They are not oppsite. My second statement explain where are the most differences.
I disagree. It has a lot to do with geometry, and less to cable design (considering the same material, of course)
exactly. That is cable design.
the first says you are sure they are different.
The second says you are not sure.
Which do we believe?
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After several tests using always solid core copper as conductor, finally I prefer the copper with teflon tube insulation. Of course I am asuming that I prefer solid core wire that multistrand wire & not comparing geometry or litz designs.
Other thing important to avoid capacitance is the teflon tube must be oversized to left the maximum air between the solid copper & the teflon tube, the cables for + & - must be separated the maximum as possible to avoid capacitance & magnetic fields throught both cables, about inductance all we can do is all people knows: avoid to coil the cable like an inductor.
About single crystal, conductor purity & other similar properties I don't believe.
Other thing important to avoid capacitance is the teflon tube must be oversized to left the maximum air between the solid copper & the teflon tube, the cables for + & - must be separated the maximum as possible to avoid capacitance & magnetic fields throught both cables, about inductance all we can do is all people knows: avoid to coil the cable like an inductor.
About single crystal, conductor purity & other similar properties I don't believe.
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Both, of course.
Are you joking with me, with such selective quoting?
What i meant (which seemed obvious to me) was that: "Among the characteristics, capacitance is largely different, but that i didnt know about the inductance. (because i cant find my papers)"
It is condition sufficient that one property is largely different for the whole cable to be different, electrically.
Can we get back in topic, now?
Guys, let's not get off track. I was merely trying to make people more aware or just remind them of the significant effect of a few centimeters of wire in connecting a regulator to the load. This suggests that remote sensing or very short (thick) wires are the best solution. Furthermore, since multi-stranded or litz wire has lower inductance wrt thickness, it might be best.
Ha, i'm not even going to enter into this one, suffice to say you'll see me using 12-14AWG solid core copper in foamed teflon. I prefer primarily silver for digital connections (very very thin solid), copper or silver for line level (depending on application and gear its being used with) and pretty much always copper for power.
I always use solid if I can, if it has to move quite a bit then I use stranded
I always use solid if I can, if it has to move quite a bit then I use stranded
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I don't understand why do you need batteries to power a regulator😕?
Why do not power directly with batteries?
So as told Iko shunt regs drains a lot of current & the standard batteries do not have enough power to supply the regs a lot of time like connected directly to the load.
Why do not power directly with batteries?
So as told Iko shunt regs drains a lot of current & the standard batteries do not have enough power to supply the regs a lot of time like connected directly to the load.
Ok generally agree with you, only a few points more:
About digital connections 1st of all I prefer that all cable & connectors will have the characteristic impedance needed over if it's silver or copper, the prefered dielectric is air-foamed teflon, also for digital connectors prefer BNC 75 ohms over RCA 75 ohms due to the best mechanical contact & the last issue & not less important is the screening: I prefer copper foil or better ERS tape (this last is superb).
Hi Iko,
I will assume inherited low noise battery will be pass on to regulator and finally to the DAC I will be powering. Most importantly, it will eliminate mains fluctuation so I can go for the lowest input voltage thus minimised the heat at the regulator.
Also, I dont have enough voltage at the transformer output currently to drop 15v across the regulator, I only have ~5v margin.
Hi Merlin,
Well, I am probably asking for the sky. From what I understand, battery voltage may fluctuate a bit especially when battery level is getting low. I may want put a capacitor at the input of the load to stablise things alittle, logical?
Very quickly, will please show me whats the best way to drop or increase the voltage of the battery to desired level? A simple voltage divider (2 resistors, that's all for a low noise supply) for dropping? How about increasing? I was afraid DC-DC converter might be a noisy solution.
Thanks in advance 🙂
I will assume inherited low noise battery will be pass on to regulator and finally to the DAC I will be powering. Most importantly, it will eliminate mains fluctuation so I can go for the lowest input voltage thus minimised the heat at the regulator.
Also, I dont have enough voltage at the transformer output currently to drop 15v across the regulator, I only have ~5v margin.
Hi Merlin,
Well, I am probably asking for the sky. From what I understand, battery voltage may fluctuate a bit especially when battery level is getting low. I may want put a capacitor at the input of the load to stablise things alittle, logical?
Very quickly, will please show me whats the best way to drop or increase the voltage of the battery to desired level? A simple voltage divider (2 resistors, that's all for a low noise supply) for dropping? How about increasing? I was afraid DC-DC converter might be a noisy solution.
Thanks in advance 🙂
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Surely you can find some old transformer in some old stereo that will give you the right voltage? Most transformers I ever got are second hand, used, found in some surplus store or pulled out of old equipment. Lots of people throw out old printers, and they usually have those wall wart supplies capable of 30V/1A.
The other option is to build Salas' v1 or v1.2 (soon to appear) which don't need such a high differential.
One more option, I can redraw the CCS for you for a small drop, but then it'll use a p-channel mosfet, and you'll have to build it without a PCB, which is actually easy.
The other option is to build Salas' v1 or v1.2 (soon to appear) which don't need such a high differential.
One more option, I can redraw the CCS for you for a small drop, but then it'll use a p-channel mosfet, and you'll have to build it without a PCB, which is actually easy.
The way to increase the batterie voltage is easy, simply connect in series the + of batterie nº 1 with the - of batterie nº 2 & you will have one + & one - instead two + & two -, several examples:
If you have two 5V batteries with this system you get a 10V battery
For 12V you can do with 6V batteries
For 24V you can do with 12V batteries
For 18V you can do with 9V batteries
Etc...
Now I don't remeber exactly the IC chip number or manufacturer but there is a chip to check the batteries voltage level & when is low the same chip change the power to the other battery charged & put the discharged to charge so you never will be worried about to charge or change batteries.😉
If you have two 5V batteries with this system you get a 10V battery
For 12V you can do with 6V batteries
For 24V you can do with 12V batteries
For 18V you can do with 9V batteries
Etc...
Now I don't remeber exactly the IC chip number or manufacturer but there is a chip to check the batteries voltage level & when is low the same chip change the power to the other battery charged & put the discharged to charge so you never will be worried about to charge or change batteries.😉
Hi Iko,
Thanks for the offer but please dont let this affects your development of the main version for the mass. I am still considering my options, ECdesign has a quite different concept together & other regulator including an article written by Jung as seen in Audioxpress(easiest solution will be using 2 LM317 as current source).
However your work interest me most, its just how I would integrate it into my CDP's DAC. Salas 1.2 will be interesting.
Ps: I am trying to save this power transformer because its a vintage Tamura in my Sony 337ESD. Also trying very hard to keep it simple. 🙂
Hi Merlin,
I dont mean this type of increasing voltage method. I mean stepping up the voltage of a 12v. Eg. From a single 12v battery, I can derive 5v or 15v like what ECdesign had done recently.
Thanks for the offer but please dont let this affects your development of the main version for the mass. I am still considering my options, ECdesign has a quite different concept together & other regulator including an article written by Jung as seen in Audioxpress(easiest solution will be using 2 LM317 as current source).
However your work interest me most, its just how I would integrate it into my CDP's DAC. Salas 1.2 will be interesting.
Ps: I am trying to save this power transformer because its a vintage Tamura in my Sony 337ESD. Also trying very hard to keep it simple. 🙂
Hi Merlin,
I dont mean this type of increasing voltage method. I mean stepping up the voltage of a 12v. Eg. From a single 12v battery, I can derive 5v or 15v like what ECdesign had done recently.
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Will be more easy to do a battery of 18V with two 9V & after decrease the voltage for 15V & 5V......😉
yes, but I wasnt going to take the thread even further OT by mentioning connectors now was I
i'm afraid that the whole venture of maintaining characteristic impedance over a connection that has solder is fruitless if you wish to DIY. I do what I can to keep to that too, but its actually near impossible to do unless you use all premade video cable and solderless BNC. I doubt very much your homebrew cable with copper foil and ERS paper maintains characteristic impedance. like I said I applaud the effort and I do what I can too, but if you think yo are actually achieving it I think you might be surprised. BNC is better more because the conductors are in the proper ratio for the impedance and the fact the center pin remains shielded to the end, not much to do with the physical connection. if you want physical connection go for the bocchino brenda B2 with claw-lock RCA ($$$), but no way is it 75Rok, so the project does seem to be still moving along, but i'm glad I didnt plan around it. I do appreciate the effort to get it right though and i'm sure I will enjoy the regs when they do become a reality. I will use them on a different project to what I had planned though
Iko,
I've been reading the prior thread on Salas v1, following along with simulations, then jumped to this one in the past few days, and haven't read it all the way through, so, please excuse my question as it's probably been asked before - can I use your boards for a 50v 150 to 200mA supply?
Thanks
Ken
I've been reading the prior thread on Salas v1, following along with simulations, then jumped to this one in the past few days, and haven't read it all the way through, so, please excuse my question as it's probably been asked before - can I use your boards for a 50v 150 to 200mA supply?
Thanks
Ken
yes, but I wasnt going to take the thread even further OT by mentioning connectors now was I
ok, so the project does seem to be still moving along, but i'm glad I didnt plan around it. I do appreciate the effort to get it right though and i'm sure I will enjoy the regs when they do become a reality. I will use them on a different project to what I had planned though
I never told nothing about solder😡
All BNC connectors aren't 75 ohms, exist BNC 50 ohms😀
I never said that is necessary to use the copper foil together the ESR, actually I use pre-made 75 ohms coaxial with copper foil + conductor solid copper + 75 ohms solderless BNC connectors.
Right as I said before the BNC connectors are better for two reasons:
1-resuming your words for the: "signal integrity"
2-and are far mechanical better than no locking RCA.
The best digital cable I made was not 75 ohms, because don't use connectors, use tube copper core conductor, teflon tube air spaced, ESR shielded conserving always the signal integrity. But here are more reasons why this special cable sounds better than a simple coaxial TV 75 ohms cable with RCA or BNC solderless.
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