the HcD400 as well.
If you use a 100K volume pot connected to a low impedance source, the impedance seen by the UcD opamp input as you rotate the pot wanders between 0 and about 20K. With a 200pF capacitance, you would get a -3 dB corner frequency of 40 KHz. Not so bad. Just keep the shielded connection between the pot wiper and the UcD input as short as possible. Note that the assumed 200 pF is the total from your wiring plus the HcD input capacitance. Maybe even 100 pF is achievable, which would extend your worst case corner frequency to 80 KHz. This worst case occurs when your pot is 6dB down from its maximum.
If you want to block potential DC with an input cap, you can either place it at the input of the pot or between the wiper and the UcD-input. The latter is preferable, since you get less corner frequency variation when you rotate the pot. With a 1 uF cap, you get a -3 dB frequency of 1.4 Hz.
So, a 100K pot is actually fine and should not degrade the sound, although I would personally go for 50K.
By the way, a buffer after the pot is pretty useless since the input opamp of the UcD provides essentially the same function.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.