Hi nbrophy, how do you attached heatsink on top of TA2024? BTW, Arjen board are great. Love the input coupling caps multiple mounting holes. Fit most cap variety. But why this board is designed without considering of mounting thermal pad onto PCB. The chip is damm hot.
Re: Help modify Arjen T2024 MK1 board
I did not have a chance to really due an adequate before and after listen comparison. The end results is it is on par with my Sure Electronic T2024 with similar modifications.
The heatsink came with double sided tap already mounted. You can get the Heatsinks from http://myworld.ebay.com/wluk/.
gychang said:
I did not have a chance to really due an adequate before and after listen comparison. The end results is it is on par with my Sure Electronic T2024 with similar modifications.
Ipanema said:
The heatsink came with double sided tap already mounted. You can get the Heatsinks from http://myworld.ebay.com/wluk/.
it is singing!!
Here is my 1st DIY amplifier, tried several times and messed up.
I want to thank so many folks on this forum, particularly audio1st.
Got the basic mod but stopped short of soldering on the parts, such as input caps, etc. (not sure exactly which part I need...)
I soldered on on-off power, LED on, volume-pot, 4 way selector switch ( so can play from PC, ipod, CD, etc). Installed Arjen's SMPS and put in the tempoary case and it works.
When I catch my breath will put in the new case.
gychang
Here is my 1st DIY amplifier, tried several times and messed up.
I want to thank so many folks on this forum, particularly audio1st.
Got the basic mod but stopped short of soldering on the parts, such as input caps, etc. (not sure exactly which part I need...)
I soldered on on-off power, LED on, volume-pot, 4 way selector switch ( so can play from PC, ipod, CD, etc). Installed Arjen's SMPS and put in the tempoary case and it works.
When I catch my breath will put in the new case.
gychang
Attachments
How is it sounding Gy?
Are those Zigmahornets that you have it hooked up to?
Inquiring minds want to know.
Are those Zigmahornets that you have it hooked up to?
Inquiring minds want to know.
gurley123 said:
sounds excellent, with limited mod of the amp and the zigmahornet speakers, bass is excellent especially with the corner placement. Not for rocking roll but for us, great speakers IMHO.
gychang
Where from / what part did you use for the input selector?
If you get yourself a power stiffening cap, you can add it without doing any soldering by screwing it into the auxilery power inputs.
Removing the lowpass caps on the input and replacing the input caps is worthwhile. Perhaps later...
If you get yourself a power stiffening cap, you can add it without doing any soldering by screwing it into the auxilery power inputs.
Removing the lowpass caps on the input and replacing the input caps is worthwhile. Perhaps later...
AdamThorne said:
I use 3 pole 3-pos 3-pole Non-Shorting here locally:
http://www.action-electronics.com/switchesrotary.htm
if u want more inputs upto 6 use this:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062536
what part would you recommend for this newbie for "power stiffening cap" and "input caps"?. I do have this Dayton DMPC-3.3 3.3uF 250V Polypropylene Capacitor detailed below, is this going to work?
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=027-420
gychang
Thees Daytons look very good for input caps. Remove original input caps, bridge pins with small wire or large solder, then connect Daytons between screw input terminals and pot.
For power cap you can use 6800 - 10 000 uF x 16V electrolyte, you can screw it direct to amp boards's power terminal.
For signal cable from RCAs to switch and pot you can use better twisted pairs from cat5 cable, as short as possible, without unnecessary loops.
I usually use stiff cat5, with 1x0.5mm wire in each wire, before using in amp I twist pairs little tighter than original.
Main power wires to PS and power switch twist tightly too.
Zigis.
For power cap you can use 6800 - 10 000 uF x 16V electrolyte, you can screw it direct to amp boards's power terminal.
For signal cable from RCAs to switch and pot you can use better twisted pairs from cat5 cable, as short as possible, without unnecessary loops.
I usually use stiff cat5, with 1x0.5mm wire in each wire, before using in amp I twist pairs little tighter than original.
Main power wires to PS and power switch twist tightly too.
Zigis.
Zigis said:
thanks for tips:
1. Will try the Dayton's and report.
2. for power caps, will this work? http://www.bgmicro.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=11296
3. from RCAs to switch and pot, (do I twist, ground-hot from each red, white RCA's or in my case only hot is connected since the whole metal back is ground... do I twist both hot from each colored RCA's into one "ribbon"?.
I appreciate all the hot tips (pardon the pun).
gychang
this el cap is good enough, only you need to solder to it's legs short wires to connect to board.
For RCAs - one twisted pair for each socket (8 independent pairs in your case), one wire to hot, one wire to ground. You don't need to twist it all together.
Grounded connectors are not good idea, you can easy get ground loops problem.
Better use insulated RCAs in your final construction, something like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/20-Pcs-GOLD-RCA...QQptZLHQ5fDefaultDomainQ5f0QQsalenotsupported
Because you use 3 pole switch, you can switch each source's ground too, connect both stereo pair grounds together on switch leg, not on chassis side.
B.T.W. how do you plan to made these cylindric units in your sketch?
For RCAs - one twisted pair for each socket (8 independent pairs in your case), one wire to hot, one wire to ground. You don't need to twist it all together.
Grounded connectors are not good idea, you can easy get ground loops problem.
Better use insulated RCAs in your final construction, something like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/20-Pcs-GOLD-RCA...QQptZLHQ5fDefaultDomainQ5f0QQsalenotsupported
Because you use 3 pole switch, you can switch each source's ground too, connect both stereo pair grounds together on switch leg, not on chassis side.
B.T.W. how do you plan to made these cylindric units in your sketch?
Zigis said:
thanks for the numerous tips, these are valueable for newbie like me.
I bought the PVC pipe and plan to cut and paint to a metallic copper color, will see...
gychang
audio1st said:
just phenomenal picture, I appreciate your effort in be half of all those newbies. Your pictures are amazing, how do u create these masterpieces? I noticed "twist", I will indeed twist the wires for optimal build.!!
thanks, give me few weeks and will report back on the results.
gychang
Attachments
TA2024 in parallel mode
Maybe its of interest for some of you:
I am actually running for a test a TA2024 amp with both channels in parallel configuration.
So, despite of the warning message on the pcb, I just connected both negative outputs and both positive outputs.
No problem!
Why did I try this?
Because I want to try a higher damping factor / lower output impedance to drive my Goodmans 15" Axiom sub (built as open baffle with my office desk). But, driving a sub is definitely not an optimal TA2024 task...
Happy ears!
Franz
Maybe its of interest for some of you:
I am actually running for a test a TA2024 amp with both channels in parallel configuration.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
So, despite of the warning message on the pcb, I just connected both negative outputs and both positive outputs.
No problem!
Why did I try this?
Because I want to try a higher damping factor / lower output impedance to drive my Goodmans 15" Axiom sub (built as open baffle with my office desk). But, driving a sub is definitely not an optimal TA2024 task...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Happy ears!
Franz
gychang said:
What is the minimal number of poles a rotary switch should have when used as input selector? 2-pole or 3-pole?
2-pole would accommodate of the L and R channel but not the ground.
Thanks,
Nathan
audio1st said:
I just received mine from "Iwanabuy" here on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...STRK:MEWNX:IT&item=230354638632#ht_2630wt_940
I mistakenly thought it was the same as Sure board..., will have to look at the board carefully. Hopefully it will be similar enough to follow the recommendation on the Sure board.
gychang
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