diy repair newb from florida, need help with a boston hps 10se
- By mrmrscheese
- Chip Amps
- 6 Replies
Attachments
DIY amp completed - part I : PGDlx and PGJ.
- By tubelectron
- Instruments and Amps
- 0 Replies
OK Guys - I may have posted some pictures about them many years ago, but since I reworked these amps recently and also because my previous picture hoster collapsed... I repost... 😱😉
(Just click on the pics to see them with correct proportions, and then real size with clicking the icon at the left bottom of the pic 🙂 )
The Paul GUILHEM Deluxe (lower) and Paul GUILHEM Junior (upper) :
The PGDlx offers some extra facilities from now on :
- A FSWable booster (below the input jack).
- A Fixed/Cathode bias operation SW (HIGH/LOW).
- A rectifier mode SW (Valve/Diodes).
- A feedback SW (Tight/Loose).
- 14 to 24W RMS clean power output, depending on the power stage and PSU modes selected.
The PGJ offers less - due to its compact size :
- A FSWable booster (at the back).
- A Presence rotary switch.
- A Triode/Pentode mode SW (HI/LO).
- 5 or 23WRMS clean power, depending on the power stage mode selected.
But none of them are lightweight... 23.5Kg for the biggest, 14.5kg for the smallest... 😱
A new version - even more compact - of the PGJ :
Size comparison :
And still heavy... 🙄
A+!
(Just click on the pics to see them with correct proportions, and then real size with clicking the icon at the left bottom of the pic 🙂 )
The Paul GUILHEM Deluxe (lower) and Paul GUILHEM Junior (upper) :
The PGDlx offers some extra facilities from now on :
- A FSWable booster (below the input jack).
- A Fixed/Cathode bias operation SW (HIGH/LOW).
- A rectifier mode SW (Valve/Diodes).
- A feedback SW (Tight/Loose).
- 14 to 24W RMS clean power output, depending on the power stage and PSU modes selected.
The PGJ offers less - due to its compact size :
- A FSWable booster (at the back).
- A Presence rotary switch.
- A Triode/Pentode mode SW (HI/LO).
- 5 or 23WRMS clean power, depending on the power stage mode selected.
But none of them are lightweight... 23.5Kg for the biggest, 14.5kg for the smallest... 😱
A new version - even more compact - of the PGJ :
Size comparison :
And still heavy... 🙄
A+!
BuffaloPRO build thread
- By barrows
- Twisted Pear
- 28 Replies
Let's see your BuffaloPRO builds here! Here is mine in preliminary form:
BuffaloPRO (9038)/Mercury/Hermes-Amanero-Cronus (with a single 45.1584 XO)/DIY supply for digital/old Placid HD(temporary) for analog.
I plan to extend the aluminum angle stock acting as a heatsink here such that it can shield the AC input from the DAC section, and I will build some new supply for the analog section-I used the old Placid 'cause it was around for initial testing.
BuffaloPRO (9038)/Mercury/Hermes-Amanero-Cronus (with a single 45.1584 XO)/DIY supply for digital/old Placid HD(temporary) for analog.
I plan to extend the aluminum angle stock acting as a heatsink here such that it can shield the AC input from the DAC section, and I will build some new supply for the analog section-I used the old Placid 'cause it was around for initial testing.
Bi amping proel tflv152p4
- By Ketamarano
- Multi-Way
- 0 Replies
Hello guys
I bought a pair of used proel tflv152p4 but the driver were not working
i checked the wiring and seems that crossover was missing because the wires go from woofer/driver directly to speakon imput, but i since i'm a big noob i sent them to rapair.
Got them back on friday and at the shop they were working perfectly, so bought new amplifer and 4 poles speakon cables as suggested from the rapiar guy but still they were now working, so i check and wiring and nothing changed, still no crossover and direct wires
so at this point, if i just buy a new amplifer and external crossover for the drivers and the just weld the driver wires to output speakon will it work?
sorry if the post may be a big mess but i'm a big noob
also attached the pic of the actual wiring
I bought a pair of used proel tflv152p4 but the driver were not working
i checked the wiring and seems that crossover was missing because the wires go from woofer/driver directly to speakon imput, but i since i'm a big noob i sent them to rapair.
Got them back on friday and at the shop they were working perfectly, so bought new amplifer and 4 poles speakon cables as suggested from the rapiar guy but still they were now working, so i check and wiring and nothing changed, still no crossover and direct wires
so at this point, if i just buy a new amplifer and external crossover for the drivers and the just weld the driver wires to output speakon will it work?
sorry if the post may be a big mess but i'm a big noob
also attached the pic of the actual wiring
Amp with perpetual power???
- By Hayden
- Solid State
- 16 Replies
I am totally missing something here haha
I see amps rated 5000watts but the power consumption is 1000watts so where does the extra 4000watts come from??? I’m definitely missing something here haha
I see amps rated 5000watts but the power consumption is 1000watts so where does the extra 4000watts come from??? I’m definitely missing something here haha
Using Car Amp at home (McIntosh Mcc404m)
- Power Supplies
- 5 Replies
[special=[special=
]%[/special]]%[/special]
Hello,
Hope everyone is well at those times
I’m stripping MCC404m from my car, I won’t be doing car audio anymore.
I thought of repurposing this amp as home amp.
1) Do you think it will be an upgrade over my current amp Adcom GFA-535?
On paper, MCC404 is more powerful 200w@8ohm bridged vs. 60w@8ohm.
But, MCC has lower S\N ratio 105db vs 110db.
MCC THD 0.007 bridged @ 4ohm. Any guess what it could be at 8ohm load? (Does it matter/audible in real life?)
Attached spec sheet for both amps. (MCC manual, Adcom from web)
2) I will need a power supply for MCC. From what I gathered I can use a PC PSU.
MCC is rated at 12v 70A (100W ??? This one I don’t understand - 12v*70A=840w...anyway, I believe I should get at least 1200w PSU - Corsair XH1200 or something along those lines).
Please correct me if I’m wrong, any input would be appreciated
3) my concerns:
- will PC PSU introduce noise into the system? In theory i can add a capacitor in the chain, the same one i used in a car.
- is PC PSU a safe option? Do they have build in protection? (Basically, will this setup be a hazard, even in case I’ll do everything else right - securely connected wires, insulated, all that)
4) other reasons not to do that?
I thought of doing it because I thought it might be an upgrade over Adcom,
MCC has some EQ capabilities which may come in handy (well, depends on how quality it is, EQ on my pre-amp that i used (also Adcom) definitely introduced some artifacts in higher frequencies, so idk),
Lastly, generally I think its just cool idea, and a fun project.
Thank you
]%[/special]]%[/special]Hello,
Hope everyone is well at those times
I’m stripping MCC404m from my car, I won’t be doing car audio anymore.
I thought of repurposing this amp as home amp.
1) Do you think it will be an upgrade over my current amp Adcom GFA-535?
On paper, MCC404 is more powerful 200w@8ohm bridged vs. 60w@8ohm.
But, MCC has lower S\N ratio 105db vs 110db.
MCC THD 0.007 bridged @ 4ohm. Any guess what it could be at 8ohm load? (Does it matter/audible in real life?)
Attached spec sheet for both amps. (MCC manual, Adcom from web)
2) I will need a power supply for MCC. From what I gathered I can use a PC PSU.
MCC is rated at 12v 70A (100W ??? This one I don’t understand - 12v*70A=840w...anyway, I believe I should get at least 1200w PSU - Corsair XH1200 or something along those lines).
Please correct me if I’m wrong, any input would be appreciated
3) my concerns:
- will PC PSU introduce noise into the system? In theory i can add a capacitor in the chain, the same one i used in a car.
- is PC PSU a safe option? Do they have build in protection? (Basically, will this setup be a hazard, even in case I’ll do everything else right - securely connected wires, insulated, all that)
4) other reasons not to do that?
I thought of doing it because I thought it might be an upgrade over Adcom,
MCC has some EQ capabilities which may come in handy (well, depends on how quality it is, EQ on my pre-amp that i used (also Adcom) definitely introduced some artifacts in higher frequencies, so idk),
Lastly, generally I think its just cool idea, and a fun project.
Thank you
Control of BBB-based audio appliances
- By francolargo
- Twisted Pear
- 139 Replies
Thanks largely to the persistence of Miero and his work on Botic, the capabilities of BBB-based music players are steadily expanding. However, it is unreasonable to expect Miero to anticipate the preferences or needs of every builder. This thread is intended as a place to share our individual solutions to various control and integration scenarios - from the routine to very specialized. I hope you will consider showing off what you have done with your own hardware and software. I will do the same with my very basic efforts as progress is made. I'm keeping it as simple as possible using bash and python. Be forewarned, my approach here will be as a beginner whose knowledge is gained from trial-and-error with heavy emphasis on the error! 😀
To start, let me go 'pie in the sky' and present a couple of possibilities for controllers that I am thinking about but with which i have zero experience. The ideas and possibilities seem really transformative - really worth learning about. These control methods use mobile device apps (iOS and Android) that allow one to construct their own "remote controls" for lots of different kinds of devices. (Who doesn't have a retired smartphone that could be put into service?) Here, I'm thinking of controlling things like system inputs and outputs (e.g., a TPA OttoII), volume, other play parameters, etc. This can be done from a SSH command line, but these controller programs are truly multifunctional. I don't want to duplicate the many excellent controllers for MPD or Squeezelite, but how about controlling other equipment or room lighting from the same hand-held device? The internet of things is arriving. 🙄
NetIO is a fairly well-developed platform with an online design application for configuring controllers. A variety of widgets can be incorporated into the controls, like buttons, switches, sliders, displays, etc. Advanced controllers can be multi-page and programmed to change pages as the functions require. If I'm not mistaken, the control panel can also display information gathered from the 'slave' device. The interface between the mobile control device and the slave device is limited. Quoting the developer:
Blynk is the other DIY controller App. This is less expensive and is perhaps more broadly applicable, being employed in "lower-level" device control tasks as well as at the level of Linux development boards. If I'm not mistaken, there is javascript server code that runs on Rpi but that has not been ported to BBB. Both NetIO and Blynk host user forums, and it seems the level of discussion is more technical with Blynk. The Q/A is harder for me to understand. So I don't know which of the two systems would be easier to use after gaining working knowledge.
Are any readers experienced with either of these two systems? What is your advice?
Because my BBB is wired and not wifi, opening a TCP port doesn't worry me. So I will probably try NetIO using TCP enabled by Python scripts. I will report back when I know more. I will also share the interrupt and control scripts that are now about 50% done - along with photos, of course!
...looking forward to your thoughts and ideas...
To start, let me go 'pie in the sky' and present a couple of possibilities for controllers that I am thinking about but with which i have zero experience. The ideas and possibilities seem really transformative - really worth learning about. These control methods use mobile device apps (iOS and Android) that allow one to construct their own "remote controls" for lots of different kinds of devices. (Who doesn't have a retired smartphone that could be put into service?) Here, I'm thinking of controlling things like system inputs and outputs (e.g., a TPA OttoII), volume, other play parameters, etc. This can be done from a SSH command line, but these controller programs are truly multifunctional. I don't want to duplicate the many excellent controllers for MPD or Squeezelite, but how about controlling other equipment or room lighting from the same hand-held device? The internet of things is arriving. 🙄
NetIO is a fairly well-developed platform with an online design application for configuring controllers. A variety of widgets can be incorporated into the controls, like buttons, switches, sliders, displays, etc. Advanced controllers can be multi-page and programmed to change pages as the functions require. If I'm not mistaken, the control panel can also display information gathered from the 'slave' device. The interface between the mobile control device and the slave device is limited. Quoting the developer:
Code:
NetIO does not support SSH connections. It is only TCP sockets , UDP or HTTP and
HTTPS.
However, there is a project from simi-chan http://netioapp.com/de/projects/681
that enables the execution of bash commands via NetIO without a special
self-programmed server.
@kushal_mehta51 hostnames work, so if you have a dyndns address and the router
configured correctly, you can just use the dyndns address to connect from the
internet.Blynk is the other DIY controller App. This is less expensive and is perhaps more broadly applicable, being employed in "lower-level" device control tasks as well as at the level of Linux development boards. If I'm not mistaken, there is javascript server code that runs on Rpi but that has not been ported to BBB. Both NetIO and Blynk host user forums, and it seems the level of discussion is more technical with Blynk. The Q/A is harder for me to understand. So I don't know which of the two systems would be easier to use after gaining working knowledge.
Are any readers experienced with either of these two systems? What is your advice?
Because my BBB is wired and not wifi, opening a TCP port doesn't worry me. So I will probably try NetIO using TCP enabled by Python scripts. I will report back when I know more. I will also share the interrupt and control scripts that are now about 50% done - along with photos, of course!
...looking forward to your thoughts and ideas...
Audio Note Conqueror problem
- By drhl
- Tubes / Valves
- 61 Replies
Hello,
I have a problem with AN Conqueror and I can not deal with it. It is quite old unit and I have change electrolyte caps to Audio Note Kaisai and standard. After this the resistor marked on the diagram has burned out. I have changed it and it burned out again. The voltage measured at this resistor with both 300b installed is 40V. With only one 35V. The 6sn7 heater voltage is 5,9V. The 300b filament voltage is 4,9V. What can be wrong with my amp and what else should I check?
P.S. In my unit there are two more resistors that are not on the diagram. First one is 10W 1R2 between 6sn7 heater and bridge rectifier. Second one is 2W 6k8 at the positive wire that connects B+ to board with 300b and 6sn7 tubes.
I have a problem with AN Conqueror and I can not deal with it. It is quite old unit and I have change electrolyte caps to Audio Note Kaisai and standard. After this the resistor marked on the diagram has burned out. I have changed it and it burned out again. The voltage measured at this resistor with both 300b installed is 40V. With only one 35V. The 6sn7 heater voltage is 5,9V. The 300b filament voltage is 4,9V. What can be wrong with my amp and what else should I check?
P.S. In my unit there are two more resistors that are not on the diagram. First one is 10W 1R2 between 6sn7 heater and bridge rectifier. Second one is 2W 6k8 at the positive wire that connects B+ to board with 300b and 6sn7 tubes.
new to fullrange
- By jkojic
- Full Range
- 25 Replies
hi- im new to full range but want to get a first hand experience in the subject-
i have small cabs- made from plywood- they have 10mm of bitumen and 50mm foam-
27cm x43cm x 19cm- my amp is dynaco sca-35
can you suggest a driver - i dont min putting a new front panel and port if required
price is not a huge issue as i can sell on if i dont like them
i have small cabs- made from plywood- they have 10mm of bitumen and 50mm foam-
27cm x43cm x 19cm- my amp is dynaco sca-35
can you suggest a driver - i dont min putting a new front panel and port if required
price is not a huge issue as i can sell on if i dont like them
ESD/EOS Filter for ADC Input?
- By JayShoe
- Digital Line Level
- 1 Replies
Hello,
I'm designing a TLV320ADC6140 module that will be used as the ADC for 2 microphone inputs and a stereo "line level" pair.
The device has "anti-aliasing filters associated with the decimation stage, dedicated high-pass, and then programmable biquads..." and "the only required external components to evaluate the product is the AC coupling cap (which can be shorted out for DC coupled operation)." - TI
I plan on connected dynamic professional microphones such as an SM58 connected to an XLR jack, over a balanced XLR cable. On the other two inputs I plan on connecting a 3.5mm jack which will accept line level signal from devices such as phones, tablets, computers, etc.
I checked with TI and they said that i should consider adding "system level ESD or IEC type transient protection." and said that maybe "add a TVS diode in parallel with a ~100-470pF capacitor". So this is the circuit I have drawn.
We have the following parts:
Is this a decent ESD/EOS Filter? We'll be using the microphones in the public with people passing them around and being rough with them in a karaoke environment. The line inputs will be phones, and tablets, plugged and unplugged frequently. Do you think this is a good circuit as an input for our ADC?
Thank you!
Jay
I'm designing a TLV320ADC6140 module that will be used as the ADC for 2 microphone inputs and a stereo "line level" pair.
The device has "anti-aliasing filters associated with the decimation stage, dedicated high-pass, and then programmable biquads..." and "the only required external components to evaluate the product is the AC coupling cap (which can be shorted out for DC coupled operation)." - TI
I plan on connected dynamic professional microphones such as an SM58 connected to an XLR jack, over a balanced XLR cable. On the other two inputs I plan on connecting a 3.5mm jack which will accept line level signal from devices such as phones, tablets, computers, etc.
I checked with TI and they said that i should consider adding "system level ESD or IEC type transient protection." and said that maybe "add a TVS diode in parallel with a ~100-470pF capacitor". So this is the circuit I have drawn.
We have the following parts:
- ES1 and ES2 are a TVS Diode with part number TPD1E10B06QDPYRQ1
- C11 and C25 are a CAP CER 100PF 50V C0G/NP0 0402 with part number C0402C101J5GAC7411
Is this a decent ESD/EOS Filter? We'll be using the microphones in the public with people passing them around and being rough with them in a karaoke environment. The line inputs will be phones, and tablets, plugged and unplugged frequently. Do you think this is a good circuit as an input for our ADC?
Thank you!
Jay
Attachments
A somewhat big "K8" Karlson cabinet
- By freddi
- Full Range
- 2 Replies
(this is also in the multiway forum as a 2-way so moderators may wish to pull one of the posts)
built around 1960-63 by Art Welter's dad and based on the second K12 from ~1956 which was featured as a construction project in the July 1958 issue of Popular Mechanics. A 2/3 scale K12 would be around 1 cubic foot bulk while this one is about 1.65 cubic foot.
I've run it with a Visaton BG20 and that was nice. Its tuned high - like 90Hz so ideally could use a subwoofer/woofer to blend at ~100Hz.
With Beta8CX and the helfty B52/Celestion polyamide diaphragm compression driver, piano is very nice and dynamic - same for drums - it would not disappoint the front horn lovers as a 2-way.. (Xover 1.2mH/10uF LP, 4uF/0.35mH/12uF HP with an L-pad.
sorry for the rough drawing - look at the dims and rear view and
you might make a better one
The front face of the baffle is ~9.4" high x 11" wide.
Front chamber volume ~7.7 liters
(don't worry about that awful wire - it has 18ga real copper wire and disconnects in its current state)
built around 1960-63 by Art Welter's dad and based on the second K12 from ~1956 which was featured as a construction project in the July 1958 issue of Popular Mechanics. A 2/3 scale K12 would be around 1 cubic foot bulk while this one is about 1.65 cubic foot.
I've run it with a Visaton BG20 and that was nice. Its tuned high - like 90Hz so ideally could use a subwoofer/woofer to blend at ~100Hz.
With Beta8CX and the helfty B52/Celestion polyamide diaphragm compression driver, piano is very nice and dynamic - same for drums - it would not disappoint the front horn lovers as a 2-way.. (Xover 1.2mH/10uF LP, 4uF/0.35mH/12uF HP with an L-pad.
sorry for the rough drawing - look at the dims and rear view and
you might make a better one
The front face of the baffle is ~9.4" high x 11" wide.
Front chamber volume ~7.7 liters
(don't worry about that awful wire - it has 18ga real copper wire and disconnects in its current state)
Nbip300 Quasi amp with MJ150024 GAIN problems... 109 Watts only
- By DIYGEEK
- Solid State
- 15 Replies
Attachments
Converting an old Peavey Bass Amp into a D class amplifier
- By JulianRojas
- Class D
- 29 Replies
