Maybe have a look at:
Ray's Audio Page
then:
Using 3-pin regulators off-piste: part 1
and Simple Voltage Regulators Part 1: Noise - [English]
Thanks, Steve
Not if you leave the resistors in the circuit, which is a good idea as it isolates the servos drivers from each other. These form RC filters with the caps at the drivers.
But basically, if you use the insertion points I suggested, you definitely need the output caps.
Sure, and I certainly didn't mean to contradict you. I was just trying to make it easy, but I realise short cuts could cause issues in certain circumstances. It's best to understand things at least a little bit.
Simon
Hi guys, how are things over here?
Been away for a while for more important matters. Here's the result: 😀
Nice !!!
Congratulations
Ricardo
Her names are Mara Elise, born December 1st, 13:34.
I'm a happy man!!![]()
![]()
I disappear for a few days and look what I miss out on!!!
Congratulations Ray, she's so cute.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Glenn2
Not if you leave the resistors in the circuit, which is a good idea as it isolates the servos drivers from each other. These form RC filters with the caps at the drivers.
But basically, if you use the insertion points I suggested, you definitely need the output caps.
So, if I use S Power regs there, the hard work is done for me.
Is that cheating?
Steve 😀
Originally Posted by Glenn2
Not if you leave the resistors in the circuit, which is a good idea as it isolates the servos drivers from each other. These form RC filters with the caps at the drivers.
But basically, if you use the insertion points I suggested, you definitely need the output caps.
Sure, and I certainly didn't mean to contradict you. I was just trying to make it easy, but I realise short cuts could cause issues in certain circumstances. It's best to understand things at least a little bit.
Simon
So, if I use S Power regs there, the hard work is done for me.
Is that cheating?
Steve 😀
When I added those regs into my player, I removed the caps that are already there, soldered new ones to the legs of the regs and placed the regs in the holes vacated by the original caps.
Cheers, Lee.
Cheers, Lee.
When I added those regs into my player, I removed the caps that are already there, soldered new ones to the legs of the regs and placed the regs in the holes vacated by the original caps.
Cheers, Lee.
The plot thickens. It seems there are many paths to the holy grail. Some shorter than others.
Cheers Steve

New CD63 modifier
Hi,
I've been reading this thread for a while (took me ages) and am now ready to start modding my CD63. I've been in touch with Ray and bought Flea and DOS PCBs off him, along with lots of helpful advice.
The only experience I've had with electronics is I built a subwoofer power amp kit about 10 years ago. I did get it to work but as far as theory goes, I don't really have a clue.
My first mods will be basic to get used to using the soldering iron again. I want to remove the DC output caps and remove the muting transisters. I plan to build a muting circuit as per the circuit diagram in Brent's modlist (page 6). Firstly, do I need a circuit for each channel or just one for both? I haven't been able to find details as to how to wire it onto the CD63 board. Can anybody help with that?
Finally, congrats Ray on your new daughter. Enjoy her while you can. They grow up so fast!
Hi,
I've been reading this thread for a while (took me ages) and am now ready to start modding my CD63. I've been in touch with Ray and bought Flea and DOS PCBs off him, along with lots of helpful advice.
The only experience I've had with electronics is I built a subwoofer power amp kit about 10 years ago. I did get it to work but as far as theory goes, I don't really have a clue.
My first mods will be basic to get used to using the soldering iron again. I want to remove the DC output caps and remove the muting transisters. I plan to build a muting circuit as per the circuit diagram in Brent's modlist (page 6). Firstly, do I need a circuit for each channel or just one for both? I haven't been able to find details as to how to wire it onto the CD63 board. Can anybody help with that?
Finally, congrats Ray on your new daughter. Enjoy her while you can. They grow up so fast!
The Modslist in included in post #1.
However, you'll probably need your own. I've created a hugh spreadsheet to help me sort thru the volumes of info. I cut and paste info from this thread as well as from other sorces into that file. Pictures and diagrams are alway very helpful. I've organized the info into approx. 20 separate sheets. Sheet titles include: my mods list, recommended mods by the players, voltage regulators, opamps, LM317/337, reclocking, HDAM bypassing, Muting Circuits, To buy list, and on and on.
My spreadsheet started out fuzzy
. But as time goes on, it all become more clear🙂.
However, you'll probably need your own. I've created a hugh spreadsheet to help me sort thru the volumes of info. I cut and paste info from this thread as well as from other sorces into that file. Pictures and diagrams are alway very helpful. I've organized the info into approx. 20 separate sheets. Sheet titles include: my mods list, recommended mods by the players, voltage regulators, opamps, LM317/337, reclocking, HDAM bypassing, Muting Circuits, To buy list, and on and on.
My spreadsheet started out fuzzy

Nice !!!
Congratulations
Ricardo
I disappear for a few days and look what I miss out on!!!
Congratulations Ray, she's so cute.
Finally, congrats Ray on your new daughter. Enjoy her while you can. They grow up so fast!
Thanks guys, if any of you'd like to volunteer for one night, changing diapers, that would be great 😀.
Not much sleep last night




Ray
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Just installed 3 regs (2 at the DAC, 1 at servo) as well as some Oscons as decouplers. Sound at the moment is pretty horrible, but I expect this is due to the lack of break-in.
I don't have a remote for my cdp, so I only have the functions on the machine itself (no repeat!). Is there a way to automate the break-in? (program function, or another trick?)
Sorry for the non-diy question.
I don't have a remote for my cdp, so I only have the functions on the machine itself (no repeat!). Is there a way to automate the break-in? (program function, or another trick?)
Sorry for the non-diy question.
Break-in seems to be real but if the sound is horrible you will need more or better mods. A couple of regs on the decoder will help, as will regs on the servo driver chips (possibly more than anything else). A huge cap on the +10V rail smoothens the sound and improves it in every way (C813 I think). Schottky diodes on D801-D804 (output stage power supply) may also make the sound sweeter.
What is specifically wrong with the sound and what mods have you done so far?
Simon
What is specifically wrong with the sound and what mods have you done so far?
Simon
I can report that feeding QM01 from the same regs as Q105 works a treat in the player I have here. The sound opened up a little more and became calmer and more detailed too.
The negative rail on Q106 appears to be the only fussy one.
The negative rail on Q106 appears to be the only fussy one.
The Modslist in included in post #1.
My spreadsheet started out fuzzy. But as time goes on, it all become more clear🙂.
wow just realised that the thread is 4 years old!
also these links
Marantz CD63 modifications
acoustica.org.uk: modifying the Marantz CD63, part 1
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What is specifically wrong with the sound and what mods have you done so far?
With horrible I meant that it went worse since I put in the regs and caps on the DAC. It simply got a bit more grainy and the soundstage got less clear. Took the Power for these regs from U215 (on +12V rail).
The reg on the servo seems to make the sound a bit more consistent/stable, which I listened to before changing the DAC setup. Power stolen from U238
So far I've upgraded:
Raygulators on +/- 12V lines
Raygulator on servo
Raygulators on DAC
Changed opamps to LM4562
Bypassed HDAM
Put in Oscons on CD06/05, and Simics on CD12/13 (?)
Don't you mean U216 for +12V? If that's where you connected the DAC regs then I'd suggest removing that feed and instead powering the regs from U236 or U237 (+10V before Q811). By connecting digital power supplies to the output stage supply you are feeding noise onto the analogue section.
Next you'll want a couple of regs on the decoder, this will help to clean things up a bit more and it's easy to do. Then consider a reg on the HF amp (R505) just because it's so easy to do and should bring a little more clarity to the picture.
Simon
Next you'll want a couple of regs on the decoder, this will help to clean things up a bit more and it's easy to do. Then consider a reg on the HF amp (R505) just because it's so easy to do and should bring a little more clarity to the picture.
Simon
Simon,
I wanted to separate the Servo from the DAC, and ended up by the DAC and Opamps on the 12V rail. You think it's better to have Servo+DAC on on one rail u236/237/238?
Decoder and HF amp regs are the next steps...
I wanted to separate the Servo from the DAC, and ended up by the DAC and Opamps on the 12V rail. You think it's better to have Servo+DAC on on one rail u236/237/238?
Decoder and HF amp regs are the next steps...
I think it's wise to have all the new 5V regs running from that one spot. Later you will want to add at least one extra transformer and power supply and run them off that instead. The gains should be quite large.
Or if you want to try a separate supply for different circuits then tap the unregulated 20V from BEFORE the 7812 🙂
Or if you want to try a separate supply for different circuits then tap the unregulated 20V from BEFORE the 7812 🙂
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