Low current thump silencer, good for preamp output

As the title says this is module will keep the output of your preamp shorted to gnd with the condition this output is ac coupled.

Remember for when used for turn on thump protection! if you power off and don`t wait that the relay disengages and power on again you will get the power on thump or if the network drops and suddenly comes back then turn on thump can be present. It is more a protection for our bad memory.. 🙂)

It can be used for turn on or turn off thump.
It can be used up to 36vdc(probably more) and when assembled should look like in the image below.

tsl.jpg


One module can be used for 2 channels in a stereo setup if same power supply powers both channels. If you have a dual mono setup then one module goes for each channel.

To use it is simple, connect IN to the output of your preamp that has the turn on/off thump, gnd goes to gnd of your pre and V+ goes to V+ of your pre.

I have attached the schematic, bom and gerbers.


Edit.
Thanks to JP for his suggestion! I made a r1 version that includes this diode and updated all the files.

Later edit: Because of the added diode the cap that does the turn on delay discharges more quickly and if you turn off and back on(or when network power is lost) most probably you won`t get the turn on thump. JP is an amp saver this time 🙂 so thanks again 🙂

Attachments

Recommendation For Bending Wave Bookshelf?

I was digging through my stuff recently and I found a few Dayton Epique 5 1/2" drivers and wanted to do something fun with them. I was thinking of pairing them with some sort of bending wave speaker so it would have really big sound in a small package. Could I get a recommendation on speaker selection? It seems tectonic and Dayton are the only acts in town for BMRs, and I think the manger transducer is a bit outside my price range. I was also thinking of maybe an exciter on some sort of planar substrate, but I would imagine that would be slightly more engineering intensive to implement. This will most likely be an active configuration with DSP.

Dead midrange woofers

Hello, I am a big fan of DIY audio, and am trying my best to build a great sound system for relatively cheap, with decent used equipment.

I have 2@ B&W 604 S2 speakers,
fed by 2@ NAD 218 THX amplifiers in mono-block mode/vertical bi-amped to the speakers' passive crossovers, 1 amp for each speaker,
fed by a Marantz SR7011 pre-amplifier in Stereo mode.

It was all working nicely, until my kid pulled out the Mini-RCA input cable from my iPod to the Marantz amp. That made the dreaded big POP noise; after that, both midrange tweeters are entirely dead. No scratching or humming, just 0 midrange. It sounds like the high tweeters and the low woofers are working, but at this point, I'd like to somehow test all woofers/tweeters on both speakers and each speaker's internal crossover, to make sure it's all working. Since the problem is on both speakers, I can't tell whether it's a 2-speaker problem, or my amp/s has a problem. I have basic electronics knowledge and am very willing to learn. I have documentation for each component, if anyone needs me to upload them.

Is it the speakers, the woofers, the crossovers? or both power amps? or the Marantz pre-amp? How do I test, how do I proceeed, what do I do, where do I start?
I have several NAD 214 amps, that I can use instead of the 218's, to test if it's the 218 power amps. My fear is that the POP killed something in the Marantz pre-amp.

For later:
-I have collected 6@ NAD 214 amplifiers, which I will assign 1 amp in mono-mode to each surround sound channel for a 5.2.4 Atmos setup. I have all the speakers, subs, amps, I just never set it all up. The 2@ NAD 218 THX will remain in mono for the front 2 channels. I know that is overdoing it. I wanted to make an all mono-amp setup for fun, for relatively cheap.
-I'm not sure if there's a way to make the SR7011 mono-amp its 9 amp channels into 1 amp channel full force; I was hoping to use 1 mono channel for Center channel, but I can't tell from reading the manual if there is a way to make it work in mono-mode at 125 watts RMS.
-Subwoofer is 2@ B&W ASW610XP. I quite like them.
-I have 5@ ButtKicker LFE for the 5 seats for watching movies, and 5@ old Crown amps to power 1 to each ButtKicker; they want 1,500 Watts RMS each.
-Just for fun, I no longer measure my Franken-stereo in watts, but in horsepower. As of today, we are at 9,675 watts RMS = 13HP. Huzzah! 3/4 of the total HP goes to the ButtKickers, so it doesn't really count towards the sound system.

DIY Distortion Analyzer/Analysis?

For those of us that don't have access to an Audio Precision set, what are folks out there doing for measuring THD, IMD, SID, whatever? Anything clever for helping to set bias points or actually measuring impacts of changing ground connections, etc?

Here are some excerpts on the topic from another thread ( the Leach amp design thread, I beleive); comments welcome (hint, hint!):

From Damon:

...As for other designs and tweaks, I can only point to Doug Self
and Randy Sloan and their books on amplifier design for hints
as to what might be possible. But we're already into a range of
low distortion that my geriatric collection of Heathkit test
equipment can't possibly measure, and I can't afford an Audio
Precision test set.

Unless I can come up with a "cheap" Audio Precision equivalent,
I'd be shooting completely in the dark with new designs. And
that's daunting....

From me (mlloyd1):

..... I wrestle with the same problem as far as distortion measurements. I usually look at distortion waveforms on my scope. I think we need a group discussion about how to work around this issue for DIYers. There was a REALLY nice project in Audio magazine (RIP) some years ago for a very serious analyzer that could be reworked with current tech (using OPA604 op amps and current buffers instead of TL071, for example) and probably have much more performance than we would need. I've also seen some writings in past issues of The Audio Amateur (now Audio Electronics) by Erno Borbely ( I think) for a distortion analyzer. There was a project in Radio Electronics some years back also. I actually made a PCB and partly built this one. In my opinion, it worked very well - it gave consistent measurements with a Audio Precision I had access to at the time. However, it was VERY tough to control the electronical noise in my DIY environment though - halogen lights, misc dimmers, hair dryers, etc. (it's tough being a married DIYer!) don't make for a clean test environment. Finally, reading through the service manual for some of the HP distortion analyzers (I think the guy that did the Audio magazine project referred to doding this also) suggest a few ideas as well. Alas, I can't seem to find my copies of this anymore :-( I can't recommend enough times that service manuals from GOOD test equipment makers like HP and Tek are EXCELLENT sources of material for study!

I'd be happy with a distortion test box that could spot check with high resolution at about 4 frequencies: 50Hz, 1KHz, 20KHz, 75KHz.

Who's game?

Nelson, what do you do when you have something to test (say an idea at home late at night) and the Audio Precision is nowhere around? Wait until later? 🙂

Maybe we could even ask an analog Guru like Jim Williams at Linear Technology to design a simple, high peformance THD analyzer circuit (I single him out because I remember and oscillator circuit he designed that was claimed to have THD specs in the single digit parts per million. This is incredible!). They might already have such a design sitting around somewhere; I haven't checked their web site and app notes lately. Hmmmmm ....

from Grey:
.... Give the distortion analyzer project its own thread so people will be able to find it more easily.

I'm interested.

I'd like to reiterate--for those who haven't understood what I've said on these matters--that I'm not against low distortion, per se, just the use of massive quantities of negative feedback to achieve the distortion figures. Just don't pursue low distortion as an end in itself, as you'll usually find that once you reach a certain point sound quality suffers. But up to that point it can be a useful tool....

Looking for 10-20w Class A/B amp schematics

Im looking for some schematics/designs for 10-20 watt class a/b amps



Me and a good friend of mine, are planning a build some amps and fishing vacation together this summer.
and we are always looking for new things to build.

WE have a incredibly big stock of parts and even alot of rare parts too, so schematics with hard to get transistors and jfets are no problem.



Thanks in advance
Satyrian

For Sale Scanspeak 23W/0-00-00 passive radiator

For sale a pair of scanspeak passive radiators.

They work well, but I going for a different approach. They are currently in use.

Price is 200 for the pair plus shipping costs

I am in Greece 🇬🇷

Happy to ship world wide

Attachments

  • IMG_20240117_093750.jpg
    IMG_20240117_093750.jpg
    412.1 KB · Views: 112
  • IMG_20240117_093756.jpg
    IMG_20240117_093756.jpg
    444.6 KB · Views: 92
  • IMG_20240117_093801.jpg
    IMG_20240117_093801.jpg
    446.4 KB · Views: 90

For Sale Helix DSP PRO Mk2

Up for sale an excellent high end signal processor from Helix. It is the Helix dsp PRO mk2 upgraded by the Amp Doctor english / Gordon Taylor (designers Genesis UK). Excellent sound quality and tons of parameters. The Helix dsp usb module is included and a programmable controller is also included (I use it for master volume and sub volume, also switch between two savefiles )

Price is 800 euros shipped within EU

thermally conductive adhesive for TO220 package chip amp?

I am starting a new project to assemble an amp that will use two LM1875 TO220 packages in a small, lightweight board. The large heatsink I have is more than adequate for thermal dissipation for the amp, but it is not drilled and I don't have the tools for drilling and tapping to be able to screw the LM1875s to the sinks.

I see thermally conductive adhesive glues and even adhesive tape advertised. If I supported the weight of the boards in the case with standoffs, would the thermal adhesives do the job of conducting heat effectively to the sinks?

thanks!

Piezo Preamp + Mute True Bypass + Clean Boost + DI Box

Hi everyone, newbie here!

I play the Cavaquinho, a sibling of the Ukulele that uses steel strings and has a bright sound. We use piezo transducers to pick up the sound, normally two small discs underneath the instrument's top board.

It works well, but it has a high impedance, and we need to put a lot of gain in the mixer. So I would like to make an all-in-one pedal to make it better. The chain would be something like this:

XER5dSNnILJ.png


The Digital Tuner is something I worry about later.

For the Preamp with tone controls, I thought about using one described by Rod Elliot at https://sound-au.com/project202.htm

Screenshot 2025-04-10 at 12.24.24 PM.png


Then I need to create the boost and DI box output. Can I use the OPA2134 to achieve this as well (I bought 5 of them)? I would like to power this either using a 9V battery or a rechargeable 18350 lithium battery.

Is my project feasible? Am I missing something?

Cheers!

Time for a more modern (to me at least) 2 way build!

Long time amateur speaker builder here, retired and having fun. My last project was these ported 3-ways, very successful and running right now. I promised a friend I'd build him a fairly compact system, so this will be my usual 2 way but with electronic crossover and bi-amped. Here's the component list:

PRV Audio 15W1000v2 15" Professional Woofer 8 Ohm
PRV Audio D260My-B 1" Mylar Horn Compression Driver 8 Ohm
JBL Selenium HC23-25 1" Exponential Horn 100x40
Extron XPA 1002 Power Amplifiers
Behringer SUPER-X PRO CX3400 High-Precision Stereo 2-Way/3-Way Crossover

I'm using three of the Extron amps, I found a very favorable review and decided to try them. I have one in stereo for the highs (60w/ch), and one each for the lows, bridged (200w/ch). These are Class D, but the tech seems to have reached a point where that is practical. Definitely a different sound than the tubes I prefer, but very clean.

I'll be using 3cu ft enclosures, undecided whether sealed or ported. Comments and calculations welcome!

Looking for 100+ watt Hitachi 2SJ162 & 2SK1058 / Exicon ECX10N20 & ECX10P20 Lateral Mosfet amplifier design to build.

Hello,

I would really like to build a 100+ watt Exicon ECX10N20 & ECX10P20 or Exicon ECW20N20 & ECW20P20 Lateral Mosfet based amplifier.

Existing examples that I can find,

->From the Build Audio Amps web site, Project #5,

Project #5 100W MOSFET Audio Power Amplifier

But is uses Hitachi 2SA872, 2SB647 and 2SD667 transistors that are no longer available

->Pee Cee Bee's V4 lateral mosfet amplifier,

PeeCeeBee V4 Rev2

But it only uses one pair of output transistors for 50 watts.

->SusyJ has her 50 and 100 watt version of the AEM6000 lateral mosfet amplifier,

Susy J 50/100 watt version of AEM6000 amplifier

But is uses the SST404 which I cannot find anymore. I would also prefer through hole to all SMD.

->Apex FX-12 lateral mosfet amplifier,

Apex FX-12 gerbers by Prasi

Only one pair for 50 watts.

(BTW, has anyone done a BOM for dummies for the APEX FX-12)

-> Elliott Sound Products Project 101

ESP Project 101

This one actually has most of what I am looking for, except Rod is half way around the world and having purchased from him in the past, post from Australia is ssllooww.... I would prefer to be able to have double sided boards made without jumper wires.

Is there a published two(+) pair lateral mosfet amplifier with an easily source-able parts list?

Don't necessarily need gerbers, a PDF of the circuit board would be fine.

Plan B will be ordering ESP Project 101 boards...

Thank you,

David.

diyAudio F5 Build Guide

This thread is for discussions about the diyAudio F5 Build Guide we have created for the First Watt F5 Amplifier by Nelson Pass. For more information on the boards available from the diyAudio Store, please see the information below.

Please note: The V2 and V3 boards have different parts placements.


Threads on diyAudio that relate to this product (If we have missed one, please post it in this thread and we will add it to the list):

For Sale Peerless NE225W-04 1 pc, ScanSpeak 18W/4434 2pcs

All drivers very bought few months ago, so they are new.
NE225W-04, new, not measured, not soldered, not mounted. 1 unit only. 100Eur
18W/4434, not soldered, mounted, measured. 100Eur a pair

EU shipments only
petr.kocourek@gmail.com

Attachments

  • 20250410_100958.jpg
    20250410_100958.jpg
    147.8 KB · Views: 32
  • 20250410_101010.jpg
    20250410_101010.jpg
    121.3 KB · Views: 26
  • 20250410_101019.jpg
    20250410_101019.jpg
    125.6 KB · Views: 26
  • 20250410_101048.jpg
    20250410_101048.jpg
    144.1 KB · Views: 28
  • 20250410_102417.jpg
    20250410_102417.jpg
    179.7 KB · Views: 29
  • 20250410_102438.jpg
    20250410_102438.jpg
    196.4 KB · Views: 30

Cheap TDA7293 board, any experience?

The original TDA7293 is sold for $10 from mainstream vendors. 2 years ago when I looked last, they had ST logo unable to distinguish a copy from original but defective. Nowadays I see without logo with Hugh quantity availed for $1 to be sure they aren't defective original ones.
I ordered 2 pairs from 2 vendors to see what they worth but I will receive them in 1½ months.
These boards sold for $3, certainly are functioning but with what quality?
On youtube, I find several audio tests but they are with simple music mostly Indian as this compared to probably copy LM3886.

Login to view embedded media

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20240120_112350_Chrome.jpg
    Screenshot_20240120_112350_Chrome.jpg
    155.4 KB · Views: 130
  • Screenshot_20240120_112043_Chrome.jpg
    Screenshot_20240120_112043_Chrome.jpg
    152.6 KB · Views: 130

Let the fun begin

Hello Brainstrust,

Been a long time audio/music lover since I was a kid thanks to my dad and his love of music.
My first taste of Hifi was from a 1976 Joergen amplifier, turntable, tuner and a Teac tape deck running into Joergen speakers, I think it was that combo that kicked off the bug.
Fast forward 50 years (ouch) and the passion has not dwindled, my current set up has been through many iterations and plenty of poor decisions and wasted money although I'm not alone that journey in sure.
So why am I here, well I've decided that I want to put together a small second system and given that I now have more free time, I'm keen to explore the world of diyaudio so that I can not only appreciate the end result, but take some pride in the fact that I built it myself (even though I'm leveraging somebody else's design and skill) but that will help me learn along the way and keep the brain engaged.
What do I want to build.... Everything.
I have been scouring the interweb and YT looking at various designs and options but have arrived at the point of decision paralysis.
I started with tube amp kits, then rPi options and also SS kits, I feel the pi option is quick and easy and the results are quite good, so I might go down that route for streaming (can also integrate the dac with this option).
Speakers are the tricky one from my perspective as designing crossovers will be a completely new science and learning curve.
My background is electrical and Instrumentation trades, so pretty comfortable with the technical and build side of things, just need to smarten myself up in the electronics world.
Anyway enough waffle from me, I came here to learn and seek advice from the diy experts and have some fun along the way, I look forward to interacting with you in this forum.

Cheers

Jason

Poor man's Behringer HA8000 (8 headphones amps in parallel)

Hi everyone! This is my first post, I am quite a newbie in electronics, so please forgive my ignorance.

My idea is to make a headphone amplifier that takes one balanced mono input and delivers one unbalanced output. But I want to make 8 of these and put them in parallel! Here is the sketch:
Screenshot 2024-12-21 at 11.43.31 PM.png


I would be used to drive in-ear monitors, each musician has a bodypack with a passive volume control and a 3.5mm jack to plug their headphones, something like the Behringer PM1.

The input comes from my Behringer XR18 auxiliary outputs, they are mono and balanced, here are the specs:
xr18-output.png


The output also is mono but unbalanced. The headphones used for in-ear monitoring are normally 32 ohms.

Ah, I forgot to mention: I want to make it as cheap as it can be 🤑 , but it would be great to have a clear sound with little or no noise.

So, what do you suggest?

Many thanks!

Attachments

  • Screenshot 2024-12-21 at 11.43.31 PM.png
    Screenshot 2024-12-21 at 11.43.31 PM.png
    67.5 KB · Views: 77

For Sale Faital Pro 8PR155-8 pair $100 shipping included

I have a pair of unused Faital Pro 8PR155-8 Midrange drivers for sale. $100 for the pair, includes shipping to US (no Alaska, Hawaii sorry). I don't have the original boxes. The drivers will be boxed appropriately for shipping. Shipping will be USPS Flatrate.
8PR155_Front.jpg
8PR155_Back.jpg

8PR155_Pair.jpg

Attachments

B&O Beogram CD-50

I have B&O CD-50 which would not eject, I've replaced the rubber band that drives the tray cogs which has fixed the tray - discs now load.

Disc however will not play - I can hear a clicking sound coming from the mechanism that hoses the laser and motor. Eventually the disc is ejected.

Does anyone have knowledge of how the disc loading works? I can see that when the door is closed an arm below the disc lifts the disc up, before dropping slightly. I'm not sure if the disc should be picked up off the tray to be spun - if it should be I can't figure what keeps it off the tray?

Thanks.

Driver to mate with Bliesma T34B in WG

I have purchased 3 T34Bs for left, center, right speakers (music primary) and need to move towards the next purchase.

I have been perseverating for months now. Almost purchased 3 x Bliesma M142A's, but I wondered if a 3-way might be biting off more than I can chew. Also, it seems that it would best match the T34 without a waveguide(?). This lead to lots of consideration of WG or not, power response, etc., more paralysis by analysis.

Room is well-treated acoustically.

I am picturing a wide baffle with large roundovers (a lot like the Grimm speakers). Would try and model with passive crossover, but unless very successful would move towards DSP.

Simulating an ~ 21" baffle in Vituixcad suggests full baffle support down to ~ 250 Hz. So at an approximate 1.3Khz XO in a two way, both drivers will be radiating into 2pi space, so measurements of dispersion in an IB (hificompass) should largely match what I will see(?).

@mabat 's waveguide, as an example, looks to be 120 degrees in dispersion, so would need a midwoofer to hand off to that smoothly.

Any thoughts? Thank you,

Bill

For Sale Hammond Choke 195J10 10mH 10 Amps DC

I have a pair of Hammond Choke 195J10 10mH 10 Amps DC for sale. Mouser has them listed for $91 each
Asking $100 for the pair.
They weigh 6.5 pounds each. I can ship priority mail flat rate, price depends on your location, Los Angles is $26.30.
W3.5" x D3.75" x H3.13"
Slight surface rust from sitting on my shelf.

Attachments

  • IMG_7194.jpg
    IMG_7194.jpg
    450.3 KB · Views: 61
  • IMG_7195.jpg
    IMG_7195.jpg
    485.6 KB · Views: 59

DD DM1000A Excessive heating on output FETs

Hello friends, greeting you again. I am trying to repair another DD DM1000A that came into my hands. This time the amplifier arrived with damaged IC irs2092s, the entire output stage was removed to check output mosfets and necessary voltages in the IC, only the IC was changed and it began to pulsate. Now the problem is that the output fets which are Irfb52n15d get too hot and there is a working frequency of 345khz, I don't know if the frequency is high, I checked resistors near the IC and everything is fine, I have audio at the output and a current consumption of 1.75 amps, what else can I do to prevent the output mosfets from getting so hot?

Attachments

  • 20250309_200800.jpg
    20250309_200800.jpg
    432.8 KB · Views: 46
  • 20250309_200748.jpg
    20250309_200748.jpg
    497 KB · Views: 44
  • 20250309_200741.jpg
    20250309_200741.jpg
    886.5 KB · Views: 48

Old Geezer ~ New To This Site ~ Need suggestions for Speaker Building.

Hi there, I am retired... and into Hi-Fi components, especially speakers.

I have picked up a matched pair of Infinity EMIT k planar ribbon tweeters, and a fairy closely matched pair of a/d/s Braun 206-0210 dome Mids. All are clean and in good working shape.

I would like to know if anyone here has combined these two types of drivers into an open baffle designed loudspeaker ~ that would either use a sealed box or open baffle woofer scenario.

I love how both these drivers sound in their particular applications, but that doesn't mean they will sound good together.

Any suggestions, thoughts, comments, amusing anecdotes... warnings, etc.?

Attachments

  • Infinity_EMIT-k+Tweeters.jpg
    Infinity_EMIT-k+Tweeters.jpg
    259.5 KB · Views: 13
  • a_d_s-Braun-206-0210-Mid.jpg
    a_d_s-Braun-206-0210-Mid.jpg
    304.5 KB · Views: 12

A usable tone control

Tone controls are the bane of true audiophiles, or so they say. And if truth be told, there's some real justification for that sentiment. Most traditional tone controls are based on the Baxandall circuit, which in my opinion leaves much to be desired as far as sound quality goes. I've never heard an implementation of that type of tone control that didn't seem to muck up the sound in some way that made things worse. And considering the way the phase and frequency response are treated, and with the inter-channel variation caused by crappy-cheap potentiometers performing thier special kind of "magic", it's no wonder most prefere no tone controls at all.

But inspite of all that, I've always felt the need to have some way of correcting the response aberrations that are almost inevitable given the fact that the recording artist and/or engineer has no way of knowing what the environment that the recording is being played back in will be like. So I've put together a circuit that I believe is functional and good sounding while avoiding the pifalls and shortcomings of the usual designs.

First, the range of adjustment is limited to +/- 7.5dB using 1.5dB switched steps, I can't think of any reason why anyone would need the 15 to 20 dB boost or cut that most controls provide. Using rotary switches instead of pots also avoids the inter-channel variation thing, and allows using a center position to ground to completely disable the tone control action when it's not needed.
Second, instead of the usual 1kHz center point, I've put this one around the mid-600Hz range, which is actually the middle of the audible range of the Human ear.
Third, the slopes are shallower, which makes the adjustments much more subtle but still effective, and also causes less phase shift. There's also a provision for adjusting the turnover frequencies if desired. The final result is a tone control that is usable and won't cause more problems than it solves.

Below are the frequency response plots, schematic and bill of materials.

Tone Control Amplitude Curves.jpg
Tone Control.JPG
View attachment Tone Control BOM.txt

Mike

"S.I.P.E." (SIPE S.p.A. ELECTROACOUSTICS) looking for an old 8" Full Range Speaker with Foam Surround from the 1970s

A friend of mine at the time bought this full range speakers from me. Since I no longer have any contact with them and no longer have the supplier catalog where I ordered the speakers 1976, I can't find out the model No.

The driver looks similar to those from the first both attached image, but instead a cloth surround was a foam surround in use (for better results in the low frequency area in small cabinets).
The logo on the magnet of my old version was the same as to see on the other attached images.

Who know the model naming of this vintage full range driver ?
Thank you very much for an advice.

P.S.: in the attached data sheets from various models in 1985 the wanted model was no longer listed.
The German supplier on those days was Oppermann Elektronik.

Currently address and web-address:

S.I.P.E. S.r.l.
Società Ingegneristica Prodotti Elettronici
Via Alioli e Sassi, 24 - 21026 - Gavirate (VA)
Tel: +39.0332.746464
Fax: +39.0332.744473
E-mail: info@sipesrl.it
https://www.sipesrl.it

under
https://web.archive.org/web/20031201000000*/www.sipesrl.it
are no archived information to find
and under
https://www.ufficiocamerale.it/2750...tica-prodotti-elettronici-srl-in-liquidazione
I read this:
DATI DELLA SOCIETÀ - S.I.P.E. SOCIETA' INGEGNERISTICA PRODOTTI ELETTRONICI - S.R.L. - IN LIQUIDAZIONE
Indirizzo: VIA ALIOLI E SASSI 24 - 21026 - GAVIRATE (VA)
Rea: 233826
PEC: sipesrl@certimprese.it

Attachments

  • SIPE AWC250-front.webp
    SIPE AWC250-front.webp
    168.9 KB · Views: 57
  • sddefault.jpg
    sddefault.jpg
    61.9 KB · Views: 56
  • SIPE AWC250-rear.webp
    SIPE AWC250-rear.webp
    78.3 KB · Views: 61
  • sipe.webp
    sipe.webp
    162.2 KB · Views: 60
  • SIPE AB200.webp
    SIPE AB200.webp
    51.5 KB · Views: 69
  • SIPE AWC250-datasheet.webp
    SIPE AWC250-datasheet.webp
    84 KB · Views: 62
  • logo-sipe-web-2014.png
    logo-sipe-web-2014.png
    3.6 KB · Views: 59
  • sipe-1985.pdf
    sipe-1985.pdf
    7.2 MB · Views: 47

Computer as inline EQ/room correction with TV as the source

I have no problems utilizing equalizer APO/peace GUI with the computer as the source......to one or one pair of speakers only

What I would like to do with my current set up: (please let me know if this is possible.....so far I have failed.....also let me know if there is a work around......don't mind buying another low cost preamp and/or DAC if necessary)

TV as the source.....in this one room, I enjoy utilizing the TV as the source as I do a lot of over the air antenna TV watching (uncompressed video and audio) and like the TV Spotify interface......and watch a lot of Blu Ray movies (Blu Ray player to TV with HDMI)

With my current set up I have the TV going to an amplifier with High pass and full range out. The high pass goes to a pair of DIY exciter panels. The full range out is split to a subwoofer amp with low pass for the subwoofer and the other split off RCA full range goes to another amplifier to drive a DIY mono full range center speaker.

I would like to place the computer (in line) in front of the amplifier that drives the DIY mono full range center speaker......to room correct that speaker with a PEQdb filter uploaded to APO equalizer on the computer to filter and room correct that center speaker only.

Is this possible?
Thank you.

Joe Rasmussen "Trans-Amp" - 40 Watt Transconductance "Current Amplifier"

Joe Rasmussen "Trans-Amp" - 40 Watt Transconductance "Current Amplifier"

.
PLEASE BUILD THIS WITH DUE CAUTION!

[Click on it to enlarge]

Trans_Amp_Schema_Wiring_Caution.gif


There are good reasons why there are no "Current Amplifiers" on the market today, with exception of the Nelson Pass F1 and F1J amplifiers. This DIY project is about building a low cost 40 Watt Transconductance Amplifier using National Semiconductor's LM3875T.

WHY BUILD ONE?

Before going ahead: READ THIS BY NELSON PASS: Current Source Amplifiers / Full Range Drivers

Conventional amplifiers are of course "Voltage" types, where the amplifier outputs Voltage similarly to what we see on an oscilloscope with X-Y axis' representing Voltage (vertically) versus Time (laterally). The current is dependant on the load.

With a "Current" type amplifier, this is far less intuitive to understand, but basically it is the opposite, here the voltage is dependent on the load.

It becomes then clear that the Voltage Amplifier needs to have a low output impedance, so that the amplifier can control the Volts without any sagging. Effectively, the Voltage is 'regulated.'

What is not so clear is that a Current Output Amplifier needs to have a VERY HIGH OUTPUT IMPEDANCE!

So a Voltage Amplifier is defined by its Low Impedance.

A Current Amplifier is defined by its High Impedance.

The notion that there is any such thing as "Damping Factor" - with a Current Amplifier - forget it!

Indeed Damping Factor is largely a myth, what really happens, as Richard Small told me way back in 1975 (he is the S in T-S), that any series impedance/resistance with the Voice Coil erodes Qes and if high enough, destroys the speakers Bass Alignment - so that the Electrical Damping Qes within the speaker is non-existent.

If the DCR of the Voice Coil is 6 Ohm and Qes = 0.5, then an additional series of 6 Ohm will double the Qes = 1.0... and so on. Your Bass Alignment no longer works.

SO THIS AMPLIFIER CAN DAMAGE THE WRONG SPEAKERS!

For the technically minded: The Qes and Qms of the driver that determines its part of the bass alignment, these two are in parallel. If the Qes is eroded completely away, then take note of the Qms as the real Q of the alignment. That way we can plot what that particular alignment does in software. Enter T-S Parameters and Box details, but modify Qes to 1000, enter correct Qms value, then it will plot the actual 2Pi response when driven by a current amplifier.

Also, the Crossover (High Pass) to the Tweeter could also damage it in a very short time.

Yes, the use of Current Output Amplifiers are suitable for Full Range Drivers and also speaker systems that are designed to work with current.

Such as the latest Elsinore Mk6 Loudspeaker Project.


Cheers, Joe R.
.

Hello, I have recently bought a Douk A5 Pro

After seeing the reviews of the Douk A5 I am trying to run 1x technics 1210 turntable 2x bose 301 speakers. Having to turn the volume up all the way on the amp to get any decent level of sound out of it and to be honest at the moment I am not impressed. Also the hiss is terrible. I have also hooked it up with some old wharfedale modus cube satellite speakers have the same result. Question is am I asking too much of this little amp or doing something wrong.

Repairing a Sugden SDT-1SE CD Player with CDM 9 Pro pickup and mech

I offered to look at a Sugden SDT-1SE player for a friend, the problem appearing to be the well known issue of the loading gear on the tray mechanism.

1.png


This is a real heavyweight of a player both in terms of build quality and its audiophile heritage. The internal build quality is superb and Sugden gear is mostly hand built (I've actually had the privilege of being shown around the factory many years ago when this player was being replaced by the later CD21).

5.png


The DAC is the Philips TA1541 '1 Crown'

6.png


The PSU

7.png


Inspection showed the gear was well and truly annihilated. More of a surprise was that it was almost glued to the shaft by some mysterious green stuff. I can only think this is some remnant of old grease that has baked and dried solid. ISO wouldn't touch it and in the end it had to be scraped off:

2.png


A new gear was fitted and reasonably generous amount of a special plastics/metal compatible grease applied. The replacement was advertised as coming with the belt but the belt that arrives with it is only a fraction the size of the original which fortunately was still soft and supple.

3.png


10.png


The mech removed from the player:

9.png


And then a curiosity......

The tray operated smoothly and quietly but there was a little issue that was quite unexpected... the tray motor over ran for around a second and a quarter on each eject cycle. The loading part was perfect, just the eject with the issue. There is only a single micro switch that operates when the tray is either opened or closed and monitoring this showed it to be working correctly. So this was odd. Slipping the belt off and opening the tray manually by hand saw the motor behave correctly. Weird.

A long story short but I wondered if this could be either some contact bounce (unlikely and it didn't really fit because I would expect the tray to immediately reverse if that was happening). The other dark though was the firmware being programmed to run the motor for a set minimum time and only after that time elapses will the system control accept the electrical input state of the microswitch.

I added a 22 ohm in series with the loading motor. Perfect. Hmmm. How low can we go. Seems like around 5.6 ohms as a lower limit. I fitted a 10 ohm and for good measure added a bi-polar 47uF across the motor. It operates perfectly, the tray is smooth and fast and has plenty of torque. Any slow down in tray speed due to the lower voltage is imperceptible from a user point of view. It will also be much kinder on the gear not to be rammed into the end stop with the motor still powered.

I have asked Sugden if there is a known issue for this......

2x150W Amp module for sale

Hi, All

Announce some SMPS+Class D amplifier integrated modules here:

FFA001V3
Output: 2x150W @ 4 / 8ohm
Input: 85--265Vac, constant power SMPS
Size: 90x150mm
Price: $49.9/Unit, w/o shipping (Inc. I/O buffer and mating cables)

FFA001V3-HB

Note: Configured as a high-bass mode. CH1=300W@4OHM and CH2=120W@8OHM, similar to the Pascal U-PRO2
Price: $54.9/Unit, w/o shipping (Inc. I/O buffer and mating cables)

FFA002V2 (1U height)

Output: 2x300W @ 4 / 8ohm
Input: 85--265Vac, constant power SMPS
Size: 95x200mm
Price: $99.9/Unit, w/o shipping (Inc. I/O buffer and mating cables)

FFA003V1
Output: 1x150W @8Ohm / 1x300W @4ohm
Input: 85--265Vac, constant power SMPS, heavy-duty design
Size: 90x245mm
Price: $64.9/Unit (Inc. AL base plate and Volume IO buffer) w/o shipping



PM me if you need more information.
Thanks~

Pics of FFA001V3

FFA001_V3_2.JPG



FFA001_V3_5.JPG



FFA001V_V3_NEW_build.jpg





Pics of FFA002V2
FFA002V2_3.png


Pics of FFA003V1

FFA003V1.png


Misc
--- FFA001_V3 spec sheet & Test data;

--- FFA001_V3 & I/O_V1&I/O_V2 dxf file;

--- FFA001_V3 RearPanel_XLR 3D drawings;

--- FFA001_V3 RearPanel_RCA drawing and PDF;

Attachments

For Sale Precision Matched Quad 2SK182ES with Data

Precision matched quad 2SK182ES with the curve data.

They were bought few yeas ago from Tomoaki Watanabe(Japan).

Only shipping to US and Canada, 450USD$ or 640CAD$ Plus Canada Post package with Tracking (Paypal family or firends option).

GTA (50km from Aurora) can be delivered or picked up.

These are very good staff and hope they will end up with a SIT amp lover.

Attachments

  • 2sk182ES 01.jpg
    2sk182ES 01.jpg
    273.8 KB · Views: 29
  • 2sk182ES 02.jpg
    2sk182ES 02.jpg
    253.1 KB · Views: 27
  • 2sk182ES 03.jpg
    2sk182ES 03.jpg
    84.1 KB · Views: 28
  • 2sk182ES 04.jpg
    2sk182ES 04.jpg
    30.3 KB · Views: 20
  • 2sk182ES 05.jpg
    2sk182ES 05.jpg
    28.2 KB · Views: 17
  • 2sk182ES 06.jpg
    2sk182ES 06.jpg
    25.7 KB · Views: 23

Hello World, hello DIY!

Hello everyone, my name is Robert.

I joined the forum in 2015 because I was looking for a DIY headphone amplifier. With the knowledge from this forum (I am personally very weak in electronics, but I try to read with understanding and I have a small soldering iron and a cheap DMM 😉 ) I made a headphone amplifier The Wire SE-SE. Unfortunately, a few weeks ago the amplifier broke down - after almost 10 years of use. I decided not to repair it but to try something else. Now I bought an unfinished Objective 2 and started my "DIY" journey again. 😉
Greetings from Poland, Robert.

Hello everyone!

I rescued a pair of B&W DM603S3 Speakers thrown out on the street. I replaced one tweeter and sent a kevlar driver to The Speaker Exchange in Florida to replace it's torn dust cap

This is was first entry into the world of DIY Audio.

I've created an account to discuss the several things I've done with these speakers since. I've used this forum as a reference and figured I should share my findings as well.

Looking forward to productive conversations!

My Transistors, original or copy?

This thread intended to be an information resource for all. Please post measured data and photos for complimentary pairs in one post. The data will be condensed so we have a single post for each type to make things easy to look up. It will be a sticky.

I would like to thank MikeB for encouraging the creation of this resource, and all the members who have collected and posted information previously. Also the members who post new data. We will condense new information into a pre-existing post for the type number. All O.T. posts will be removed to keep this thread clean and useful.

My hope is that this thread will assist members in their semiconductor purchases. Another thread on this can be found here.

-Chris

Has anyone used these Mid-Range Drivers?

I am designing studio monitors for an 800 sq. ft room that need wide dispersion and more SPL than I can get from standard hifi drivers within the budget I was given. There will be subs so I don't need the mains to go much below 50 or 60Hz. I will likely be using two Faital Pro NFE400 woofers for 50Hz-300Hz. I plan on using a compression driver and a horn for 1500Hz and up. I need recommendations on a mid-range driver. The system will be all active with a MiniDSP processor and a Buckeye 6 Channel Hypex Ncore amplifier (500 watts for the low woofers and 250 watts each for the mid and high).
These are the three mid-range drivers I'm looking at (mostly because they're round and that will make it easier to get them flush mounted on the baffle since I don't have a CNC machine). They also fit the budget which is around $100 a driver.

Ciare CMR160 6.5" Full-Range Driver 4 Ohm​

LaVoce MAN061.80 6-1/2" Neodymium Midrange Woofer 8 Ohm​

B&C 6PEV13 6-1/2" Midrange Speaker​


I'm leaning towards the B&C driver because of their reputation, but I am unable to find any independent measurements, especially distortion. These speakers will be used to mix on and I am hoping that they can be as transparent as possible after I flatten them out with the active crossover.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts. I would love to hear from anyone who has used these drivers or has another recommendation.

NAD Monitor Series 5000 - hot focus servo

Hi!

I`m having a literally burning problem with my NAD Monitor Series 5K player: one of the two transistors controlling focus coil gets very hot - 75-80C with heatsink (!), without heatsink it went as hot as 150C before I turned the player off.

I know there`s a known problem with this player regarding transistors driving focus coil overheating to the point of damaging solder joints, there`s even a service note describing the problem and suggesting replacing said transistors with physically bigger ones for better heat dissipation. I did so when the player started skipping (after ruling out pickup wear or damage) along with replacing bad capacitors (the real cause of skipping). The player works great now, but that one transistor still gets scorching hot and I don`t like that.

My question: is this normal for this player? I Can`t tell without other unit to compare. I got the service manual, run adjustment procedures, all seem to be OK... anyone with NAD 5000 willing to open his/her player and measure (or feel with a fingertip 🙂 - but careful!) the temperature of Q102 and Q103? Or maybe someone already knows what`s going on? Please help!

Thanks in advance!

For Sale Bisesik transformer I/V board for Ian Canada dac hats

I've upgraded to one of Ivan's newer transformer pcbs so this is now surplus. It has 1:4 transformers on board, and was originally configured with I/V resistors on the output across the secondaries but on advice from Ivan I moved the I/V resistors on the input side, across the primaries (hence them being soldered under the board), and took the opportunity to upgrade them to vishay foil types.

£95 posted in UK, international postage at cost


FSSA amplifier build thread with review

20200225_195538.jpg

20200225_195519.jpg

IMG-20200225-WA0107.jpeg

IMG-20200225-WA0105.jpeg

This is a realisation of Papa Nelson F5 by Fab of Fabaudio FSSA class AB amplifier.

I made this amplifier with full carbon resistors. I wanted a high end Lateral mosfet to drive very difficult 4 ohm {2.4ish actual) with my own twist. A more musical yet powerful amplifier. It will be driving nht speakers and kharma GLE. Both very power hungry.

It's powered by Swedish lindersberg transformer. 26vac. Output to a speaker protection. Diy slowstart using h3y omron. 4x10000> Inductor >5x10000uf capacitor. I already tried capacitance multiplier but decided this is a better approach to achieve a more textured rich sound.

I'm using Ecw series. Dual transistor per die. 35vdc ct 400ma and above. Was told by Papa Godzilla that I could get 100w. With about 4 percent class a.. Whatever that means.

I'm progressing very slowly for this one as I want it to look great and sounds great. I had thus pcb for 6 months and slowly collecting parts. Learning while building. So I only post it now as it's near completion. I am not well verse with any electronic's theory. But a buddy of mine who reviewed the circuit said.. This iwill be worth the effort. Do it. Thus a more serious effort.

Fab makes absolutely great build manual. It's very easy to build. And he is also great in supporting this build. I have some difficult to get parts and got help. And also a couple of transistors replacement. Ztx795 is not easy to get here so I replaced with bc639 and bc 640. Eveyrhing is matched as closely as I could. Since I'm a noob doesn't hurt to be more careful.

L20.5, finished Amp with Hum

Hi,
a well-known one has bought such an Amp https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005006773111211.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2deu
The Amp gives hum to the speakers. He measured about 34 dB. He ask me for a look to this amp. I have a little bit more knowledge...little
There was a connection between PE at different places in his amp. One spacer had connection to one heatsink on the boards, used for the drivers, wich is grounded.
Input minus was grounded on both boards and to PE, because PE is connected to the housing. The chinese used the board metal spacers for grounding.
No loopbreaker or resistor in the amp between PE and powerground. Something like a starpoint was made on the power pcb. Powerground and speakers are connected.

I know that the L20.5 has no groundlift resistor. PE ist connected to the housing now, no connection to the powerground anymore, but the amp is still humming.
I remembered i found a schematic in the i-net. I have made a picture from this schematic, hoping it is correct.

My idea is to put a ground lift resistor in at the input, its missing. I have drawn a new plan with my little knowledge. Could you please tell me if i am right with my drawing ?
I want to use a starpoint, make a connection to the signal ground and will use a loopbreaker. I had great sucsess (with help in this forum) using this things in my FH9 Amp to lower the offset. ( i got no hum before).
Picture 3 shows the schematic. I have marked the changes in red i want to make on picture 4.

I have seen that the rca wires are very long, behind the L20.5 board and near to the transformer. I will try to turn the case heatsinks to get a shorter way.

Thanks for helping

Peter

Attachments

  • l20.5_1.jpg
    l20.5_1.jpg
    96.1 KB · Views: 149
  • l20.5_2.jpg
    l20.5_2.jpg
    173.3 KB · Views: 158
  • L20.5.jpg
    L20.5.jpg
    213.3 KB · Views: 165
  • l20.5_3.jpg
    l20.5_3.jpg
    184.5 KB · Views: 169

First build ! Two way 15''

Hello !

Here is my first post about my recent work around speaker building.

This forum has been a great source of learning for this project, I guess it's the right thing to do to show you the actual results !

IMG_4440.jpeg


This project began with the aim of building a speaker system for listening sessions in various locations around my home. The brief was for something that sounded good, big, within a manageable budget and with DSP capabilities to adapt to a wide range of different listening conditions.

So it's a project conceived at the crossroads of Hifi and PA philosophies.

This being my first loudspeaker manufacturing project, I turned to the well-known recipe of a 15’ BR in a large box (135L), with externalised compression and its horn. For obvious design and manufacturing reasons.

The choice of a DSP also led me towards an active crossover. This led me towards multi-amplification.

Here's the list of components:

15‘’ Faital Pro 15PR400
2‘’ Beyma CP750Ti
B&C ME60


Behind the scene:

DBX DriveRack PA2
Crown XLS 2002 (for the tops)
Crown XLS 2502


The project is currently at the end of its first phase, and there's still work to be done. For example, the horn is due to be replaced, along with a potentially better tuning of the port, and a fair amount of cosmetic finishing.

The system is currently located in my living room, which is not particularly practical for listening at correct volumes and which has some modal resonance problems. When the warm weather arrives, I'll do a series of outdoor measurements, which I'll post here if you're interested!

For the moment, and after several weeks of critical listening, I'm happy with the result as a first project, although I'm not reinventing the wheel, this simple system ticks most of the boxes in the desired specifications.

My first criticism would be that the vent perhaps deserves better tuning. Although I've followed the measurements given by WinISD, I feel there's more to be done. Fortunately, I've made sure that the vent can be modified more or less easily.
Although the compression is effective in its frequency ranges and pleasant, I'm missing quite a bit of information beyond 10kHz, or even lower. That's why I'd like to add a remote tweeter, (Fostex T90A, Visaton TL16H etc), with its share of questions, but we'll certainly have the opportunity to discuss them!

There's still some work to be done on the insulation, but after several tests with different materials, 45mm cotton panel glued on the internal sides and lower back panel seems to be giving the best results for the moment.

The ME60 horns were chosen temporarily to start listening, but are due to be replaced. Not having had the opportunity to make comparisons with other horns, my criticism is limited for the moment. I'd love to produce my own horns, and that will probably be the subject of another dedicated post.

Here are few pictures of the fabrication:

04A993C4-B318-4D1B-A52C-81EEE00D526D_1_105_c.jpeg

08360F9D-7A0F-416C-B893-9C645146513A_1_105_c.jpeg

E2E05E0A-7A35-4FD5-BDC9-B66440DB735A_1_105_c.jpeg

1873DADB-A77A-4EBF-A071-2F12077BFB8A_1_105_c.jpeg


Feel free to ask for details about the design, or even the plans! One of the goals of this project is to provide everything needed for anyone who wants to build it themselves and improve upon it!

For Sale Vintage philips "mustard" axial epoxy dipped metallised polyester capacitors (311 series) 400v and 160v

Hi.

Those are 90% labelled bianchi, some philips are available too.
Do not hesitate to message me if interested.

Prices depend on value and availability, but I will keep them as reasonable as possible.
For instance, 18k 400v caps are 2,5 eur each.

Shipping worldwide from Spain is very reasonable, tracked. I'm shipping to USA, Australia, Japan... all the time, at around 8 eur. Same with Europe.

All typical values available!!
Plenty of 22k, 100k, 10k, 2k2 @ 400v etc

Attachments

  • IMG_4868.jpg
    IMG_4868.jpg
    49.5 KB · Views: 53
  • IMG_4866 (1).jpg
    IMG_4866 (1).jpg
    67.4 KB · Views: 44
  • IMG_4863.jpg
    IMG_4863.jpg
    75.9 KB · Views: 48
  • 2k2.JPG
    2k2.JPG
    61.3 KB · Views: 47
  • IMG_4870.jpg
    IMG_4870.jpg
    64.5 KB · Views: 44
  • IMG_4866.jpg
    IMG_4866.jpg
    67.4 KB · Views: 50
  • IMG_4871.jpg
    IMG_4871.jpg
    79.2 KB · Views: 56

For Sale NOS Vintage Piher carbon film resistors 1/2W and 1W 60's and 70's

Hi !

I own a large stock of Piher resistors from the 60's and 70s, more than 30.000 pieces, all common values in 1/2w and most 1w available.
Would love to sell some spares or amplifier sets to people replicating or restoring vintage european amplifiers of this era.
I've sold over 5000 resistors already, all over the world, and I offer really competitive prices.

Do not hesitate to message me if interested.
A typical amplifier set, (around 35 mixed 1/2w and 1w resistors) for instance, goes around 60eur + shipping

Shipping worldwide from Spain is very reasonable, tracked. From 7 eur to 15eur. Shipped a lot to USA or Australia, and it goes around 10eur, and arrives as quickly as those orders shipped to Europe. European shipments are around 7eur.

Thank you.

Attachments

  • lgm0yw3ceppslrnztd72.webp
    lgm0yw3ceppslrnztd72.webp
    40.7 KB · Views: 51
  • wggriu6hxxepjfrga518.jpg
    wggriu6hxxepjfrga518.jpg
    69.6 KB · Views: 52
  • Like
Reactions: OtisCampbell

Tantalum Capacitors in Signal Path

Hi,

there is a lot of dicsussion on capacitors
anyway, but i've a special question:

Despite their bad reputation i've found tantalums
in the audio signal path of comercial products
from time to time.

My examples are :

Thorens PPA 990 :MC pre-pre-amp: tantalum as coupling
capacitor between discrete transistor stages

Marantz 2325 : Tantalum as input coupling capacitor in Phono
MM preamp

DENON POA800 : Tantalum in the inverter for bridge mode

You might have more examples. I admit, at least the Thorens
and the Marantz are somewhat vintage...not shure about the age
of the DENON design.

So if there are designers designing devices with say 50 +
electrolyts, and deciding to throw in a tanatlum at only one
out of 50 positions, i assume they have good reasons to do so !?
Most likely it is not the costs.

So are there any situations where a tantalum beats a standard
aluminium (or whatever) electrolyt?

My examples 1 and 2 could lead to the assumption, that a
tantalum is better, when there are yery low signal levels
together with relative high DC to block? Can someone
confirm ? Other Ideas?

Probably, nowaday's electolyts are better than those from
30 Years ago, so a tantalum would have been a valid choice
then but not today?

What would you recommend? Leave them in place, replace
against a new tantalum, replace against a regular low-ESR
electrolyt ? (Pleas no not suggest replace against foil etc,
I know, these are better then electolyts, but those foils
won't always fit)

Thanks a lot in advance for your valued comments,

regards,

Stephan

AmyAlice SLIM - SMPS filter

Hi. Starting a thread with Marks blessing and several forum members inquiries about slimmed down version of AmyAlice brilliant smps filter. Size is 6.5cmx2.8cm

To start off, everything is the same as on OG AmyAlice BOM and schematic (with addition of power on led, doesn't influence the circuit in the least, just adds visual). Size is slimmed down to my personal preference due to me utilizing quite small cases for most of my projects, and slim pcbs always find a way to fit in. There is also a factor of my OCD for aesthetics, so i make stuff that looks good to my eye.

Version 1 is now v1.01 as i increased pad sizes for much easier hand soldering. I usually use hotplate, but since it's a public release, it will definitely help out whoever decides to buils it (you can see on 3d rendering component sizes and increased pad sizes). Device is tested (included photos of V1 with regular pad sizes, hand soldered to test) working as intended. There will be even smaller, slimmer versions in the future, topic will be updated accordingly.

UltraSlim V1.01 at post #15
Size 62x14mm.

Attachments

  • amyred.JPG
    amyred.JPG
    38.3 KB · Views: 518
  • amyblue.JPG
    amyblue.JPG
    44.8 KB · Views: 470
  • amybottom3d.JPG
    amybottom3d.JPG
    40.4 KB · Views: 465
  • amytop3d.JPG
    amytop3d.JPG
    34.6 KB · Views: 527
  • Amyalice v1.01.zip
    Amyalice v1.01.zip
    32 KB · Views: 196
  • 20240222_192451.jpg
    20240222_192451.jpg
    482.7 KB · Views: 521
  • 20240222_193128.jpg
    20240222_193128.jpg
    245 KB · Views: 536

Accuphase F-25 active crossover board mod help

I'm looking to modify the Xover frequency of some Accuphase F-25 Xover boards.

The F-25 uses Gaussian filters realised using Generalised Immitance Converters (GICs).

We've tried comparing the RC values on different boards and adjusting accordingly but are getting confusing results on board modified for 20Hz low pass which seems to have become "all-pass".

Can anyone give me any advice please?

Thanks!

Ccda octal tube issue

Hi
I've build ccda preamp octal like a year ago . Bought lots of 6H8C (6n8s) and 6sn7gt as lot of nos tubes from ebay just for test . Some tubes was noisy , some have microphonics , some broken not work. I choose 2 working good and been very happy with the sound . Mean time build lampizator octal output for my rpi dac and also no problem. I follow many projects from lampizator and i've build tester for tubes then i find out how not matched they are . I get to point if it sounds so good on not matched random tubes I want better matched tubes , so I bought some matched pair from ebay . Here is problem like non of ebay sellers checking tubes according to sound , just match them electronically , so they send me more tubes and I have now just more tubes , but no good tubes . Some of sellers stating is something wrong with my circuit , then why if tube is noisy I swap tubes beetwen channels and noise is in other channel ? I've build all on new parts , no cheap parts , every part matched beetwen channels , make my own cases , no transistor in circuit , no electrolitic caps , point to point soldering , psu in separate case with ez80 rectifier . Some time ago I've build tetra sans PS with 6n1p same point to point solder and it sounds awesome with out problems . My experience with tubes is like a novice so I could make mistake but where ?
I'm not sure now is it me doing something wrong , or maybe i did it too good ?

Attachments

  • DSC_3473.JPG
    DSC_3473.JPG
    212.5 KB · Views: 32
  • DSC_3465.JPG
    DSC_3465.JPG
    277.2 KB · Views: 42
  • Screenshot_20250409-082029_MJ PDF.png
    Screenshot_20250409-082029_MJ PDF.png
    472.1 KB · Views: 52
  • DSC_3117.JPG
    DSC_3117.JPG
    223.6 KB · Views: 43

Thoughts on my modded Marshall 2203 build?

I built a modded Marshall 2203 guitar amp a few years back and ended up needing to do some prototyping on it to get it right.
Basically its the same schematic but with different B+ voltages and using 807 tubes (based on the advice of an old fella who has now since passed away.)
Looking back now I would have just built a pure replica with EL34 tubes, but hey this thing is unique!
My main concerns are around Bias voltages, plate voltages on preamp tubes and poor presence control.
The amplifier seems to sound OK, but I felt it did not put out as much power on the low sensitive input as the high did.
Not too sure if this is normal for this design or not, but its still pretty damn loud when cranked up full, from memory im getting closer to 200W on the high sensitivity input when overdriven.
This thing is a beast for sure.

So the mods are as follows:
B+ 400V
807 output tubes
12AT7 phase inverter
everything before the phase inverter is the same as the marshall design, I have highlighted my changes in red on the schematic.

When taking measurements, i got the feeling that the plate voltages on the preamp tubes might be high, the old guy also told me to change the resistor values on the power supply at the top (highlighted in red) changing the original 10K value didnt seem to reduce the plate voltages much, so i just left at 4.7K and 1K respectively.

Voltages measure as follows:
V1A anode to ground 280V
V1B anode to ground 335V
V2A cathode to ground 1.5V, anode to ground 191V
V2B cathode to ground 190V, anode to ground 383V, across anode to cathode 189V
Phase inverter, anode to ground 265V, across anode and cathode 168V

Do any of these voltages look too high? 335V on V1B seemed a bit too high to me.
As far as presence control goes, even the original marshalls had poor response and little to no difference in sound is observed, I dropped it down to 4.7K from 100K and it makes more of a difference to the negative feedback received, the difference in the phase inverter may also have a role to play.
As far as bias voltage goes, i think ive got it sitting around -50V from memory, Im not sure ive got this right, as a rule 10% of plate voltage should be applied, I think i went by ear mostly and left it where I felt it sounded right, but I should revisit this.
Any other feedback is appreciated, largely the amp seems to run sweet, but I just want to tidy this thing up and order some new resistors to replace the ones ive tacked on while prototyping it.

See schematic attached, modded values are marked in red.

Attachments

  • 2203.jpg
    2203.jpg
    194.8 KB · Views: 274
  • 1.jpg
    1.jpg
    106 KB · Views: 243
  • 2.jpg
    2.jpg
    113.5 KB · Views: 248

viral projects, sort of

stay safe my friends!

here are some projects i am working on at home

first i got some old vifa midranges back from a friend, and I got small dayton amt to mate them with
vifa 13wh-00-08 is somewhat special midrange, free of the breakup grunge, even the ones i got are old, they still measure nice

here are some pics from the build, work in progress

may go active!

Attachments

  • vifa1.jpg
    vifa1.jpg
    791 KB · Views: 1,161
  • vifa2.jpg
    vifa2.jpg
    156.7 KB · Views: 1,156
  • vifa3.jpg
    vifa3.jpg
    365.6 KB · Views: 1,127
  • vifa4.jpg
    vifa4.jpg
    229.6 KB · Views: 1,137

Looking for ADC and DAC schematics

I chose this project for my university assignment: Login to view embedded media . I completely forgot about the project, and now I only have 2 weeks left. To at least show that I’ve done something, I need PCB designs for ADC, DAC, and amplifier circuits. If you have any design, no matter what it is, that could help, I would really appreciate it if you could share it. Thank you in advance.

Wima or Panasonic ECW Film decision

Which one of those two 1uf could be better for power and signal path application (and bypass too)?
I've used the Wima 63v 1uf (pet) with fantastic results but i've looked around and seems like that polypropylene is a much better choice over polyethylene terephthalate (pet)

Wima : https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/505-MKS4C041003C00KJ
Panasonic ECW : https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/667-ECW-FD2W105K4
Projects by fanatics, for fanatics
Get answers and advice for everyone wanting to learn the art of audio.
Join the Community
507,503
Members
7,874,952
Messages

Filter

Forum Statistics

Threads
405,618
Messages
7,874,952
Members
507,503
Latest member
joseespona