How long befre the Pot is passed switch cleaner ? ?

I was at a house clearance place I visit every friday and saw this .. liked it and bought untested for £20. It I know it needs an new stylus but it does play records .. auto drop works etc.

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After a nice soak with Servisol Super 10 the hum and crackle on the volume pot has gone. The left speaker sounds great but I think the balance pot is beyond saving. As you see it 75% over to the right before I get balance and the right speaker is a bit muffled but not bad.
It could be speaker, it may be going. If I turn the balance all the way to the right and crank up the power its loud.
But the balance pot is loose.
I'm thinking I need to replace it, what do the tech's think?

Crossing over a tweeter to a full range driver at 6 DB?

Good morning everyone..I had no idea were to post this topic but, here? I am looking at putting a capacitor on a tweeter at 6 DB on my speakers with a full range driver. I keep reading that the calculators online really don't know what they're doing and they can do the crossover wrong because you're not measuring them or measuring the drivers? I have a few programs I paid for that I can use..The driver am using is full range but, I want it not just for cosmetic looks but also for little bit of Sparkle On Top. Please let me what you think? Jeff

Topping D30

Hello,

I have an old modified CD player REGA Planet and i have bought an second hand DAC to connect digital gadgets to my rega amp and my totem arro.
Wen i connect the DAC, i notice some lack of Mids , its define and clinical but doesn't give me natural sound has the CD player DAC.
The Topping D30 have an OPA2134, what is you suggestions?
I have seen some reviews OPA627,OPA1622, MUSES8920,SOUND OPAMP V5i , MUSES02.


Or it will be better to throw away the topping.

thank you

req. suggestions for re-purpose / salvage damaged LCD TV

Hello,

My 32 inch LCD TV's screen/panel got damaged and its not showing up picture well. Service guy told its not reparable and only option is to replace the LCD panel, with its cost and panel availability in question, its better to go for new TV.

Is there anything interesting we may make out of this TV, re-purpose or salvage any parts in it to make something useful.
We may get couple of speakers, but again it will be difficult to plan for a box for them without its specifications (ts parameters).

While looking in youtube/internet only thing i found so far is to re-purpose it as a big bright lamp, which is not much interesting or worth with the size of lamp we will be getting.
Is there any thing else we can do with it.

Diy bench power supply snag help

I built this power supply years ago. Its 0-50V and 0-4Amp.
Its been serving me well.
I recently built a mosfet amplifier and decided to test it with my dual bench power supply.
I connected an 8ohm load and 1khz input signal to the amp, and powered it up.
Works great until i reach a certain output level. Then my bench supplies start dropping the voltage and my current limit drops down to 2 Amps from 4 amps.
I did notice that if I bypass the current sense resistor R8 with a piece of wire, the current shoots back up and I regain my full 50v output.
This tells me that there is an issue with the current limit circuit.
I can see a slight oscillation equal to the 1khz fed into the power amp input on the supply rails of my power supply.
I suspect that this is feeding into my current control circuit.
Is there a way to fix this on my circuit??. See attached.
I know its not a fault on my amp board as it powers and works fine on a commercially bought power supply.
Thank you!!

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8 channel audio, no idea where to start

Hey!

I am trying to get a low cost solution to play 8 independent audio streams over speakers.

I have been looking at the Octo Audio for the Rasp Pi, but I am mystified at how it works...

The idea I am working towards is having 8 speakers playing different .wav files (or 1 wav file with 8 channels). The 8 channels are going to have different delays built into them so they are being played at different times.

From an audio processing standpoint the way I understand it is:
1. There is the Pi audio processing that gets the signal to the RCA outputs.
2. The signal then gets sent to the speakers and it plays the music.

I think I have been able to read up on #1 and think I can get the audio sent to the RCA outputs, but I am not sure I understand #2.

I am really struggling to understand how much power I can deliver to 8 small speakers. Do I need to put inline amplifiers to each speaker?

Is there a better way to cheaply deliver 8 unique channels to 8 unique speakers?

Soldering Iron/Station

I'm in the market for a new soldering iron. Something for doing simple crossover work and possibly some diy amp building and repair work in the near future.
The iron I have was a hand-me-down Weller WTCPN, I believe it's an early 80's unit that's seen better days. I'm looking for something a little more ergonomical.
I've set my budget around $150 USD or so. Models I've considered are the Hakko FX888D, Weller WE1010, KSGER T12, and the TS100, TS80P type irons. I'm also open to other suggestions as well.

6h30n-dr tube tester

Hi, I'm checking some 6h30n-dr valves of my bat vk51se preamplifier with an EICO MODEL628 tube tester with the specifications of the 6922 valve and they all give me good in the area of more than 80 life, but when I put them in it makes me noise when lowering and raise the volume or mute or change fonts.
I've bought macheted sovtek valves and they don't make any noise, but the sound isn't as good as the DRs.
Would there be some way to find out which valves are wrong with the EICO tube tester or in some other way.

Transformer supply for Tentlabs filament supply

Hi. I'm looking at buying the Tentlabs filament supply for my amp project. The Tentlabs website says that each unit should have a separate transformer secondary though. My current PT only has one available 6.3V winding, but it's rated for 5A. Is there any reason I can't connect both units to this in parallel?

As an alternative, I also have a spare transformer with a centre tapped 12.6V secondary. Is it possible to use the centre tap to make this behave like two 6.3V secondaries?

vintage kenwood amp help

Hello, i have a friend that gave me an old kenwood kr 3400 from the 70´s. i liked the sound and since is a simple to get the main boards out and i had caps at home, i made a recap on the power supply and on the main board after i dowloaded the schematic.
When i looked at the schematic i found the the bass and treble controls are connected to the negative feedback of the amp. i´m trying to find a way to disconnet them to bypass the tone control pots but i need some help.
I don´t know if i took off the first input 6.8uf cap and the 6.8uf output cap from the tone controls block will to the trick.
i tried only disconnect the negative feedback pin 5 and 6 on the main amp and i have more gain and also litle noise mixed with music.
the ideia is to bypass the tone controls and maintaining the amp linear.
thanks.

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Adjustable Cathode Bias with TL431

I just want to share a mod of cathode bias, that I have good results on my Dynaco SCA-35. It will be equivalent to "fixed bias" without the need of negative power rail.

You need one this mod for each single tube, so that you can adjust bias point of each single tube.

Q1 needs to be medium power transistor such as DB140 to dissipate the heat.

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Fane 12-250TC vs FC152 (15-300TC)

Hello.

I just made some boxes for the Fane 12-250TC, and after running some sweeps and hooking up a regular minidsp 2x4, tried running them in a bit and do some listening to see what's the difference between these things.

The room I tried the 12"s in had some issues, but after applying 6 bands of EQ I was able to get fairly even response, and while remaining within limits of power supply, amps, minidsp and the drivers themselves, I get nice even response and can play around 105db from low-ish bass region and up at ca 1.5 meters.

The boxes are about 120liter BR/TL pending on definition, I applied a 35hz 48db/oct BW HP filter to keep the drivers safe.
I put some melamine foam and metal grilles in front of the drivers. I will probably ponder a bit the amount and placement of foam, as I feel there are some minor improvements to be made.

Here is a sweep using a somewhat agressive "house curve" (that I actually decided to remove afterwards, no measurements sans "house curve" sorry!), sweeps are roughly 0-10-25-40 degrees in a rather noisy enviroment (close to road).

Sounds great, a tiny bit hot at 0degrees like the 15", so far I prefer the 15" overall, tiny difference.

Will be back with more later on. Maybe more measurements in a week.

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Variac buying advice needed, safety concerns

I've been thinking about buying a variac for servicing tube amps.

I live in Finland where we have 230V line voltage. I've been looking at these devices on german ebay. My main concern is safety.

What do you think about this one?

s-l400.jpg


Those screw in banana terminals look quite scary to me. OTOH the device is in a neat looking box. Some other ones seem to have like a US type wall socket. That doesn't help much here in the EU.

Here are some of the options if anyone is interested:
variac | eBay

Rockford Fosgate Power BD1000.1 issues

Rockford Fosgate Power BD1000.1 - works, produces sound but...

There is something like a switching noise at the output speaker terminals (can be heard really well even with a subwoofer mounted in the trunk).

Another concern is Q13, Q14, Q15 and Q16 are getting extremely hot in a very short time. Is that an indication of an issue or it is "factory" like that ? I can replace the heatsinks and use a bigger ones but that would not resolve anything if there is an actual issue.

Any guides ?

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FS: Ortofon SPU (AlNiCo, Line Contact)

Hello,

I need to downsize my collection therefore I am selling my Ortofon SPU (ALNICO magnet) nude, but I am selling it with an adapter to make it usable in standard headshells.

Specifications
Tracking force: 20mN
Tracking ability: 90 micron/20mN/315Hz lateral
Stylus: Line Contact III
Cantilever: boron
Coils: copper (original)
Coil impedance: 1,9 Ohms/ch DC
Damper: new (silicone)

After the rebuild it has been barely used (less than 5 hours) and the cartridge has just been checked and cleaned by Ana Migthy Sound before the sale to ensure that the new owner will have a trouble-free playback.

Asking price: EUR 800 plus shipping

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FS:DCB1 Salas built with top components

Unit works perfectly although some refinement work need to be done for aligning better both the volume control and the switches. Rotating the control is not perfect as there is a slight misalignment between the switches rods and the Elma selector and volume attenuator. the attenuator works smoothly but the selector switch has some noise. I bough this for a fellow one year ago and he planned to re-case it in a new chassis. I bought it as is and due to transport issues I had to replace the 4 fast recovery diodes and with all the tight tolerances I could only reposition one of the cooling heatsink at 45 degrees. As said you can use the unit as it sounds perfectly but if you are a perfectionist you will not tolerate this. This is a 650mA unit
List of components:
Acoustic dimension attenuator, 41 steps (only this costs 150 Eur)
Elna selector
Jupiter Cu foil and wax coupling caps
Riken ohm and shinkoh
silver wiring
4 Inputs and 2 outputs
100Va trafo.

Will sell without the chassis bottom cones as too expensive and what to keep them.

Chassis is basic as you can see as the plane was to rehouse it., I put two stickers on front panel to make it nicer, they comes from my modular electronic activities.

Ship in Europe only and beware UK buyer will have probably to pay duties due to Brexit.
Toroid wired for 230 Volts.
Price 400 obo, shipping included
Paypal is fine

Revox B226 issues

I have a Revox B226 with issues. It powers up, the tray operates smoothly and the CD starts to load. The spindles starts up and spins for a few seconds, no track info displays and then the spindle stops. I have read a few threads here and started to pursue some of the suggestions. So far I have downloaded the service manual and schematics and cleaned/inspected the inside of the unit.

I plan to clean the laser, check the adjustment of the torx screw under the motor and check the condition of the electrolytic caps. I started by trying to inspect the 5 electrolytics that are supposed to be on the drive board under the unit. I found that my drive board does not have 5 EL caps and the board says Studer instead of Revox. I have included some pictures. Can someone tell me which transport I have and if this unit has been previously repaired or did they commonly mix circuit boards between Revox and Studer markings? Also, how do you suggest that I proceed? I have a scope and good electronics knowledge but this is my first CD player repair.

Thanks,

George

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Which 10" driver for 4m TL?

Hey Guys,

I'm planning to build my first sub and it will be TL of around 4m length. 😀
My goal is to add the really low frequencies to my audio system: like down to around 15 Hz. I'm not looking for extreme SPL (I have neighbors), but quality sound.
I have a corner in my room to fit a tower shape of around 30 cm width and 30 cm depth, 240 cm tall. Because of the width, a 10" will be the max size.
Within the 240 cm I can easily make a very long TL with just 1 fold.

First try in Hornresp with a Seas 10" on 125 Watts:

attachment.php


First question is: which driver should I take?
I think I have 2 reasonable options I can afford:
SEAS XM001-04_L26ROY for E 250,=
Dayton Audio UM10-22 for E 230,=
What do guys think of these? Any experiences?

I think about a Crown XLS 1002 to amp it. Enough power (1100 Watt bridged on 4 Ohm) and a very usefull adjustable lowpass filter. So I won't need to build a passive crossover in my sub.

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Alpine PMX-F640 pre-drive issues

Hi mates

Alpine PMX-F640 stays in protect.
Defeating the protection circuit turns on the PS section, but there is -7v DC offset on all of the speaker terminals even without the output BJTs.

Found something in the pre drive circuit is not OK, picture attached. Instead of +30v at the + line there is -7.4v dc. Any help would be appreciated to fasten the process to find the issue.

Schematic is in the attached file.

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Which order to apply room correction tools?

I am now at the point where I want to try some equalization, timing, etc. My system is 2.1 with 3 subwoofers. My DAC/preamp is a MiniDSP SHD, so I can do all of the DSP filtering these tools offer. It also includes DIRAC. What is the best sequence to apply these tools: e.g. B, A, D, C, etc.?

A. Front Speaker placement, with help from "Rational Speaker Placement" (Sumiko Method)
B. Multi-Sub Optimizer (MSO)
C. DIRAC
D. Sub placement - crawl method or ??
E. REW - frequency response filtering
F. REW - timing and phase adjustments
G. Room treatment

Thanks

Sunfire HRS-8 resistor identification

Im working on a Sunfire HRS-8 that suddenly decided to stop working. No power or standby light. Its not the usual humming, pops, etc that affects many Sunfire subs. Pulled the plate amp and everything seems normal accept there are afew SMD resistors on the standby board (one in paticular that looks charred). I cannot read the resistance and was hoping someone might be able to sneak a peak at their amp if they have one available. The resistors in question are R438 and R439 on the standby board...R439 appears to be the worst shape. This would be sooo much easier if carver would just publish the schematics. Pictures attached. Thanks

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Lm7809 hiss noise

Hi, i am building regulated power supply for guitar effect (compressor).

There is a bridge rectifier (db107) and a cap (4700uF).
The regulator has 220nF at input anf 100nf at output.

There is no hum, but a sibstantial hiss when I run the effect. Putting another 4700 uF at the regulator output reduces the hiss, but still something remains.

There is no hiss if I power the effect with a 9v battery.
Changed the electrolytic caps, but hiss remains.
What could be wrong?

Can I reduce noise further, if cascade 7812 and 7809 in series? (7812 feeding 7809)

Regards

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very low wattage power stage question

Hi all,

I have been searching the forum for wisdom on designing an output stage that does not favor maximizing wattage, but understandably there are many more threads dedicating to squeezing the most out of each tube. Several years ago I built an Aikido preamp with 6sn7s and provided them with a generous PS. I wondered the other day if I could use that unused B+ to supply an unimposing pair of output tubes. The transformer HV secondary is rated for 150mA and the 4 preamp tubes use around 40mA all together. Would it be possible or advised to fit a pair of, say, 6l6s in there so they draw no more than 40mA each and still sound good? The Aikido provides a lot of voltage gain, I have efficient speakers, and I plan to listen at modest volumes near by. I love the idea of adding an output stage for the price of 2 tubes, OPTs, and a handful of small components. Am I dreaming? If not, what tubes should I consider, and are there any simple schematics that lend themselves to this objective?

Thanks for your suggestions.

Passdiy Pearl 2 Phono stage

Built it late last year. I guess not much description is needed here. I used the same enclosures 6L6 used in the build thread, but silver in color. Umbilical with XLR connectors using Kimber wire. power supply using the diy audio store PS board.
Inform me if it would be for MC or MM cartridges so the appropriate input parameters are soldered. Would be shipped via USPS priority $700.00 plus shipping.

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Ross RE-270 Headphones

I was rummaging through some boxes at home and came across a pair of Ross RE-270 headphones I last used maybe 35 or more years ago. I seem to recall they were quite good at the time but needed the right amplifier to do justice to them; otherwise they were not very loud.

Does anyone know what is the input spec for those headphones? Impedance, power, etc.? Are they transformer-inputs? Does anyone have a spec sheet they could scan?

What is the best way to drive them?

Like I say, it's 35, maybe 40 years, since I last used them and had a suitable amp for them. I'm curious to see how they've survived and whether my memory of the sound quality is correct. The amps I now have at home don't have headphone sockets; plugging them into a Samsung tablet, the sound is not loud but seems very clear throughout the frequency range.

Project management software to access apps

Hi,

I guess some of you actually use project management tools to keep track of your projects and outstanding actions, especially if you, like me, work on several projects in parallel.

Free PM software comes in abundant quantities, but I have not found one that does one thing that is important to me.

Say that in a project you have a schematic design that you keep improving, a sim file for LTspice, and maybe another for the final PCB layout.

What I want is something like a dashboard for the project that shows me the status of actions, as well as a filename or link that I can click to bring up the schematic tool, update the design and exit, without having to leave the PM dashboard and to upload the new schematic somewhere.

I know, it doesn't sound like rocket science but I can't find any that allows this.

Any ideas?

Jan

America cup and Eurocup defined by penalties

Argentina beat Colombia 4-2 and plays the final against Brazil.

Argentina 1 (3) VS 1 (2) Colombia | PENALES + RESUMEN COMPLETO HIGHLIGHTS | Semifinal | Copa America - YouTube

Italy beat Spain 4-2 and plays the final of the European Championship against England or Denmark.

ITALIA, FINALISTA 🔥🇮🇹 Italia vs Espana (1-1) (4-2 penales) - Semifinales | Eurocopa 2020 - YouTube

What a coincidence !


You can see the penalties in these summaries, in our case, the hero was goalkeeper Emiliano Martínez, he contained three shots from the opponents !!!

"shy" display on HK receiver

"shy" display on HK receiver (SOLVED)

I recently got a Harmon Kardon AVR 1435 receiver. Everything seems to function OK, radio / cd player etc, although I don't have all the speakers hooked up. As can be seen the receiver display fades quickly about 3 sec after it turns on. When the display is off every thing still works and the display "wakes up" again when I rotate the knob or push a button on the remote. About 3 secs later the display falls to sleep again. As can be seen when the display goes blank, the blue light on the volume knob also goes to sleep.

Is this something a non technical diy person fix or will I have to bear with this?

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Using amplifier with JBL flip 4/5

Hi,

I am a complete newbie in this audio stuff, so please sorry me if I say something stupid.

I have a JBL flip 4 and when I connect my accoustic guitar to it, the sound is very good and has a good volume. My accoustic guitar has a pretty common 9v battery pre amplifier. However when I connect my guitar to the JBL flip, the sound is reaaaaly low, almost no sound! Of course, my guitar has no 9v battery connect to it and no pre amplifier.

I cannot afford an amplifier so I was wondering if I could use something like PAM8610 to connect to my JBL flip 4? It's a very cheap amplifier and I see people all around the internet connecting this 2x10W board to speakers of many sizes. However I dont know if I can connect it to my JBL Flip 4, I am afraid of damaging it.

You see: I usually connect my accoustic guitar and my smartphone to the JBL flip 4 using the input jack (p2). Does using an amplifier will increase the voltage in the p2 input jack? Or it will only chnge the current?

Thank you so much

Kiebert Amplifiers

M. V. Kiebert of Indianapolis Indiana
Not a name you here all the time.

https://www.pearl-hifi.com/06_Lit_Archive/02_PEARL_Arch/Vol_01/Sec_01/065_Dsgn_Fctrs_for_PwrAmps.pdf

In Particular is the very last amp on the page.
Designed for the BBC no less.
It's a 100 watt continuous amplifier using a quad of 300Bs
Into a FREED 18777 output transformer.
Sadly there are NO component figures given in Mr Kieberts schematic.

Now here's the part that gets me.
How can you get a 100 watts out of a quad of 300Bs?
In the paragraphs above the schematic he references a 200 watt short burst peak power.

I found this site after reading what our friend Lillenthal wrote about Kiebert here:
100 Amplifiers, part 2 , 1945 – 54 | Lilienthal Engineering

100 Amplifiers, part 2 , 1945 – 54 | Lilienthal Engineering

I'll paste his write up below,



Kiebert’s 45 W Williamson, 1954,

Very cool designer – top class circuits – one of the few at my top 5 list. Yet , Kiebert is as good as unknown in the DIY community as well as elsewhere…..This is sad in my opinion, because Kiebert was so much ahead of the others at the time and still to this day his circuits are way better than the 99%. I wonder why nobody discusses his circuits and why no one has copied or learned from these master class designs…?

Anyway – Kiebert was a hardcore Williamson fan. He did not use any of the values from the original circuit – he hardly used anything at all, except the circuit blocks. Kiebert was fast to spot the weaknesses in the components and feedback scheme of the Williamson, but also to recognise that the circuit itself was close to ideal. . When we look at the circuits of Kiebert we can actually sense that these are circuits of high technical insight and that they are very carefully designed. Nothing is random or made from what was at hand. Starting at the input, Kiebert uses a 100 k Ohm pot ! ..Now this is in the mid 1950’s and some 30-40 years ahead in time. So much better that the usual 0.5 to 1 M or more, that was common way up to relative recent.. Then he uses the 12AY7 instead of the usual 12AX7. This alone improves all merits of the amplifier, from noise to freq response. Then a 5687 as driver, which provides a lot of headroom, in fact oceans of such compared to 12AX7, 12AT7, 6SN7 etc. This is indeed very clever and again way ahead from the usual at that time, even compared to 90% of today’s driver topology. Kiebert always used 12AY7 as input and phase splitter, followed by a 5687 as the driver. This is a combination that I have learned to value and used from time to time myself. But Kiebert does not stop there. He really wants the power and juice out of that driver – hence the cathode follower…..same headroom 5687. And why not avoid the AC coupling, drive directly and bias at the same time…. [​IMG]

Kiebert continues the tour de force and wants to hold that cathode follower tight by Voltage regulation from a 12BH7. Do also note the clever filament scheme, the use of swinging choke input, and two parallel 5V4/GZ34 for best possible regulation and soft start to prolong tube life. I wonder why he used the filter constants to bypass the plate resistor at the input and to the grids of the 5687. I am also a little puzzled by the 82 Ohm resistor at sg2 of the 807’s. Why not a 100 Ohm ? But then with Kiebert I just know there is a good reason and I won’t question this. I am amused by the weird way Kiebert draws his circuits. Don’t you just love these miles long resistors ? I have redrawn the circuit a little as it was kind of a mess….I spotted an error in the circuit while doing so, that I felt was amusing, hence I left it there….. Do you see it ?

I will give you a hint….Look at the PSU…..

Yup , Kiebert uses solid state to supply the negative bias. That is good engineering too….Have you found the mistake….?……These two solid state diodes are turned 180 degrees….The negative side faces to the AC instead of the bias…. He he…..

Sadly this model is a class B design, however all we need to do is to adjust it in to the class A area and we are all flying.

Apparently Kiebert fancied the 807’s as most of the designs I know from his hand uses these. He did make a 70 Watt 6146 PP and a 100 Watt 4 x 300B PP for BBC.
Kiebert took a few cool audio power amp patents in 1959 as well.

Kiebert you were a sleeper’t, but now you are a keeber’t……I hope that I have hereby printed your name into the history of audio technology.

Hats off to Kiebert.

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Tube filaments (heaters) power supply

Hi, all!

Everyone makes its out version of the PSU for the filaments (heaters) - 100 designs for one problem. Let's gather "powers"/experiences...
Let's say we are dealing with ECC88 (6922) - 6.3V and we have 2 tubes, using DC.
What's the "best" way to do it:
- in series (both get the same current)
- in parallel (both get the same voltage, but current is higher - harder to stabilize DC)
- separate (both get... well different - this is why I do not like this, since one channel can play louder due

How to regulate power? CRC? Or the best - battery 🙂 Is battery worth trying? 🙂

Thanks,
Matej

Flat impedence curves for SET

As I understand it SET amps in particular do best with well behaved (flat) impedance loads. Is this primarily an issue in the bass and mid-range area? Specifically would a tweeter circuit that presents a rather high and/or rising impedance be a problem? My assumption is that the impedance concerns are primarily in the high energy parts of the spectrum but knowing what the first three letters in assume spell I want to be sure that there are not stability issues or something that I had not considered.

Variant EAR 859

Hi Guys, I started to build an amplifier similar to EAR 859 but without any negative reaction and after the test the results are excellent, practicaly at anoutput power of 15w THD are 3% THD and 12w the distorsions are less than 1,6% measured with analog devices but also with the ARTA program. The harmonic distribution up to 10w is close to that of an SE amplifier with 300b whics is encouraging and if possible please someone skilled in simulations to check these results if necessary i can provide adiditional data, thanck you

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Big Green Subwoofers (not serious).

I was comparing graphics cards for my HTPC when I noticed the specs included the annual running cost of the card. I was disgusted to find that a graphics card upgrade could add $100 to my electricity bill. This led me on a very random thought process in support of my hatred of small drivers with a large Xmax.

My mind travelled to the incandescent light bulb which as virtually banned in all developed countries due to their inefficient nature. An LED requires 8 watts to produce the same output as a 60w traditional bulb.

This brings me back to the subject of small subwoofers. The Panasonic SB-HW560 boasts an SPL of 78dB, effectively meaning it needs around 50 watts to produce the output volume a good 12" sub can with just 1 watt.

For the sake of the planet small subs should be banned.

SigmaStudio Tutorial with the 3e Audio DSP

I have tried to stay away from the whole concept of a DSP in my system but I finally caved in. The DSP from 3e Audio seemed versatile and well built so I bought one with the intention of using it as an active crossover and Linkwitz Transform. I quickly saw the potential and found the DSP a bit underutilized as just a crossover. It is currently used as the preamp, headphone PEQ and speaker EQ in my latest integrated. New use-cases keeps popping up the more I learn about SigmaStudio and the DSP.

I wish there would have been some sort of holistic primer or tutorial that could have gotten me up to speed but I could not find one. I have therefor started to sum up my experiences in a series of blog posts, tutorial style. I hope it can be of use for the ones starting out with SigmaStudio and a DSP (especially the one from 3e Audio).

You find the "tutorial" on my blog, here is a link to part 1: SigmaStudio Tutorial Part 1.

Need help, subwoofers not working

Hello all I need some installation help, I have 2 amps and a 7 band pre amp controller. The #1 amp controls the front and rear speakers which is working fine. The #2 amp powers the subs, has power but no sounds at the subwoofers, here is my wiring, what am I missing?

Thanks in advance.

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Question about relocating choke inside amp chassis

I have an amp remodel project. The current physical configuration has the power supply choke mounted on the top of the chassis, and two output transformers mounted inside the chassis. i am remodeling such that I'll be using two larger OTs which will not fit underneath. They need to go on top, but it will be mighty crowded or possibly not doable if I keep the choke on top without making a new plate for remounting the rectifier tubes and can cap as well.



If reasonable I'd rather relocate the choke underneath where the OTs were.



Is there any problem with relocating the choke where the existing OTs are located inside the chassis?

Common emitter / source amplifiers, rail to rail output voltage swing

What is your oppinion about common emitter / source amplifiers? I have designed a relatively simple circuit for a common source amplifier for home HiFi purpose. I like the almost rail to rail output voltage swing leading to lower rail voltages for a certain output power and less power dissipation.

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From left to right it consists of an input filter, a noninverting opamp circuit, a booster stage and a snubber circuit. The input filter blocks the dc and hf /rf. The opamp is used for the generation of the control currents of the booster stage. It has no output connection to the booster stage. The booster stage is controlled by the power rail currents of the opamp generating voltage drops across R4 and R5. It contains an adjustable current source (LM334, R8 is a trimmer) to set the quiescent current of the booster stage. The power MOSFETs M1, M2 are thermally stabilized by use of source resistors R9, R10 and large heat sinks (Rth = 10 K/W) in order to keep the channel temperatures between 50 and 100 °C.


fft.jpg


The calculated FFT shows impressive THD of less than -60 dB. The quiescent current is set to 50 mA. Usually common emitter / source amplifiers tend to generate higher distortion levels compared to emitter / source follower amplifiers. For BJT booster stages I have also measured higher THD in the order of 1% at maximum Prms.

ER Audio ESL Panel Kit Review

I’d like to share my blog post where I review ER Audio’s ESL Kit.

ER Audio ESL Panel Full Test – Joseph Crowe

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JLH 1996 10 watt class A amplifier module.

JLH 1996 class A aaudio power amplifier version with MJ15003 outputs.
Biased to comsume 10 watts but can be increased depending on which heat sink you use.
I have 3 off up for sale.
Requires a +/-15VDC power supply and a 0.5 degrees C/watt heatsink.


£18 each plus one lot of p+p per batch.
p+p is £4.20 to UK £12 to Europe and £18 to rest of world.
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2SK180 mounting ideas

I want to have an idea of where and how I am going to mount the 2SK180's before I start designing a PCB. The THF-51's and 2SK182es seem to be pretty straight forward but the 2SK180 looks a little wonky to mount. I would love to hear your thoughts and ideas!

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Rockford Fosgate punch 120.2

Hello
I have some trouble with this amplifier (rockford fosgate punch 120.2).

First the two mosfet(Q7 and Q6) for the power supplies was out and the mosfet for one channel was out died too (Q219 and Q215).

After changing them by irf9640 for the irf9540 and irf 640 for the irf 540 the amplifier power up good but i have some noise with the amplifier output that i change the mosfet.

I have 1.20v to the output.

Did someone have the schematic please?

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LM3886 MyRef C Support

Hi All,
Hope you all are having a good time there.
I am new to this forum with a handful of diy ambitions 🙂

Recently I have met one of my friends who owns MyRef Revision C of LM3886 amp, and I was totally surprised with sound quality. Tried then in the local market for the same pre-assembled one, but had no luck.
After going through this forum, got enough confidence to build it by my own. I am not a electronics graduate, however I know the basics of electronics and how analogue electronics works. [Between I have assembled few amps before using the pre-assembled chip boards, I know that is not enough to excel in audio electronics].

Now my requests to everyone are-
1. Is there any well designed PCB layout and its BOM of MyRef Revision C available so that I can make a board out of it.
2. Or else, please refer any shops which are located in Bangalore, India.
3. If MyRef version requires a pre-amp (probably with tone controls), please suggest a good design which do not degrade sound.

I would really appreciate your support in making this project as memorable one 🙂

Thank you.
Sha

Modification of low frequent (5-100Hz) speaker set up

Hi all,

I'm quite new to audio and all. For my study I'm currently looking into a set up, which we want to modify.

The current set-up consists of a loudspeaker, pneumograph (measures pressure and flow) and a mouthpiece. The mouthpiece is designed for tidal breathing so that the vibrations generated by the loudspeaker are superimposed over the breathing. This gives information about the lung properties. This is visualized here. The set up is connected to a computer via a box with probably an AD converter and...? The current setup is controlled from software and in which no adjustments of the signal possible is.

We want to be able to determine the amplitude and frequency of output signal ourselves and then also process the signal of what has been measured by the pneumograph. That's why we want to adjust the hardware of the setup.

It is the intention that everything can be controlled and read via MATLAB. The sound waves must have a frequency range of 5-100Hz and an amplitude of 10-15 cmH2O (300-500 Pascal in an open tube and 1000-1500Pa with a patient attached (closed tube with resistance at one side and patient at the other side). (this factor of 3 already exists in the current set-up (although I'm unsure if it remains linear)). These are approximately 10 times higher amplitudes than in the current set-up

Because I am fairly new to the sound domain myself, I would like tips on how I can best create such a new set-up cost-efficiently. What equipment would you recommend?

Would you continue to work with the old analog speaker (which already is used in another project to create waves with the intended amplitudes) and connect an amplifier to magnify te signals, or would you use an oscilloscope in combination with the same old speaker. Another option might be to replace the analog speaker with a digital one with an internal amplifier? The current analog speaker has a db9/com port as output.

I think that especially the low frequency range is a point of attention. So what equipment would be sufficient for this?

Someone advised a class D amplifier. But I did not fully understand what the disadvantages are. Something about a DC offset that could damage the speaker. Can somebody help me to understand the basics of that?


Complicated question, but I hope someone can help me. Thanks in advance!

A Work in Process

I'm putting together a drive card intended to drive a couple of sets of TO-3 lateral fets for about 100W/channel. I have some nice heat sinks that take two TO-3 packages apiece, so four of them would work for a stereo amplifier.

I may make some changes in the architecture and stuffing (mosfets for diff pairs instead of bipolar?). Instead of using a single master current source to bas the differential pairs, I may use a couple of ring-of-two sources (slightly more simple). I'll be filling in more values as I continue.

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Weird issue with amp gain???

My neighbor sold me a 99 2D Accord with 2.3l V-tec. It already has a JVC KD-S29 head unit installed. When I put the gain about a quarter way up my subs start pushing in and out at a low frequency. When that happens my voltage drops to as low as 9 volts. There's also a faint hum coming from the subs if I switch to full range. I've narrowed out the amplifier since I have 10 other amps and they all done the same. Tried different ground areas for my head unit and no dice. Also setting the gain without any music playing causes the subs to fluctuate. I wouldn't think the amp would kill my electrical when there's no sound being produced. All I know is I am stumped!

Which capacitor to use for DC arc suppression

Hi everyone,

For a while I have been using a 0.022uF X2 capacitor in series with a 20 Ohm resistor to suppress the arc and prolong the useful life of power switches and relays in my class D amplifiers (24-36VDC, 5-15A). I usually connect the said capacitor/resistor across the load.

However, lately I have been reading more about this topic and I now feel that 0.022uF might not be enough.

Would a 1-10uF be a better value to use? If not, then what would you suggest and why?

No power on start up

Hello, first timer here. I have a Heathkit AP 1800 preamp that worked perfectly before moving recently. It was cushioned, boxed and carefully hand delivered via my truck's seat to my new in the Seattle area...less than 30 mile drive. Now, after install at the new home, the PA will not power on. Anyone in my area with suggestions on whom or where I can take it for repair?

I would attempt to diagnose and repair, but I don't have the tools or expertise. Thank you in advance for any of your helpful reply(s).

4 ways with 8 woofers: Series/Parallel / Parallel/Series

Of the four possible ways to connect eight speakers (typically woofers) in series/parallel, there are conflicting views of preferred methods and even the total impedance - which you'd have thought would be straightforward. Some of these configurations are rare; others common. What say you?

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EJ Jordan two-way speakers, some advice

Hello DIY

I just acquired this pair of speakers and some questions ,looks like a first order crossover simple design? has one 40uf cap and an inductor . I am guessing around 500 crossover point .I am no expert

My plans : ​will be installing some black hole foam ,Neotech Solid Core UP-OCC Silver 18AWG PTFE , FURUTECH FT-816 (G) and Duelund 0.01uF 600Vdc JDM-Ag Pure Silver Foil BYPASS Capacitor on the 40uf

Just some stuff i had laying around to use


This is what I received in the deal

drivers
NOS pair of Jordan JXr 6HD drivers-Previous owner preferred the E60HD .At least i will be able to decide for myself which sounds better

installed are :
E60HD MKII
NOS EJ Jordan JX150

​Each driver has its own sealed chamber

Also in the deal I received the original bass 150 and 2' tweeter ,the cabinets must be over 30 years old

Any recommendations on the 40uf cap ?

The inductor i would like to change out ,no identification ?

Thanks

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Zenith 49CZ903 12" Full range drivers

Hey!

I have for sale a pair of Zenith 49CZ903 12" full range (extended range?) drivers. They work and sound quite good.

One cone has some glue on it. It must have been a spill during manufacture, Doesn't seem to affect its performance. They both sound identical to my ear.

They are very sensitive drivers. My 5 watt SET made live-concert volume-levels. One might even call them efficient.

Boxed and ready to go.

$50 for the pair plus shipping.
Shipping from Los Angeles, CA.

To help calculate shipping:
Box measures 12" X 12" X 15"
Shipping weight: 10 pounds.
Ships from 90026 zipcode.

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