i use the dcx2496 to give a bass bost for the OB. I do mid-top through a std crossover. Listening to the top end with it was very disappointing. I am sure the mods they are doing improve this, but I am a bit ham-fisted with digital - smd still.
And for me it would kill my growing infatuation with the lovely TDA1541 chipset, I'm not sure I want to break off that love affair. I suppose you could have several 1541As doing each of your digital streams, but that is probably not easy to do and still compromised due to them being designed for CD specs.
Second that!
This is the primary reason for removing the OP AMP board, or bypassing it, with 24 step transformer stepped attenuators, six for out put and one for input that will act as the overall passive volume control. All mounted in a box on top of the Berringer and just plugged in place of their analog bits. Op Amps are OK, especially when supported with ground control loops (electron pools starting here Groundside Electrons - diyAudio ) but I think very good transformers, allowing the digital portion of the DCX to run full bit rate all the time, will be a superior choice and allow me to feed the input CCS of all of the amps directly.
And I have to say, 24/88.2 input is just awesome. Mad Romy sent me a live FM, 24/88.2 digital recording of the SF Orchestra, performing Carmena Burana, that I thought I might die listening to.
Bud
>>> I am very unsure about crossover points but with a Beta 8A and waveguide tweeter I should have a huge range of options from 1khz to 10khz I would think.
I spoke to one of the eminence techs the other day regarding crossing the beta 8a to one of their compression tweeters for 'home use and hi end sound' and the guy said crossover at 2khz because the driver breaks up above that. From the charts it looks good out to about 4khz to me but he said 2 would be better. Just passing along the info i received... maybe another tech would have said something different? I know i would play with the crossover forever and that's why i decided against the beta, but that's just me.
The speakers look fantastic! I'm sure with the required elbow grease they will sound amazing.
Godzilla
I spoke to one of the eminence techs the other day regarding crossing the beta 8a to one of their compression tweeters for 'home use and hi end sound' and the guy said crossover at 2khz because the driver breaks up above that. From the charts it looks good out to about 4khz to me but he said 2 would be better. Just passing along the info i received... maybe another tech would have said something different? I know i would play with the crossover forever and that's why i decided against the beta, but that's just me.
The speakers look fantastic! I'm sure with the required elbow grease they will sound amazing.
Godzilla
If the beta8 does break up above 2 Khz would it be OK to use a 4th order LR crossover at 2.5Khz ? If you ask why , I read somewhere that it's better to use the APT80 above 2.5 Khz !
Is there an audible difference between the Alpha8 and Beta8 drivers ?
Is there an audible difference between the Alpha8 and Beta8 drivers ?
"...What I heard is 3.5kHz..."
Yeah you heard right. It was 3.5 Khz. My brain is frazzled with age !😉
That 2.5Khz in my post #186 should have been 3.5 Khz. Sorry folks.
Thanks CLS for catching that goof up quickly.
Yeah you heard right. It was 3.5 Khz. My brain is frazzled with age !😉
That 2.5Khz in my post #186 should have been 3.5 Khz. Sorry folks.
Thanks CLS for catching that goof up quickly.
Last edited:
Then maybe 3.5khz is what I will aim for when I have a first proper listen. I know some would prefer much lower and some much higher in order to not place a x-o in the area where the ear is most sensitive but personally I feel I will need to try a few things and see what sounds correct to me.
I would recommend that you first listen to your 8 inch driver without crossover after mounting it on your baffle. Spend some time with it ( listen to it ). THEN add a crossover and the tweeter and you might know what suits it best. It's possible that you can get away with lower order crossovers. Crossovers do strange things to the sound . Flatter measured sound might not always sound 'right' ! 🙂
OK, I will do that. I know what we measure only hints at what we hear and what we can hear is not easy to measure. I found with my mk1s some measurements were invaluable but flatter wasn't ultimately best and the final tuning was done by ear. They still measure pretty flat in the listening seat, however.
Great. I think you will end up with a pretty good system. Remember that you need to get familiar with your driver in its free state to know what you can effectively use from it. Then you can cage it with an appropriate crossover without suffocating it. That's when they will sing........
😉
😉
Hi, once again a very usefull thread ( and as always a usless input by me 😉 ), hope my open baffle will do the same 🙂
Good job Simon!
Hi Matthieu and thank you!
It's not *that* useful yet because the speakers aren't yet finished 🙁
I'm spending all my time rebuilding the top of my V6, in which the head gaskets (one or even both!) had blown. The strip down took me weeks but the heads have been tested and skimmed now. Being a modding man I'm now working the ports a little to remove the casting marks... when it's all back together I'll get working on my speakers again!
Simon
It's not *that* useful yet because the speakers aren't yet finished 🙁
I'm spending all my time rebuilding the top of my V6, in which the head gaskets (one or even both!) had blown. The strip down took me weeks but the heads have been tested and skimmed now. Being a modding man I'm now working the ports a little to remove the casting marks... when it's all back together I'll get working on my speakers again!
Simon
Ahh stupid pistions engine! People with real man's toy, rotary, don't waste such time 😉
A bit off topic, wich car? And that's wise while it's open, they can't buil proper intake manifold...
A bit off topic, wich car? And that's wise while it's open, they can't buil proper intake manifold...
It's a Mondeo mk1, not a very fashionable car but it does the job quite well in many ways! It's quite modified of course... 😀
Rotary engines again lol
Rotary engines again lol
An old shop-fitting/exhibition display builder T-nut tip (where fast assembly/disassembly of partition walls etc, is required): Where the spiked flange bites into the material, drive a small (10 - 15mm -- ~1/2") pan head screw into the check-out to fix the t-nut into position. This allows for limitless driver removal without the t-nuts falling to the floor.
Do all 4 or just the opposing flanges. The screw will find its own angle as its driven in, with the head resting on the t-nut at one side and the baffle material on the other. So don't worry when it begins to angle itself away from the t-nut, just drive it home.
For absolute neatness find a forstner or spade bit of appropriate diameter and drill to the depth of the flange thickness for flush fitting t-nuts and non angled screw heads.
Lovely project by the way 😉
Hope this image makes sense 🙂
Do all 4 or just the opposing flanges. The screw will find its own angle as its driven in, with the head resting on the t-nut at one side and the baffle material on the other. So don't worry when it begins to angle itself away from the t-nut, just drive it home.
For absolute neatness find a forstner or spade bit of appropriate diameter and drill to the depth of the flange thickness for flush fitting t-nuts and non angled screw heads.
Lovely project by the way 😉
Hope this image makes sense 🙂
Attachments
Last edited:
Hi, I think I know what you mean, we're putting screws into the back side of the tee nut to anchor the flanges in place? Looks a good tip for MDF. In the plywood they're SOLID, I don't think they'll come out.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.