Hi Matthieu,
I'm no engineer but I feel that isn't likely what's happening. I don't know what is causing this behaviour.
Bear in mind Steve's was unhappy with a regulated/lower voltage on the MINUS rail, not the one with the big cap. The -10V rail on Steve's just has the standard 1000uF poo cap.
Simon
I'm no engineer but I feel that isn't likely what's happening. I don't know what is causing this behaviour.
Bear in mind Steve's was unhappy with a regulated/lower voltage on the MINUS rail, not the one with the big cap. The -10V rail on Steve's just has the standard 1000uF poo cap.
Simon
, born December 1st, 13:34.
Oh, congratulations Ray, she's very cute!
Any mods planned or will you keep her standard for the next 15-20 years?
Simon
Any mods planned or will you keep her standard for the next 15-20 years?
Simon
Congratulations Ray!
LOL @ Simon
Servo amps - I used LM317/337 at 7.5V and never had my player skip a beat, infact it tracked better after (quicker to lock onto track) but I may have imagined it. Bear in mind you have to do a bit of re-routing of the power lines for one of them. You have to isolate a track from one of the big caps to one of the amps and connect it the other side, then you can remove a jumper for your new reg input/output. It should be clear looking at the service manual layout.
The amps only output 5V signals and if you use 7-7.5V regs that's enough overhead for amp and regulator, i.e., 10V-->7V-->5V.
LOL @ Simon
Servo amps - I used LM317/337 at 7.5V and never had my player skip a beat, infact it tracked better after (quicker to lock onto track) but I may have imagined it. Bear in mind you have to do a bit of re-routing of the power lines for one of them. You have to isolate a track from one of the big caps to one of the amps and connect it the other side, then you can remove a jumper for your new reg input/output. It should be clear looking at the service manual layout.
The amps only output 5V signals and if you use 7-7.5V regs that's enough overhead for amp and regulator, i.e., 10V-->7V-->5V.
Thanks guys. I think i'll keep her standard first, see how she sounds first, and maybe, if I don't like her tone after a few years... 😉
May have to go shopping for a pink soldering iron, who knows... 😀
Ray
May have to go shopping for a pink soldering iron, who knows... 😀
Ray
That's your greatest success Ray! =) So cute!
And I did re-routed one of the PS, one jumper removed (positive one) and a wire after reg to after jumper pin.
We are at least 2 to have noticed a faster reading 😉
And I did re-routed one of the PS, one jumper removed (positive one) and a wire after reg to after jumper pin.
Congratulations Ray 😉
December will not be cheap from now on 🙂
P.S Simon already has a pink iron
Brent
Bottle-fed I hope? (as a valve/tube man...)
Regards to the track re-routing;
1) Remove U234, U161 and U237 shown in red to isolate the drivers from the raw supplies.
2) Insert -ve reg at U234 (use holes as input and output)
3) Insert +ve reg at either U161 or U237 (use holes as input and output
4) Connect blue wire as shown (you can use any colour 🙂 )
Simples.
Regards to the track re-routing;
1) Remove U234, U161 and U237 shown in red to isolate the drivers from the raw supplies.
2) Insert -ve reg at U234 (use holes as input and output)
3) Insert +ve reg at either U161 or U237 (use holes as input and output
4) Connect blue wire as shown (you can use any colour 🙂 )
Simples.
Attachments
How innocent the man is, that's no soldering iron, but it is rated 100w...
...aaaaand moving back on topic.
What have people's experiences been in removing the last traces of hard/harsh sound sound from the CD63? The question assumes you've achieved that, so most will not be able to answer this.
I find Steve's player still just has a slight bit of grit to the upper midrange and treble. It has 13 extra regulators wired directly to their consumers, upgraded caps in most places, HDAM/muting/caps bypass and HA tin hat op-amps, C1 clock on DAC, a ~80VA transformer supplying DAC/decoder/servo analogue pins, the usual chassis damping.
All that remains are low noise regs, servo re-clock and maybe a better output stage. Thoughts anyone?
Simon
ps - when I used a CD63KI as my main player it didn't have this problem, but I seem to recall the output stage helped to cure it.
What have people's experiences been in removing the last traces of hard/harsh sound sound from the CD63? The question assumes you've achieved that, so most will not be able to answer this.
I find Steve's player still just has a slight bit of grit to the upper midrange and treble. It has 13 extra regulators wired directly to their consumers, upgraded caps in most places, HDAM/muting/caps bypass and HA tin hat op-amps, C1 clock on DAC, a ~80VA transformer supplying DAC/decoder/servo analogue pins, the usual chassis damping.
All that remains are low noise regs, servo re-clock and maybe a better output stage. Thoughts anyone?
Simon
ps - when I used a CD63KI as my main player it didn't have this problem, but I seem to recall the output stage helped to cure it.
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I know there are a few other little tweeks that could lift things.
Examples: C505 - the HF signal goes through a ceramic cap. That should be a silver mica or at least polystyrene I'd guess.
The 10k resistors in the output filter could be matched or 0.1% items used. I might try that on my current test machine. The polyester filter caps could be changed for polystyrene, polypropylene, teflon or silver mica.
I am going to try output coupling transformers too, and I know changing the naff old sockets lifts some dirt off the sound.
There are always more power supplies to add too.
Examples: C505 - the HF signal goes through a ceramic cap. That should be a silver mica or at least polystyrene I'd guess.
The 10k resistors in the output filter could be matched or 0.1% items used. I might try that on my current test machine. The polyester filter caps could be changed for polystyrene, polypropylene, teflon or silver mica.
I am going to try output coupling transformers too, and I know changing the naff old sockets lifts some dirt off the sound.
There are always more power supplies to add too.
And to help clean things a bit more there's always the coax runs, ground re-routing to a new star and shielding of the uprocessor chip.
Ahh, cheers guys, yep I know there are better players around but I kinda like messing with these! 🙂
Isn't the price/sound ratio very good with the right mods? Go to shop and check what you have for 150€... nothing at all! For that I have a twin clock, regs everywhere, DOS... not that bad for me. And spare parts for cheap.
The fact there is always better is true, if you d'ont mind the price 😉
A happy CD-43 owner.
The fact there is always better is true, if you d'ont mind the price 😉
A happy CD-43 owner.