Cheers Guys! Its definately pleasing on the ear now!😛
I've been looking on ebay and I found this
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110437420388
Bloody hell! He's hoping! 😱
I've been looking on ebay and I found this
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110437420388
Bloody hell! He's hoping! 😱
Slightly over-priced !!!!!
Around £150 -£200 would be the ballpark figure for one in excellent condition.
He is technically incorrect as well - cast iron drive? I thought it was alloy.
Andy
Around £150 -£200 would be the ballpark figure for one in excellent condition.
He is technically incorrect as well - cast iron drive? I thought it was alloy.
Andy
Seems he did not get an offer high enough !!
It did not sell and it has now been relisted at the same price.
Andy
Can't see it selling myself!!!!!🙄
Just on a side note, I've been playing with a CD50 and i've removed the 7220 and modded for NOS. The clock is connected directly to the decoder chip.
Its pretty good. Def a cheap way of getting performance.
I'd always recommend getting a decent reg and keeping the 7220 but, a worthy mod dependant on budget!
One word of advise, when doing the NOS mod. remove 7220 and reclock the decoder otherwise you'll leave the noisy 7220 on the rail polluting the supply and clock! Most places i've seen only talk about bypassing by linking the pins 😱 Also make sure you do the mute mod at the same time!
Only additional thing you'll loose is the digital out!
Just on a side note, I've been playing with a CD50 and i've removed the 7220 and modded for NOS. The clock is connected directly to the decoder chip.
Its pretty good. Def a cheap way of getting performance.
I'd always recommend getting a decent reg and keeping the 7220 but, a worthy mod dependant on budget!
One word of advise, when doing the NOS mod. remove 7220 and reclock the decoder otherwise you'll leave the noisy 7220 on the rail polluting the supply and clock! Most places i've seen only talk about bypassing by linking the pins 😱 Also make sure you do the mute mod at the same time!
Only additional thing you'll loose is the digital out!
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I've had a slight tinker with my CD650 again. Some of you may remember that I found I got some splashy sibilants on female vocals when I installed my Pass D1 I/V stage.
I pointed the finger at some nasty 10nF ceramic caps I used to filter the DAC's output on the D1. I snipped a leg of these today to disable them...
It doesn't stop it from working or make anything strange happen to I'm leaving them disconnected. It sounds clearer and brighter now, and the sibilant effect seems to have been reduced, if not completely cured.
Simon
I pointed the finger at some nasty 10nF ceramic caps I used to filter the DAC's output on the D1. I snipped a leg of these today to disable them...
It doesn't stop it from working or make anything strange happen to I'm leaving them disconnected. It sounds clearer and brighter now, and the sibilant effect seems to have been reduced, if not completely cured.
Simon
Attachments
Hi Simon,
Blimey that's looking quite a beast since I last looked.
What have you done to it so far?
Looking at the pictures, seperate PSUs (additional transformers), obviously pass D1 stage, sercal clock...
Cheers,
Phil
Blimey that's looking quite a beast since I last looked.
What have you done to it so far?
Looking at the pictures, seperate PSUs (additional transformers), obviously pass D1 stage, sercal clock...
Cheers,
Phil
Hi Phil,
I guess it's time for a reminder, for myself as much as anything as I'm forgetting now!
* Sercal C1 clock feeding DAC, decoder and filter
* Super Regulator feeding C1 clock
* Sercal S Power feeding -15V DAC
* Sercal S Power feeding +5V DAC
* Super Regulator feeding +5V digital filter
* Super Regulator feeding +5V decoder
* Sercal S Power feeding +30V output stage
* Sercal S Power feeding -30V output stage
* Pass D1 I/V output stage with Mundorf Supreme coupling caps
* 100VA toroid and power supplies for D1 output stage
* 30VA toroid and power supply feeding "some" other regs
* Silver over solid copper RCA sockets
* Os-con, Black Gate and Rubycon ZA decoupling
* Rubycon ZLH caps on mech board
* DAC changed for TDA1541A (and a good subtype apparently)
* 470pF? polystyrene cap on de-emphasis pins of DAC
* ceramic de-emp cap removed
* Filter changed for 7220PB version
* Player supported by hardwood cones
* Some smoothing caps upgraded and diodes for schottky types
* Bigger mains fuse (as it was popping due to extra load)
I think that's about it.
Simon
I guess it's time for a reminder, for myself as much as anything as I'm forgetting now!
* Sercal C1 clock feeding DAC, decoder and filter
* Super Regulator feeding C1 clock
* Sercal S Power feeding -15V DAC
* Sercal S Power feeding +5V DAC
* Super Regulator feeding +5V digital filter
* Super Regulator feeding +5V decoder
* Sercal S Power feeding +30V output stage
* Sercal S Power feeding -30V output stage
* Pass D1 I/V output stage with Mundorf Supreme coupling caps
* 100VA toroid and power supplies for D1 output stage
* 30VA toroid and power supply feeding "some" other regs
* Silver over solid copper RCA sockets
* Os-con, Black Gate and Rubycon ZA decoupling
* Rubycon ZLH caps on mech board
* DAC changed for TDA1541A (and a good subtype apparently)
* 470pF? polystyrene cap on de-emphasis pins of DAC
* ceramic de-emp cap removed
* Filter changed for 7220PB version
* Player supported by hardwood cones
* Some smoothing caps upgraded and diodes for schottky types
* Bigger mains fuse (as it was popping due to extra load)
I think that's about it.
Simon
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Needless to say it doesn't sound like a budget player anymore.
The sound is smooth, effortless, with large dynamics, good bass-weight and extension, a wide and deep image with sweet treble and smooth vocals.
I still have an emphasis on female sibilants, and I can't work out where it's coming from. I'm starting to wonder if it's the speakers and this CD player is merely able to excite the response better than others.
I know I need to try with headphones, and I will when I get off my bottom.
The sound is smooth, effortless, with large dynamics, good bass-weight and extension, a wide and deep image with sweet treble and smooth vocals.
I still have an emphasis on female sibilants, and I can't work out where it's coming from. I'm starting to wonder if it's the speakers and this CD player is merely able to excite the response better than others.
I know I need to try with headphones, and I will when I get off my bottom.
To do list
Here's a rough to-do list:
* C2 clock on all clockable pins
* S Power on -5V of DAC
* More power supplies and separation of voltage rails
* Better power supplies for output stage
* Possible increase of idle current on D1 stage
* Re-housing to a bigger space (for psus etc.)
* PPS decoupling caps around DAC
* DAC chip displaying some monarchy goodness
I think we can call it "finished" if I ever make all of those changes. I'd rather be working on a CD94 for the better mech and servo but for now this makes good music.
Simon
Here's a rough to-do list:
* C2 clock on all clockable pins
* S Power on -5V of DAC
* More power supplies and separation of voltage rails
* Better power supplies for output stage
* Possible increase of idle current on D1 stage
* Re-housing to a bigger space (for psus etc.)
* PPS decoupling caps around DAC
* DAC chip displaying some monarchy goodness
I think we can call it "finished" if I ever make all of those changes. I'd rather be working on a CD94 for the better mech and servo but for now this makes good music.
Simon
Hi Matthieu,
That depends how modded each machine is, but vs a moderately modified CD63 any CD player with this chipset will blow it out of the water in dynamics and more importantly texture of instruments such as piano and vocals. You do have to be prepared for a darker, less open sound, however.
Simon
edit: what I just said may be misleading, specifically I don't think a cheap and unmodified TDA1541 player will have dynamics over a CD63, but with both well-modified the TDA1541 player will be better
That depends how modded each machine is, but vs a moderately modified CD63 any CD player with this chipset will blow it out of the water in dynamics and more importantly texture of instruments such as piano and vocals. You do have to be prepared for a darker, less open sound, however.
Simon
edit: what I just said may be misleading, specifically I don't think a cheap and unmodified TDA1541 player will have dynamics over a CD63, but with both well-modified the TDA1541 player will be better
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As Simon said, it depends on the level of mods!
My CD960 is running pretty highly tuned now and I've yet to get my 63 anywhere near it! In my experience, most 63's have a false brightness about them (that doesn't include Brent's for sure although I've only heard his 63 in the workshop!!!) I was drawn towards the TDA1541 for its warmth. However most std players using this chip sound very 'muggy' out of the box including CD94 and CD960 which were the marantz and philips flagship 1 box models of the time.
If you are used to the sound of your 63, you may find the TDA sounding like its lacking in sharpness and detail. With much PSU work, uber clocking and I/V stage tuning, it will surpass a moderately tuned 63.
My 960 runs Burson for I/V with seperate PSU and 44000uF, I have 2 additional 5v PSU's with 15000uf each for the clock&TDA on 1 and the Decoder and filter on the other. There are 9 SPowers and 3 other low noise regs along with the various caps. Also a Sercal C2 clock (which is totally UBER) running independant clocking to everything I can!.
The sound is awesome, weighty accurate bass, uber smooth mids, silky detailed top. The sound stage is enormous. Everthing I've ever wanted in a player. I listened to some live accoustic guitar the other evening and I've never heard it sound "Live" before. There has always been something missing but not now.
So Yes you can get everything you want from one of these players!! As you know, I've still got a couple of 63's I play with, but short of the sort of investment of Brents player, I can't see that I'll surpass my CD960 with a CD63! But then thats my own biased oppinion! 🙂
My CD960 is running pretty highly tuned now and I've yet to get my 63 anywhere near it! In my experience, most 63's have a false brightness about them (that doesn't include Brent's for sure although I've only heard his 63 in the workshop!!!) I was drawn towards the TDA1541 for its warmth. However most std players using this chip sound very 'muggy' out of the box including CD94 and CD960 which were the marantz and philips flagship 1 box models of the time.
If you are used to the sound of your 63, you may find the TDA sounding like its lacking in sharpness and detail. With much PSU work, uber clocking and I/V stage tuning, it will surpass a moderately tuned 63.
My 960 runs Burson for I/V with seperate PSU and 44000uF, I have 2 additional 5v PSU's with 15000uf each for the clock&TDA on 1 and the Decoder and filter on the other. There are 9 SPowers and 3 other low noise regs along with the various caps. Also a Sercal C2 clock (which is totally UBER) running independant clocking to everything I can!.
The sound is awesome, weighty accurate bass, uber smooth mids, silky detailed top. The sound stage is enormous. Everthing I've ever wanted in a player. I listened to some live accoustic guitar the other evening and I've never heard it sound "Live" before. There has always been something missing but not now.
So Yes you can get everything you want from one of these players!! As you know, I've still got a couple of 63's I play with, but short of the sort of investment of Brents player, I can't see that I'll surpass my CD960 with a CD63! But then thats my own biased oppinion! 🙂
Well said Ian, I agree with all of that. Your player must be wonderful.
True that Brent's CD63 is very nice, and I have heard a couple of others that were really very good too (mine and a customer of Brent's). Only Brent's has a truly relaxed presentation, and that has come at a huge expense. A CD94 or similar can be relaxed (some may say like vinyl, but I'm not sure even vinyl can do what these can) with a more moderate spend.
Simon
True that Brent's CD63 is very nice, and I have heard a couple of others that were really very good too (mine and a customer of Brent's). Only Brent's has a truly relaxed presentation, and that has come at a huge expense. A CD94 or similar can be relaxed (some may say like vinyl, but I'm not sure even vinyl can do what these can) with a more moderate spend.
Simon
Thanks guys,
yep money will be minded in my case.
Only ears will tell CD40 ( maybe key 5V with a good reg, separated 5v around, key caps, best opamps or any DOS if simple to built, clock(s) and TX if needed ) vs CD-43 ( former 150€ DOSed Clocks'ed CD53 )... I'll try not to ask again the same questions while I'm waiting but I'm badly missing.. just a player right now! I can feel I'm already in love with the CD40, wich will answer best the slide guitar... music music I need soooommmmme
http://www.lifeinfife.co.uk/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/.pond/addicted.jpg.w300h392.jpg
yep money will be minded in my case.
Only ears will tell CD40 ( maybe key 5V with a good reg, separated 5v around, key caps, best opamps or any DOS if simple to built, clock(s) and TX if needed ) vs CD-43 ( former 150€ DOSed Clocks'ed CD53 )... I'll try not to ask again the same questions while I'm waiting but I'm badly missing.. just a player right now! I can feel I'm already in love with the CD40, wich will answer best the slide guitar... music music I need soooommmmme
http://www.lifeinfife.co.uk/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/.pond/addicted.jpg.w300h392.jpg