Planet-10 A7m + A12pw ML-TL Build

Hey all, I just wanted to post some mostly-final images, and some final thoughts of build I did about 8 months ago...

Dave at Planet-10 actually lives quite near to me, so on occasion, when I have free time and money to burn, I ring him up. I have seen/read of many people trying to find good plans and ideas for full range builds that incorporate a helper woofer or two. I stumbled around doing several builds trying to find something I was happy with in the full range world. Lots of really fun stuff out there, but never quite the whole package in my books... and well, I'm cheap(ish) so I try to get the best bang for my buck.

Well, I came across Dave's ML-TL build using the Mark Audio Alpair 7m and 2 Alpair 12pw's doing bass duty. I, unlike many of you, had the opportunity to audition them in real life. I was sold then, listening to them in Dave's livingroom, and I am still sold many months later - something rare for me to say.

Anywho. I feel like there's very little info available on these out there and they deserve more. The A7m are insanely revealing and smooth drivers... they are easily my favorite for anythingother than heavy bass duty. Now the A12pw - HOLY they go low with finesse. I had my suspicions, but make no mistake, a pair of these in room go to mid 20hz flat easy peasy in this ML-TL. The low end is so smooth it's haunting... it's not going to blast rap at 120db, but for realistic volumes it's stunning. A very well matched set, and a VERY well designed build that was decently straight-forward to execute. I deviated from the plan from an easthetic perspective... I had the strongest urge for bamboo, something I don't regret aside from being a bastard in the woodshop; never have I had so many slivers and chip outs! Only real mistake that I couldn't cover up was misalignment of my circle jig so the holes have a 1/16" gap all around. Working on hiding that, then I can call them completely done!

Thanks for reading

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Rockford t600. 4 no power

Hello!
I need your help, this amp turned on before but after removing the power supply board and replaced some caps, the amp would not turn on again. Somebody help me to find the remote signal in the terminal of the pwer supply board? Schematic also much appreciated. Thank you!

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Golden tube Audio SE-100 amp tests?

Wow the last threads on this amp are pretty old!

Well anyway, I thought I would throw some info out there in case anyone is interested.

The schematics I have received on this amp are suspect unfortunately. So, I have been going point to point and hand drawing the schematic and it's challenging to say the least. So far so good and I have compiled some stats. I have my amp cooking at least voltage wise, I have not put a signal through it yet or listened to it. What a powerful monster. lots of transformers and heat. 7 transformers and chokes in the circuitry. My home brew designs have all been capacitor coupling and transformer output.

So, bottom line any help would be appreciated and if I can shed light on the subject I will give it a shot! I'm going to continue updating this schematic until I get it all straightened out. Then I will be running some signals through it and looking at it on the o-scope. Anxious to look at the results...

Good luck on all projects!:

Dennis...….W7edn🙂

Finding source of different volume level between channels

I’ve got a several dB difference in volume between channels. I’ve gone through everything and narrowed the likely culprit down to two possibilities, with the spdif run between a modified Oppo 203 and dac being the most likely, for reasons I’ll leave aside for now (the other is one of the dac’s outputs). Swapping in another spdif cable got the same result. Since I don’t have another source to sub in for the Oppo, is there way with a multimeter to check what’s arriving for each channel on the destination end of an spdif cable? Thanks,

Elekit TU8600S triggers current protection on one or the other channel at power on

Hello to everybody. I just finished building an Elekit TU8600S Lundhal Version. It works very well, no hum and audio quality is excellent. Unfortunately there is a problem: at first power-on the current protection triggers (generally on the right channel, but sometimes on the left channel as well). Then, waiting for a while and switching on again, it goes properly. Of course it is extremely annoying, and one cannot live with it. Any suggestion? The PTCs are the new UN600-200, therefore I do not think they are the problem source. Voltages during normal operation are ok. Thank you for addressing me on the right path.

SoundStream BXA1-5000D audio problem

I have this amp that’s flickering between protection and power, I’ve remove the rectified rail volts and the power supply is ok. When the outputs ate removed it’s on but not going in protection, there is low side drive wave but not high side out of the chip IR2010S and I’m getting input on both drive pins on same IC..

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Class A, no feedback, 5W, minimum parts

I've been thinking... class A amplification is great, transistors are cheap, and usually a peak of only 3 watts is reached during normal listening.

If just a single transistor is biased to the middle of its linear range, could it be driven by a headphone amplifier for low power, high fidelity sound? A 2 stage amp with the first being a headphone amp?

I can't design the circuit for an amplifier (it's beyond my abilities), so I'm asking: is a headphone amplifier that can put out ~70mW (typical) be used to drive a single transistor which is biased into the middle of its linear range so that it can be used with no feedback? I know this won't result in the absolute best possible sound quality, but there'd be no crossover distortion, less harmonic distortion, and as long as the speaker connected doesn't have a very reactive low end, I think the frequency response should be close enough to flat

If it's possible, what would the simplest implementation of this look like? It'd be great if we could have inexpensive, easy, high fidelity, low powered, Class A amplification.

CPC order.

I was after some MJ15003's and CPC seemed to be cheapest so ordered 4 and some other bits and pieces.

Order came and I had ordered 100 off 10k resistor. They came one in each bag! Took half an hour to take out of bags and put in a drawer. Not even 10k written on the bags so had to DMM first one to see what it was.

They did the same with 25 pcb connectors, one in each bag.

The transistors were in foam but sellotaped to foam which was a pig to get undone leaving sticky mess on transistors. Again no transistor number on bags.

One of the bags had a stock number scribbled on it in pen but very hard to read.

So sent them a snotty email complaining.
They then wonder why people buy elsewhere.

Rockford Fosgate P1000x5

This amp is using IRF6218 and IRF3415 for the outputs .

I can’t find the IRF6218 anywhere besides on Amazon and I don’t trust the parts .

Anyone know of a replacement or something I can try in this amp to replace the 6218?

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Building a tube DAC around the Soekris dam1021

I just completed design and assembly of a DAC based on the Soekris dam1021 R-R2 resistor ladder DAC with a 6SN7 tube buffer stage. This is my first DIY project.

Components
  • Soekris dam1021 R-2R DAC
  • DIYINHK x USB to I2S interface board
  • Arduino microcontroller
  • 16 character vacuum fluorescent display
  • Lundahl 1949 line input transformers
  • Lundahl 1930 parafed line output transformers
  • Lundahl 1667 anode chokes
  • Edcor 300-0-300 mains transformer
  • Edcor 5H power supply choke
  • Audiophonics R-Core transformer for low voltage digital power supplies: 12-0-12 V and 9 V
  • 6SN7 triode tubes
  • 5U4GB rectifier tube

Project goals
  • R-2R ladder DAC
  • Tube based high voltage power supply
  • Tube based buffer stage
  • Separate linear, regulated power supplies for the digital electronics
  • Linear regulated DC filament supply
  • Front panel source selection: USB, SPDIF1, SPDIF2
  • Display operating mode, bit rate, and lock status on the VFD display
  • Eliminate audible pops by opening/closing the analog connections and switching sources using relays and logic implemented on the Arduino

Implementation
  • The analog section consists of a parallel connected 6SN7 cathode follower feeding a parallel connected 6SN7 parafed gain stage
  • Lundahl line input and output transformers
  • Turret boards used for the high voltage power supply and buffer circuitry
  • Perforated prototype boards (Bud Industries) for the power supply and logic boards
  • I used optical isolator chips to isolate the DIYINHK USB interface board, source select switch, DAC lock, and DAC source select pins from the Arduino
  • I used PSU Designer II software to develop and model the power supplies
  • I used LT Spice to develop and model the vacuum tube electronics
  • I've always liked the look of VFD displays. I think it's a shame they are being phased out.

Lessons learned
  • I created a Visio stencil to represent the holes on the prototype boards. I found Visio to be a useful tool to lay out the component placement and wiring of the prototype boards. However, making board changes in Visio proved tedious. I wish I could have found dedicated software for laying out prototype boards. I didn’t want to go through the process of having circuit boards fabricated for a one off design.
  • I am also using Visio to design the chassis. The dimensioning feature gives me the X/Y offsets that I need for placing the fasteners in Protocase Designer.
  • I found .296 inch Mill-Max pins (DigiKey part number ED10464-ND) really useful for routing wires around corners and for bringing wires from one side of a prototype board to another. These pins allowed me to easily create two layer boards.
  • I bought a used HP signal generator on EBay and a LOTO instruments OSCA02L USB oscilloscope from Amazon for circuit testing, which proved very useful. I’m happy with the USB oscilloscope and it seems adequate for use by a hobbyist.

Evaluation
I really enjoyed an AudioLogic triode tube DAC that I owned for the past 25 years. When the AudioLogic DAC failed and couldn’t be repaired, I decided I would try and build my own.
I am really enjoying the nuance and detail of the Soekris DAC.
I am also impressed by how closely the actual circuitry matched the spice model predictions.
This has been an enjoyable project. I've benefitted greatly from the knowledge available here and elsewhere on the internet.

Next steps
  • I’m currently designing a five sided steel enclosure using Protocase Designer and will send the completed CAD file to Protocase for fabrication
  • I’m using concealed head self-clinching fasteners so there won’t be any visible fasteners on the steel chassis
  • I'll clean up the wiring when I move everything to a permanent chassis. I didn't want to cut the leads from the transformers and chokes until then.

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Alpine R-A60F Power Terminal

Need a replacement power terminal for my Alpine R-A60F amplifier. Tried purchasing through encompass and pacparts, both said that they haven't been given the part number or pricing by Alpine. I contacted Alpine directly, and they refused to offer the part details for purchase. Pacparts says they are trying to get pricing from alpine but it hasn't happened. I had ordered part #82096H06414V78, thinking it was the same thing, but Pacparts says it's not. Any options?

SPL Dynamics S-6002

Hi,

i have a S-6002 2 Channel A/B amplifier.

The Transistordrivers get really fast very hot, the current starts at 2,4A and go in 10 Seconds higher than 4.5A. Then i remove the remote signal, before it gots more damage.

Any Idea? Measured +- 22V DC in OP-Amp Voltage.

Thanks

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Grounded amp output, possibly irrepairable. Replacement? Part project?

So I may be in the market for a new amplifier... I accidentally grounded the output of my Kinergetics KBA-280. What it was (if I can't fix it or have it fixed):

Class A amplifier spec'd at 140wRMS into 8 ohms, measured it myself: 250 watts continuous.

A stereophile review measured it at about 350 into 4 ohms, 500 into 2, and over an entire thousand into one ohm. The single ohm measurement was different, a 10ms tone burst (fuses blew otherwise. Current delivery of 32A at 1 ohm)

It's SNR A weighted is 102db at 8 ohms. Excellent, considering that the noise is of the benign kind from Class A operation.

There are 10 output transistors in parallel per channel (I forget which model right now). They're all operating well within their linear range. I'm not an expert on amplifier design, but I assume that because of this, feedback would be low.

The amp exudes power. Excellent bass, silky smooth highs, great transients. Not a complaint I could make about it, other than maybe its heat output and fan. The heat is excessive, but the fan is quiet. You can barely tell it's on in a silent room. If you didn't know it had a fan and you never got any closer than 4 feet, you probably wouldn't discover it.

In case I can't have it fixed, I've been looking at possible replacements, and damnnnn! I want something on par, and from what I'm seeing, it doesn't exist. At my local hifi shop, the two highest end options in my target price range:

Moon 240i with LM3886? $3500
NAD M10 SNR 86db/w @5w: $3500!!!

Those are the two options, nothing else unless over 5k or under 1.5.
I want to support them because I've gone there since I was in high school and they've always been helpful. One guy taught me about things when I was new to the hobby. But I can't buy either one of those amps. I'd be unhappy for years. So maybe my next DAC will come from them, but my Babyface Pro is still new and a great source which I use at full level through the simplest passive preamp, so that might be in a bit.

Anyway... I'm relatively new to DIY audio. I'm thinking, if I can't find a good enough high powered amp for less than the price of an Impala, maybe I could make a low powered Class A amp myself for quieter listening. I could take a few of the transistors from the Kinergetics and make an amp. They're all in working order, plus 6 brand new old stock spares that I bought for a shop near me to use to try to fix my amp (they've been unsuccessful thus far).

I have a couple of really great linear power supplies. Fully regulated, extremely quiet, and fast. So fast. Switches to CC mode at 5.1A
+-62v at 5A.
I also have 4 caps total 120,000uf 63v !!8 mOhm!!

Are there any open source, easy (I can hope), high performance, Class A designs online which would benefit from the power supply I have? 150+ and 150- per side. Also, if anyone has suggestions for an off the shelf amp, I'd appreciate it greatly

LJM l20se and l20.5 potentiometers

Hello,


What would be right value for potentiometers controlling the input level/volume for Ljm l20se and l20.5 amplifiers?


I have active setup and i would need to set the right input level only once. That way i can get levels right for each channel Bass, mid and treble.


Wouldnt want to get the ljm preamps since all my toroids are single supply and over the voltage.


I have many 10K ohm alps, dont know if they will work well

Can 5881 Take High Plate and Screen Voltage?

Watched an interview with Mike Soldano where he said to put 5881s in his SLO100 amp.
This amp has about 500V on the plates and the screen is not too far behind. I have several
1960s production Tung-Sol 5881s and while the bulb is small the plates look
huge. I know that they are a good tube but am wondering if they are designed with
huge margin on the specs. Mine are not JAN military but I've seen them and they look
the same. This guy states that Mil 5881s can be pushed far past their specs - but it is the
Internet so who knows:
What is your favorite 6L6/5881 power tubes for a Soldano SLO? | The Gear Page

Some people state that Sovtek 5881s are stock OEM from Soldano:
What is your favorite 6L6/5881 power tubes for a Soldano SLO? | The Gear Page

I'm wondering if current production 5881s are just built the same as 6L6GC s?

If buying new tubes for such an application it seems to me that the Tung-Sol 7581A is
probably best since it is rated for the high voltages and the price is not bad at all. I'd
probably put these in my son's Fender that has the plates just over 500V.

SS Amp Reverb Driver ?

I've been working on several small SS amps with reverb and one uses the NJM4558 OP
amp or similar to drive the reverb. The NJM4558 has weak output drive and will do 13Vp
into 2K loads or 6.5 mA (42 mW):
https://www.njr.com/electronic_device/PDF/NJM4558_E.pdf

Found a Peavey and a Fender that use the NJM4560 that does 10 Vp into 400 ohm loads
or 25 mA (120 mW):
https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/294/NJM4560_E-365030.pdf

I wonder if anyone has tried the high current NJM4556A that can do +/-70mA into 150
ohm loads (375 mW), seems that it would be a big improvement:
https://www.njr.com/electronic_device/PDF/NJM4556A_E.pdf

Seems that most amps with a 12AT7 driver do about 1W into the tank, and the NJM4556A
comes close, the dual OP amp could be paralleled for nearly the same power. Seems a
150 to 200 ohm reverb tank would work best with it.

Anyone tried the NJM4556 OP amp?

Why we can't use SMA connector for audio

Hello,

Why we can't use 50 ohm SMA connector on audio board signal line ?

I want to carry audio signal with coax cable from this connector which on my amplifier board to RCA connector on chassis.

[image]Image:sma connector|none[/image]

Will it be negative effect to sound ? Why i can't use 50 ohm connector instead of any other connectors which compatible with audio amp board ?

Qty:2 Hammond 1650E Transformers

Hammond's new 'Easy Wire' design. 8k primary & 0-4-8-16 ohm secondary. Lightly used for 2 months (see pics) in EL84/6BQ5 Push Pull tube amp. Changed design & no longer need.
$150 by check or Paypal. Free ship to lower 48 US. Post any questions.
Thanks for looking,
Jim

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FS: Yamamoto A-09s (amp) & CA-03L (pre), RCA cables

Two beautiful masterworks of Japanese hifi.

Paid ~$7k for each (including shipping & VAT).

Very lightly and lovingly used.

Asking $7k for both, sold as a pair.

Alternately, $4k each.

1m & 2m pairs of Y-LC RCA interconnects (locking). These things are wild, and rare. In fact I can't find them for sale anywhere now.

$200 for a 1m pair
$300 for a 2m pair

Will send pics if you'd like (currently in boxes). I don't have the original boxes, but everything will be meticulously packed for shipping.

Please email me if interested: db@aforara.com

Rob

Dunlap -Clarke Dreadnaught 500 Power/ amp.

Hello to all,
I'm a new member and this is my first thread...
Does anyone have any information on the Dunlap-Clarke Dreadnaught 500 power/amp? The only info I have on this model is that it was made in the U.S.A. circa 78, it was imported to England by Exposure Electronics before they made their own amplification. I believe it delivers about 600watts R.M.S. per channel into a 2ohm load and that's all the info I have on the unit.
Can anyone enlighten me?
Regards
Raymond.😎

Can we equal/improve JBL A130 performance with DIY in same price category ?

newbie question.

Here is review of JBL Stage A130
JBL Stage A130 Review (speaker) | Audio Science Review (ASR) Forum
I was wondering by DIY can we ...
1) match distortion levels ?
2) frequency response sans peak at approx. 1000 to 2000 hz and strong peak at 15khz ?
3) within or equal in same price category ?

Thanks and regards.

Fane FC1502F01 15'' FR drivers in mint condition

hi all,

Original bought an original OEM pair of Fane FC1502F01 from Thomman music in Germany. I mounted 1 time for OB build and put it away back to the original box and moved on with different DIY projects. The pair is in absolute mint condition!!

Selling price is 150 USD + Shipping cost via Paypal to local 48 CONUS

Spec is here:
https://www.fane-international.com/downloads/Fane-FC152F01-DS280417.pdf

There's a whole thread talking about this speaker build
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/308652-15-range-fane.html

I live in San Diego, CA so local pick up is more than welcome to save shipping cost.

This sale is only for US local. No international shipping.

Thanks,
Tom

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Stuff that's so old nobody cares!

Hi, new here. I have been all over the world (on forums) trying to find someone who 'knows' Kef B139 bass speaker units. By 'knows' I mean someone who has rebuilt one of these units, more specifically the early 'racetrack' version. It can be done. I paid to have one done 12 years ago but the repairer is no longer, anyway I want to do it myself. As I say I've tried several forums, tried Falcon Acoustics, who are remanufacturing B139s, but they won't help. Other speaker repairers seem to shy away from them (Wilmslow Audio for instance). I know they cannot be done by 'standard' speaker repair methods but that's part of the fun. So is there anybody in the world who can shed light on this problem please. I wait... But I'm not holding my breath...

portable amplifier

Hi all,

I’m looking for some advice. I’m building some portable speakers for friends based on cheap class-d amps. I’ve designed a simple preamp with a tl074 so they also work with a mic. This is where I ran into trouble.

It turns out the negative supply for the amplifiers is directly connected to the negative signal input. The battery I’m using is the negative rail for my preamp and the amplifier. I'm using the tl074 as an inverting amplifier and a buffer and made a virtual signal ground. This means that when I connect the signal ground for the preamp to the negative input for the amplifier, I’m creating a short-circuit between the negative rail and the signal ground. The preamp bias is then thrown out of whack and it stops working properly. (I hope I explained this well enough for people to understand)


I’m sure I’m not the first running into this problem, but I’m also not certain where to look for a solution. Can anyone here help me with this issue? To me, it seems like I need to isolate the two stages or something, but I could be very wrong. Any tips, further reading or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Telecaster

Krell KAV-250CD mk2

I bought recently second hand KAV250CD mk2, which works very well.
I cleaned the lens using a standard cleaning comercial CD cleaner, and almost immediately after that, I noticed sometimes the CD skips, no matter if it is new or old, printed or recorded.

This made a suspicion to me, that maybe I should change the pickup (or anyway to have one to spare), but I cannot find any information which model is. Asked Krell support, but they (as expected) are sugesting to buy from them, for 200$.

Does anybody have this kind of experience, and does it anybody know which laser pickup unit is inside this model?

Any input appreciated

Dual Reamp Output (Ground Lift Question)

I have an XLR input going into two transformers which is then creating two unbalanced and separate outputs. In order to have a separate ground lift on each, I think that it's fine to have switches (to make/break the ground connection) from the Sleeve of each unbalanced output to XLR Input Pin 1. It seems funny to remove the Ground on an unbalanced connection but with other commercial Reamps that I've seen the Sleeve is disconnected from Pin 1 so technically it should be the same concept.

12 inch woofer in 55 liters from 40 Hz with decent sensitivity

I'm building a new woofer section into my TV unit, and I can either go with a 40 liter enclosure fitting an 8 inch woofer, or a 55 liter enclosure fitting a 12 inch woofer. The latter would of course be best with regards to sensitivity and cone area.

But I'm having trouble finding a fitting 12" woofer that:

- Costs less than ~$150
- Can reach 40 Hz in 55 liters with decent sensitivity
- Can reach ~1500 Hz cleanly

All the ones I've been looking at are either too low sensitivity, or too high to make 40 Hz out of 55 liters. I reckon something around 93 db/w would be perfect, but very few of them out there... At least under ~$150.

Any recommendations?

Small PCB's for Tube PSU (CLC, CLCRC, etc)

I made a few of these PCB's for various PSU configurations.
They are simple and work fine.

Prices:
$10 for single board
$8/ea for 2+ boards.
Prices include shipping and PayPal fees!

From left to right:
1) CLCRC for tube rectifier

2) Cap + 2 diodes for SS rectified full-wave center tap transformer.

3) CLC -- SS bridge rectifier (UF4007), R-C snubber, 2 resistors+cap for elevating heaters to ~1/4 B+. Also can use 2 diodes for CT transformer.

4) Similar to (2) except includes space for "Quasimodo" CRC snubbers, and pads for HT winding.

5) CLCRC with SS rectification

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Threshold A400 amp

Todays WTF : these things are out of a Threshold 400A "cascode class A" amp (I would have called it Cork Sniffer - it has more than a hint of Nelson Pass kitset about it. Anyhoo, it is seriously munted in the silicon dept and uses these as outputs and the 3 (out of 8) survivors in one of the banks has insane Hfe (150ish) - they are not darlingtons. Conversely, the forest of MPSA42/92 doing driver duty have around Hfe 40 or less (all the new ones in my parts bin are well north of 100. Anyone know what a "CLASSA8" is or doesn't it really matter and I can chuck some MJ15024s in there.

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driver board burns resistor

Hi Guys

So I last posted on this same drive board asking for someone to confirm the transistors. I received the new ones today PZTA92 and installed them. I also checked the board and found "2D" transistor shorted. I replaced the 2D and PZTA transistor and them checked the board for any other shorts and solder bridges. Could not fine anything then I switched the amp on and found the a 240R resistor on the drive board burn up.

I removed the board inspected it again for any other faulty components but could not find anything. Replaced the 240R and switched the amp on and again it burnt the 240R.

In the pic the transistor in black was originally shorted and before replacing it I found the 2D in red. After switching the amp on the 240R burnt. This is the same resistor after replacing it burnt again.

Note there is no signal being put into the amp.

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Bypass passive bsc with cap ?

Ok, let’s start with assumptions…………….
Assume a 3” with a flat impedance out to 20k, say 5 ohms.

The driver itself drops 5db or so past 5khz (some tang bands and fostex).
So add some baffle step (resistor and inductor paralleled together), put that in series with the driver.

So, can I add a small cap to that circuit to bring back some highs past 5khz ?
I read something on it years ago………………….

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Seiden switches

Hey all -
I have available 2x seiden switches:

  1. 2 pole 23 position
  2. 4 pole 6 position

These were used in a TVC preamp, which is being upgraded to use relays (so I can use a remote control), so no longer required.

These retail for about $85USD each (so $170 all up), but will let them go for $85USD as a pair.

They are located in Australia, so let me know if you're interested, and we can sort out shipping costs.

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Driver for 30x40x150 tapped horn?

I want to build a tapped horn in a 12"x18"x60" (30cm x 45cm x 150cm) space below my headboard with the opening on one of the small ends.

Could it do 25hz-120 with one bend? Is it long enough? Would it sound smooth?

What drivers would you recommend??

Ive never built a sub before but ive done plenty of woodworking and electronics. I was thinking of osb and pl premium.

How low can you go . . . practically?

I got into a debate with a member who claimed he could hear 5hz.

Bygones.

But the issue got me thinking . . . Many people aim to build subs responding to ultra low, sub audio frequencies but with a digital signal could this exercise possibly be pointless?

Surely MP3 / MP4 encoders will discard sub 20hz input. I surmise that the majority of samplers will do the same.

I'd welcome any information to the contrary.

My Experience building the SV-EQ1616D

I have been a DIY enthusiast for some years now, in the past I have experience building the Elekit TU-8600, a Couple of Audio Note Kits, and refurbished the Lenco L75 Turntable based on PTP6. The article below is my experience in building the Sunvalley SV-EQ1616D phono equalizer. It’s been one of the hardest kits I have built as it is not just point-to-point but also because it has lots of electronics components crammed up within a small footprint.

I ordered the kit from VKmusic, Victor as always has always been the most helpful guy I know with Customer service and response par excellence. The Kit arrived from Canada to Dubai within 3 days. I was super excited to start building the kit, however, I knew I had to read the build guide carefully, study the sequence of the build and have lots of patience.

I started by taking stock of all the components, measured every resistor and capacitors to make sure the values were within range. Once this activity was completed, I knew I was ready to start the build. I followed the same sequence of assembly defined in the build guide. First, the power supply board received the resistors, the diodes, the capacitors, and the terminal blocks, followed by the input selector and the turnover select board.

In my next step, I fixed the transformer, the fuse casing, the switches, the pilot lamp, and the potentiometer. The kit came with a 2 prong IEC male and I replaced it with a 3 prong Furutech IEC Male Inlet which I soldered the ground pin of the IEC to the ground point of the chassis. As I had with me an extra grounding post I replaced the one from the stock. Next, I fixed the lug plates, the tube sockets, and the power supply board and started with the point-to-point wiring, carefully cutting the lengths and making sure it's nicely organized. The stock RCA female jacks were somewhat fragile, so I decide to replace them with KLEI Perfect Harmony RCA Female Jacks. The input selector board followed next.
Soldering of the wires and resistors was a very delicate activity keeping in mind the color legend (blue for firm and orange for partial soldering). I remeasured the resistors, capacitors cut them to proper lengths before attaching them to the lug plates. Believe me, this is a patience job, take your time, check and double-check to assure that you are fixing at the right position. Make sure the legs of the capacitors, resistors are not shorted with other components. A simple mistake would be a real pain to troubleshoot and refix. The final piece was to fix the turnover select board. I was excited that at last after 5 days the kit was complete.

Testing: I popped in the solid-state rectifier (V4) with some old Shuguang 12AX7 tubes (V1, V2) and Mullard 12AU7 (V3) and started measuring the voltage. I was thrilled that my voltage measurement was within range for the V1, V2, however, my joy was short-lived when I tested the V3 cathode terminal I was getting an abnormal voltage measure in the 256V range when the baseline is about 135V. All other voltages (Heater, MC) were within range. I knew at this stage that something was wrong, so I immediately send Victor my readings and within minutes I get a response to check the wiring in the area. As I was already tired and it was a late evening I wrapped up and retired for the night. The next day I started troubleshooting by checking each and every component and solder points meticulously and within hours I was able to pinpoint the issue. Surprisingly the issue was with a black cable that did not show continuity, desoldering the cable and installing another one solved the issue. All measurements were within ranges.

Now the fun part: I replaced the test tubes with Telefunken NOS 12AX7 (V1, V2) and Telefunken NOS 12AT7 (V3) along with the rectifier tube PSVANE WE 274B. Connected the power, put on an LP, set the switches on the phono stage, and pumped up the volume. Immediately I could feel the day and night difference compared to my existing phono stage (ANK L3 phono stage). The soundstage got bigger with tighter bass, amazing 3D imaging, the instrument separation and the details in the music was something I had never felt or heard before. I listened continuously for over 4 hours I was completely immersed in the music giving me goosebumps as I played LP’s after LP’s.

I can never thank Victor enough for the joy this kit has given me. My Precious Jazz collection has come to life. Thank you Victor once again.

Pictures of my build attached

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BA-3 FE Question

I have a BA-3 FE and I do like the sound. Perusing literature about it, I came across the Audio Society of Minnesota (ASM) article about the BA-3 as a preamp here Audio Society of Minnesota - Pass BA-3 Preamplifier

In the article, I read the following

We cut two traces to eliminate ground loop paths on the boards and added a lead to terminate at our chassis star ground. This is not the fault of the design, but these alterations are suggested for use in a single ended application.

I do not have a hum using the preamp driving my M2X, F4, Dynaco, and AKSA amps. I have a little hum when I use my 2A3 and 300B amps. I had been examining the board but I got nothing. I would like to learn which traces on the BA-3 board the article is referring to. Anyone can point me to which traces are those in the board?
Thanks for your help!

Comprehensive resource for comparing DIY speaker kits

I have attempted to create that resource. I have created a database and am including data points from the many popular designs from the many known designer and retailer

Favorite links/resources - E-Zees Crossovers


This spreadsheet is sortable and searchable by any of its columns. It will allow any viewer to compare from amongst all of the databased speaker designs, in one location. You will be able to
-search for kits using a specific brand or model of woofer/tweeter
-sort by speaker size or cabinet size
-sort by price of the bare speakers
-filter between fully published designs and those that require purchase of kit or plans from the designer.

Any data column can be sorted or searched. Are there other data columns I should add?

Currently I plan to host the searchable database on the homepage at ezeescrossovers.com. but it could be moved later once fully developed. If the above image isn't large enough to easily read, you can go straight to that site to see the same preview.

What I'm asking for here is some feedback and recommendations. Looking at that spreadsheet are there other data fields that are critical for this type of compilation? Is this even a resource that anyone else might feel is beneficial? I'd be grateful for some discussion. From my own limited perspective, I've spent countless hours bouncing back and forth from numerous web resources, searching potential speaker models for retail cost, looking at cabinet dimensions, and am hoping that a labor contribution to compile that all into one place might be appreciated.

Please be understanding that this is still under development and the web page itself is also under development. My hope is for assistance in final modification before the searchable database is finalized and published. You will see that the current tabs have designs separated by publicly published designs, unpublished designs purchasable only from the designer, with a third tab for some of the one-off designs which are published but not belonging to major designer or retailer.

Open to your thoughts.

Replacing caps in Threshold S/200

I have a Threshold S/200 amplifier. I don't have any problems with it but since it is 20 years old I'm thinking about replacing the PS capacitors.

The original capacitors are Mallory 15,000 uF, 80V. I found following capacitors in Mallory catalog that fit size-wise and have similar specs:

Code:
Cap (uF) ESR     Ripple   Catalog#       Voltage
17,000   0.033    8.8     CGS173U075W4C   75V
25,000   0.024   11.7     CGS253U075W5L   75V
15,000   0.043    8.6     CGS153U100W5L  100V
30,000   0.011   15.2     CGS303U100W4C  100V

Would any of these work? Should I consider any other brands?

While I'm at it, are there other parts that would be worth replacing? I read somewhere about updating rectifier diod in Threshold amps.

Thanks,
Adam

For the first time, I find myself more interested in amps than speakers.

Don't get me wrong, bad speakers are bad sound no matter what - and I still have a hole I am trying to fill (thinking something like a Zu Audio Dirty Weekend might do it...something a little more 'blank canvas'). However, since getting and playing with tube amps, an ACA build, I am finding myself thinking more about amps and less about speakers.

One direction of thought is the engineering on speakers (anything in the last 20, especially 10 years) from any repeatable brand, be it $100 or $100,000 a pair is just so good compared to the past, and with it, the quality and tolerance of parts (even cheap parts can sound wonderful when used properly).

Another direction of thought is decades ago when I was getting into the hobby, I heard about (I think) the British school of audio, which would mean a $300 pair of bookshelf speakers (from a quality firm, their entry level 2-way model) with a much more expensive integrated amp (maybe something closer to $1,000). This is opposed to the US school of thought which would be getting a great pair of speakers but not as good of an amp.

Anyway, the point being you obviously want good speakers and a good amp...but a bad amp will make good speakers sound bad...but a good amp will help bring out the best in a 'less-good' pair of speakers.

I'm not trying to convince you one way or the other, but after getting into this hobby as a kid, being broke, not being able to afford anything, over the years as I have been able to build up a nice system, afford better gear, I am finding myself researching and looking more at amps and less at speakers as the next step.

Just me, or others feel the same? Or are there other components (preamps, DACs, sources, cables, tweaks, etc.) you find yourself drawn to? For the sake of argument...maybe not touch on turntables, because that is a whole other can of worms (but still feel free to talk about those if you want!)

Advices for wires/parts for "boxing" an Amp

Hi,


Time to go from the lab bench to a nice box for my amp. This is a PCB base, with screw terminql blocks for power and speakers connections. Amp is 2x170W class D, Power voltage is 36V. I consider Speakon connectors as application is active speakers.


Boxing amps is an exercice that I'm pretty bad at, and would like to do better this time. Opportunity to learn !



Could you help me define the adequate wire gauge for power and speaker connection ?


Is some type of wire/insulation adviced (something not too exotic or difficult to find) ?


Are there some parts to consider for the Power cord connection ?


Are some accessories / tools helpful for boxing such amps ?


All advice welcomed,


Best regards,


JMF

Light Bulb Tester

Rangefinder writes that "Dim Bulb Tester" is more historically accurate. see post #38

A "Light Bulb Tester" is often suggested when testing a new or modified circuit. But it often takes much searching to find the tester. So below is a schematic and photos. I built the tester out of spare parts. I'll let others clarify using the tester.

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Unclear section in WM8471 implementation datasheet

Hello diyaudio forum!



I'm in the process of planning and designing a DAC based on the WM8471, and there was a section i need a bit of help understanding, it's what looks like an unused/missing pins on the highlighted sections? it is rather unclear so if anyone with a bit of experience could help that would be amazing


WM8471 buffering section - Album on Imgur

Need advice on grounding strategy for a modular DAC

Hi,

As stated, I need advice on grounding strategy for a modular DAC project I'm working on. Let me explain.

Say we have a DAC board, a closely connected I/V board, a power supply board, a digital inputs board and a uController board in a metal enclosure. What would be the best way of connecting those components ground and noise wise?

I was thinking of providing separate ground wires for each of the modules at the power entry point of said modules to a common "star ground" and from there to the power entry/filter module's ground connector. Of course the enclosure would be grounded too. Matter of safety as I have red.

Any thoughts and help would be appreciated.

Best regards, Kovaxant

Can some one explain me this amp?

Hi, I stumbled acros this amp and I like to understand it.
I do not have it on the nbench any more so I can't give more details as given now.
It's a commercial design and I do not wish to disclose the manufacturer.

Here is a link:
http://docs.google.com/Present?docid=ddmq8v3q_8cdhv7fcr&invite=4dc5vw
But if you like mail me and I send you a good copy in pdf format.

1. If you look at the PSU, Where is the ground?
Are Q12 and Q15 setup to create a virtual ground?
2. Q14 and Q17 must be the power stage and Q5, Q18 the drivers.

At the moment I received the amp.
PSU part:
fuse F2 was gone.
R26, R73 of the -15V burned.
AMP part:
R16, 17 and Q5 gone.

After replacing this is what I noticed:
D16 is not lit (LED is OK)
+15V is present at R44. +1.8 over D16.
+20.9V at J1 with no load connected.
0V with load.

Why is D16 not ON?
Voltage to low but why?
I checked the parts around D16 and they are all OK.
All other power supp;y voltages measured normal.


What else can be said about this design.

Powering two PSU from one Transformer

Hello,

Is it fine to power two PSU from same transformer(different voltages)[book=]%[/book]. Please see image.

Transformer is 1000VA ( Transformer secondary wires are 2.5 sq mm)
0-28-36
0-28-36
Diode - GBPC3506 - four

Need to run two different PSU from same transformer(different voltages)

Is it fine to to connect 0V wire to two diodes as show in Image. This is for F5T v2(Mono) and Aleph2 (Mono) fed from same transformer.

Thank you

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NAD 3240PE Purchase Dangerous!

Have a look at this.I brought this unit and is in realy excellent condition.I havent checked it over yet, but it does turn on.
good job i always check things before i plug them in.

have a look at this,beggars belief realy how someone wasn't killed or injured😱

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Open Baffle Speakers by Irkiosan

Hey there, this is a dedicated thread on my open baffle speakers. The speakers are quite easy to build, easy to tweak or upgrade, and they are pretty decent especially for the cost.

In the following posts, I'll provide details on the speakers, so you can replicate them and/or discuss with me about how to improve the speakers.

Disclaimer: I'm a recreational speaker builder with no commercial intensions. The present speakers are considered by me as being in beta phase. They are definitely ready to rock and I'm listening exclusively on them for almost a half year now. I will provide my wishlist of improvements along the journey here.
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