Would be a fun contest to have. Pick a Pass amp or First Watt, and everyone makes the cheapest version they can that's not compromised to be worse than a commercial version of the same. I would predict a lot of pots and pans being used for heat sinks! Surplus and E-bay allowed.. But not stuf you have "Laying around" You would need receipts..
Of course looks could also be judged- Balancing cost and appearance..
Of course looks could also be judged- Balancing cost and appearance..
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
No KK or Pass PCBs here, just me and a load of chemicals in the Kitchen.
I cannot take full credit for the layout, it is based on a previously published design. I have changed the design to include much more copper than the original, back to back Q1a and Q1b and fit an SMD Tantalum Cap for C1. I've also added a second row of pads for inductive free resistors at the output.
Unfortunately my 0.8mm drill snapped half way through drilling so there are a mixture of 0.8 and 1.0mm holes. I'm sure they'll mostly be 1mm when I've finished test fitting the components.
Very well etched boards. But above all, I stay with the tablecloth that sponsors all your pictures 🙂 look's like my grandma's!
Don't blame me, the wife's Russian so we've got a classic "Russian" Table cloth.
We put it away when we have visitors.
We put it away when we have visitors.
Whether or not this is cost effective beats me. So far I've used 0.12m2 of Photo-Sensitive board to produce the two Amplifier PCBs and one of the four MosFet boards.
I must admit that my UV exposure unit consists of a couple of old 8W UV tubes so the "exposure" is a bit tricky to normalize.
But I'm in the TRUE DIY spirit.
I must admit that my UV exposure unit consists of a couple of old 8W UV tubes so the "exposure" is a bit tricky to normalize.
But I'm in the TRUE DIY spirit.
Nice PCBs! You are true to the DIY spirit.
I love the table cloth too 🙂 My wife's ancestors immigrated from Russia. I'll bet she'd give her right arm for something so beautiful.
I love the table cloth too 🙂 My wife's ancestors immigrated from Russia. I'll bet she'd give her right arm for something so beautiful.
The build continues.
The forums state tha it is important to keep the 24 MOSFETs in thermal equilibrium.
I've decided to build a 10mm thick square frame of aluminuium and to encase the frame with 0.40K/Watt Heatsinks.
Here we are just test fitting the first of the heatsinks. There are seven in total, leaving one panel free for tye interconnects. Not all the fixing bolts are fitted yet as I ran out of electricity.
The forums state tha it is important to keep the 24 MOSFETs in thermal equilibrium.
I've decided to build a 10mm thick square frame of aluminuium and to encase the frame with 0.40K/Watt Heatsinks.
Here we are just test fitting the first of the heatsinks. There are seven in total, leaving one panel free for tye interconnects. Not all the fixing bolts are fitted yet as I ran out of electricity.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Why, was there footy on the telly?....as I ran out of electricity.
The build continues....
C'mon Andy, 9Mp/2.1MB image in such a low quality (blur and all) is just to much. It slows down the forum significantly.
I bet you can do better than that 😉
If not, just post the link, don't embed the picture, please...
I've seen one example of a case using the Conrad mf35-151.5 heat sinks. I bought a set from Chris Wujek's group buy. I haven't put my case together. Are there other folks who bought the Conrad mf35-151.5 who've finished their case?
I have 4 of those suckers that are being used in two cases. I hope to get them finished in a couple of months.
I've seen one example of a case using the Conrad mf35-151.5 heat sinks. I bought a set from Chris Wujek's group buy. I haven't put my case together. Are there other folks who bought the Conrad mf35-151.5 who've finished their case?
I know Tripmaster's F5 is with sinks from that Conrad GB. I would have ordered them too, but his delivery times/communication was very worrying indeed I read.
I got a similar price direct from Conrad in Australia, for 2x pieces direct to UK. They quoted me as follows:
"We don't have a distributor in the UK but we can send. Costs in AUD (GBP approx. 1.00 AUD = 0.577600 GBP) with a choice of delivery options would be:
MF35-151.5 x 2 @ 51.12 ea. 102.24 (59.05)
Delivery 5.4 kg (Aus. Post Sea Freight 10 - 12 weeks) 38.65 (22.32)
Delivery (Aus. Post Standard Air 7-12 working days) 97.02 (56.04)
Payment options: credit card (Visa, Mastercard),
Paypal (in AUD to account sales@conradheatsinks.com ),
money order, etc.
Availability: in stock
(delivery can be relatively expensive for smaller consignments, unfortunately)
Thankyou for your enquiry and if you have any further queries or wish to
proceed with an order, do let me know.
With regards,
Julian Wales"
Conrad Heatsinks
Ph. 61 3 9387 7106
Fax. 61 3 9387 2896
Email sales@conradheatsinks.com
Web site www.conradheatsinks.com
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I managed to get mine from E-Bay - see previous photos.
They are 197(W) x 160(H) x 50(D) and are approximately 0.4 C/Watt.
With the 10mm Aluminium Sub-Chassis the 7 heatsinks should work fairly well together but time will tell when I start to heat them up. I was lucky, these have all been drilled but nothing has penetrated through to the fin side of the heatsink. I'm yet to decide whether to lightly spray paint them Matt Black or to get them anodized as they are in several diffferent colours from Blue to Black at the moment.
If you are buying NEW, why not use my design approach with the aluminium chassis and use RS 505-2860 MONSTER heatsinks. They are only £37.30 each and are 0.39 C/Watt.
I was going to use these until I had my lucky find on E-Bay.
If not familiar with RS - go to http://www.rs-online.com.
They are 197(W) x 160(H) x 50(D) and are approximately 0.4 C/Watt.
With the 10mm Aluminium Sub-Chassis the 7 heatsinks should work fairly well together but time will tell when I start to heat them up. I was lucky, these have all been drilled but nothing has penetrated through to the fin side of the heatsink. I'm yet to decide whether to lightly spray paint them Matt Black or to get them anodized as they are in several diffferent colours from Blue to Black at the moment.
If you are buying NEW, why not use my design approach with the aluminium chassis and use RS 505-2860 MONSTER heatsinks. They are only £37.30 each and are 0.39 C/Watt.
I was going to use these until I had my lucky find on E-Bay.
If not familiar with RS - go to http://www.rs-online.com.
Hi Andy,If you are buying NEW, why not use my design approach with the aluminium chassis and use RS 505-2860 MONSTER heatsinks. They are only £37.30 each and are 0.39 C/Watt.
indeed, if you like to have additional water cooling... 😉
Otherwise, classics & others (without hole) from Conrad, Fischer etc.

My calculations indicate the is the sub-chassis successfully shares the heat out to the 7 heatsinks, the Aleph 4 will run at about 35 Degress above ambient, or about 60 Degrees which should be fine with no extra water cooling.
Dont forget that the 0.25m2 lid will also be dissipating heat which has not been taken into account. Nor has the 200 x 160mm connector panel. Maybe not too significant against the 0.06 C/Watt heatsinks but everything will help.
As I said, only time will tell.
The original Aleph 4 ran at a hot 85 Degrees, I'm hoping to run cooler than that.
Dont forget that the 0.25m2 lid will also be dissipating heat which has not been taken into account. Nor has the 200 x 160mm connector panel. Maybe not too significant against the 0.06 C/Watt heatsinks but everything will help.
As I said, only time will tell.
The original Aleph 4 ran at a hot 85 Degrees, I'm hoping to run cooler than that.
04dgmsilv,
That looks great. What did you do for the panels around the heatsinks? The front looks very impressive.
That looks great. What did you do for the panels around the heatsinks? The front looks very impressive.
04dgmsilv,
That looks great. What did you do for the panels around the heatsinks? The front looks very impressive.
Panels are attached to the heatsinks with 1" x 1" angle. Front and back panels are from Front Panel Express. Top panel is left over from a damaged Parmetal cover and the bottom is 1/4" aluminum plate.
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