Magura456 said:
Magura, do you have the chance to post a picture where I can see the connections ot the outboard clock, please? Thanks in advance 🙂
the power supply Is done with MSR 860 and BG STD 1000 - that Is best
what are best substitutions for the pcb BG
- elna
- rubycon za / zl
- nichicon
what are best substitutions for the pcb BG
- elna
- rubycon za / zl
- nichicon
oooh, your getting really close Erik!!
Looking great too. Hope it all sounds good as it loks when you fire it up!
Fran
Looking great too. Hope it all sounds good as it loks when you fire it up!
Fran
My humble transport
My thanks go out to Peter for inspiring me to build this transport.I never would have been able to afford to buy a commercial transport of this caliber.This unit paired with an Aya 2 dac is a match made in heaven.Organic sounding is the word that comes to mind while listening to this combo.Ican now listen to digital all day without fatigue.Hats of to all of you for sharing your knowledge.
My thanks go out to Peter for inspiring me to build this transport.I never would have been able to afford to buy a commercial transport of this caliber.This unit paired with an Aya 2 dac is a match made in heaven.Organic sounding is the word that comes to mind while listening to this combo.Ican now listen to digital all day without fatigue.Hats of to all of you for sharing your knowledge.
Attachments
Hi guys,
My version is sloooowly beginning to take shape and it definitely looks weird, I decided to use a piece of slate that was left from my turntable and it has a very strange shape for a transport 🙂 But I will need a few more weeks before I can post any pictures, I can only say that it sounds magnificent to me already!
In the mean time I was wondering - does anyone have a spare remote to sell? I am so silly that I forgot I needed it and now it is too late...
My version is sloooowly beginning to take shape and it definitely looks weird, I decided to use a piece of slate that was left from my turntable and it has a very strange shape for a transport 🙂 But I will need a few more weeks before I can post any pictures, I can only say that it sounds magnificent to me already!
In the mean time I was wondering - does anyone have a spare remote to sell? I am so silly that I forgot I needed it and now it is too late...
Taduosac: how did you put the text on the front plate?
Nikola Krivorov: Easiest solution is probably to use a universal remote. The original only has play/pause/FF/REW/stop. I found the codes easily on my universal remote.
Fran
Nikola Krivorov: Easiest solution is probably to use a universal remote. The original only has play/pause/FF/REW/stop. I found the codes easily on my universal remote.
Fran
Hi Fran,
I thought about it but couldn't find a suitable universal remote, can you please advise on what worked for you (model or brand or type of code or anything), it seems that no one here knows that JVC is making audio remotes and all the universal ones I found work with "anything but JVC" 🙁 Thanks ...
I thought about it but couldn't find a suitable universal remote, can you please advise on what worked for you (model or brand or type of code or anything), it seems that no one here knows that JVC is making audio remotes and all the universal ones I found work with "anything but JVC" 🙁 Thanks ...
Magura456 said:
Magura, what parts did you use on the psu feeding the clock? I mean at least the caps..
Thanks.
Lettering on front plate
Hello Fran:
I used rub on lettering I bought at an office supply store.I sand the aluminum with 150 grit followed by 220 with my orbital sander.The plate is then cleaned with rubbing alcohol and the letters rubbed on.I then spray the whole face plate with lacqer to protect the letters.The mechanism is supported on two brass bolts bolted to 20mm thick aluminum bar stock.Notice the white plastic block on the front of the laser frame.I used Eric's idea and tied fishing line to the sled,passed it through a hole in the plastic block and let it hang on a brass fishing weight.This modification took the slack out of the geartrain and things sound clearer and more focused.
Hello Fran:
I used rub on lettering I bought at an office supply store.I sand the aluminum with 150 grit followed by 220 with my orbital sander.The plate is then cleaned with rubbing alcohol and the letters rubbed on.I then spray the whole face plate with lacqer to protect the letters.The mechanism is supported on two brass bolts bolted to 20mm thick aluminum bar stock.Notice the white plastic block on the front of the laser frame.I used Eric's idea and tied fishing line to the sled,passed it through a hole in the plastic block and let it hang on a brass fishing weight.This modification took the slack out of the geartrain and things sound clearer and more focused.
