Question about passive bass treble board

So i found this passive bass treble board on Aliexpress that seems somewhat decent imo

https://a.aliexpress.com/_oFtNCp8

İ am thinking of using it between the preamp and the power amp section of a diy tube amp
İ have a few questions about it tho

What would be the cons of using a passive board over a active one

İn the description of the board it says that the output gain is 0.5 which is half of input gain would that be a huge loss and does it mean it outputs %50 less sound than the input

Thanks in advance,

Hey guys

I have been gathering a lot of very important info from all the discussions here and I would love to start being able to write a few comments myself. I am from CZ, I studied architecture in France and I live in Canada. I am currently designing my first speaker build, since this will cost me a lot of time I decided to go fairly high end, specially in the cabinet design. I will be using CNC trans laminated wood to achieve curved forms and I am looking for some advice on driver selection.

Moode on Raspberry Pi 3, no video

Hi, I am moving my audio system (which includes a Raspberry Pi 3 running Moode, a SMSL DAC, connected to the local WIFI) to a new home.

All was working fine.

In the new place I connected the RB to an external monitor and keyboard to configure the connection through the new WIFI. However, soon after logging into moode the video signal is lost. If I'm fast I can manage to run a command, but then it's gone. This has happened with three different monitors, with different cables. Any clue about what might be happening?

Thanks,

David

Push-Pull and SET

Would someone please clarify, in a push-pull tube amplifier, two pairs of power tubes operate in opposition of phase.
The audio signal is applied to two power tubes—one with a positive polarity and the other with a negative polarity.
One pushes the speaker cone the other pulls it.
In a SET amplifier does one tube only push the cone forwards and backwards or only forwards?

Many thanks
EZ

Auto standby feature, looking for a way to increase shutoff time or sensitivity to signal

Hey guys, noob alert!

I've bought a cheap used TEAC SW-P200 subwoofer and it works just fine for my use case... apart from the damned auto standby feature!

There's no way to turn it off or change the sensitivity of it so I'm stuck with the sub working great while there's enough "oomph" in the signal (like listening to music or action scenes/games) but as soon as the content gets quiet it turns off after about a minute.
It turns back on as soon as "something" happens, like an explosion, but its annoying and the poor relay switch has to continuously tick-tack every few minutes...

Unfortunately there's no way for me to increase the signal level at the source so probably the easiest way would be to just remove the relay and bridge the contacts but if possible I'd prefer to keep it as is and make it more "sensitive" to the incoming signal or increase the shutoff time

I cant find any service manuals or schemes online for this model and honestly even if I did I still wouldn't understand what I'm looking at without some help 😆 I've opened the back and there are 2 PCBs connected by a flat cable, the main one where all the main electronics live and a smaller one where the LFE IN and volume knob are connected.

What do you think? Is it possible just by looking at some photos for you guys to figure out how the standby circuit works and help me find what can be replaced? Hopefully a resistor or something like that!

Thanks a lot!

DIY loudspeaker for living room wanted BR/CB no matter

Hello friends of sound transducers,

My milling machine is hungry, and so are my ears, so I would like to build some loudspeakers for my living room. I have already filled out the following questionnaire:

-How much money can be spent (per piece/total - with/without cabinet)
approx. 300€ without cabinet

-How big is the room?
20 square meters

-How can the speakers be set up? (a small sketch with location, furniture and listening position is very helpful)
Approximately square room, stereo system / TV set against one wall, sofa opposite against the other wall. Speakers to the left/right of the stereo system. From the sofa, the windows are on the left wall, the entrance door to the living room is on the right wall.

-Do you want floorstanding speakers, compact speakers, wall speakers or something else?
I had imagined something like the LS from the 60/70s, in terms of appearance. For example, L100 or Beovox 2400 and similar.

-How big can the speakers be?
(HxWxD approx. 600x350x400)

-Is a subwoofer available? (if yes, please describe in detail)
No

-Which amplifier will be used?
Onkyo A8820

-What do you want to listen to through the speakers?
Rock, metal, hip-hop, movies

-How loud should it be?
Higher room volume, there are songs that you have to feel

-How low should the speakers go (Hz)?
As low as possible

-Is great importance attached to neutrality?
Hm, I would like to feel the bass in my diaphragm, clear voice reproduction, defined highs

-Is there anything in particular that is important (full range, sub-sat combination, closed construction, number of ways, manufacturer, active speaker, horn, etc.)?
I'm not sure. I once read that a closed system would have advantages in terms of bass reproduction as I want it, but I also read that it depends more on the drivers. I was thinking of 2 ways, but I'm happy to be proven wrong. I think I would be tempted by 10 or even 12 inches.

I have measuring equipment and software for evaluation.

I hope that you can give me any suggestions.
Thank you very much in advance.

Cheers,
Frederik

Android <-> ADC USB isolation

I want my phone that I use for field recording data storage out of the ground equation. Also external power feed for long recording sessions.
  • I have a working recording system using an OTG cable between the ADC and the phone.
  • In order not to drain the phone from power feeding the ADC, I have made an y-split cable to connect a IKEA USB battery bank - it works good.
Now, introducing a USB isolator with possibility for power feeding downlink device.
  • Using an ordinary USB-A to USB-micro (phone), the phone is charging from a battery bank (an other IKEA unit)
  • Using an OTG cable, the phone is not charged.
  • In none of the two cases above with the isolator do I get any signal transferred. The phone app says in both cases: "No USB recording device detected".
Units involved are:

I have tried most variants in which order the different things (units, power units, cables...) are started up and connected to each other.

I have tried the Isolator between an RME Digiface and a Mac Mini - it works and sound OK. (perhaps even an improvement actually..)


Why? Any hints or suggestions or obvious errors made? What could be the problem?

Thanks in advance...

//

Attachments

  • no_otg.jpg
    no_otg.jpg
    209.7 KB · Views: 102
  • otg.jpg
    otg.jpg
    162.6 KB · Views: 107

Adding loudness compensation to tube preamp

Hello there. I am trying to add a compensation circuit very similar to the one explained here to a tube preamplifier based on a simple E88CC common cathode stage + cathode follower.


I am adding the compensation circuit between the balance and volume control. The thing is that I have high frequency attenuation.


Please see attachments.
1718625237413.png


1718625256221.png


If if bypass the balance control, the frequency response looks as it should in the LTspice simulation.


I believe this is an impedance mismatch problem but I cannot move the circuit after the cathode follower cause it works together with the volume control which is at the input.
NOTES: I dont want to move the volume after the cathode follower and also don't want to add another potentiometer for the compensation.
I also cannot use a four gang volume potentiometer.

I tried changing the balance pot value to a lower 10k, which seems to cure the problem but input impedance drops way too much to load sources properly.

Any ideas? THANK YOU!

Interstage transformers for 26

Selling 1x pair of interstage transformers for 26 as driver tube, made by Dorin Bodea

25k:25k, 10ma optimised for 26, 6SN7

More info here: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/26-pre-amp.151421/page-265#post-7213064


Sold

Attachments

  • tempImageMMmyhM.gif
    tempImageMMmyhM.gif
    1.5 MB · Views: 194
  • tempImageEMHR5O.gif
    tempImageEMHR5O.gif
    1.5 MB · Views: 241
  • tempImageQL1UsM.gif
    tempImageQL1UsM.gif
    1.5 MB · Views: 185

Running 12AX7 filament using a 24V DC power supply

Hello everyone.
I'm about to build my first project with a vacuum tube, hence I will want to use a low tension configuration, and for that I have a spare 24V, rated 1A, 24W DC power supply I don't use for anything.
My doubt is about supplying voltage for the filaments: is the wiring the same as for AC? So if I wire them in series I need to connect 12V to one, connect its end to the other one and then this ones end to ground, right?
In particular, and this is the the biggest doubt, will a voltage divider from the 24V supply suffice at providing the needed 12V? If so, say I wanna use two 100k resistors for that, what power rating should they be?

Can this dome do a 1st order high pass?

https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.c...-illuminator-d3004/6022-00-26mm-dome-tweeter/

With an Fs of 440hz and the small faceplate for close location to a mid, I bet it’s possible if we’re not looking for more than 100db dynamic peaks in the mid field

Troels distortion measures suggest it’s possible


http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/D3004-602200.htm

Crossed to a 5” mid?………i think it might be worth a try?
  • Like
Reactions: Arez

For Sale A Treasure Trove of DIY Audio Boards

I have a large variety of DIY audio boards that I am selling. Some of these are new and unopened, and some have been gently used in a prototype development.

I'll entertain reasonable offers, and actual shipping will be added to the agreed price. I have listed the orignal prices paid for these for guidance in any offers.

Ian Canada Boards:

26A UcConditioner MK-II 3.3V UltraCapacitor conditioner boards (2 each. Unopened, does not include the ultra caps). Original cost 74.17 Euros each

33A Linear Pi Dual Low noise Power Supplies (2 each, so 4 supplies total. New unopened) Original cost 104.17 Euros each

IVSTD MK II Output stage module for ESS DAC (ES9038Q2MPi) (RPi Hat) (used) Original cost 49.9 Euros

ES9038Q2MPi DM Plus ESS Dual Mono DAC with Controller (2 each. Used) Original cost 132.41 Euros each

FIFO Pi Q3 32 bit 768 kHz Reclocker (includes 45.1384 and 49.152 MHz Chrystek Ultra Low Phase Noise Clocks. Original cost 197.34 Euros

StationPi Shielded adapter for RaspberryPi and Audio Modules (e.g the FIFO-ESS DAC-ANd Output hats) Original cost 49.92 Euros.

TransportPi Low Jitter Digital Interface (New opened) Original cost 74.17 Euros

AudioPhonics Boards:

Audio-GD PSU 2019 Linear 12V power supply. (2 each. New) Original cost 29.08 Euros each

RaspberryPi Boards:

Raspberry Pi 4 Model B (Used) Original Cost $40

Raspberry Pi 3 Model B (Used) Original Cost $40


Mini DSP Stuff:

Nano Digi 2X8 (New unopened) Original cost $155.00

MiniDSP V 1.9 + MiniDigi V 1.2 Combo Original cost $125.00

MiniDigi V 1.2 Original Cost $60

MiniSHARC V 1.2 SHARC based DSP Original Cost $185.00

UMIK (calibrated USB Microphone) Original Cost $75

Texas Instruments Eval Boards:

PCM 5122 EVM-U DAC Eval Board (Used) Origianl cost $199..00

SRC 4382/92 EVM 4392 ASRC Eval Board (Used) Original cost $149.00

PCM 4222 EVM 4222 ADC Eval Board. Original Cost $154.26


All of these were working when last used. Sold as-is and untested. If you have a problem with one, send it back and I'll refund your money.

Microphonic Emitter Resistors

I came across an interesting phenomenon today. I was measuring an amplifier distortion at 5W, 1kHz into a dummy load and I noticed that the amplifier itself was emitting a 1kHz tone. My ears aren't great, so if I could hear it, then it must be quite loud. After a bit of experimentation, I determined the sound was actually coming from the dual 2W emitter resistors. If I put my fingers on them to apply some damping, then the sound level dropped considerably. I noted that they are on 'long legs' to give them plenty of air. The long legs will obviously help them to vibrate quite nicely. I was just wondering if anybody else has encountered this phenomenon? I'm wondering even if I replace them, will it change anything?

Concrete Cabinet Loudspeakers Faradaysound

Hi. I used to make the excellent Faraday low density concrete cabinet loudspeakers. I can still supply a DIY construction guide which may be of interest to enthusiasts as well as people generally interested in eliminating panel vibrations in loudspeaker design. I usually have something on eBay mentioning Faradaysound, but a member of this forum recently contacted me. So I thought I’d better join! Peter
  • Like
Reactions: Gulo_Gulo

Panasonic UB450 - discussions, upgrades

In the last time I had the opportunity to examine and upgrade a Panasonic UB450. When one look at this device and know its price in shop, then one`s first thought hearing about upgrading it, is: what to upgrade to this cheap device?

Indeed, this device is a very cheap media player, meant to playback discs, streaming over the network, as playback for media files through the device USB port. The optical device is a cheap whole plastic item. Working well, but a little bit noisy. The chassis is made of a less 1mm thickness steel plate, with a cheap, whole plastic front panel. The whole device it consists of a small low-profile box.

Inside we find a small one main board, with all of necessary chips on it. A glued heatsink partially placed over the main processor as over the memory chips in central area of the board. No any analogue section for audio. Also, much unnecessary these days an such dedicated analogue audio section, when one is largely using video processors to get analogue audio quality out, or other similar solutions. A local analogue audio section it has its own advantages when about outputted quality sound, but in this case for cost effectiveness reasons, it was decided not to be implemented.

The power supply of the player is an external one, a small compact SMPS type, to be connected directly to the outlet.

Well, this cheap device, and out of the box, is indeed capable of a very good picture quality. It was my first surprise in using it. I own and use myself an UB9000. Comparing UB450 with UB9000 was very easy, and UB9000 is indeed surpassed by this new and cheap UB450. Not only similar picture quality out of the stock UB450, compared with an upgraded UB9000, but a much better user interface as well for UB450. Very fast Menu navigation. Much user-friendly interface. No hanging or freezing, as very annoying it happen in case of UB9000. Very fast loading and ready to playback for files residing on a USB stick. Lot of GB getting ready for use in around a second, while one should wait many teens of seconds for the same to happen on an UB9000. I have noted especially about the HDR functionality on this UB450. It really makes a difference, is very obvious and improving a lot the picture quality. One realises indeed what mean HDR improvement when using this UB450 device.

Initially I was myself sceptical about the results of an upgrade for a such cheap item. And what to upgrade more, for a such picture quality out of a stock UB450?

Then I proceeded to a close examination of the electronic design, firstly targeting to adapt the power supply approach for the use of an LPS. Mainly, it was about replacing the DC 12v main rail, provided by the original small SMPS box, with a linear analogue 12vDC solution. Not difficult task also.

Proceeding accordingly, and after using an improvised LPS circuit (see picture), I had another pleasant surprise. The use of a linear power supply it confirmed once more that it can improve a lot even an original high video quality. However, one cannot realise this difference, but only after an LPS it is providing power instead of an SMPS to the targeted digital circuitry or device. The difference is there, is obvious, and is pleasant. All pictures’ parameters are improved: brightness, contrast, colour, tonal range, finer details, noises level. Everything it get in fact better.

Then I decided that this upgrade is really worthy and it need an more professional approach. So, I designed an LPS which it will fit into the available place inside the small enclosure. I was initially appreciating that the heat generating by a such lower power LPS for this device, it may not represent an issue. Thinking it will be enough to dissipate the eventual heat through the metal parts around, bottom of the chassis and the tiny steel plate cover, with a passive ventilation. Well, I was enough wrong about the heat. Even low amount heat, the heatsink it could not be that big, and the dissipation effectiveness it was not good through the chassis bottom, and the cover. I improved the thermal contact, but not enough either. The inside temperature was rising against 60°C with passive ventilation. In the end I realised that the best ventilation solution is using a fan to force the air out of the small enclosure. The enclosure it was originally provided with ventilation holes, which it could be used for this forced ventilation approach. Choosing the right silent fan, powering it from an added dedicated regulator on LPS board. A large hole (fan dimension/diameter) should be carved into the bottom of the chassis, for the fan to effectively exhaust the hot air from inside, while fresh air coming through the original ventilation holes. This solution it was effective indeed, and the inside temperature went down to 45°. Reasonable result, and nothing it affected the original shape and visual aspect of the player. The fan is running fully silent, mounted on a good dumping material. I have also mounted new and higher dumping feet for the chassis.

I have placed on the LPS board also circuits for the two oscillators (upgrade) for the main processor and the video processor chip. The original clocking approach is using resonators connected to the inbuild clock generators inside the main processor and video chip. Classical cheap clocking design solution.

Well, this LPS placed inside the device enclosure it should be powered by a transformer which very obviously it has no place inside such small enclosure. An external nice and professional enclosure solution had to be adopted. HF and DC blocking filtering cells are also added to this external power solution.

For such a cheap tiny device, a such expensive LPS solution! Well, in the end I appreciated as worthy. The improvement gain in quality for picture and digital sound is remarkably high. In the end, the whole upgrade cost it exceeds by far the device selling price… However, as overall costs (device + upgrades) it still yet be lower than upgrading another type of player, as UB9000 or whatever. And the quality out of UB450, it exceeds what is possible being obtaining from a more expensive device (upgraded).

The overall conclusion: everything it worth for the final results.

MainBoard.jpg


LPStransformer.jpg


LPStransformer box.jpg


FirstVersionLPS.jpg


fan.jpg


FinalView.jpg
  • Like
Reactions: prodarek

6Π3C Application

I have a home brew stereo, cathode biased push pull amp with octal power tube sockets, a single 12ax7 per channel for AF stage/phase splitter and Fisher 7591A OTs (30:1 turns ratio). I’m running 6L6GCs now with 480R cathode resistors, a 305 volt Maida screen regulator and a 405 volt plate.

I have a set of new 6Π3C tubes (not 6Π3C-E mind you). I gather they are 6L6GA ish. Do you think I could substitute these at that plate and screen potential without shorting them? I have some 680R cathode resistors to dial down the current some.

Any local knowledge regarding these 6Π3C tubes would be appreciated.

Unboxing ZK-MT21 TPA3116

Unpacking / unboxing

ZK-MT21 TPA3116​


And some smps which fits it.

IMG_20230929_133554.jpg

Attachments

  • IMG_20230929_133510.jpg
    IMG_20230929_133510.jpg
    567.8 KB · Views: 493
  • IMG_20230929_133523.jpg
    IMG_20230929_133523.jpg
    464.8 KB · Views: 462
  • IMG_20230929_133528.jpg
    IMG_20230929_133528.jpg
    578.4 KB · Views: 410
  • IMG_20230929_133532.jpg
    IMG_20230929_133532.jpg
    237.1 KB · Views: 494
  • IMG_20230929_133543.jpg
    IMG_20230929_133543.jpg
    549.9 KB · Views: 495
  • IMG_20230929_133554.jpg
    IMG_20230929_133554.jpg
    441.7 KB · Views: 431
  • IMG_20230929_133603.jpg
    IMG_20230929_133603.jpg
    526.1 KB · Views: 395
  • IMG_20230929_135351.jpg
    IMG_20230929_135351.jpg
    441 KB · Views: 433
  • IMG_20230929_133811.jpg
    IMG_20230929_133811.jpg
    553.9 KB · Views: 551
  • IMG_20230929_133751.jpg
    IMG_20230929_133751.jpg
    377.9 KB · Views: 615

The equivalent circuit of a pot with center tap

I'm seriously curious about the equivalent circuit of a potentiometer with center tap which is usually used to be a volume with loudness function. It contains 4 terminals where the 4th terminal is the center tap connection. However, most simulation software don't have the 4-terminal symbol as attached. So, I wonder whether we could draw the equivalent circuit by a regular potentiometer (only have 3 terminals) with additional resistor(s). Please advice

PotMeterWithMidPoint.JPG

What to do with these Eminence drivers?

Just got a pair of Eminence Alpha 10A
A Facebay score but I will use the boxes these came in for something else probably.
I've not much experience with Pro drivers and could use some advice on where to cross these and how low would be best suited to a medium sized sealed box.
Eminence give a range of 8 to 12 litres but how big is too big?
All wild conjecture will be read, some may even be acted on. I don't have any big speaker stands so a box loaded with a couple of cheap 12s may be made to sit the Eminence on and maybe I can use my big tweeter here?

Creek Audio Destiny: Help with adjusting VR2

Hi All, I have rebuilt a Destiny Integrated with several new components. I've replaced the original HUF76639 MOSFETS with IRL2910 MOSFETS, which seem to be the best substitute. All seems to be working well. The idle voltage is stable around 21.5mV +/-.5mV every few minutes. I'm ecstatic it simply works after all the work I put into it. I've adjusted VR2 CW as little as possible for VR1 to adjust the idle voltage. I found that VR1 did take several turns before adjusting the idle voltage from .25 to 1 mV, and then rises exponentially WRT VR1. VR1 is around 30 ohms when idle voltage is at 21.5mV.

How important is fine tuning VR2? if I turn it CW this will increase the voltage across SR1 (LM336-5.0)(pins 4 and 8) passed 6 volts which is out of spec (4-6 volts) according to the data sheet. Right now SR1 (4-8) is at 5.93 volts. I am wondering if having adjusted VR2 out of factory settings will cause issues down the road with other components. Is adjusting VR2 important? If so, how should it be adjusted? Or are there other measurements I should make to verify the amp is working within design parameters? Any help is appreciated.

Attachments

  • Screen Shot 2020-11-28 at 9.43.49 AM.png
    Screen Shot 2020-11-28 at 9.43.49 AM.png
    233.6 KB · Views: 882

IanCanda Pi4b DAC + Streamer build not working

I have had this assembled for a month and have asked the iancanda support email for assistance several times and get no response.

To start, is anyone willing to confirm that my stack order is possible for a Streamer + DAC?

The below stack order was used on a Station Pi MK2a base.

Left side (DAC)
1. Station Pi Pro MK2a
2. Daughter board
3. RPi 4 B
4. Amenero Combo384

* the RPi and Combo 384 are side by side on top of the daughter board of the StationPi.

Right Side (Audio)
1. StationPi Pro
2. FifoPi Q7 II
3. HDMI Pro II (connected to FifoPi via U.FL cable to MClock #1)
4. Shield Pi
5. ES 9038Q2M DualMono DacHAT (also connected to FifoPi via U.FL into MClock#2)
6. TransformerPi IV

*Both the FifoPi Q7 II and the ES9038Q2M have MonitorPi Pro's connected.

- this whole unit is powered by a Duel LinearPi MKII in 5v & 3.3v configuration. On top of each the linearPi are a set of UC conditioners 1 for 5v and the other for 3.3v.

- The LinearPi is powered by a Hammond 1182N6 transformer.

Should a Dac + Streamer work with the above stack configuration?


Thank you,

How to set output level for equipment measurements with REW and Scarlett Solo?

I am using the output RCA jacks on my Scarlett to send tones to equipment under test. I can adjust the output level in REW in increments of dBFS, to a maximum of -3 dBFS. I can also adjust the output level by turning the "Monitor" knob on the Scarlett. My instinct is to set the software to maximum and use the knob for final adjustment, but I'm unsure?

For Sale Audio Note DAC 5

For sale is an Audio Note Dac 5 in parts. The boards have already been assembled except for the analog board. It has the galahad power supply. I believe the green board is an experimental analog boarf. The extra boards are not populated and are exact boards used in the dac 5. This are all untested and will need to be assembled. All transformers are complete. There is bo chassis. I don’t know the history of where they came from as I only got them on a trade.

This is your chance to own a great dac provided you can assemble it. The Dac 5 sells for $30k.

Im asking $1500.00 or best offer. Just send me an offer. Pls email me @ ivardlr2018@gmail.com

Thanks

Attachments

  • 3FDB1C35-3477-4B18-90B7-77FADB7B8E36.jpg
    3FDB1C35-3477-4B18-90B7-77FADB7B8E36.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 1,243
  • C699A9A9-6528-44D2-A806-657FEA30FF6B.jpg
    C699A9A9-6528-44D2-A806-657FEA30FF6B.jpg
    1 MB · Views: 1,184
  • FA3CFAE4-0F10-4A0F-8E18-CF7238974FDD.jpg
    FA3CFAE4-0F10-4A0F-8E18-CF7238974FDD.jpg
    1 MB · Views: 1,117
  • F2E56738-3214-4575-B8B9-9A5C7730D373.jpg
    F2E56738-3214-4575-B8B9-9A5C7730D373.jpg
    1 MB · Views: 1,097
  • 8F7F55DA-984A-42D7-BFF2-6A7AA5739174.jpg
    8F7F55DA-984A-42D7-BFF2-6A7AA5739174.jpg
    1 MB · Views: 1,090
  • 8ADE15D0-A753-45F1-BBC2-5DE5671577C2.jpg
    8ADE15D0-A753-45F1-BBC2-5DE5671577C2.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 753

April 2024 - How much PC do you really need?

Hi,

My old Windows 8 Media Centre PC is no longer reliable and of course Windows 8 is long out of support. I no longer need my tv card as we have a STB and a smart TV so that covers that aspect.

I’d prefer to avoid the bulk of a mini ATX style PC that I used previously so I started looking at the small NUC style computers like the gigabyte BRIX series. They can be had with very low cost processors like the J series Celeron, through Pentuim, i3 and AMD ryzen CPUs.

I am most familiar with Windows and use Linux very rarely, so for me that would be an easy path. I did briefly consider an SBC like say the ODroid N2+ that has a Kodi based media center bundled, but I really have no idea if that would work well for me. All my media is either FLAC or WMA lossless and I use Qobuz as my main streaming platform.

Is something like the BRIX with 1.6 GHz Celeron good enough for media centre duties with a 4K TV and probably jriver?

Would anyone strongly advocate the N2+ / Linux instead? This is available fanless.

Ideally no fans, or at least a quiet one. I find laptop fans tend be noisier than quiet pc fans since they run fast and tend to hiss somewhat.

I’d like to hear your thoughts and experiences.

Many thanks.

New member

Hello everyone! I’m new to this forum but not to electronics. I have been dabbling with radios, amps, and other electronics since I was 10 years old (I’m 64 now). I am a member at several other radio and electronics forums. I’m also a member of the Michigan Antique Radio Club. I tend to buy the worst of the worst when it comes to amps. It’s no fun if it isn’t a challenge! I look forward to any contributions I can make and hopefully get some good advice for some of my projects. Should have a Dynaco 400 sitting on the porch when I get home. My next project! Just finished up a couple of Dynaco stereo 120’s and a stereo 410, a PAT 4, a FM5, and a Realistic equalizer. I hope to get a copy of The Audio Amateur 3-83 from FrankW as soon as the mods give me permission! Thanks guys for having me!
  • Like
Reactions: CWelsh52

Hello from San Antonio

Greetings all!
Ive been in the pursuit of Hifi for a bit now. What started as a way to pass time during Covid has turned into a full blown hobby of mine. Naturally I’ve taken an interest in doing things myself and getting more hands on. I’ve been lurking this site for a while now but it’s finally about time to start working on my first amp build.
  • Like
Reactions: CWelsh52

Replace a blown EV ETX18SP driver with a Car Audio 18 inch woofer with similar specs.

Hello, new to the forum.. thanks for having me. I currently have

2 EV ETX18SP subs, in the last 1.5 years both of the drivers have shredded. Now you might think over driving them, certainly not the case neither of these speakers were ever driven passed the 1DB increase on the volume control. 80hz was the regular frequency and crossover set for SUB only to allow Mids/Highs to be connected to output of the sub. It seems to me the EV 18inch drivers are just poorly made and cannot handle the bass output with such a short throw. My question, If I match OHMs, And get as close to DB rating as I can, could I add a more powerful car audio 18inch sub to replace these junk EV drivers? Has anyone ever done this? Thanks in advance.

Powered PA Speaker for Bass and Guitar at Home

I am looking for advice about a suitable powered speaker that would serve as the main/only monitor for playing electric guitar and bass at home. I am hoping for something in a $200-$300 range, preferably, or less.

My daughter plays bass, and I play guitar. We do not use any instrument amps: we use preamps and a few other effect pedals to create tone, feed instruments into a small mixer deck, which goes to a powered speaker - that's the speaker I am looking for. (Currently, we use an old Yamaha home theater sub and a cheap Squier guitar amp together as a makeshift monitor, which does not sound great.)

So, I am hoping for a single PA speaker that would work reasonably well for both bass and guitar, and - occasionally - for both together when we jam.

We play in a regular-sized living room, so thundering volume is not needed but reasonable frequency response would be nice.

As I understand, for bass, a 15" speaker would go a long way, so I was paying special attention to the 15" options. Which options below look in the right ballpark? Are there better, more optimal choices? I am looking at these:

1. Samson RS110A/112A/115A - the 10"/12"/15" options - they go for $200-$270

2. Alto TX 310/315 - these are $150-$250

3. Pyle PPHP1244B - 15" PA for just $110 !?

4. Acoustic Audio by Goldwood - $170

In many ways, any of these are overkill in terms of volume but I do not see cheaper/quieter options with large enough speaker to support bass and guitar. Any suggestions?

Thanks!

Good Replacement for MEPCO's Electrolytic Caps 1000uF/300V, (35mm Ø), used in VTL Amps e. g. Compact 100 and Stereo 50)

For replacement of this aged caps most important is to know, which good available brand and model has the lowest value for ESR with a diameter
of 35-36 mm and in a range of 470-2200uF/300-450VDC

The original length on VTL's Compact 100 is 150mm, but this value isn't critical in order the available space.
The exact type naming from MEPCO is follow: "3186BH102T300BRA2" - go to first attachment.
Due to the small diameter and screw terminals at the same time (sometimes without extra PCB as to see on the fourth image, sometimes with extra PCB as to see on last image), the number of available low ESR series is unfortunately limited.
Maybe one of the member knows a perfect suitable version as a replacement.

Thank you very much for an advice

P.S.: On the web I have found this 35/36mm Ø versions:
PEH200XD3470MU2 (RIFA)
ALS70A112DE350 (KEMET formerly BHC/Aerovox)
MAL210216471E3 (Vishay, formerly BC/Philips Components)
LQR2G681MSEC (Nichicon)
ALS30A471DE400 (KEMET formerly BHC/Aerovox)

Attachments

  • vtlstereo502-1 (1).jpg
    vtlstereo502-1 (1).jpg
    291.3 KB · Views: 83
  • post-106620-0-77178000-1438742490.jpg
    post-106620-0-77178000-1438742490.jpg
    38.9 KB · Views: 75
  • b.jpg
    b.jpg
    67.8 KB · Views: 79
  • c.jpg
    c.jpg
    52.3 KB · Views: 91
  • Immagine 2024-06-09 101107.jpg
    Immagine 2024-06-09 101107.jpg
    86.4 KB · Views: 81
  • 1000009235.jpg
    1000009235.jpg
    352.2 KB · Views: 70

AI designed tetrahedral vented enclosure

To design a vented prism speaker cabinet with the given parameters, we need to consider the volume, port dimensions, and the tuning frequency (Fs). Here's the step-by-step process:

## Cabinet Volume

Given:
- Volume = 1.54 liters = 0.0015 cubic meters

## Port Dimensions

Given:
- Port width = 38 mm = 0.038 m

To calculate the port length, we need to use the following formula:

Port Length = (Port Area × 0.0085) / (Fs × Port Width)

Where:
  • Port Area is the cross-sectional area of the port (in square meters)
  • Fs is the tuning frequency (in Hz)
  • Port Width is the width of the port (in meters)

Assuming a square port, the Port Area = (Port Width)^2 = (0.038)^2 = 0.001444 square meters

Substituting the values in the formula:

Port Length = (0.001444 × 0.0085) / (100 × 0.038)
Port Length = 0.032 m = 32 mm

## Cabinet Dimensions

Since the cabinet is a vented prism with equilateral triangular panels, we can calculate the side length of each panel using the volume formula for a triangular prism:

Volume = (1/3) × Base Area × Height

Where:
  • Base Area is the area of the triangular base
  • Height is the height of the prism (perpendicular distance between the bases)

Rearranging the formula, we get:

Height = (3 × Volume) / Base Area

Let's assume the side length of each triangular panel is 'a'.

Base Area = (√3/4) × a^2
Height = a × √(2/3)

Substituting these values in the rearranged volume formula:

a × √(2/3) = (3 × 0.0015) / ((√3/4) × a^2)
a^3 = 0.0054 / (√3/12)
a = 0.18 m = 180 mm

Therefore, the dimensions of each equilateral triangular panel are:

## Side Length: 180 mm

And the port length is:

## Port Length: 32 mm

These dimensions should provide the desired cabinet volume of 1.54 liters and a tuning frequency of 100 Hz with a port width of 38 mm.

Discrepancy in Augspurger paper on Loudspeaker on Damped Pipes?

This is a question really for someone who has thoroughly gone thru this paper. It is a very detailed question. Not something which would invalidate any conclusion. I think it is an error. Strangely enough, Augspurger has published an update for this paper. But in this update he has copied the tables and figures verbatim.

My question is just out of interest, my speaker design does not depend on it, and perhaps no one would care.

The problem is in this table:
1718638438052.png

And this is fig 8a:
1718638488108.png


Augspurger uses a driver with Fs = 50 Hz for this.
According to the table Fs/Fp = 0.5 => Fp=Fs/0.5 = 100 Hz
F3/Fp=1 so F3 should be 100 Hz.
This is also what the table says, and completely in accordance.

But now for Fig 8b he changes the tuning of the pipe, and the resulting response should
be according to this figure:

1718638984668.png


Table: Fs/Fp = 0.33 => Fp = Fs/0.33 => Fp = 150 Hz
F3/Fp = 0.6 => F3 = Fp * 0.6 = 90 Hz

This is completely off.
It would be strange anyway, when the Fp is increased, F3 would decrease.
From the figure, it looks more like F3 = 60 Hz

I have modeled the first case in Hornresp, using Fs and Qts from the table, using
average values for a 4" driver for the unkown values. I know this is very vague but I did not
have any other information.

The outcome of Hornresp was totally comparable, differing only in some magnitudes of
peaks and minima. All frequencies and curve shape were spot on.

Then, when doing the same for Fig 8b from the table, the Hornresp result did not even
resemble anything. Until I changed Fs/Fp to 0.66 instead of Fs/Fp and then the curves
matched almost.

So, is this an error in this paper? Given the counter-intuitive increase of Fp resulting in
a decrease of F3. And in Table 1 of the same paper the author also decreases Fp for a
decrasing Fs.

But then again, this was a published and peer-reviewed article and has been cited for 24 years.

jlinkels

Attachments

  • 1718638476466.png
    1718638476466.png
    5.6 KB · Views: 47
  • 1718638790769.png
    1718638790769.png
    8.6 KB · Views: 43
  • Like
Reactions: wchang

Lowering the Fs of a big tweeter

These are big tweeters that used to be sold at Jaycar way back
Designed by TSG in the USA if that means anything to members
32 ~ 35mm Voice coils [ I'll take the faceplate off and measure later] with a drilled pole and a plastic back cap.
At the moment while they are working the Fs is much higher than than the catalogue says they should be. One sits at 665Hz and the other at 580Hz and it should be much lower around 350/400.
Leading on from the other threads on tweeter modifications is the best way to play with these taking the back cap off and making it larger so it can be stuffed with something like long fibre wool?
EDIT
32mm

Tapped Horn 21" TH1821 - What do you think of this design?

Hey there!

Im thinking about building this enclosure.

What do you think of this design in general when you look at it just roughly?

It seems like it is a transmission-line / tapped Horn combination. Can this work well? I dont find any reviews or pictures online..

I would use it with the 21LW1400 from 18Sound and it should cover 30-70Hz with playing heavy bass-music..

With all the best,
C.

Attachments

NEUMANN V475-2A I/O connections

Following the pinout diagram from the manual of the card I connected pins 8 & 9 and 22 & 23 with the ground (shield) wire of the cable that connects the balanced Inputs and Outputs with the mixbuss card. Then I read some info about floating ground and I noticed the 0V marking on the diagram for these pins, just like the pins 14-17 which I connected to the 0V DC output from the PSU regulator. Have I done something wrong?

Attachments

  • V475-2A pinout.png
    V475-2A pinout.png
    137.6 KB · Views: 71

The Ampcasq Protechnic

Hello everyone,

I've came across an headphone amplifier, apparently hand made in France, but that's all I know so far...

Does anyone recognise it, please?

There's absolutely no information on the internet, the only reference I could find so far is a post by Chris @AIM65, 'AmpCasq: an OPA 1622 integrated headamp projet' in this section of the forum, is there any connection between the two, please?

Bought it from someone in Paris, he doesn't know anything about it!

Thank you in advance for your time and amiability!

Kind regards, Alain

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20240606_190254_Leboncoin.jpg
    Screenshot_20240606_190254_Leboncoin.jpg
    181.1 KB · Views: 94
  • Screenshot_20240606_185753_Leboncoin.jpg
    Screenshot_20240606_185753_Leboncoin.jpg
    284.7 KB · Views: 96

Great Plains Audio no longer support Altec products

Last week I inquired GPA about reconing and recharging a pair of Altec 515B drivers. They replied that they no longer repair or recharge Altec products.
This is very sad news and a heads up to those who consider purchasing old Altec speakers in need of repair or recharging.
I suspect this decision has been made to increase sales of their own, ridiculously expensive drivers. So now I have to find modern alternatives (no GPA!!) to Altec.

EDIT; After feedback from two forum users who contacted Bill at GPA about this, it turns out GPA will still repair Altec speakers!
I wasn't able to edit the heading of the thread, so thought I would mention it here.
  • Like
Reactions: Russellc

close to the floor vs far from the floor, at all frequencies

Hello.

I know that the distance from the center of the speaker to the floor is an issue especially at low frequencies, but the idea here is to discuss how reflections from the floor affect all frequencies (bass, midrange, treble).

As a matter of theory, let's say a bookshelf type speaker is 80 cm from the acoustic center of the speakers (woofer and tweeter) above the floor, this should give a cancellation of 1/2 of the wavelength at 214 Hz, and if my calculation is right, it takes 2.33 ms from the center to the floor.
Now, if that same speaker is 150 cm from the acoustic center to the floor, that would give a cancellation at 114 Hz and a time of about 4.35 ms from the acoustic center to the floor.

Really, I'm not interested in the theory, but rather the practice of how raising the speaker relative to the floor can alter the accuracy of tones, the soundstage and the response of the speaker, and also, different rooms and speakers can affect this in different ways.

Cause of Sealed Woofer Fs Increase?

I’m working on some sealed woofer cabinets that have been sitting for a few years. Some of the fibreglass stuffing became slightly compressed while stored in a bag. The woofers have been stored mostly upright as they would be in the enclosure.

I reinstalled the wool liner, fibreglass stuffing and the woofer this weekend. Acoustic and impedance measurements revealed unexpected results.

Prior to disassembly, the bass extended to 40Hz and the impedance had a sharp peak at 41Hz, 26 Ohms.

Now the bass is down -6dB or more at 40Hz and extends to just 45Hz, with a rounded peak fundamental impedance resonance at 45Hz, 18 Ohms. I had a sharp dip in the very tip of the impedance peak prior to adding the wool liner to the inside of the cab walls, so damping is playing a part.

I removed the woofer and it’s free air Fs was the same as it was years ago, 26Hz.

If the woofer’s free air Fs is unchanged, can other T&S parameters change somehow? Or, Is this a case of flattened fibreglass stuffing no longer doing it’s job of creating a virtual larger enclosure volume?

F6 Diamond PCBs

Folks:

I have two extra pairs of F6 Diamond pcbs that are now available for your consideration. Black, FR-4, 1.6mm, 1 oz., lead-free HASL, UMS consistent. I propose $25 per pair including domestic First Class shipping. I apologize to those of you outside of the US -- shipping internationally has become far more expensive here, and I suggest you instead have pcbs fabricated (the gerbers are posted in the F6 Revisited thread).

Regards,
Scott

Attachments

  • F6 Diamond PCBs (2 pair).jpg
    F6 Diamond PCBs (2 pair).jpg
    611.8 KB · Views: 163

Introduction

I have been making speakers since the 70's (I'm an old fart of 77). My current speaker systems are a CBT36K for my home theater and a LX521.4 for my personal listening. In my early days I've made many Heathkits also Dynaco Mark III, PAT 5, and a Luxman kit tube integrated amplifier. I now proselytize for active crossovers (I am using miniDSP Flex 8 in both systems). I preach the gospel of Linkwitz and Keele (obvious from my choice of speakers).

LX521.4.jpg


CBT36K.jpg

3 way build and some MDF inspiration with shapes & stains

I have a habit of never making things easy for myself, so I used mdf pieces that I had left over from other projects to avoid buying new ones.
And i had no plan at all except that it would be a very potent 3 way, but built as small as possible with drivers i had home.

The most important thing for me when I build speakers, is to always start from drivers that I really believe in (and have at home) because money is in short supply.

So used in this diy was:
a old 28 mm Scan Speak 9300 for tweeter.
A 6½ inch Scan Speak 18M/4631T00 for midrange
And 15 inch Dayton rss390ho-4 for woffer

Because i had alot of smaller mdf pieces but not many large ones, i had to make separate cabinettes for all drivers.
And the tweeter dosent need "air" behind it, so you can create whatever box you like as small as you like...it just needs to be nice enough to look at.

So i just begain to glue together small pieses of leftover mdf, and it end up looking like this "wooden block-garbage"
After a while it look like this
And end up like this.

to be continued

/John

Attachments

  • IMG_20240506_131805 (3).jpg
    IMG_20240506_131805 (3).jpg
    277.4 KB · Views: 111
  • IMG_20240506_145214 (2).jpg
    IMG_20240506_145214 (2).jpg
    397.5 KB · Views: 98
  • IMG_20240402_150346.jpg
    IMG_20240402_150346.jpg
    208.6 KB · Views: 106
  • IMG_20240402_150329.jpg
    IMG_20240402_150329.jpg
    216.5 KB · Views: 109

Hello, from Denmark

Hello.

Just a little about myself, living in Denmark and quite old 57 years 😱)...

Have sold hifi for about 20 years brands like Pass labs Avalon Krell bricasti audio wadia vienna velodyne, but stopped in 2019 I retired...

Attachments

  • mit1.jpg
    mit1.jpg
    111.3 KB · Views: 49
  • monozeus3.jpg
    monozeus3.jpg
    65.8 KB · Views: 52
  • infamp 047.jpg
    infamp 047.jpg
    128.1 KB · Views: 47
  • 42908917_10215544847149766_1308587362980200448_n.jpg
    42908917_10215544847149766_1308587362980200448_n.jpg
    225.9 KB · Views: 45
  • 423062583_7404287836299694_6933876893636350963_n.jpg
    423062583_7404287836299694_6933876893636350963_n.jpg
    110.3 KB · Views: 42
  • 424974617_10229554443260913_5926867778799733187_n.jpg
    424974617_10229554443260913_5926867778799733187_n.jpg
    238.5 KB · Views: 43
  • 427994363_918469482915742_979145076678495349_n.jpg
    427994363_918469482915742_979145076678495349_n.jpg
    90.8 KB · Views: 46
  • 432353954_385747954325350_1158806467253598725_n.jpg
    432353954_385747954325350_1158806467253598725_n.jpg
    157.7 KB · Views: 51
  • hi_sub2.jpg
    hi_sub2.jpg
    28.2 KB · Views: 59
  • IMG_5684.JPG
    IMG_5684.JPG
    6.5 KB · Views: 50
  • IMG_0721.JPG
    IMG_0721.JPG
    269.1 KB · Views: 48
  • IMG_5388.JPG
    IMG_5388.JPG
    274.2 KB · Views: 49
  • IMG_3437.JPG
    IMG_3437.JPG
    219.8 KB · Views: 45
  • IMG_5396.JPG
    IMG_5396.JPG
    80.9 KB · Views: 46
  • IMG_5397.JPG
    IMG_5397.JPG
    61.8 KB · Views: 44
  • IMG_5399.JPG
    IMG_5399.JPG
    30.3 KB · Views: 45
  • Like
Reactions: stretchneck

For Sale 4 way Crossover designed by Erno Boberly

Borbely Active Crossover from the Speaker Builder Magazine 1 /1994 and Audio Electronics from 4/1998. Both Magazines can be sent by email: This crossover is a 4-way version (Mono) and can be setup for 12db or 18dB/octave designed by Erno Borbely.

Including: 2 Mother Boards – 4 Input Buffers - 12 Filter and 16 Buffer boards. 2 Input Buffers already include the Toshibas 2SK389BL & SJ109BL. Boards assembled with DALE RN55 the frequency related Parts are not assembled.

All Toshiba Fets 2SK170BL & 2SJ74BL Fets can be supplied but will be charged separately they are original Toshiba from the beginning of the Year 2000. According to Erno's Speaker Builder article the Fets can be configured with resistors and need not to be matched.

Complete with manuals in PDF from Audio Amateur and Board Layouts in PDF. The Buffers are DC coupled and in Cascode design.
The two-power supply’s including, both PSU Boards are tested +/- 24VDC.
Four Schroff Aluminum Cases ( see my DAC offer about the Schroff Case ) plus the 4 Toroid’s / 230Vac sec.2 x 24Vac can be delivered.

2 x Mainboard Board = 360mm x 205mm 4 x Input Buffer Board = 65mm x 60mm
16 x Output Buffer Pcb = 65mm x 43mm 6 X High-Pass Filter Pcb= 80mm x 50mm
6 X Low Pass Filter Pcb = 80mm x 50mm 2 x Power Supply Cap Multiplier = 207mm x 200mm

The non populated Boards are included.

The High Quality relays from SDS / NAIS are included. I have a large quantity of WIMA FKC capacitors which I have used in my own crossover, I will share the values in the next few days. The crossover is located in the EU; I would prefer to sell within the EU; but other Countries is possible as well. But with higher shipping costs. Ship with DHL + 5% PayPal fee.

My Price is 650€ for all Boards. The price is negotiable.
More information about the Crossover from Erno Borbely can be find via the link.
Any questions contact me.

Borbely vs. Marchand crossover networks​

https://www.audioasylum.com/cgi/t.mpl?f=general&m=145824

Attachments

  • Erno Xover Speaker Builder (1).jpg
    Erno Xover Speaker Builder (1).jpg
    315.5 KB · Views: 96
  • Erno Xover Speaker Builder (2).jpg
    Erno Xover Speaker Builder (2).jpg
    448.8 KB · Views: 100
  • Erno Xover Speaker Builder (3).jpg
    Erno Xover Speaker Builder (3).jpg
    496.1 KB · Views: 108
  • Erno Xover Speaker Builder (4).jpg
    Erno Xover Speaker Builder (4).jpg
    432.5 KB · Views: 106
  • Erno Xover Speaker Builder (5).jpg
    Erno Xover Speaker Builder (5).jpg
    515.5 KB · Views: 100
  • Erno Xover Speaker Builder (7).jpg
    Erno Xover Speaker Builder (7).jpg
    528.3 KB · Views: 90
  • Erno Xover Speaker Builder (8).jpg
    Erno Xover Speaker Builder (8).jpg
    402.8 KB · Views: 96
  • Erno Xover Speaker Builder (9).jpg
    Erno Xover Speaker Builder (9).jpg
    583.2 KB · Views: 90
  • Erno Xover Speaker Builder (10).jpg
    Erno Xover Speaker Builder (10).jpg
    586.8 KB · Views: 92
  • Erno Xover Speaker Builder (11).jpg
    Erno Xover Speaker Builder (11).jpg
    655.1 KB · Views: 89
  • Erno Xover Speaker Builder (12).jpg
    Erno Xover Speaker Builder (12).jpg
    458.8 KB · Views: 85
  • Erno Xover Speaker Builder (13).jpg
    Erno Xover Speaker Builder (13).jpg
    610 KB · Views: 88
  • Erno Xover Speaker Builder (14).jpg
    Erno Xover Speaker Builder (14).jpg
    437.5 KB · Views: 82
  • Erno Xover Speaker Builder (15).jpg
    Erno Xover Speaker Builder (15).jpg
    427.1 KB · Views: 78
  • Erno Xover Speaker Builder (16).jpg
    Erno Xover Speaker Builder (16).jpg
    282 KB · Views: 62
  • Erno Xover Speaker Builder (17).jpg
    Erno Xover Speaker Builder (17).jpg
    339.4 KB · Views: 62
  • Erno Xover Speaker Builder (18).jpg
    Erno Xover Speaker Builder (18).jpg
    330.2 KB · Views: 67
  • Erno Xover Speaker Builder (19).jpg
    Erno Xover Speaker Builder (19).jpg
    432.1 KB · Views: 75
  • Erno Xover Speaker Builder (20).jpg
    Erno Xover Speaker Builder (20).jpg
    594.4 KB · Views: 99

Bypass Power Supply and Lamp Ballast

Hi Folks!

I have read a lot of posts here that helps me a lot. However, I´ve been trying with little success to bypass both lamp ballast and power supply from projector Optoma DS551, my aim is to use only DMD´s features. The solution, as seen in the figure attached, worked about 60s and the projector turns off and enters in standby mode. I utilized the logic analyzer to observe all signals within the original projector setup and my proposed solution, and no discernible differences were observed. The second file ( 2024-06-14 Session_01 All_Signals.sal) attached is the logic analyzer with the original setup (Saleae format - https://www.saleae.com/). As seen in this file the projector stops working with the PS_ON status. Unfortunately, in my configuration, I have observed that the PS_ON signal sent by the projector powers down the system after 60 seconds, even though the UART communication with the Arduino Uno worked fine throughout. Could anyone assist me with this issue?

Best wishes, Pablo.

ps. I attached the probable system diagram and power supply schematics.

Attachments

  • Scheme_DS551_Arduino_SMPS.png
    Scheme_DS551_Arduino_SMPS.png
    9.7 KB · Views: 103
  • Power_Supply_optoma_benq_es550_ms513_ms500_p9h37-0800-00_p9h47-8104_psu_sch.png
    Power_Supply_optoma_benq_es550_ms513_ms500_p9h37-0800-00_p9h47-8104_psu_sch.png
    209 KB · Views: 93
  • 2011 - Optoma ES(X)550(1) Service Manual_page-0007.jpg
    2011 - Optoma ES(X)550(1) Service Manual_page-0007.jpg
    181.9 KB · Views: 88

  • Locked
Anyone else get fed up listening to the news?

I have to say I have never been a keen news hound but just lately it has been particularly irksome having to endure the interruptions to my favourite music radio channels and radio phone ins for the constant yap yap yap about either politics or bloody football. I am just not the least bit interested in what the rich psychos that run our lives say and even less interest in sports of any kind. And don't get me started on the commercials urging me to spend my last centime on some useless junk I don't need or an electric car I wouldn't be seen dead in. Which reminds me the ads on TV for life insurance and cheap funerals are a bit much. How do they expect us to react showing us retirement age folks with big grins banging on about how happy their bloodsucking offspring will enjoy the payout when they go belly up. I feel a growing loathing for advertising "creatives" that come up with this stuff.


Rant over.

Resistor Distortion Measurement

As ususal I found a forum here and I thought it was parts
but I guess not. It had various results of measuring resistor
distortion. They were 1 ohm, 10 ohm, 100 ohm 1000 ohm?
Also, had power resistors as well.

But I can't find the thread nor forum nor link nor results from
searching for it either.

Anyone know where it is?

Anyone recall where the article is located?

The internet age is great but it is still "age"
and with that maturity comes forgetting where
one finds things.

Cheers,

Now where is that "Enter" button?

I know it is around here somewhere.

Looking for SEAS midrange driver

Hi

Last weekend I noticed issues with two midrange drivers on my Visonik concept 7 speakers.
There are four of them and two of them, both the upper driver of left/right channel makes a scraping noise (sometimes, under specific conditions). I think the voice coil might be deformed.

I think these are SEAS Excel drivers, but I don't find sufficient information on replacements or where to buy them.
Is anyone here able to help me identifiy these?

Greetings!

1.jpg
2.jpg
3.jpg

Can LTSpice simulate the response to impulse in various points of a RLC passive network (like a speaker crossover) ?

Hi ! i have the question in the title
I would like to understand if it is possible to simulate with LTSpice how changes the response to an impulse in various points of a RLC passive network
Like a speaker crossover network for instance
Of course i would love to be able to check this on a scope But at present i am fighting with space
By the way i am working to find a space where to set up a little lab My life's dream 😍
Thank you to Anyone
Have a nice day
gino 🤓 👍

Which 10" woofer for 3-way studio monitor?

This is a project to design & build a high performance 3-way studio monitor with active amp & DSP. F3 target is below 40 Hz, peak volume at that frequency ~105 dB/m. Target crossover is 3~400 Hz. Lower would be nice but not sure if the mid dome can reach down that low.

I have three 10" woofer pairs on hand to consider. Can you help me choose one?

Here are key properties. Fs & Qts were measured; the rest are published.

WooferFsQtsVasdB/WRMS MAXXmaxWeightCAD
Peerless NE265W-826Hz0.3797l85 125W 250W 9.4mm2.24kg$250*
Dayton Audio RSS265HF-826Hz0.5152l84350W 700W 14.3mm7.7kg$268
SB Acoustics SB29NRX75-8 26Hz0.3786l88200W11mm5.4kg$245
*Converted from Parts Express USD price per piece in 100 unit min purchase.

My preferred bass loading is closed box rather than ported, likely due to the increased group delay of the latter. Closed boxes are also simpler to build and Vb less critical. However, many high end studio monitors are ported so it appears my preference is unfounded, perhaps having heard too many poorly designed ported speakers over the years. So I remain cautiously open to both ported & sealed designs.

Vifa/Peerless Tymphany NE265W-8 ticks a lot of boxes: Based on WinISD calculations, a 32 liter box ported to 29.4 Hz provides F3 of 35 Hz. Looking at sensitivity, based on RMS power, this should provide 102 dB@1m max at 35 Hz -- or 105 dB at the peak of 250W (assuming no power compression). A sealed box of the same 32 liters pushes Fs to 57 Hz; this is far worse for bass output, and doesn’t match the ported box till 20 Hz at -15.5 dB. The 32 liter box calculated doesn’t include the port volume or driver displacement, which might be as much as 2-3 liters. This combined with a sealed mid chamber might push external dimensions to 40+ liters. The extremely low weight due to the NE265’s neodymium magnet is a plus, along with the advanced frame design, which appears to have inspired Satori bass/mid drivers. However, one serious caveat is that this driver is virtually unobtanium for DIYers due to the 100pc min order imposed by Tymphany these days; I might not be able to make more than 1 pair, which could be a problem.

Dayton Audio RSS265HF-8 is designated as a subwoofer. A 47l box provides Q=0.707 and F3=38Hz, which seems excellent for a sealed box of this size. Reducing box size to 40l provides Q=0.73 & F3 of 39 Hz. I generally prefer the sound of sealed woofers over ported ones, so the 40l box size is OK, and PEQ with the planned Hypex FA253 plate amp could provide even deeper bass performance or equal bass performance in a smaller box. Using the 250W maximum power output of the Hypex FA253, I calculate max SPL at 39Hz in the 40l sealed box to be ~106 dB@1m. The 14.3mm Xmax (if that means ∓14.3mm) promises good responsiveness to bass EQ, too. The high 7.7kg mass, 3X that of the NE265, is the only real downside -- and the fact that it’s a sub driver suggests FR above 100Hz may not be ideal, though factory specs don’t show anything untoward to 500Hz.

An SB Acoustics SB29NRX75-8 isn’t exactly on my shelf, but four of them are used in my LX521-inspired OB 4-way dipoles. A pair could be pulled for development purposes -- and Solen also delivers these pretty fast. A 53l box with SB3 alignment provides F3 = 32 Hz. Good, but the box is a bit too big. Reducing box size to 40l gives F3= 37.5Hz, slighter lower than the Dayton in the same box. Accepting 200W as the power limit, maximum SPL at 37.5 Hz should be ~108 dB, assisted by the higher 88 dB/2.83V sensitivity. One downside of this woofer is its oversize frame (290mm diameter vs ~265mm for the others), which dictates a wider baffle, likely >310mm, whether or not this is needed for the mid + tweeter.
Projects by fanatics, for fanatics
Get answers and advice for everyone wanting to learn the art of audio.
Join the Community
507,677
Members
7,883,807
Messages

Filter

Forum Statistics

Threads
406,008
Messages
7,883,807
Members
507,677
Latest member
Purwoko