FS: Discrete Dynamics Class A/B Power Amp modules

I have few modules for a very good Class AB amp. It's designed by my friend Aniket also a member here. The stereo amp has onboard power supply and protection circuit and comes with 2 X PCB mounted heatsinks. Just add a case, transformer and other hardware. It's almost plug n play.
I have two power options 100W/channel and 75W/channel
BJTs used for 75W Toshiba 2SC5200N/A1943N
Power caps , 4 X 6800uf, 50W

Bjts for 120W: Toshiba 2SC5949/A2121
Power caps , 4 X 10000uf 63W

below are the specs of our stereo amp:

Power output : 70~120W into 8 ohms, 110~180W into 4 ohms.(continuous avg per channel.)
THD : <0.03 % at rated power 20-20000Hz, 0.003 % @ 1kHz half power
Signal to noise ratio : 112dB
Frequency response : 3Hz-250kHz.(-3dB)
Input impedance : 25k ohms
Input sensitivity : 1V rms for rated power
Damping factor : 200, @ 8 ohms, 20-500Hz
Transformer for75W : 30-0-30, 300 9-0-9V AC for protect
Transformer for 120W : 40-0-40V AC, -500VA, 9-0-9V AC for protect
PCB size Power Amp : 280mm X 120mm

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

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Prices
75W/ channel $110
120W/channel $135
Shipping $20 by Registered post,
The modules will have all onboard parts, including 2 X heatsinks, connectors, fuses etc

Regards
Sachin

quick guide needed for a new venue install

here is the jist of the story
my nephew inherited an old building and he is a band manager ,he used to do a lot of studio recording and have asked a few friends to help him but they don't know what to set up for a small live sound space ,so he asked me as his mommy will pay for the costs and i am dragged in this because she feels like sonny will be ripped off.
the space has around 12 ft ceilings with wooden rafters,room size is about 70 x 30 ft
the ceiling is a bit higher around the planned stage area(15 ft)
his idea is to have a very high quality sound system fairly full range and mommy is willing to spend a bit(75k to 100k) so son can have a new career as a club owner
i can help a bit with the interior and some speaker choice so any turnkey ideas welcome
p.s he feels like he wants a vintage tonal sound
so please recommend
foh speakers(i love multi cells )
subs
amps
stage mixer (maybe a 5 pc band)
sound board maybe 8 channels(they would like to do some live recording streaming)
snakes
monitors
mikes
lighting
wireless options etc
any help appreciated
thankx
my background is engineer and i did lots of live sound in the eighties and some studio mastering experience

Coax input deq2496

Have anyone add coax input to the deq2496.

I think it would be possible to tap into the ak4114 RX0/RX1 input for the coax in. Refer to page 22 on ak4114 datasheet for the optical receiver input (with 470R) which is same as the optical circuit in deq2496.
It looks it I can solder a coax wire on input side of the 470R resistor (connected to the RX1 pin of ak4114) and put a 75R across the coax wire and put a BNC at the wire end and I am done.

Anybody done this yet?


...chuck

Single18"sub

Quite a while ago I built a single 18" sub to use as a drum sub, with a single stage monitor on top, for drummers in a live situation. Basically to reinforce kick drum for the drummer. I've recently pulled it out and replaced the 18" blown driver with a 1000W driver. I also bought a 1000W, 125Hz, low pass filter on Amazon. Question, what is the best way to provide a simple, speaker protection scheme to keep from blowing up the 18" driver. I really am looking for simple. There is quite a bit of DSP built in to the amp I'll be driving it with, which I will use, but if I could maybe add something to the low pass filter that would be great.

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06Kicker ZX1000

I have been following this thread here: Kicker 083ZX1000.1 output trouble but have only had to repair maybe 3 or 4 kickers so my expierience is next to nill with these.

I have a zx1000 dated 6-1-06. I dont believe this one has a 0 ohm jumper between speaker ground and Ground terminal if that helps.

I have .98 amps when powered and relay engages. It clicks once.

I dont believe the protection light is working but I do see a square wave on the the protect pin.

I have 1.5Vdc between speaker - and speaker +

I do have 1 fet per bank installed because Q105 and Q107 were shorted so I pulled Q106 and put it in Q105.

This amp came with FQA44N30 and I dont have any. The closest I have is FDA69N25 and was unsure if those would work for testing. The gate charge, input capacitance, and rds on were a hair lower than the FQA44n30.

The inductor got so hot that the solder shorted to the drain of that bank. I have a photo attached.

I was seeing drive from the Class d control board. Only seeing 1.6V from ground on control board to R122.

Lifting D7 did absolutely nothing for me.

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NEW RELEASE: VPM-1 Volume Pedal Mod for Ernie Ball VP Jr

Vid: YouTube
CHICAOG, March 16, 2020 – They say it’s the “Mother Of All Volume Pedal Mods.” Zeppelin Design Labs in Chicago has released a makeover mod for your Ernie Ball VP Jr. Pull out the scratchy pot and broken string and replace them with a magnet and a Hall effect sensor. Together they detect treadle movement without using any mechanical parts. A microcontroller uses the position data to control a pair of optocouplers to alter the volume of the audio signal, all while retaining a pure analog signal path. This mod also buffers the audio signal and offers up to 14dB of gain.

You can build the mod from scratch from an affordable DIY kit (intermediate soldering skills required); or get the mod assembled and ready for you to install into your Ernie Ball VP Jr with not much more than a screw driver; or send in your pedal and the folks at Zeppelin will mod it for you.

“The string in my Ernie Ball once broke in the middle a show,” says Brach Siemens, designer of the VPM 1. “I promised myself that night that someday I’d develop a solid-state solution – I never want that to happen again.”

By controlling the all-analog signal path digitally, Zeppelin Design Labs was able to incorporate some incredible features into this mod:
• Choose from five different volume taper curves: linear, two logarithmic curves, and two reverse logarithmic curves.
• Set the maximum- and minimum-volume points to any position along the treadle movement for fully custom response.
• Reversible treadle action.
And if all that is not enough for you, there are even two optional upgrades:
• The Expression upgrade equips your VPM-1 to act as an expression control, compatible with a wide range effects pedals.
• The Stereo upgrade can be configured for either traditional stereo mode or panning configuration.

The DIY kit starts at just $69. The pre--assembled mod starts at $120. Full service mods start at $165.
The VPM-1 is available direct from Home - Zeppelin Design Labs, and also on Reverb, Etsy and Amazon.

zeppelin_design_labs_vpm-1_3_4a.jpg

FS: power supplies

Twisted Pear Audio Placid HDBiPolar (completely build and tested, fully operational, set to +/- 15 VDC) with toroidal power transformer - $100

IFi iPower 5 VDC linear wall wart power supply, like new, in box - $25

K&K Audio 5VDC, 2 A, 12 watt power supply, completely built fully tested and operational - $50

DIYINHK LT3042 dual power supply, 3.3 or 5 VDC, completely built and functional, one cmc bypassed, the other removed, it sounds better that way - SOLD

DIYINHK TPS7A4700 dual power supply, 3.3 or 5 VDC, completely built and fully functional - SOLD

Toroid transformer for either of the DIYINHK boards above - $20

My soldering is perfect - 40+ years of experience, military and AT&T/Bell Labs trained.

Plus actual shipping, but will combine shipping, prefer US.

Filament transformers - the lesser of two evils

I am using Rod Coleman's regulators in my 6J5 input 45 output parafeed headphone amplifier. The 6J5 will have a cascode MOSFET CCS load, the 45 will have an EL83 pentode CCS load (ri of the EL83 ~260K).

I am trying to decide if I should use dedicated transformers for the 45 filaments, i.e., the Hammond 266L12, or include the two 6.3V / 5A windings on the custom mains transformer I am having made by Sowter UK.

Talking with Rod, if the windings are on the Sowter transformer, I do run the risk of having rectifier noise from the raw DC supplies (also Rod's design) coupled to the B+ supply and having it appear on the plates of the tubes.
Given both input and output tubes have active plate loads, PS noise rejection should be good (especially the 6J5), this is my preferred route. So...

Option A: include two 6.3V / 5A windings on my Sowter mains transformer and trust that my EL83 pentode CCS will reject the raw DC rectifier noise on the 45 (the MOSFET CCS on the 6J5 should take care of it no problemo)

Option B: mount the Hammond transformers under the chassis, possibly subjecting my internal components to their sizable magnetic fields - would try to minimize by optimizing the internal layout

I don't have the experience to say which of these two options is best, would love to hear from those who do, thank you.

maxon motor controller for turntable

hi

I'm building a DIY TT and I'm looking for a high quality DC motor controller.
Mark Kelly's versions aren't that easy to get hold of. Hagtech is developing one but I don't know how it's coming along. It shouldn't be to difficult to build for a novice eather...

Came across Maxons LSC 4-Q-DC Servoamplifier and ADS_E 4-Q-DC Servoamplifier.
Would these (or other Maxon stock controllers) be a good choice for a TT)

Hope someone can help (I'm planning to use a Maxon (type?) motor and belt drive.The platter will be aprox 15kg)

best regards

Do I have a ground loop in my preamp ?

Hello.
I will add a second channel on my mic preamp.
I want to wire it like that because I don't want to use 2 input transformers (pricey).

I don't know if I created a ground loop, between the "normal channel" and the "low channel" ?
Is it a good way to do it ? If you have any suggestions on a better way please feel free.

Thank you.


EDIT : Do you know if using an ECC81 will be lower noise as the input stage than ECC83 ?


The schematic :
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Isolation transformer construction

Hi everyone,

i was given two cheap, but identical 650VA ups units with broken batteries.

While salvaging parts, it occured to me that i may be able to make an isolation transformer, using the two identical transformers back to back.

I know it won't be able to supply a lot of power, but i'am ok with around 100 VA, just to be able to scope mains stuff without blowing up everything. The transformers look like about 150 VA each.

Now, each primary has the following taps: 0V, 185V, 220V, 255V.

The secondaries read 7.1V, 0V, 7.1V (center tapped), and there is also a low power separete 19V winding.

I will use the casing of one of the units to enclose everything, as it already has a mains power cord and a convinient mains outlet, and even a fuse holder!

Any ideas how to wire them up for testing?

I suspect that i don't need the 0V center tap of the secondaries, and i should be carefull with the 19V secondary polarity.

Of course i'am going to test it with incandescent lamps of 25, 40, 60, and 100 Watts to see if the voltages and the temperatures are ok.

Any ideas greatly appreciated!

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Relays with delay

Dear All,

I’m struggling to get the circuit below working after making some updates. My main purpose is to have both relays switching after a delay. The delay has been build around a BC547C transistor and a small delay network.

The problem that I have is that only the Omron rely is switching, the Zettler is not working at all. When measuring the delay circuit it is working and supplying the 5V towards both relay coils.

I’ve been thinking about the current supplied by the BC547C, can it be that the current possible to flow is too limited to get both relays switching? As I’m using two different relays with slightly different coils the Omron works first.

Hope somebody can troubleshoot my diagram. Please forgive the simple way of drawing as I’m not educated in electronics but learning by doing and reading a lot on the internet.

Relay types are:
- Zetler AZ822–2C–5DSE
- Omron G5V-2-H1

Thx in advance!

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Early Marshall DSL50 JCM2000 issues

I have an early version of the DSL50 jcm2000 amp to which there is no reference anywhere...printed out the schematics I could find but there are too many differences in denomination of the components and wiring lugs. Anyways I'll state my findings, initial problem is that the channel switching doesn't work at all, the LED doesn't turn on either...so basically its stuck on the clean channel. I tried powering up the amp just to see if it was working at all...it does sound very flimsy and bad so powered off and proceeded to do some tests. HT, heaters and bias voltage seem to be ok. It's just the LV that seems dead. So tracking from the PT LV lugs I'm getting around 21vAC through to the rectifier diodes D6, D7, D8 and D9. On the other sides of D8 and D9 I'm getting around -58vDC and on the other side of D6,D7 I'm getting 0. So I replaced them but still the same readings.
So my question at this point is... am I getting the right AC readings off the PT? If so, since the amp has obviously been tampered with in the past by someone else, did they solder the PT LV wires to the right lugs on the board? W9, W10 and W11 are the lugs used on the board but on the schematic these lugs are denominated W11, W12 and W13. There are other proven factory differences between the board and the earliest schematics so for that side of things I think everything is fine. The other difference I noticed are C6 and C37 are on the board both electrolytic (they have been replaced with 10uf 450v) which I guess is incorrect as C37 on the schematic states 47uf 63v so again too many inconsistencies to be able to rely on any versions of the schematic.

thanks for any help at all

Pre-amp to feed my JLH Monoblocks please?

As it says....on the hunt for a pre-amp to go with my JLH Monoblocks project!
In the short term, I still have my Crimson Pre that I assembled from a kit back in the 80's.
Seems to be so much choice out there, not sure what to focus on.😕
I'm hoping that I might get some help in narrowing the field somewhat!!
Whether it be an assembly job, from a kit of parts....or selecting suitable PCBs and going for a straight build...I'm up for a challenge🙂
BTW...Don't have access to a scope...but have a good DMM (FWIW!)


Any pointers would be much appreciated.

High speed headphone apmlifier

Hello all,

I have started to build this HPA maybe with built in USB DAC and whammy style CRCRC PSU with 24V regulators (post 82) - List of best DIY Headphone Amplifiers

Also, I have attached my LT spice schematic.
I have a question on how to better match transistors - by pairs as suggested by W. Marshall Leach if its not possible to match all of them? I have various manufacturers BC 550/560 - Fairchild, Philips, ON - but pnp and npn have different Hfe...
q1,q3 - q5,q6 , - q2-q4 ?

thank you!

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Need a Preamp for XA25

Is the KORG B-1 Balanced Preamp a good match for the XA 25?

Does anyone know the cost for parts and suitable chassis?

Can this model employ the 6NS7 tube?

Would there be a remote possibility?

If a man knew his limitations and looked to hire an experienced
craftsman to assemble the piece, is this a flat fee agreement typically?

Thank you for your expertise!!

Resistor for B+ soft start

Hello,
I have to change (eliminate) a delay circuit of a B+ supply for a simple resistor with a manual switch. The delay is not working properly and I have tried already to start up the amp with two 50W 100 ohm resistors in series, switching it off the line after a few seconds. Sound quality is way better than with the delay circuit in the system. The resistor is between the 220V AC line and the primary of the B+ transformer, which has a secondary with 630V/250mA-0-630V/250mA. It is used with a full wave tube rectification, with two 5R4WGY tubes. It has a choke input that makes the PS draw a very large load when it starts up, which is too much for the tubes, hence the need for a soft start.

I would leave it like this if it was not for one thing: if I don't switch the resistor off the circuit it gets very hot. I can't recall how to calculate the needed rating power of the resistor. The 200 ohm resistance seems to do a perfect job for a soft start after about 10 seconds. Can someone help?

Thanks!

521 & other open baffle experiments

:cop: This discussion has been split from this thread Aino gradient - a collaborative speaker project
Ah, when I met SL in 2013, he naturally encouraged me to do dipole woofers too! LX521 was new then and I also knew of gainphile's work. I said no thanks, I don't have enough room for dipole woofers. And I haven't changed my mind. As well I have a huch that real radiation pattern wouldn't be dipole anyway, 20-200Hz so close to the floor and walls. Wuold that really be any better? I guess I'll never really know...

A friend has double 12" woofers in H frame like SL Orion. They sound good in his room and he plays louder than I. He has set tile bricks on them and cone movement looks really wild, but they don't vibrate much. W frame with 90deg helps a lot for LX521, but vertical slot would be totally force-cancelling. That's what I would make.

Gainphile: S19 4-Way Dipole Radiator
Thanks for that.

Actually, I think it is indeed dipole into the bass -- haven't measured but walked around with <100Hz tones, and there's a distinct level reduction when listening at the sides of my Orion 3.2 as well as the M-frame dual 10" dipoles I'm experimenting with.

A local buddy who's an active member here agrees with me that there's something special about the sound of dipole bass -- more natural, somehow, than any of other bass loadings, even after all the EQ boost needed to compensate for the dipole cancellation. It just sounds more realistic -- better than serious implementations of ported, twin coupled cavity bass, sealed, aperiodic, TL -- if memory serves correctly. (I haven't heard serious horn-loaded bass; that might be even better.)

Anyway, I've decided to make a pair of Linkwitz / Gainphile W-frame bass boxes. Move the Dayton subs (same ones gainphile used, incidentally) to the new bass bin or try 10" SBAcoustics I've had on hand for ages. (But I haven't given up the idea of cloning your Aino gradient, either. 😉 )

One thing about Gainphile's W-frame: It makes sense to me to keep the volume in the front and back "chambers" about the same, but that's not what he has done; the back-facing openings appear about double the size of the front one. He's obviously happy with it.

In contrast, Linkwitz's dipole sub is much closer to having similar volume in the front & back "chambers".

d_woof1.gif


Anyone have any thoughts on this?

Brand New Pair SB Acoustics Satori 6.5" Woofer Driver MW16P-4 MW165DC-08N36-DA00

I am selling a Brand New Pair SB Acoustics Satori 6.5" Woofer Driver MW16P-4 MW165DC-08N36-DA00 in the Original Boxes.

Asking $300.

I am the original owner and bought them from an authorized dealer a few years ago.

They are never mounted them or hooked up and factory perfect in every way!

Too many projects on hands and no time for speaker building so I am offering them up for others to build.

12AX7/12AU7 phonos (AN/Croft)

I have cloned the entry Croft Acoustics phono stage with two 12AX7 and a simpel mosfet series regulator. PSU is in seperate box. I was dissapointed with the sound It was very muffled and unclear.
Then I reused the psu, and build the phono stage L2 from AudioNotes preamp kit with a 12AX7/12AU7:
Audio Asylum Thread Printer

Same story It also sounds very muffled, undynamic and unclear. I have not used audiofile grad components, but those in the croft was also standard components.
I see that It is very high impedance circuits, the first tube have to drive the RIAA filter and also the grid of the next tube through many hundreds of Kohm is´nt that a problem?

Tubes are new EH types. 12V heater supply is simple with LM7812 regulator.
Riaa curve of the Croft clone was meassured by a friend with a setup for that. It was not very precise but quite ok I belive.
I have tried to drive It with step transformer and an active stepup with same result.
I have been through the circuits severel times and belive it is build correctly.
I would like to have som input from more experinced builders?

Port Size/Length with Multiple Ports

I am trying to design my first loudspeaker project inspired by SVS subwoofers, but I find their port configuration does does not match the theory I have been told. What am I missing? If I try to follow WinISD blindly it is going to make my ports multiple times longer than what I see in a real life SVS. Now just to keep things simple, lets not talk about my design, but just try to apply the theory to the SVS PB16-Ultra.

I am told the relationship between the various quantities that allow one to tune a port in a sub-woofer enclosure are described by the Helmholtz equation:
Code:
f=v/(2*pi)*sqrt(A/(VL)) where
v is the speed of sound 340 meters/second
pi is the constant 3.14159
A is the effective cross sectional area of the port
V is the volume of the enclosure
L is the length of the ports

I am told that the effective diameter of multiple ports is found by:
Code:
d=sqrt(d1^2+d2^2+...+dn^2) where
d is the effective area
di is the diameter of the i'th port

In the SVS PB16-ULTRA (see a cutaway here and official webpage here ) to solve the above equation we need the following information:
  • Port Diameter: The subwoofer has three 3.5 inch (.089 m) diameter ports
  • Volume: The subwoofer has external dimensions 25" (H) x 21.7" (W) x 28.3" (D), lets say that 30% of that is the ports, walls, and driver, so that would leave 0.176 m^3 of air volume.
  • Port Length: Eyeballing the cut-away from the video I would guess that the port is about 20% longer than the longest dimension of the enclosure. Lets call that 28.3" * 1.2 = 0.86 meters

Solving for effective area we get:
Code:
d=sqrt(3 * .089 ^2)
d=0.154 m

Solving for the tuning frequency:
Code:
f=v/(2*pi)*sqrt(A/(VL)) 
f = 340 m/s /(2*pi) * sqrt(3.14159*(0.154 m /2)^2/(0.176 m^3 * 0.86 m))
f = 18.98 hertz
That seems a bit high for something that is trying to extend down to 14 hertz. Perhaps if we change the length by adding some port end corrections
Code:
L'  = L + N * K * d/2 where
L' is the effective port length
L is the physical port length
N is the number of flared ports, in this case 2
K is the coefficient of a flared port, in this case assume 0.85
d is the effective diameter

L' = 0.86m + 2 * 0.85 * 0.154m /2 
L' = 0.99 m


f= v/(2*pi)*sqrt(A/(VL')) 
f = 340 m/s /(2*pi) * sqrt(3.14159*(0.154 m /2)^2/(0.176 m^3 * 0.99 m))
f = 17.7 hertz
17.7 still seems pretty high. I find that I have to tune down near 14Hz in my design that's quite a lot lower.

Lets also consider port velocity (equation is from here, constant differ to convert to metric units):
Code:
V = 0.00225 * sqrt(W) / (f * (d/2)^2) where
v = port air velocity in mach (e.g. % of speed of sound)
W = acoustic power in watts
F = frequency
d = effective diameter in meters
I most often see people suggest that v must be less than 0.1 and should ideally be closer to 0.05. Solving for the SVS subwoofer we need an estimate for W. Lets assume the sensitivity of the driver is 98 db per 1W @ 1 Meter, and its rated electrical power is 1500 RMS.
Code:
 W = We * 10^((S – 112)/10) where
W is the acoustic power in watts
We is the electric power in watts
S is the sensitivity in db per 1W @ 1 Meter
Solving the above
Code:
 W = 1500 watts * 10^((98 – 112)/10) 
W = 59.7 watts
Solving for velocity at the tuning frequency I would expect and the one I calculated above:
Code:
V = 0.00225 * sqrt(W) / (f * (d/2)^2)

for f = 17.2 hertz 
V = 0.00225 * sqrt(59.7 watts) / (17.2 hertz * (0.154 m/2)^2)
V = 0.17

for f = 14 hertz 
V = 0.00225 * sqrt(59.7 watts) / (14 hertz * (0.154 m/2)^2)
V = 0.21

These are clearly way too high to be realistic. They would be chuffing constantly if the air speed was ~20% the speed of sound. What gives? Perhaps there is something about having three ports that is not captured by this equation?

  • Locked
FS- Pair Coral Holey-Basket Fullrange drivers

This is a pair of Coral Holey-basket fullrange drivers from the 60's. These are marked Sony and are 8 ohms. I have had many pairs of these over the years and these are absolutely the nicest pair I have seen...

They are 8 ohms and sound great. Alnico magnets and nice soft surrounds.

These are great drivers and quite hard to find.

$95 plus shipping. Paypal or bank transfer. Ships from Vienna, Austria.

Thanks

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Yamaha P2100 - Noise on one channel

Hi everyone, I'm new here and need some help repairing my P2100 amp.

Random noise (attached) appeared only on one channel. Its level is constant and does not depend on volume pot position, but I noticed, that after switching off (breaking the mains) and while the sound path is still "on" for 5-6 seconds until the total shutdown - there is no noise and audio signal is clear as it should be. First guess was - one of the diode pairs DC10-1/DC10-1R, so replaced them both to 1N4007s paired accordingly, but nothing changed...:mafioso:

...any ideas? Appreciate any help :up:


Thanks a lot!

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vertical layout for a tube amp

Dear builders,

I have been playing with the idea of building a tube amplifier on a vertical plan. PT and OPT's can be bought cheaper, without covers (they sit on the lower floor, inside the case), tubes on top, the foot-print would be smaller. Would be valid for a pair of monoblocks or a stereo amp. An integrated amp would maybe have the input module and tubes at the back, the power tubes at the front (or the other way but then input cables are longer from back-sockets).

I have seen a few examples online :

I'm not really trying to re-invent the wheel and if it's a stupid idea go ahead and explain why... I'm always learning. I have a Tubelab SSE amp that needs casing and I'm wondering if this would be doable. So far I have built two Millett's engineering amps and their footprint is on the large side of what people see as ok.

I'm new!

Hey everyone, I'm new to the forum. I found this site because I run a blog on keyboards and someone asked a question about cleaning a PCB. That actually inspired me to write an article about the dangers of using acetone.

Anyway, this site is cool and there's lots of interesting topics here. I plan to stick around and maybe answer some questions from time to time.

Thanks for having me.

Anthony.

Hypex Fusion and Omnimic

The Hypex Fusion thread is so huge, I can't tell if this question has been answered...

Is the Omnimic compatible with the Hypex Fusion amp? I can't seem to get the HFD software to recognize my Omnimic.

I have a vague memory of something I read in one of these threads which discussed this issue... ?

BTW, the (very) preliminary listening with my new FA253 has gone really well. The HFD software is easy to use. The build quality of the Fusion amps are very impressive.

Better than Topping TP-60 ?

I recently heard a TP-60, and was impressed. I prefer DIY, kits, or assembled boards though, and I need a bit more power if possible. I'm just wondering if there is an option which allows me to have even better than the TP-60, in a DIY form ?

I just fell in love with Tripath sound, and want to build a simple amp. Thanks for any help.

PS; The Tripath FAQ Wiki thread would not work for me.

USB iFi Ipurifier 3

USB iFi Ipurifier 3 - SOLD

This is the version 3 of the iFi IPurifier3 for USB audio.
Volumio web site recommends this filter between RPi or else and DAC.
Only 1 hour use.
Included with 2 USB 6 inches cables.
Bargain Price : 75$ + shipping

Fab

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REVOX B226 stopped working

Hi to everybody , My CD player Revox B226 has topped reading CDs .
When I try to play a CD it spins for a second and it stops.
I read all the forums available but I noticed that my CD player is a little different than the one described by the guys in the Forums.
Someone suggested to change 5 X 16V 33micro capacitors. But I don't have them .
I attach some photos, can someone helping me to find the value of the capacitor in the laser area? Thanks in advance

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Onkyo M-508 Meter circuit problems

Hello, I have been trying to repair the watt/power Meters on an Onkyo M-508.

The driver circuit is identical to the M-504 (see attached schematic), which there has been a few threads on, eg. https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/328277-onkyo-m504-meter-malfunction.html.

The problem is, that the meters only give very little/low response: When I feed in a 1 Khz test signal corresponding to 12,65 V output, it should be possible to calibrate the Meters to 0db. But they only go up to about -40db.

Both meters do move though (and in a similar manner), and they both have the correct DC resistance out of circuit. So the fault seems to be in the rather complicated driver circuit.

When I first started fault finding, both Q601 and Q602 were dead. The originals are SK246, which I couldn't get, so I have replaced them with SK117.

Q604 and Q605 are also new, same type as original.

I have also replaced the main driver chip Q603 (TA7318P). I first tried ordering the new devices from China, but those didn't work at all. Clone/fake chips with different pinout maybe? But I finally got hold of a new original Toshiba from England.

I have also tried replacing the opamps, but that didn't help.

So the status is now:
Power supply and rail voltages are all good:
+/- 21V on the opamps, and 17V for the TA7318P.
All the check voltages given on the schematic are also correct (or very near), except the Bases of Q604 and Q605, were I have 0,65V instead of the -3.8V shown (!)

For the Left channel, I can follow the 1 Khz test signal from input, to the Gate of Q601 (3,1VAC), and on through the TA7318P, but then the signal seems to "disappear" after the trimpot R615!

I have had the trimmer out and checked that it works and measure correctly, and the 601 relay works fine (has continuity when closed).

So something appears to be attenuating the signal somewhere between the TA7318 and the Meters, but I can't for the life of me figure it out 😕

Logically, it must be a common point or component for L and R, as both Meters have the exact same issue. Might just be a "stupid little detail", since the Meters do move some, and the Meter trim pots work, and I can see that the meters have a dependency (as they should).

I would greatly appreciate your help, since I am all out of ideas..
Thanks!

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Help calculating TL

I have a pair of 3WC with SB23NRXS45-8 bass elements. I am really happy with these speakers overall except for the bass (it is not all bad but I think it could be improved). I attribute the weaknesses to the BR design (but I might be wrong). I prefer the sound from a sealed enclosure and I would like to convert my 3WC to fully passive XO. I would therefor like to try a transmission line arrangement for some added efficiency (compared to going sealed).

I do not have access to the legendary spreadsheets by Martin J. King so I have made my initial simulations with HornResp. I would like to keep the enclosure as compact as possible and therefor the line as short as possible. I started out with a MLTL but it looks as if a tapered TL might be as good. HornResp is very capable but not the most intuitive simulator and I have a really hard time to dial in the optimum values for S0, SL, line length and especially the driver offset. I would therefor value second opinions from the ones used to simulate and build TL speakers (this will be my first TL build). What would be a good TL for the SB23NRXS45-8?

FS: Burson Soloist (modified - powered by SilentSwitcher)

For sale: Burson Soloist headphone amp
Asking price 350EUR
Shipping: Preferably inside EU (Unit weight is ca 4.5kg (10lbs), so it could cost upto 30EUR)

I upgraded a Burson Soloist Headphone amp with Jan Didden's Silent Switcher. The unit can now be powered from 5V battery bank or from a 5V AC/DC wall supply (I can include a suitable MeanWell One). Power need is about 1.75A/5V and thats constant due to class-A design of the circuit.

The comparison measurement (done with REW and RTX6001) to the Innerfidelity review shows the benefits of new power supply. Mains related peaks are basically gone.

The unit has a good sound and the gain settings of 1.1dB / 7.1dB and 11.5dB are useful to match the amp to various heaphones. All the input switching and gain switching functions work just as in original design.

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Crossover comparison

I was at a clients house and he was recovering some cat damaged speakers and I snapped a pic of the crossover sitting on the floor (mainly because I noticed a loose inductor wire). I was in the midst of refurbishing some speakers I built 12 years ago, and thought the crossover comparison interesting.
Michael

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Dual Accuton C51-6-286 2" midrange, D'Appolito, L-R Series x-over

This is the next phase of my ambitious 7 driver, 2 passive radiator, 4-way, D'Appolito build.

The Mundorf AMT 25CS2.1-R measurements went well. Let's see if I can mesh them to the Accutons. I'll need a lot of help figuring out how to physically time align them. But first some base measurements.

Picture 1) Erik, this is for you. How's that for a makeshift thrown together test baffle? No laughing please!

Pic. 2) first frequency response measurement, straight out of the box. Single 68uF safety

Pic. 3) distortion. At first glance, I'd say usable range is 800Hz to 5KHz. There's a bump in D3 at 7K, and a bump in D2 at 9K.

Pic.4) FR with two 22uF safeties. This will likely be close to the value used for the final crossover. The driver is well behaved, so I started at 400Hz.

Pic. 5) CSD. From 1K to 5K it's pretty nice. I have something going on with my Focusrite, ignore the bump at 20KHz. The default range of Arta is -25dB. This doesn't tell us enough.

Pic. 6) CSD range now -30dB.

I have a SEAS W26FX woofer in house. I'll use it for a makeshift L-R 2-way Series crossover, cap. 22uF, inductor 1.2mH.

Pic. 7) frequency response. The -3dB point is around 800Hz. For me this is too low. Tomorrow I'll try 1.0mH.

Pic. 8) CSD with woofer. -30dB. The free air resonance around 500Hz is mostly gone. I really like this midrange.

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Sennheiser HD650 driven by class a amplifer?

I have been using my HD650 for a year at my office using headamp design based on opamp. if i recall my memory, i thought that i read somewhere that someone plug HD650 to class a amplifier F2J and other user connected it to 300B

i am always tempted to plug my cans to either J2/M2/SIT L'amp that i have but worried if i burn the voice coil

any advice to protect my cans? maybe adding parallel high power resistor?

thanks

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Passive Crossover with Strange Capacitor Placement

I have re-capped some Altea-Lansing Bolero 890C speakers. The tweeter has a 6uf cap then a resistor in line which works in conjunction with a selectable L-pad to attenuate the tweeter. This all makes sense, but there is another 3uf cap in parallel with the series resistor. This cap comes after the 6uf cap. I've never seen capacitors in series like this. Again, the order goes 6uf cap------3uf cap and resistor in series to the speaker. Can anyone tell me what this second capacitor is doing and why it might be there?

Some questions about BIB before I start building!

Hi, I want to build some large horn type speakers for my room.

My room looks like this:

https://i.imgur.com/HBklLQr.jpg

My budget is somewhere in the region of £500 but that's a flexible and saving money is always good too.

I have no restrictions in terms of appeasing anyone else so these things can be as big as necessary to get the best sound.

I've always been into Hifi (although would stop short of calling myself an "audiophile" - I am too cheap for that!) so I know loosely short sort of sound I am after.

My current setup is a pair B&W 560 which are getting long in the tooth powered by a Quad 303 and a Croft Super Micro the source I care most about is my turntable (Manticore Mantra) - other inputs are just for convenience listening.

I listen to practically every genre, but I really like Jazz and 70s, but I do listen to electronic and classical as well.

I feel pretty comfortable with my ability to make the cabs, but what I don't feel so comfortable with is the "tuning" of them. So something that trade complexity for size is appealing.

This has lead me to believe that the the BIB design paired with something like a Fostex fe206 would be a pretty good choice, what do you think?

My concerns are as follows:

  1. The BIB with a 206 seems to work out at being 6ft tall, do I need to consider the height of the room and my listening position with a speaker this tall?
  2. How difficult is the "tuning" using wadding, are their DIY ways I can make objective measurements of the speakers frequency response rather than relying entirely on my ear?
  3. Is the room too small for such a speaker? Or should it be fine (I have no neighbours and do enjoy playing music loud!).

Finally are there any other designs I should be considering?

And what sort of expectation should I have for the resulting sound quality? Are these going to blow away my midrange late 80s speakers? If I just rocked up at my local hifi shop, how much money would I have to spend to get a comparable sound. (I know this isn't the point of DIY audio, but I feel like it good to set expectations now).

Thanks!

Focal / JMlab inverted tweeter with ferrofluid?

Good evening,

I just bought a pair of JMlab/Focal DB30 speakers with inverted tweeter and decayed foam ring. Now is the foam ring not a problem I guess. And this JMlab, some older Kevlar tweeters shall be without Ferro fluid.

But now comes the real question. A friend of mine bought a - not that old - Avalon speakers with.. Focal inverted tweeters. I heard these speakers (2-way) and like to buy these to. Now the 1 million dollar question: Does anybody knows if there are Focal/JMlab inverted tweeters (with foam ring) made with Ferro fluid? This because Ferro fluid might dry up, and placing of a new foam ring in the future might give problems.

Thanks in advance for your response,

Best regards,
Edwin

0.005% Distortion Tone Control Preamp, NJW1119A Chipset

Hello DIYers,

This active analog chipset is stated to offer very low noise (-120dB, Typical Performance with Tone Off, -110dB Typical with Tone On), low distortion (0.0002%, Typical Performance with Tone Off, .005% Typical with Tone On). The tone control offers frequency cut and augmentation over three bands in 1dB increments, and is set using a 3-pin digital logic interface. The boost/cut frequencies in each band can be altered by changing a few out components on the pinouts. Power requirements are +/-7VDC and 15mA per stereo chipset, making this a prime candidate for a battery powered device.

After identifying the real average output level of the sources (DAC, AppleTV, or analog audio sources) for their application, the input should be suitably attenuated to adhere to the required gain structure and prevent unnecessary distortion from driving the input too high, without over-attenuating the input signal. 1% THD is reached under two conditions; 9.5V output level; 4.3V input; either condition with Tone On, which is easily avoided. The best performance is at 2V input and lower. The tone task is carried out actively (instead of the more common Bandaxall passive types that are often found between two stages). Because of this, the tone accentuation functions are boosted above the nominal gain of the chipset. The nominal gain of the chipset is unity, so a low-noise & low-output impedance follower chipset could be added after the NJW1119A to provide any desired amplification. A stereo volume potentiometer should be inserted between them to control the output level. This finishes the assembly, serving as a comprehensive preamp with respectable dynamic performance and especially low noise at comfortable listening levels.

NJW1119A Three-Band Integrated Circuit Stereo Tone Control
http://www.njr.com/semicon/PDF/NJW1119A_E.pdf

I would like to hear if anyone has experience with the logic control aspect of using a chip like this (details in the PDF file above). Arduino seems appropriate. Also, if there is a better performing chip to suit, that would be great to hear about, too.

2SK2013 + 2SJ313

Anyone has dealed with e-bay seller semitronus in New Jersey?

1 Pair | 2SK2013 + 2SJ313 Toshiba | FREE Shipping within US! | eBay

I asked him about the MOSFET he listed and got the answer.
semitronus said:
These parts were ordered from a trusted US supplier many years ago but not from the manufacturer itself, therefor I cannot know for sure their source. However I have sold many of these and always received positive feedback with them.
Hope that answers your question.
Best Regards,

Burning Amplifier BA-1

Introduction


The Burning Amp Festival happens every October in San Francisco. Do-it-yourself audio enthusiasts from all over gather to listen to talks and equipment demos,show off their projects, and rub shoulders with the rich and famous. Having a very large collection of audio parts and diminishing storage space, I seem to have fallen into the role of Santa Claus there, distributing components and cheap advice, with white hair, beard and a large elf (Colin Pass) to add verisimilitude.

This year we also brought a batch of unfinished amplifiers - chassis, connectors, transformer, power supply capacitors and Mosfet output stages. These were originally intended to be test beds for designs, but I ended up using the First Watt package for this purpose. My fellow pack rats will appreciate not being able to put something to use, but refusing to throw it away. Finding a good home for these things is an excellent solution, but with it comes the burden of responsibility.

As we were handing these out, it became apparent from the glazed eyes of the recipients that a suitable design for their use was a requirement, so the notion of the Burning Amps was born, a series of Class A designs which run fearlessly hot in the pursuit of quality amplification.

Here is the first one.

Hardware


Five varieties of stereo chassis were given out. There were all N channel Mosfet output stages with either 8 devices per channel or 12 devices per channel. There were complementary (N and P channel) Mosfet output stages also with 8 or 12 devices. There were even a couple of amplifiers with complementary bipolar output stages.

This array provides for a variety of approaches, and here we will address the “all N channel” amplifiers. The next piece will work with the complementary Mosfet output stages. After that, we will explore some other possibilities. A modular approach will serve us in our initial efforts – we will start with isolated versions of output stages and front ends.

Concept


This amplifier has a voltage gain stage which uses matched P channel Jfets to differentially accept a balanced or single-ended input signal. Following the Jfets, an N channel Mosfet provides single-ended voltage amplification controlled by a local loop. The output stage is a single-ended Class A output follower stage, biased by a large constant current source.

We will be operating this output stage au naturale, outside of any feedback loop, and so we will put some emphasis on its intrinsic performance, and the best way to get that out of Mosfets is to run lots of bias current through them. To emphasize the low order nature of any distortion, we will also run the output stage in single-ended Class A, which gives the lowest order harmonic content, primarily 2nd order. The result is a very good sounding output power circuit which is perfectly happy to run without a front end, and if your source has a high output level you can dispense with the front end altogether.

With such an output stage, we only need a simple front end, something that won’t get it the way or add significant distortion of its own. Since the Burning Amp chassis has both balanced and single-ended input connections, we want the input system to be comfortable with both types.

Power Supply


Here is the basic schematic of the power supply. This is essentially identical to many of the power supplies found in earlier articles such as the Zen series and the First Watt amplifiers. The components are fairly ordinary. As the typical Burning Amp will dissipate more than 300 watts, the transformer wants to be rated at least twice that. The diode bridge is 25 amp at 200+ volts, and you can use ordinary or fancy high-speed bridges as you please. There were a variety of transformers given away with these chassis, and our goal is to have approximately +/- 25 volts on the supply rails. Voltages from 18 to 30 volts are acceptable, and for transformers with secondaries much higher than 20 volts AC, operation using the primary taps in series as shown may reduce the secondary voltages to the desired levels.

Capacitors C1 and C2 are line-rated types only, as they will be filtering AC line voltages. Thermistors TH1 through TH3 are high power thermistors such as Keystone CL60. TH1 and TH2 are used to suppress inrush surges on turn-on, and also are useful at reducing mechanical noise in the transformers in conditions of high line noise. You will see that the chassis of the amp is to be directly attached to the AC Earth, and TH3 is used to attach analog ground to the chassis through the resistance of TH3, reducing issues with ground loops.”

C3 through C6 are your standard high capacity power supply capacitors. The “long” Burning Amp chassis with parallel output devices “6 deep” accommodates four such capacitors, the “shorter” chassis holds two. I recommend that the owners of the “short” chassis to find a way to mount two more capacitors at the front of the amp for C3 and C4. You will also note 10 uF film capacitors across the supply lines. You can delete these, but remember that the prototype used them.

All the resistors in the supply are 3 watt or higher types, and R1 through R8 are used to form an RC filter to reduce the supply ripple on the second set of capacitors.

From a layout standpoint, you can wire the supply just as you see on the schematic. The two crucial things to remember is that the ground point labeled STAR is the one you want to bring the signal grounds back to. The other issue is to keep the signal wiring at some physical distance from the transformer, AC lines, and the rectifier bridge and the wires attached to it.



Output Stage


Because this output stage is intended for more than one project, a modular approach is being taken, and we will consider the output stage by itself. Figure 2 shows the schematic of the “6 deep” output stage. The “4 deep” output stage is achieved by deleting two pairs of output devices and the associated resistors. All the parts are numbered between 101 and 199.

This output stage circuit, along with a few parts to set up the bias for both halves is perfectly functional as a “power buffer” along the lines of the First Watt F4 amplifier, except that this one operates as single-ended Class A with a bias current of about 3.5 amps. The 1 ohm resistors are all 3 watt types, and the output devices are best matched for the Vgs within about
0.1 volts or so at 500 mA or so.

By itself the output stage has fairly impressive performance: The noise is 30 uV, the input impedance is 49 Kohms, and the damping factor is 33.


Here is the distortion vs output for this stage at 1 Khz into 8 ohms.


Here is the distortion waveform, a nice second harmonic, at 1 watt, 1 Khz into 8 ohms.


Here is the frequency response at 1 watt into 8 ohms.


Front End


As with the output stage, the front end needs good stand-alone qualities. Besides accommodating single-ended and balanced inputs, we want a range of potential voltage gain figures, the ability to swing the output stage rail-to-rail, and performance that will not significantly degrade the stand-alone performance of our output stage.

This front end circuit also includes parts that provide bias voltages to both the positive and negative halves of the output stage. All the parts are numbered from 201 to 299.

Q201 is a dual matched pair of P channel Jfets, part 2SJ109. These are in scarce supply (although the recipients of Burning Amps will each get a pair). They can be substituted with matched 2SJ74 types, and a number of other parts will function with lesser performance.

Q201 is biased by a constant current source formed by Q202 and R205. Q202, an N channel JFET 2SK170 with Idss of about 10 mA, is operated as a constant current source by simply attaching the Gate pin to the Source pin. If you don’t have a 2SK170 with the 10 mA Idss, you can parallel two lesser value parts. The 10 mA figure is not critical, and potentiometer P201 provides flexibility on the value. R205 takes up some of the dissipation that would otherwise be found in Q202, keeping it within dissipation spec. As shown on the schematic, typically you will see about 10 volts across this part, reflecting the 10 mA current.


R201 through 204 form the balanced inputs networks. R201 = R203 and R202 = R204, and the gain is R203/R201. Compensation capacitors C201 and C202 form the high frequency roll-off for the gain, and while C201 is not strictly essential, it helps to retain the balanced input common mode rejection figure at high frequencies. If you are interested in higher gain figures, adjusting the values of R201 and R202 is a good place, as it minimally disturbs the frequency compensation.

When operating the amplifier with a single-ended (RCA) input, the negative input is shorted to ground. You can use dual input connectors, RCA and XLR with the hot RCA connected to pin 2 (+) of the XLR and RCA ground to pin 1. Pin 3 is the (-) input, and can be connected to pin 1 on the XLR for single-ended input.

The output signal from the input JFET appears across P201 and drives the Gate of Mosfet Q203 which provides the bulk of voltage gain for the front end. P201 provides adjustment against the expected variations of components in the front end and is used to set the output DC figure of the front end. You will note that no “lag” frequency compensation is employed.

The Drain of the Mosfet Q203 is biased with about 15 mA of current provided by the series 3 watt resistor values of R208 and R209. On the Source of Q203 the gain is degenerated by R207 at 100 ohms, limiting the gain and improving the linearity and bandwidth.

The point between R208 and R209 is “bootstrapped” from the output of the amplifier through C208. In many designs a constant current source would be employed here, but this approach is not only simpler but provides voltage drive greater than the positive supply voltage so that the maximum output of the amplifier gets as close to the supply rail voltages as possible.

In this case the power output difference is not small, and the Class A nature of the output stage makes us dissipate about 7 watts for every volt. The performance of the bootstrapped system with a good linear output stage is so close to the performance offered by constant current sourcing at lower
levels that it becomes the clear choice.

You will note that a RC networks appear between the output node of the front end and the input of the output stage. C203 rolls off the low frequency response at about 0.3 Hz and I chose to use a 10 uF polypropylene type here, as the only capacitor in the signal path. Strictly speaking you do not have to use this capacitor, but it does make adjustment and long term DC stability very easy to achieve. Without it, you will be using P201 to adjust the output offset, and there will be considerably more drift.

C204 and R215 form a high frequency pole at the output of the front end and this cleans up the square wave response at very high frequencies by simultaneously loading the front end and filtering the output above 200 Khz.

Assuming you use C203 as recommended, you will also want the positive bias network consisting of R212, R213, R214, Z201, C209, and P202. C203 and all these parts are absolutely essential if you decide to use the output stage as a stand-along power buffer. The purpose of this circuitry is to provide a positive constant bias voltage to the input of the bank of power Mosfets which sets their output to 0 volts DC. P202 is used to adjust this value.

There is also a bias system for the negative half of the output stage formed by R216, R217, R218, R219, C207 and Q204. Q204 is a generic NPN transistor which sees the voltage appearing across the 1 ohm Source resistors of the negative half of the output stage and sets their value at about 0.6 volts, locking them in at a constant current value of 0.6A each. R219 is not ordinarily used here, but can be added if you need to reduce the current in an amplifier which is running too hot. If you need to use it, you can try values starting with 47 Kohm or so, decreasing the resistance for less bias current.

R210, R211, C205 and C206 form a supply decoupling filter which helps keep the noise low by filtering the ripple from the raw power supply rails.

Construction Notes


All the usual comments about construction apply to this amplifier. The output devices should be matched for Vgs so that they share current well, and of course we note that all Mosfets are static sensitive until installed in the circuit, so they should be handled with reasonable care. Once in the circuit they are protected by Z101 and Z102.

Heat sinking for this amplifier is vital, and should be enough that the metal on which the transistors are mounted is at 65 deg C or less, and the fins should be at 55 deg C or less. If they are higher, you need to consider ventilation, fans, and/or lower bias current. The diode bridge on the power supply should also be mounted on metal for heat sinking, and Q203 is best provided
with some sort of “push-on-tab” heat sink.

The power transformer should be rated at 600 VA or more. Two channels of this amp will typically draw in excess of 300 watts, and we allow at least a 2 to 1 transformer margin.

Safety first: Use the smallest value Slow-Blow type fuse that holds up under continuous operation. Start with a 3A value and increase to 4A if necessary.

More Safety first: The chassis must be solidly grounded to the AC earth ground and should be attached to the analog circuit ground either directly, or through power thermistors or diode bridges if it is necessary to prevent ground loop noise issues.

Initial Turn-on and Adjustments


When the amplifier is first fired up, it is best done without a load. At a minimum you will need a DC multimeter so as to separately adjust the DC offset figures of the front end and the output stage. Set P201 to adjust the Drain voltage of Q203 to approximately 0 volts. This value is not critical, as it is isolated from the output in any case.

Then you want to adjust the DC output of the amplifier using P202, again setting it to 0 volts.

After this you would be well advised to use the multimeter to confirm the various voltages which are shown in the schematics to confirm that they are nominally close to those values. You will want to keep an eye on the amplifier as it warms up, and you will end up re-adjusting the values of the two potentiometers.

Heat sinks should stabilize at a temperature at which you can put your hand on the heat sinks for about 5 seconds. This is between 50 and 55 deg C, and is the ideal figure. As mentioned before, you should consider better ventilation or less bias if the heat is much greater.

Performance


The measured performance of both stages together is comparable to that of just the follower output stage. Of course it now has voltage gain, and with that we see an increase in noise to about 70 uV. The bandwidth is slightly reduced to -3 dB at about 200 Khz.

Here is the distortion vs power at 1 Khz into 8 ohms:


Here is the distortion vs frequency at 1 watt into 8 ohms:


Here is the amplifier frequency response curve at 1 watt:


This extended bandwidth will make you expect a good looking square wave.

At 100 Khz, the BA 1 does not disappoint:


The Sound


Most articles of this sort are expected to rhapsodize over the exquisiteness of the sounds emitted by the project. I find the experience of high quality audio ineffable, that is to say not easily translated to words. I don’t enjoy searching for phrases and trying to fit them to perceptions, but here I go anyway:

This amp is really swell!

I will also share that good measurements produced by simple linear circuits consistently sound swell. And why not? Tweaked over a period of time they usually can be made to sound even better, but that does tend to be a long process.

You are invited to share your experiences in the official thread Burning Amplifier 1 here on diyAudio.

Nelson Pass

© Nelson Pass 2009



You might be interested to know that...

For sale: Dual Channel USB Oscilloscope, it's new and never being used.

For sale: Dual Channel USB Oscilloscope
Price are $45. plus shipping cost. You can pay me with Interact money bank transfer.

Syscomp CGM-101, Open Source Multi-Function 2MS/s Dual Channel USB Oscilloscope, it's new and never being used.
2MS/s dual channel, 11-bit oscilloscope
200 kHz DDS arbitrary waveform generator
Eight channel digital I/O
Vector Network Analyzer
FFT Spectrum Analysis

Comes with three alligator-clip cables and a cd of setup and files.

I sell it because a short time after I have buy the Syscomp CGM-101 I found a big oscilloscope for a good price.

I'm in Canada.

Gaetan

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Pioneer Faceplate cleaning and polish

What do you use to clean and more so polish your vintage alum. face plates?? I did the dish soap soak on an old Pioneer and after soaking for an hour and using a toothbrush it removed almost ALL of the yellowing from the smoker who I purchased it from - now I am thinking car polish??? That is what I read - but would like to hear from someone who has had GREAT success with their face plates ... TIA - Paul

What was the world's first stringed instrument?

String Historian
The world's first stringed instrument has been unveiled at Qazvin's Saad al-Saltanah; its 4,000-year-old anthem is to be performed and its sample best performed by the UN Secretary-General.

The instrument is a half model based on historical information from the fourth millennium BC, from which the rest of the world's stringed instruments have come up with the most advanced piano.
This powerful instrument, with the most advanced mechanism of resonance box structure, has the ability to perform up to 3 musical distances and is capable of performing all melodies. It's gone and some of its notes have been found on old boulders known as cuneiform tablets.

Sony KHM-234AAA vs. KHM-234ASAA?

My Shanling SCD-T200 uses a Sony KHM-234AAA transport, but I can only find a KHM-234ASAA listed locally and internationally.

Is there anyone out there who has perhaps compared these two? Are they different, or is the 234ASAA just a newer version of the 234AAA?

Something else - the Shanling SCD-T200C uses a KHM-280AAA transport. It should fit into my machine, but would it actually work, or is the servo board of the SCD-T200C different from that of the SCD-T200?

Burson Supreme Sound V6 Performance Review

I have been used Burson Supreme Sound discrete opamps in previous projects. I have had success with both the single and dual version, V4. I found them to have a clean and pleasant sound quality.

I recently completed a preamp based on Rod Elliot's P88 PCB. I also used ESP's phono section for the MM input. I was very pleased with the performance of this preamp.

In addition to the ESP phono section, I included an HQMC MC phono section designed by Hypnotoad on AudioKarma. This uses AD797 opamps for the first stage. The second stage seems to respond to different opamps. There is a lot written on AK about the characteristics of the various choices. I have built 3 or 4 of the HQMC previously and settled on the LME49990 opamp. The sound quality with that pairing (AD797/LME49990) is a nice blend of detail with smoothness. For this test I swapped the LME49990 with the Burson V6 Classic(retained the AD797 in first stage). I was pleased with the results. The V6 was very smooth but showed a bit more detail than the LME49990. The Burson are a bit less harsh. It would be interesting to see how the circuit performed with Bursons in both stages. While the difference is not "night & day" it's an easy decision to replace the LME49990. The Burson are very reasonably priced and well made and they do offer sound improvement in my opinion. Unless you have a very shallow enclosure, they will fit.

Just for fun, I wanted to compare the V4 and V6. I believe the V6 offers a bit more detail retrieval or presentation than the V4. It's not enough that I would upgrade V4 to V6 but the V6 is better to me. I hope to test the V6 Vivid at some point in the future.

The first photo shows the HQMC with the Bursons. The second shows the Lme49990.

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Technics SU-V series AN7062N input amplifier

Hi!


I brought a second SU-V85A back to life that had blown output transistors, drivers and some of the other components in the current amp circuit.
The amp works but when I turn up the volume the top of the sine wave clips pretty quickly on the channel that had issues. I traced it back to the input amplifier on the board behind the faceplate (AN7062N). All voltages check out except for the one on the collector of Q402 which is too high and increases with volume.
I replaced the 2sa1123 with a KSA1220 just to be sure but the issue stays the same. There is no clipping on the input of the chip so I think it might be the chip itself, do you know of any replacement or reputable seller of these ?

Thanks



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Preamp

Bought the new nad658 steaming preamp and when I hook it up to the pass f6 all I get is a loud buzzing and smoke from the cl60 area. I hooked the preamp up to a cheap chip amp and the g12 tube amp and they worked fine. Luckily my F6 still works fine directly connected to my phone. Any thoughts?

Getterless Sylvania 6L6GC?

So I was looking at some tubes a few days ago and I saw the one and only 6L6GC on sale in Iran. It's a second hand Sylvania with the original box.

Now, everything seems fine to me except the getter. It seems to have the getter disc/ring, but it doesn't appear to be flashed. I'm not sure if this tube wasn't flashed when manufactured or there's something horribly wrong with it.

It's cheap though, around $9. The seller states in the description that "It's worth over $40 on foreign websites".

Do you think it has the barium azide on the ring that I can flash with my induction heater or it just has nothing?

I have attached the pictures of the tube.

Thanks!

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Lehmannaudio Linear HP Amplifier Clone

Lehmannaudio Linear HP Amplifier Clone
My P.C.B.
My alliminium case
Good parts
Good sound!!!

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Dayton Audio T652 - messing about

I came into possession of a pair of unaltered Dayton Audio T652s recently ...

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By themselves they're not that bad. Hardly "high end" but not entirely unpleasant to listen to. They had all the typical problems of cheap speakers... uneven frequency response, harsh treble, even some bass end stuff going on, but overall they were quite listenable. I judged them to be adequate for applications like sound bar killers or a den system, when used with a mini-amp but definitely not suited to a listening room or home theatres.

You can read my Amazon review HERE



Well these guys turn out to have a pretty decent hard dome tweeter and a pair of not entirely bad 6.5 inch mid-base drivers. I wasn't ready to rip them down for parts just yet and these things are cheap, under $200 for the pair... so why not have some fun?

1) I took them all apart, re-glued the inner seams and was pleasantly surprised to find bracing in the cabinet which also got some extra glue.

2) I replaced the spring clips with a binding post cup.

3) I tossed in an OTS 2 way, 2nd order crossover that I got for $19.00 a pair.

4) I filled the cabinet with loosely packed PolyFill up to the bottom woofer.

5) I later added a second inductor to the lower woofer to roll it off a bit early creating a sort of 2.5 way system.

Now, since taking them back in on trade, I've been listening to the altered versions for about a week... and guess what... they're not bad. They might even displace my Cambridge Audio speakers that cost twice as much.

The crossover details are below in thumbnails as are the DXO files for them. I didn't have the actual driver specs (they don't have part numbers on them) so what you see in the graphs isn't exactly what I got...

What I got is shown in the REW plot, also attached. There is a fair bit of room in there and my cheapo test mic rolls off around 6khz, but they still did surprisingly well...

Listening to the lower woofer you can hear bass that it rolls off at a relatively low frequency, 400hz or so. The upper woofer carries both the bass and the midrange up to about 2khz then the tweeter takes over for the rest.

All in all it's a nice clear sounding setup with a wide soundstage and surprisingly good bass.

Just don't expect them to take much power or play really loud... that's where these guys hit the wall.

So, has anyone else played with these and how did it go?

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Leach type input for ne5534

Recently ive been messing with discrete inputs for ne5534 as per circiut below. It works well, sounds good but i wanna get it to work with a leach type input seen on the other pic.

Would it be as simple as using the collectors of q1 and q3 to the opamp's pins?

Please let me know, thank you.

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Low budget and easy method for DIY waveguide

Something i would like to share with the rest of the (DIYaudio) world, is a way of making (round) waveguides.

First model was a 250Hz tractrix midhorn.
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And more recently an oblate spherical like 10inch hf waveguide.
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The material i use is plaster. It takes about 2 weeks to dry, depending on the thickness of course.

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It helps to make the horn mouth out of plywood, otherwise it tends to break when you remove the back plate. For my current waveguide, i use a 45degree router bit for a 90degree opening.

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Quad 2805s and 845 SE

I'm thinking of building the 845 SE, and wondered if anyone has used them with electrostatics. In particular the Quad 2805s. At the moment I have a Parasound A21, which is a bit over the top. Preamps are type 26 and 01A DHTs (Bartola based designs) or a Sowter TVC.
I used to have a pair of Ming Da 845 SETs, but sadly had to sell them. That was before I bought the Quads.
EDIT. I've just realised this design may not be ready. Is that correct?

Acoustat Model 3 Issues

I recently got a pair of model 3s and I’ve found a few issues I was hoping people could help me with.

1) One speaker is quieter than the other. For this is assume it’s the diode/capacitor board that increases the voltage. Can someone tell me what would be good replacements for these components.
2) The transformers hum. Is this an issue?
3) I played one song that had some deep bass. The quieter speaker made a weird sound at the bottom of the speaker on the lowest notes. Sort of like distortion but vey localized to the bottom of the speaker.
4) There are some other real old looking capacitors in there. Which ones should I replace?

Thanks

DD m4b power supply issue

I cant figure out what is causing this amp to go into protect. I have the rectifiers removed. I've narrowed it down to 1 bank of the power supply. When I put in 1 fet per bank 1 bank at a time it powers up fine until I get to the bank I've circled in the pic. If I put fets it it protects. If I take them out it's fine. The drive wave to that bank looks identical to the waves to all the other banks.

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