Did you ever see that Louis CK bit where he’s laughing at people on the airplane who are pissed because their phone doesn’t work? “You are flying in the sky, 30,000 feet in the air, at 500 mph, in a warm comfortable chair, and you are complaining because your PHONE isn’t working?”.. I love that routine. And that’s how I feel about what I am about to say. I am the guy with the phone. Without Papa and DIYaudio and you guys, there is no way I would even be contemplating building a high quality amp. Not in a million years. Yet here we are, and I’m complaining because it’s confusing and I don’t know which paths to take.

So, with that prelude, I have a modest proposal. It would be nice if there was a stepping stone up from the ACA; a complete, step-by-step plan, overly detailed instructions, complete BOM, maybe even a “project” on Mouser, etc. with everything matching perfectly so that a person, with a little common sense but with no confidence or understanding of what they are doing, could simply follow all the steps and come up with something First Watt level (F5, etc) that works. Pick the case, the power supply, the components, the boards, the complete parts list, and go. No customization options, no choices or decisions to make, just a functional, world-class amp in a box.

I know that is the point of the ACA, but F5 is a whole different level. I don’t know what a snubber is. I have no idea how to size my capacitors. CCLCCLCCR?? Quasimodo? Bridge or discrete diodes? The ACA is a tremendous success, and a model for how my proposal should work, maybe without the full kits, just full instructions and tools. The leap from ACA to Aleph J, as it stands now, is daunting. I realize this is asking a lot of volunteers who have already given way more than they got to get us to the point we are, but maybe this might be considered as a next step. Presumably, you volunteers do what you do here because you enjoy it and you want to help people and expand the community. I think this option I’m describing might be a good gateway drug for many people to the next levels of involvement.

Personally, I’ve decided on an Aleph J as my next amp project. I have ordered the boards, case, many of the parts, and I’m sure, eventually, I will finish it and have a deep sense of satisfaction for how far I have come and how much I’ve learned. “Gotta burn to learn”, etc. But, I’m frustrated and often overwhelmed at this point. Hundreds of pages of threads, poor recollection of where the key bits are, etc. And I have a decent technical background, including a degree in engineering.

What I really want is to build the amp, relatively quickly and painlessly, with my coach, the build guide (videos?), telling me EXACTLY what to do next, and as importantly, why I’m doing it. This subassembly is here because it is needed to do xxx. These parts make up the subassembly and they do yyy then zzz. Etc. I wouldn’t need to understand it all, but seeing, touching, building, etc will certainly give me a feel for what’s going on.

If you are into modding, tweaking, improving, experimenting, the current system is fantastic. So much to learn, so many things to play with. I want to be at your level, and some day I possibly will. But, the steps are very high from one level to the next. A half-way step might make it easier for more people to make it to your level. I get the sense that many people who are proficient audio modders feel that reading through all the threads is sort of a rite of passage, just something you need to do, to progress. I agree that it may be the only way to do it now, but it is not a guarantee of success, and it is probably not the best way to get people up to speed. My proposal, I believe, will get more people farther along quicker and with less frustration. Some day, hopefully, I will be knowledgeable and skilled enough that I can contribute to such efforts.

Hey Guys,

Long time lurker, first time poster 😉

Im currently looking at building my own clean power amp for my line 6 helix preamp to run though my cabinet. as im working through what i'll do i was wondering if i could have some opinions on the power supply.

I have attached a block diagram and table of my ideas and the 4 voltages and their uses.

Is the best way to achieve this to using a SMPS of 24v regulated straight from the power supply and using a voltage divider to get the 12v bias and then getting the 9v and 4.5v bias by regulating part of the 24v down to 9v and then using another voltage divider? Below is a block diagram of my thoughts.

Would this cause issues and is there a better way to achieve this? Sorry if this has been previously covered.

Hello everybody I am now selling my completed EC 7293 amp for $1800+ shipping.

I would like to say that the fit and finish on the casing itself is definitely DIY looking, but other than that the electronics of this amp have been put together with care.
This amp has Clarity Caps as input, Nichicon ES as the feedback caps, Furitech FL-09R IEC, Tube connectors, DH Lab's copper RCA. The total build without any tools I bought to complete this was $1010.
When someone buys this I plan on upgrading the feedback caps to Audio Note as people in this forum seem to think they are a lot better than the Nichicon ES.

I am only selling this as I want to build this again but would like to make a custom cnc case and use even better components.
if you would like pictures from all the angles of this case to see the condition please let me know.

Here is a link to the EC 7203 forum: https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/gro...d-frontend-60-120w-8-4ohm-42.html#post6759247

Willing to negotiate
Thank You

How would a few microwave oven transformers due for output transformers? They have a independence of 2200 ohms with a 8 ohm load. They could do as HV chokes also?

For Sale: 10 pieces of PMI OP275GP. These were purchased for a long abandoned project and are unused. Chips date from 1994.

$2.25 each + shipping from USA. $20 + shipping for all 10.
You choose shipping method. Payment via Paypal or Venmo.

Here is a link to the current data sheet:
[wiki=https://www.analog.com/media/en/technical-documentation/data-sheets/OP275.pdf]%[/wiki]

900W Class H PRO Power Amplifier.

Hi all!
This is not my first amp, but it's a first two-rail amp in my series called "Nataly".
Specs:
Nominal power - more that 900W, 4Ohms
THD on all frequency response - less 0,03%
THD on 1kHz - less 0,005%
This amplifier was made and discussed on Russian forum: V.2013 Äâóõýòàæíûé PRO-óñèëèòåëü â êëàññå Í
Project homepage (in Russian language) - ????????? ???????? Nataly - ????? ?? ????????????????
With respect from Russia
Vadim Mogilniy.
My nick on Russian Sound forums - Waso.

Hi

I would be very grateful for recommendations for a DIY integrated amp ...

My system is (was)...

• Source – NAS to Raspberry Pi 2 (running Moode Audio) + Audiphonics I-Sabre DAC ES9023 V2 TCXO I2S DAC with linear power supply
• Amplifier - Linn Classik (original version)
• Speakers - Quad 11L2 (6 Ohm, 86dB sensitivity, 30-150 Watt recommended)

..and it sounded lovely to me, but the Classik has developed a known recurring fault (IIC). This cost me £150 to fix last time and I don’t want to keep flogging a dead horse and since I'm only now using the Classik as an amp, I thought I might try a DIY integrated amp instead.

I would like;

• sound quality to be (at least) as good as the Classik. It’s power was plenty (75Wpc into 4 ohms).
• remote volume & input selection.
• A kit with most components supplied, or better still wire-together modules for speed (I have a 5 ½ year old child!).

Any suggestions would be very welcome.

The 11.11.21 the founder of Hypex and long time member of DIYaudio past away. Only 57 years old. I would like to dedicade this thread to him. He did encurage a lot of people to get in to DIY. My self included (after a decade out of the game). The work Jan-peter and the rest of the team at hypex has done can never be repaid. I hope hypex will still go strong and continue the god work.
We will miss you alot. And condolances to his family, friends and coworkers.
Rest in peace.

I have a working pair of Acoustat 2+2 for sale.
The speaker panels have been changed. The fiberboard frames have been replaced with steel, and the base has been replaced with oak.
Magical 3 dimensional sound, especially if, like me you can keep them more than 5 feet from the front wall. I used to listen to these at 100 dB ( peaks )
(I also use a Vandersteen subwoofer)
That's them behind my McIntosh speakers.
Pick up in central iowa
OR
I will sell the electronics/transformer boxes by themselves. MK121C with red medallion and C.
The circuit board was modified by me 15 yrs ago by reading threads here to change the resistors and diodes (?).To get the bias voltage back up to snuff.
Speakers entirely: $400
Electronics only $350 + $75 shipping unless you live reeeeeel far away, then I'll have to figure that out and get back to you

Thanks
Paul

Most Greedy Greedy Greedy Boy (of them all)

Yup , that one would be Me , Mighty Moi , ZM

What’s the Catch ?
Nothing …. except here’s the story ……



Culprit : I was constantly bugging Papa about mostly everything , squeezing both question and answer of 42 ….

Consequence : so he in one moment (certainly desperate move ) came to idea that bribe is the way to cope with me ……..


(Fact: Papa is naive ; Do not tell him that simple e-mail addy block is more than sufficient to solve all his ZM related troubles…….. though if he really start using that , we’ll have mass suicide of DiyA Papaland members ……. sometimes I have an impression that e-mail traffic to Pa is almost big as regular posting on forum )


So – he asked me what do I want , from pretty extensive list of things , he’s working on lately;


As usual , I said – nuttin’ , frankly not needing anything , being 2 (3, 4, 5) years late in things obligated (from various reasons) to build for my self …..
But – after repeated reading of his proposition , greediness started getting better of me , and I asked him for few more words about DEFiSIT ; when he replied , I instantly had impression of (my absolutely fave) M2 , with heavy twist(s)
so ……..
now – few pics from recent BAF....... Papalecture , DEFiSIT simple , DEFiSIT no values , Real MCKay one and two , little more detailed schm.

I have seen a similar question on SMPS dual rail PS, but my query is related to a dual rail linear PS.
Can I use just the positive rail and leave the negative rail open? The load would be a class A amp.
Thanks

Hi. For sale an almost complete kit to build the Crystal JFET Phono, full dual mono from RJM. The kit includes the two PCB, matched J113 JFET from RJM, and the rest of the needed parts, all the SS parts needed, MF resistors, caps, all good quality from Nichicon, Wima, etc... You'll also get my detailled BOM and the rest of the technical info to complete the project, except to large film output coupling cap...

I'll even inclded a nice double rca Jack, gold plated (Recycled but just as good). You just need to add an enclosure, and the power supply to have a complete great phono preamp. The kit is small and will fit into a small box for shipping, so shipping cost will be low... Too many projects, this one need to go. The first image is what included, the others images are mostly just for reference, and show what the preamp can be. My kit is not assembled, just the PCB and parts...

In these days of parts shortage it is great to have a complete kit to start with...

For info see: RJM Audio Crystal P jfet phono preamplifier | development thread

I'm asking 75$ (+shipping) for the kit, less than the parts cost...

Hi. For sale Input and switch boards for Soekris DAM1021 DAC, I think it is version 1.0, all assembled, except the leds on the switch pcb, costed me 40$ with all the parts... Just missing the Amanero USB interface (not included)

asking 25U$ o.b.o + shipping

Thanks
SB

I have a faulty NAD S300 int amp which goes into protection mode when it is switched on. The LED on the front panel is flashing.

I have found a few people who have reported the same problem with this amp. Can someone tell me what the problem is and how to fix it? Thanks.

Hi
I have a couple of questions.
I have gone from a 2 stage to a 3 stage design.

My old 2 stage design was a 6J5/300B design, which had a lovely tone, but I felt it needed a little more gain and that as a result it lost some bottom end control.

So I have gone to a Morrison 6SN7/300B design, and this has more control and WAY more gain. But despite star earth, separate signal and chassis earths, and shielded input there is quite a lot of hum, not with the input grounded, but when I turn up the 100k input pot the hum increases quite markedly.
I am sure that this is common issue with a common cause but I couldn't search it (as every thread has 'hum' in 🙂). So any pointers gratefully received.

The second question is, how to lower the gain of the morrison circuit? Do I lower the anode resistor or raise the cathode resistor of the first triode? If I can really lower the hum then I may not need this, but I am up to VERY loud at 1/2 way on the pot so dont need all the gain.


Huge thank yous for your time, and keep well!

Great set of 4 - 16 ohm dual voice coils. Wire them how you want em. I used them in the lower set of Super V's, and may no longer have use for them. Perfect shape. Shipping is optional, but would prefer pick up in 54650 area of WI.

Acoustic Elegance Dipole12 woofer for Open Baffle Bass


Jon

I have a Rogers Cadet III Integrated Amplifier that I would like to sell.

It is completely original as supplied by Rogers back in the 1960's.

It comes with the gold PU Cartridge.

It had one owner from new who bought it from the local HiFi shop in Bedford, England. I purchased it from them. I have no wooden case (sleeve) as it was integrated into another piece of furniture.

I have all the original Rogers Documentation including Owners Manual, Rogers Brochure, Copies of reviews from 1960's publications. Documentation includes Circuit Diagram and a list of all the components and their values.

Please contact me if you are interested in purchasing. I am located in Devon, England.
.

Looking for JanTx 2N2369A NPN NOS
large or small quantity. PM if you have any for sale or a source.
TIA

Have anyone experimented with a phase shield on a 5-6" midwoofer? I'm getting this driver 6″ SB17NBAC35-4 / Aluminum - Sbacoustics soon.. If I could knock down the on axis frequency peaks from 4.5kHz and up, this driver would be extremely good. I want it to match the 30degree response somewhat out to 7kHz. It would then be a lot easier to implement with a 2. order lowpass filter.
A 19mm shield would be 1/4 of the wavelength of 4.5kHz so it should cause some diffraction and effect the higher frequencies. If anyone have links to similiar products or experiments that would be great! I have REW and umic-1 so if this works in theory I could make some different sized shields and do some measurements.

Recently I watched a video or I should say 15 or so parts of someone that clearly had no mechanical aptitude trying to show their expertise in the construction of a cheap ebay knock off amplifier. To make matters worse the video maker purchased "Boutique" parts in an attempt to make something that was clearly inferior into something somewhat usable and claiming they could clearly hear the difference in the performance over run of the mill ordinary parts.

I'm a firm believer in a saying " You can polish a turn and it will still be a turd."
I cringed when I watched the person use a vernier caliper's jaw to scribe a line on a hideous rectangular shaped chassis that might have been suitable sitting on the lower unseen shelf in ones garage.

Its clear in my mind the extremes one would go to obtain some type of following and lets not forget that youtube check.

Hello,

I'm an long time audio enthousiast, so i've come across this forum so many time. Now it's time to register…
\
My main interests are around amplifiers (repairing, playing with cheap class D), speaker (measurement, exciter, diy), diy equipment...

I'm not really a big forum writer, more a reader, maybe things will change now that I'm registered.

See you.

Hi all,

I'm so glad I found this forum. Its hard to find communities these days that are filled with people who are passionate about their topic or hobby and successfully managed to keep out the spam and chaff.

I have had several different careers, but the relevant ones for here are my current ones. I am an electrician by day, and I run a design/fab furniture shop in my afternoons (I also have 2 young kids, so they get my nights).

I have several goals for joining up here, but I'd love to start out by building a nice setup for my workshop music. As always happens, I'm sure I'll dive in just deep enough to want to make different and more advanced stuff after I get my feet wet.

Just so I can point back to here in future threads, I have a 3'x3' spindle-powered CNC (and a 4'x8' soon, hopefully), a 3D printer, a decent grasp on Fusion 360, a full compliment of woodworking tools, and a nice little bench power/soldering station.

I look forward to picking your collective brain to get some cool things built and I hope to gain enough experience to be able to contribute my own advice in due time.

Found web site and want ask, have Realistic sta-2000D. Moved to paint now shuts down in 1 second. Is that a repair for me o audio shop? If shop where is audio shop you recommend? Live near SC. OR NC., And do not want any of those NTC or ECG parts. Thanks in advance for your help and having a web site to help people like me.

When I'm bored I sometimes use the local channels' weather radar to wander the globe. While checking out Australia I zoomed in on this city ... Kalgoorlie.

Now being from the midwest (USA) I've seen some deep holes (iron mines) but the one @Kalgoorlie looks pretty deep. Got to ask anybody that lives around there ... how deep is that?

I have a left over analog board suited for the TDAI-2170 and TDAI-3400 with a nice AK5294A ADC on it. I didn't find a service manual online but it seems fairly easy to run it stand alone: I managed to select the inputs and the +6dB gain by writing from an MCU to the 74HC595 which is accessible through the multi pin connector.

The board expects 3 power supplies of (I believe) +12, -12 and +5 volts, but there is one thing I don't understand:

The relays have 12V printed on them and are directly supplied from the input voltage, so I don't think I should feed higher than 12V to the board. But there are two regulators in series on the board: a 78M09G and a 78M05G, generating the 5V needed for the AK5394A. But the 78M09G has 10.4V at it's input and 8.7V at it's output and the data sheet says drop out is 2V (the 8.7V go into the 78M05G which outputs 5V). What do you think?

Please could anybody who has a Lyngdorf measure the voltages on the pins shown in attached picture for me? That would be of great help! (The attached picture shows the motherboard inside the Lyngdorf with the multi pin connector where the ADC module connects to.)

Been living in France since mid 2009.after leaving Spain after 8 years. The Spanish word 'enchufargo' explains all, it means to be connected, I wasn't and if you aren't nothing is possible, 80% of all €500 notes were to be found in Spain, mainly in brown paper bags. No matter how much research you do you can't trust notarios/alcaldes/bankos/abogados/immobiliarios you can still end up having your house bulldozed and being fined an awful lot of money - so we left.

Would have bought land and built my own design house but health problems got in the way for the next 6 years. We will get our Residency papers soon removing any doubts about continuing to live in France.

I was all set on buying a plot of land with building consents but for some reason or other I happened to look at American motor homes and further 'fifth wheels and travel trailers'.

Why - there is land with building consents, around €30K and there are other plots of land which you can use for recreation - loisirs which is very cheap, €5-10K normally around 1000-1500 sq.m. There you can park a campervan etc. no problem but you cannot build a house.

I've read quite a bit on American sites about the good and bad points with motorhomes, fifth wheels and travel trailers. I've ruled out motor homes, so I'm only interested in fifth wheels and travel trailers.

Any Americans or Canadians with actual experience I would welcome real time info from.

A lot of problems can happen because of (a) being on the road and (b) from being left out in all weathers.

I would construct a reinforced concrete hard standing with a water proofing additive above the level of the ground and once sited would not be moved, that should take care of problems associated with being on the open road. I would also construct an insulated skirt to protect the underbody from corrosion. I believe that I can have a water supply connected as well and have a fosse septic. With a diesel generator that makes me pretty independent of Big Brother.

If I build a house then I have to pay the housing tax known as Tax foncier, this is creeping up with every year. Living in the either model avoids this tax and insurance is cheaper, much less chance of theft or damage with living full time in it.

Some well known names in the RV industry have a bad reputation and you can't trust user reviews supplied by the companies themselves because no way will a company publish stinking reviews of their companies products.

If anyone can direct me to good user forums I would be grateful.

Problems with buying American - 120V electrics and non existent servicing, though apparently this is a problem in the States as well.

Why buy American - 30ft + are hard to find in Europe and like so many other things Europe is far more expensive than the USA. There are many top of the range models with loads of features that are around $80-90K. Yes I know I would have to pay shipping and in France a TVA/sales tax of 20% but then I have a fully fitted home I can move into straight away. Very good insulation is another +. compared to an old French house where you swelter in the summer and freeze in the winter. New French houses are so noisy (construction materials) and they are obsessed with having tiled floors - no thank you.

The biggest negatives for me are the colour schemes of so many are very dark, not a good idea when living permanently in one and cookers are for me outdated when a quality multi-oven is so much better. A big shower is also a good idea. We don't need sleeping for 8, there are just the two of us and at our age we don't expect lots of visitors. a massive fridge is not a good idea rather a decent sized fridge and freezer.

So please direct me to good RV users forums and any other useful tips or suggestions - thank you

Hi guys!
Here I have the headphone amp schematic that came up with and I would like to get some tips from you or maybe even confirmation if you think that it should be a working circuit. As a preamp, I'm using 12AU7(ECC82) and as a output stage WCF with ECC88. It is meant to be able to drive 32 ohm headphones. The first half of the ECC82 acts as a volume control and then the signal goes to eq and then to the second half of ECC82. I really apreciate your help. Thanks.

Hello clever people,

I am looking at replacing some old caps in a vintage ARC preamp (still trying to loose a tiny residual hum) and thought I might see if the output caps coming from the cathode follower on the last valve might be part of the problem. This valve has an AC heater.

Anyway the question is related to the value of these. They are currently 10 uF and I have been told by a friend that if I have a high input impedance Power amplifier (which I do at 100K) then I could happily use 1 uF and they would probably sound better, and I could afford to fit in some more exotic caps too.

Is there a calculation that manages this relationship in any way? I found a website that calculated Impedance at frequency, based on capacitance; and obviously this changes at frequency, and also implies the lower value capacitor would seem to decrease the output at lower frequencies.

Any helpful knowledge here.

Circuit diagram attached.

Thanks!

Hi I currently own a Naksa 80 and I would like to know if it's worth it, to upgrade to the Saksa 85. What do you think?

Hello, I am looking for a pair of RS291.

They must mesure as new or very near .

Better from European Union for shipping .

Thank you in advance.

Hi,

Is there a way to use the analogue inputs on the DScope to record into an editing package such as Audicity / Reaper etc?

It's not been seeing a lot of use at the workshop, as we have other AAs from R+S, AP etc. I was thinking that were the DScope to work well as a soundcard, it could be useful to have in the home system - enabling one box to record, as well as run health checks on the home setup.

Thanks in advance.

Based on tracking pre-regulator circuit form National and this link I expect to achieve 1A regulated current. But in reality ripple voltage is around 0.2V RMS.
The voltage across second reg is around 2V and does not change if one or two red LEDs are connected between Vout2 and Vadj1.
Sims in LTspice are ok.

I'm making bookshelf speakers for a friend as a gift for letting me get married in his backyard. I owe him so much more but this is a start. We narrowed down his expectations and I'll try to distill them here. I've mostly made parts express kits and a few Paul Carmody designs so I'd love to branch out with this one. I tried searching around but I'm drowning in possibilities and need help finding an established design!

The end goal is for casual background music and occasional moderate-volume dance parties. They will be moved around in the future but for now, they will be in a somewhat poor location, near an entryway corner in a 20'x20' room a few inches from the wall. My friend was in audiophile circles in the '90s so has an ear for decent sound, but he appreciates a more "casual" approach now.

- 14"x8"x8" so ~13 liters with 1/2" baltic birch (+/- an inch but this fits well on a console table.)
- <$350.
- Self-powered.
- Aux in for a record player and Bluetooth capable.
- "stealthy" Mostly black and no bright colors or super flashy drivers.
- Protected tweeter preferred so I can convince him to ditch a mesh grill.
- Something that gets down to about 40hz, lower would be better.


I hope this narrows my options and would be grateful for any help!

Thank you!

I would like to own a good quality second hand CD player with optional USB and FLAC capability, on a budget.
regards
Prasi

Looking for ideas for a frame for grill cloth that is not too terrible in refraction. Old school frames were terrible, which led us to the generations of exposed drivers. My next build I need to protect them. At least the woofer as it will be next to a passage and right at elbow level. Being the woofer. A bit of welded wire hardware cloth may be OK. Ideas?

Parsing the Tubelab website and this forum, I see twinklings of a Tubelab Spud SE based on compactrons, dating back to 2008 and fizzling out around 2010 timeframe.

I also see a LOT of other activities in Tubelab's life/career as well as answering our various questions here in TubelabLand. With the Simple P-P taking up what looks like much time, certainly understand if the spud PCB is dormant. Heck, I can't even get around to building out my SSE board due to other commitments.

If Tubelab could look into their crystal ball, would a Tubelab SpudSE PCB be rekindled and available? A spud puffing out more than 3W/ch with a simple build and budget price tag would be suh-weet.

Danke

Hi, I would like to build a speaker similar to the Granada G2.

It is using 2 x AE-12 Dipole, a Scan Speak 12MU and 2 x D3004/662000. One in the front and one on the back.
The G2 is active, but I will prefer a passive filter.

Sensitive 2.83v
Dipole-12 8 ohm 91db, 4 ohm 94db
12MU 4 ohm, 90db
D3004/662000 4 ohm 91db

Can I mix 8 and 4 ohm’s drivers?

I am open for suggestions, just want a passiv filter

http://aespeakers.com/shop/dipole/dipole12/Acoustic Elegance Dipole12 woofer for Open Baffle Bass
https://www.scan-speak.dk/product/d3004-662000/D3004/662000 – Scan-Speak A/S
https://www.scan-speak.dk/datasheet/pdf/12mu-4731t00.pdfhttps://www.scan-speak.dk/datasheet/pdf/12mu-4731t00.pdf

I have a Rotel RDD-980 that occasionally won’t read the ToC on any random cd. It will display “err” after I close the tray. Now the funny thing is that if I open and close the tray 2 or 3 times it suddenly does read the ToC and plays the whole CD perfectly fine with no glitches or skipping.
I carefully cleaned the lens but that didn’t resolve the issue.
Does anyone with experience on CDM-9/65 transports have any idea what could be causing this ?
I’ve read somewhere that sometimes the disc platter tends to shift down over time on the disc motor spindle with these transports causing focus errors. I’ve been searching this forum for a couple of hours today to see if I could find some more information but haven’t been able to find a thread on this. Maybe I’m not using the right search term. Anyone able to help ?
Also, is there any way I can get an eye pattern from this player ? I have a scope but can’t find an RF test point on the circuit board. Nothing about this in the service manual either.

Hello Guys,

I am putting together a Audio Note 300B Kit 1 but not from the kit. I purchased the PCB's from Ebay and separately all the components.

I will use toroidal transformers from Toroidy - pls see pictures.

In my mech engineer mind I liked the symmetry and designed in CAD the amp to respect this for a pleasing visual experience, I want the amp like this.

But since I am no specialist on the magnetic interferences ....etc - I hand over to you for some help to avoid doing mistakes.

Attached is the current layout in CAD:

- chassis is 480 x 388 - ordered but not arrived yet
- green = outside of the chassis - left and right OPT and middle MAINS - all 3 are SUPREME version toroidals with stainless cover and filled with epoxy; mounted from inside with only 1 screw
- blue = inside the chassis - D88 is the choke tranny and D80 is a 2x12V tranny for my dual VU system - analog and tube
- all other blue rectangles are PCB's also inside the chassis
- red - holes in the chassis where tubes are protruding outside

Initially I tried also to place symmetrically also the rectifier tube 5U4G but changed my mind unless I place it in front of the driver PCB.

I am putting an amplified microphone output into a Zoom H4N recorder. Right now my mic board puts out (+/-) 2V differential into an ADC (I can adjust the feedback resistor) but I want to record the output on the Zoom.
I cannot get a clear answer on what voltage diff the TRS inputs on the Zoom expect, and, of course, the damage limits.
Anyone have this information?

Thanks
Fritz

I have a pair for Bohlender and Graebener RD75's and am looking for suggestions for woofers to pair with them. I would prefer open baffle but I am open to suggestions.

Hi Forum,
The following project is described in a different forum, less used by DIY audio fanatics.
(for the whole story with more detail look at Audiokarma.com

The last 9 months I have been working on what started as an Electro Voice Interface D revamp into a big project with a full range 5.1 set based on the Interface D design with 6 more speakers in the make to end up with a Dolby Atmos compatible 7.1.4 system.

It al; started when I ran into a nice set of two EV VMR and two EV ST350b speakers and suddenly images from my youth popped up. I have been an Electro Voice fan since my teens end 70's and have actually build a copy of the Sentry III in that time frame. The Interface D was lost in the dungeons of my brain ready to pop up after seeing the VMR.

I have the luck that my nephew has a great wood shop with CNC machines that was owned by his father (my uncle) and his father (my grandfather), so building speakers has been a passion for over 35 years and I have build many models in the HiFi and PA space.

I am not an absolute vintage geek, love those old designs but I don't need to actually recreate the original. I do want a good sonic reproduction of the design so I am looking for the original stuff.

What I want to change is the geometry of the enclosure. I want to give it a slightly more modern appearance but still remain truthful to the original design. This means that I want to make the unit the same height but a more shallow front panel but deeper. This will give a width of about 15" with a depth of 22" with the original height of 32". (this is actually the enclosure 90 degrees turned). I don't want the passive crossover in the open on the bezel, but keep that clean.

The advantage is a nice speaker to look at in the living room (higher WAF) with a better dispersion as there will be less interference from the front panel.
Volume will remain the same so the LF properties will remain unaltered. I need to find a 12" speaker that will be up to the task (thinking on a Sentry 500 driver).

In the early months of this project I mainly focused on the filter and an alternative for the woofer. Until after a few moths I ran into an original (Swiss made) Electro Voice Interface Delta. And through a business relation I got the original Interface D/Sentry VI design with all the mechanical details and filter schematic.
The project got boosted.

I found some extra information about the different VMR's?
There are 4 versions with a 2,5" voice coil, and there is the 2" VC VMR II used in the interface C, The Interface Gamma and the Interface 300 (the last one I had bought was a bad investment as one tweeter was defect one VMR was defect and the woofers were crap)

1803-9864 – This is the hi-fi version from the Sentry VI and Interface D

1803-9943 – This is the original pro version with a voice coil made from round wire. The repair manual says to rebuilt using the voice coil from the 18030595 below.

1803-0037 – This is the same pro version as the 18039943, except that the part number for the plastic ring was different. My suspicion is that this is the white ring stating VMR you see in some pro cabs.

1803-0595 – This is the later pro version with higher power handling with a voice coil made from rectangular wire. As near as I can tell, this coil has the same impedance and performance as the round wire coil from 18039943 and 18030037, except that it has higher power capability.

What this exactly means with respect to the sound is not clear. They are all quite similar but will most likely be different one way or another.

The Interface Delda's arrived:
The foam surround of the 12"down firing woofer was close to being powder. It has been refoamed and the units are playing again.
The enclosure is in an OK shape, but not good enough to be allowed in the living room (no, not my wife, myself)

The plan is to redo the filter by using all air inductors and high quality Mundorf polypropylene caps. This should make the unit sound better and if good enough I will rebuild the enclosure to a less wide but deeper and taller (same volume) shape bringing the tweeter in a better position.


.........Things are getting out of hand …. (that is not new for me ….)

The design of the Interface E is getting more and more shape.
The filter parts are ordered for a full rebuilt of the passive filter with all Mundorf high end caps and air conductors.

The STR350’s are all within a very decent range equal to each other. Very consistent behavior I have to conclude.

I also had some time to listen to the speakers. I used a fairly low cost 45W Denon integrated amp and a budget DVD player as a CD source. Anything but High End and just setup in the office where I performed the measurements as can be seen from the pictures in the attached PDF.

But wow …… the Interface is a very special speaker. I love it now it is rebuild and connected to a slightly better source and amp. The dynamics are awesome; the highs are clean and very honest. Voices are pure, and extremely honest as well. But the power and unlimited dynamics is what struck me most even with this modest amp. Up till now High End audio (and I had some really awesome speakers like the Avalon Eidolon) can be great transparent and with awesome soundstage but sound compressed and canned compared to the “D”. People on other forums raved about these speakers and they are all right.

Jumping to September 2014.
The 5.1 set is done, it performs very well..... see attached pictures

[/IMG]Does anyone have a set of Legacy Signature iii speakers they would be able to remove the front bass driver on and help me with hooking up the woofers correctly? I purchased a pair that were used with the three bass woofers being run in active mode so they are basically disconnected from the crossover. I was told the downfiring woofer acts as the dynamic brake for the bass system so there is some complexity to hooking everything back up. Any help would be great. Legacy is going to take a couple of days to get back to me so I figured I reach out here.

Hi All,

It is I, the novice of interesting mistakes. I am in the completion phase of my Nutube B! build. I have soured my own parts except for the transistors from the DIY audio store and built mu own chassis. I added a 3rd input to better fit my system. At power up, the nutube lights up on the left side, but does not on the left. All voltages check out except for T8 which has zero volts. T7 is at about 12.7 volts turned all the way down I know I may have damaged the R1 resistor closest to T8. Does that sound like my issue?

BTW, I have done a close exam of all of my solders unter magnification. The power section is as the build guide describes. There is no smoke escaping. I will attach a pic with my eyeball phone.

Any ideas welcome.

Thanks

I just snagged a pair of new Quicksilver single-ended transformers on E-pay. They look as though they were intended for use with the Quicksilver SET Mono amp,9W/channel, using a KT88 and 6H30 tube complement. Since the transformer impedance is 3.3k, I suspect that the KT88 was used in triode mode. Anyway, I have no intention of just trying to copy whatever Quicksilver did, but want to go my own way. I am open to some suggestions as food for thought, as it'll be a while before I get around to wrapping an amp around this iron. How would you use these?

I am starting late spring cleaning, and if I find something useful, but what I do not want, I will post it. Anybody can have it for free, just pay shipping. Most items will be small, so $10 will cover flat rate box to continental us.

Here is an example, two boards of AD convertors from Philips DCC deck. Working.

If interested, pm me.

Hello all,
looking for Fist one 1.4 or similar modules to buy, please offer ( in case or just modules are fine)

Thanks

D.

I restore old receivers from the 70's as a hobby to keep me busy in my retirement years. One question. I have a couple of receivers that the Stereo, mono, left, right switch has no effect. Appears to just stay on stereo no matter the switch position. My thinking it is the switch itself. Am I on the right track.

Were the 2.25 A @ 90V SOA (safe operating area) transistors like MJ15024-25 and MJL21193-4 available in the spring of 1994?

Please give recommendations for audio shop in N.C. and S.C., or web-site to send to for repair. Cuts off after 1-2 seconds, need someone will use oem parts. Thanks for your time.

Hi

I have an Audiolab 8000C pre- amp (older UK model) which has no output from the RH channel. It was fine a few months ago when I last used it and there were no pops bangs etc when I turned it on. The relay clicks as usual and LH channel is fine.

I have had a look at both sides of the board and could see no sign of shorts or components failing.

I note this one is fitted with an sds relais tq2-24v. Anyone know if these cause problems or aware of other common problems ?

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Ale M reviewed the ETracer on his website, EML 20-AM DHT curves and model – Bartola(R) Valves

The fellow who designed the Etracer, Chris Chang, has several videos on how it operates:

Video

Quick question for you guys. I was wondering if anyone knows if there are any DAC chips with the same (or similar) pinout / size as the Burr Brown PCM58P?

I've been looking around for a while now, but the chip seems old enough that most of the information has disappeared.

I'd like to replace this chip in a piece of equipment and perhaps get something more modern, perhaps up to 24/192.

Is this something anyone has done or am I being a dumbass?

Hi

someone can help me to find the manual of 118A?
I have a service manual but not the user.

Thanks

Walter

I am arm wrestling with a stubborn hiss (5mVac measured at speaker terminal). When the driver tube is removed, the hiss is eliminated. I have tried several grid stoppers (1K thru 330K) and none seem to have any effect.

I have tried shielding the tube without any success. Hiss.

I tried replacing the IT with a plate choke Cap/resistor coupling. Still, hiss.

Hiss is certainly coming from the Aa tube. And yes, I am aware that the Aa is not a good match with the 5K IT, but I am just trying to get the feel for the Aa.

Any thoughts?

The resistor came out of a Vandersteen 3A crossover (see attached pictures). I got the color code off it, but I don't know what value it is. It's bigger than the 3W resistors I have, but 2Mohm 5W resistor turns up no axial parts on Mouser, so I wondered if maybe I was barking up the wrong tree. I've posted on the Vandersteen forums, but if they don't come back with an answer, is there any way to figure out the appropriate value?

Hello all,

I'm looking for National Panasonic/Technics rotary selector knobs, the ones seen at the rightmost part of the amplifier...

This is a barn find, it was missing those two knobs and sincerely it doesn't look as good with different knobs ar all...

Who knows, maybe someone has this in a box of parts and would be willing to sell/exchange them

Thanks in advance!

Hi everyone! My first time posting here. I believe no one has ever posted about the difference between the stock output transformer of the TU-8900 and the Lundahl LL2785B, so I thought posting a thread about it could help someone in the market looking to get his first 300B amp and having a dilemma.

About a month ago, I was about to order the TU-8900 with Lundahls already from Victor and we've been exchanging emails about it. I know, most of you won't believe this, but the next day, a package arrived on my porch. It was a TU-8900! My wife just started her new job about two months ago and she asked me what do I want her to get me when she receives her first pay check. I said, a 300B would be nice! She wasn't kidding! I was so excited, but she didn't know about the Lundahl output transformers. And that's fine.

I proceeded and built the amp. It was my first Elekit, but I'm not new to diy stuff. It came with EH 300B tubes and Clear Top 12AU7s. Also ordered VCaps for it as well. I knew it requires a lot of time to burn in before I can really judge it, but I had to get the Cossor WE300B from Victor. They came in quick and replaced the EH. Right off the bat, the sound is more pleasing to me.

I gave it about 80 hours and I just couldn't stop thinking about the Lundahls. I emailed Victor and ordered the Lundahl LL2785B. Oh boy, it came so fast! He shipped it Monday and I received it Tuesday at 3:30 PM. Installed them and I was speechless, literally, on what I heard. The LL2785Bs are just next level in performance. And yes, I know it's too early to judge them still (I have only about 20 hours on them), but it's very good sounding. I'm not saying that the stock transformers are bad, especially if this is your first 300B amp (the case for me), but the Lundahls are more musical than the stock. Almost more of everything. The three biggest differences for me are wider soundstage, more 3D sounding (I can hear some instruments like they were coming from the back of my seat), more detailed, and the bass is so much better!

I will continue to burn them in as the Vcaps requires about 300-400 hours (based on what I've read) and I will post my impressions here later.

I believe that I need a LF transformer for my 1+1s, would prefer MK-121-C Red Medallion but am willing to use what I can get.

I've managed to blow (or break the flyout leads) of one so looking to replace. Scan-speak 18W-8546-01

Really annoying as they are in a wilmslow kit speaker with Scan 9300 tweeter and a load of Hovland crossover caps and after many crossover tweaks I really like them.



There's no Uk stock anywhere new and the only place I know that winds voicecoils in the UK has now stopped repairs and closed its doors.



Alternatievly does anybody repair/rebuild in UK/europe?

I have a pair of these that are used and I’m unlikely to ever build a 300B PSE now as I've gone down the path of big power hungry speakers. I’ve had them sat in a cupboard for 8 years since being bought used!
I don’t post much on hi-fi forums recently but have been a member here for years.

Datasheet here: - SE12 SINGLE ENDED OUTPUT TRANSFORMER 8

They’re BIG! Pint Glass for scale in pic. And Jolly heavy at 6.2KG each. I’m not sure about posting them TBH.

Current RRP is £737 delivered.

I’d like £350 + delivery or collection from UK surrey/hampshire border.


http://www.gt400.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/Sowter-SE12S-300b-PSE6.jpg
http://www.gt400.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/Sowter-SE12S-300b-PSE5.jpg
http://www.gt400.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/Sowter-SE12S-300b-PSE4-rotated.jpg
http://www.gt400.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/Sowter-SE12S-300b-PSE3-rotated.jpg
http://www.gt400.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/Sowter-SE12S-300b-PSE2-rotated.jpg
http://www.gt400.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/Sowter-SE12S-300b-PSE1-rotated.jpg

Hi,

I know its not exactly HiFi, but I am considering using a professional AV switcher as a way of increasing amplifier inputs.

In particular an Extron MPS112 - this will give me 12 additional inputs and the specs don't seem too awful (0.08%THD+N at 1kHz, 90dB S/N), compared to the cassette decks and 8-tracks that will be plugged in to it.

These are cheap on ebay and a lot cheaper than the diy solution I was planning.

It seems like a pretty good solution to me, but I haven't found much online about anyone using these for audio, which could be a bad sign.

Has anyone else used something like this? What was your experience?

Thanks, Jon

Anyone know idle power consumption of the various class D modules?

The only number I've seen is for this one

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-L20D-I...ltDomain_0&hash=item2c5dafb004#ht_7538wt_1258

"Total Idle Power Consumption 7W No input signal".

Doesn't sound like much but it adds up with 14 ch.

Question is, do they actually do anything useful aside from protect the dome.. In other words is it all a snake oil description for a dome cover. I have read in various places now that removing them can be beneficial..?

Hi All. I'm going to ship these in a USPS Priority mail flat rate box. This is all I have time for - therefore it's to the US only.

You can stumble upon these on Ebay (I see ONE now for $250!) or you can get them from Mouser (at least $500 each - hard to tell). Made in Andover MA.

These are 28V DC SMPS that have isolated outputs. You can run them in series for +/- 28v. They are trimmable to reduce output voltage if desired. Look to the Vicor website. You do lose efficiency when you trim them. I run a similar pair in an external chassis to my Pass M2 clone. The results please ME These Flatpacs seem to not mind capacitance on the output terminals, although you probably don't need much.

Pictured they are in series, with ~14ohm between the ~0v and +56v. They are doing ~4A with them in series. Another meter sits at ~28V at the output on one of them.

They are highly regulated and in my reading I gather that the switching frequency increases with load <this is from memory.

Of course these are not made for audio, but for industrial applications so really it's a chance, but if you've been looking to try them here you go.

Not sure what I paid for them, but let's go with $75 (from $120) shipped for them both. Paypal friends and family would be great.

Hi There!

I'm looking at making some desktop monitors for my office and have been considering one of these seemingly great full range plans: the .53 Karlsonator, the XKI and the folded TABAQ (have I missed any others??).

I'm getting a little lost though on which speaker I should be considering/choose. Part of me thinks I should try and find a driver that works in ALL of these designs and just give them all a go.

I'll be supporting whichever speaker I choose with a Wharfedale SW150 subwoofer for low end extension, so digging as deep as possible isn't really my goal. 60-70Hz f3 would be more than enough though if it doesn't affect mid/highs then going deeper isn't a problem either.

I'm hoping to only spend $150 USD or so on drivers as a maximum.
I'm in Australia so availability isn't a huge issue, but drivers can be pretty expensive here. For example Dayton PA130-8's are $40 USD each here. I'd probably prefer a 4" or 3" driver though for more high end extension. I might also be able to find an economical way to ship smaller drivers from overseas and get a lot more bang for my buck (stupid convict tax ~ it's an Aussie thing).

I'll be listening to these in the nearfield, maybe 80cm - 100cm away from my ears but 1.5m apart from each other. Max SPL is not a problem and I don't need to fill a large room. I will be placing them on my desk or on stands on my desk and they'll be about 15-20cm from a wall.

Bit of a comparison:

0.4x Karlsonator - Faital Pro 3FE25 Driver - 60Hz f3, 83dB SPL, 310mm H x 175mm D x 175mm W.
0.5x Karlsonator - Dayton PA130-8 Driver - 60Hz f3, 87-88dB SPL, 385mm H x 203.2mm D x 298.5mm W

XKi - W5-2143 - 60hz f3? - 91dB SPL - 320ish mm H x 274ish mm D x 223ish mm W (Apparently a very good driver).

3" Tabaq Folded - 65Hz f3 - 85 dB SPL - 272mm H x 226mm D x 144mm W

What I don't really have is a comparison of sound quality between the designs!
So if anyone has any ideas, driver selection advice, listening impressions or advice to chip in I'd love to hear it. If this thread turns into a great resource for desktop speakers I'd love to see that too. It's not a topic that seems to explicitly get a lot of attention and I feel these small full range designs, tuned for musicality and frequency response, rather than max SPL are perfect candidates for this use case.

Thanks everyone and I'd love to hear from you soon!

Hi all.
I wanted to pass on some trial results from playing around with a Scott 299B to see what is possible with the stock iron. I had done the usual mods to this type of integrated amp from the early 60s that is commonly advised: cap and pot replacements, etc, but was never very impressed with it sonically. This amp were clearly built to a price point and everything is pushed hard to minimize the parts count & cost. So I pulled out all the stops and changed almost everything except the output tube and iron.

I shoehorned a Hammond 159Q 7H/150ma choke in to run the PS as choke input. This got the B+ down to 310V nicely and allowed triode operation of the 7189s. I am running the 7189s at 35ma each as the power transformer is designed to supply ~140ma and I don't think they designed in much of any excess capacity. The stock fixed bias arrangement I kept as it works OK and I didn't want to lose 10-12V of B+ across a big bias resistor. No global feedback at this point.

The driver is a Schmidt cathode coupled type using a 12AX7. This is simple, works well enough and both channels only took an additional 4ma from the B+. All coupling caps, four per channel, are some old Tektronics 0.1uF/600V oilers I have been looking for a project for. Resistors are various wattages of Allen-Bradley carbon comps: nothing fancy.

I pulled the phono section out and all the various crazy filtration they used to put in pre-amps in those days. Volume pots are 100K Bornes. I replaced the tube sockets as well. So stripped to the minimum: 4 7189s, 2 12AX7s and a 5AR4.

This thing is really sweet and much better then I was expecting! For $120 of parts, its improvement has the best cost to performance gain of any mod I have done. If you are sitting on one of these 60s integrated amps(6BQ5, 7189, 7591, etc), the combination of triode strapping and choke input PS is very worthwhile IMO.

Cons? Sure, always are. Top and bottom frequency extension have been sacrificed a bit to get the super sweet midrange. And I don't know how long the PS choke is going to last running LC at 100%. Its started buzzing a good bit after only 50 hours, so it might not be up to this task. Oh yeah... and output power is down to the 5W range. I can get it to crunch on my 94dB speakers at a moderately loud level but it is not as harsh as the clipping was when it was running in pentode. Still very enjoyable to listen to within its power capabilities.

Thats it. Happy soldering!

First of all, this is a project that is _way_ outside my skills, so I have a good dose of blissful ignorance. But sometimes that helps?

Behringer makes a P16 personal monitor system that uses 2 sets of 8 channel AES3-based digital audio over ethernet cable. They have a very capable and physical interface to create a personal mix of the audio. However, I have a couple of wishes:
1. I don't need 16 buttons and a variety of knobs; I want to have it controlled through a touchscreen wirelessly.

2. I want a smaller package.

3. I want it cheaper 😀.

It occurred to me that it _might_ be technically feasible to even use an ESP32 to read in AES 'frames' into a set of DMA FIFO buffers, do matrix operations from the software fader settings, and then pass the audio out through an I2S interface to a headphone.

Because this is for personal monitoring, latency is critical.
At this point, I legitimately don't know if the optimized ESP-DSP libraries are going to be able to keep up with 16 channels of 48khz audio being mixed down to a stereo stream.

Does anyone have any advice? Is there an easier way to do this?

I'm looking to convert an old bass reflex speaker to an infinite baffle box. The simplest way is for me to affix a new front baffle to it but if possible I'd like to be able to remove the new baffle. Would a screw on panel be sufficiently air tight? Could I use a gasket or similar to achieve air tight status? Thanks

Hello All,

I've come into possession of a Melos MA-333, which has a LDR potentiometer (from what I gather these sounded nice but had a ton of reliability issues).

Whomever had this before me took the audio signal from the LDR board and piped it through the Alps pot below the board which was originally used to adjust current to the LDRs and adjust the respective volume (pot was no originally in the audio path).

I've no intention of repairing the board as several PCB traces were cut and it's a bit of a mess. The Alps pot in there now is a 100k motorized Blue Velvet - been trying to find information on how to tear out this board and just replace the potentiometer with a better one (say a TKD for example). I can't quite seem to piece all the information together as some forum members are saying there are some resistor changes I'd have to make in order to switch the board out and run straight to potentiometer (impedance matching?) - doesn't look this was done in the current implementation. The balance pot is also very strange, moving it to either position gives me a distorted left or right channel, not sure what is happening here.

Here's a video of someone who's gone through a restoration of the original volume board and may help provide some guidance to those who's knowledge eclipses mine. It's tough as there are no public schematics for this preamp (or any other of their products). Happy to provide pictures if anyone would like.

Hopefully someone is able to shed some light on what's required to make this happen as the group here has been immeasurably helpful in all of my posts, can't thank everyone enough!

Does anyone have a real BC330 transistor datasheet? Apparently it's a 1970's transistor from Texas Instruments, but it could be that Telefunken also made them, as they are often found in Telefunken equipment.

I'm looking for a datasheet that has some measured data on noise performance - I know it's supposed to be a low noise transistor, but not how low. I have found lists with a few absolute maximum ratings, the h_FE range, sometimes an f_T or c_cb value and the remark that it's meant for low-noise audio stages on the Internet, but I haven't found anything that looks like a real datasheet.

Thanks in advance,
Marcel

I recently found my first esl's, Acoustat 1+1's, and it turns out one of the large low frequency transformers has been arcing for some time and has a burned spot on the windings. I tried using several layers of Corona Dope on it, to no avail. I guess my question is, does anyone know if there is a person who rewinds these if you send them the core? Or does anyone know how to go about getting a replacement? The other speaker sounds amazing and I'd love to get these going, together. Thanks for any leads in this direction

I have friend with a Carver M-500t which puts out what sounds like a dimmer buzz at idle.

After reading the Carver postings here, I've come to the conclusion that it's probably noise from the triac in the Magnetic Field PSU. This can apparently misfire under light load conditions.

Does this cause a buzz at the outputs?

Does anyone know how to fix this?

Hi folks.
Though I'm more into SE Tube amps, I have had lots of fun with the Gainclone, and since there seem fun to have with Class D as well, I thought that 50 bucks for this tiny amp (on Ebay) wasn't much.

It arrived today. Usually I use my 300B amp with Tannoy, but since I'm reworking it and as well building another tube amp, lately I just plugged an olf flea market Kenwood antique on a pair of .. flea market Klipsch KG4. Very pleasant. But back to the flea sized Indeed TA2021. Something is just .. "not right" All of a sudden, I'm in front of a 2 way set of speakers. Bass is articulated, but the treble seem uneven. Some shouting around 10khz I'd guess.

Is this amp supposed to mellow a bit with time?

Hi, im looking for 1 x ada4610-2arz-r7 to complete my Autoranger however it seems to be out of stock for the best part of a year! Does anyone have one they can part with?

Thanks

WTB (2) 4.7uF Jantzen Audio Superior Z-Cap or Audyn Cap PLUS 4.7uF

Looking to buy two (2) 4.7uF Jantzen Audio Superior Z-Cap's Or (2) Audyn Cap PLUS 4.7uF for a crossover mod I'm currently doing. Please send info and price with a PM directly

Also Jantzen 15.00 Ohm-10 Watt Superes Resistor, need (4) of them.

Located: US, CA

Thanks

Hi guys.
I have a CAD M179 condenser mic and I cannot figure out how to get the damn capsule out of the chassis. I guess it is glued in there.
Any ideas?

Thanks in advance.

Hi

For Sale: 1x Sound Master TA-377A Full Complementary symmetry FET stereo preamplifier kit, utilizing matched pair transistors on RIAA and line amp stages. Has transistor-based regulation on board. No power transformer.

Included: Main PCB with all components stuffed by factory, full instructions, two excellent Alps Black Beauty 100K pots (one for volume, one for balance), selector switch and wiring.

The Kit includes everything you will need to make a high quality pre amp, except a 2x 30v Transformer.

Price £35 plus postage.

Payment by paypal please.

I am struggling to attach photos for some reason (I have managed it before), but I will try and add some, otherwise PM me and I can send some direct.

Hi Everyone.

I have found this forum while looking for suitable speakers for my TV. I have been using an old Altec Lansing CS21 system and it sounded really good. Unfortunatly it as died, and the tv sound is pretty horrible in comparison. I used it for concerts on youtube ,spotify and netflix.
I do have some space restrictions,and while looking for speakers I came across the Fostex DYI kits. Not only they would fit in dimentions ,as i could finnish them to match the rest of the house (WAF is an issue..).
That being said,i have no way to demo them before buying ,and i am a bit afraid that they will sound worst than the Altec Lansing system .
I was thinking in one of this kits:

Fullrange loudspeaker kit Fostex FF85WK, with cabinet kit plywood 18 mm thick

Fullrange loudspeaker kit Fostex FF105WK, with cabinet kit plywood 18 mm thick

Do you guys think one of theese would suit my needs?

In my computer I use a single Ikea Eneby20 speaker and i am totally ok with the sound ,so i'm not super picky.

Thanks in advance for your atention,and congrats on a very nice forum.Really made me wanna get into this hobby!