WTB B&C 15CXN88 (pair)
Looking for a pair of these B&C 15CXN88 constant directivity horn coaxial. Preferably in North America.
Cheers
Cheers
For Sale UK TubeLab Simple SE amplifier KT88 6L6GC 6P3S-E
TubeLab Simple SE amplifier KT88 6L6GC 6P3S-E
TubeLab Simple SE amplifier that has been stored for the last six years, I need the space.
Didn't think I would ever sell this, my most successful DIY effort.
While I make no claims of safety/ warranty, Always do your own due diligence.
I checked over the amp and re soldered and cleaned some of the connections, then powered up without issue. I spent a night listening, the amp works without any hum or noises.
See photos for condition and moody long exposure glow.
Edcor XPWR059 wired for 240v, currently $179.
Edcor CXSE25-8-5K Output transformers, Currently $154 each,
Hammond 193H choke
Hammond enclosure, with Fender style Jewel LED and power switch.
80uF Motor run cap.
Thermistor for soft start, Auricaps, Nichicon caps.
Comes with one pair of 6P3S-E output valves
One pair of 6l6gc output valves
One 5U3C rectifier
One JJ ECC81 input valve.
£300
Happy to demonstrate.
Collection from Southeast London SE4, not willing to post due to weight and fragile nature.
Shuguang KT88-98 Matched Pair
Matched pair, never used. In original packaging. With measurement stickers.
£50 including UK postage.
TubeLab Simple SE amplifier that has been stored for the last six years, I need the space.
Didn't think I would ever sell this, my most successful DIY effort.
While I make no claims of safety/ warranty, Always do your own due diligence.
I checked over the amp and re soldered and cleaned some of the connections, then powered up without issue. I spent a night listening, the amp works without any hum or noises.
See photos for condition and moody long exposure glow.
Edcor XPWR059 wired for 240v, currently $179.
Edcor CXSE25-8-5K Output transformers, Currently $154 each,
Hammond 193H choke
Hammond enclosure, with Fender style Jewel LED and power switch.
80uF Motor run cap.
Thermistor for soft start, Auricaps, Nichicon caps.
Comes with one pair of 6P3S-E output valves
One pair of 6l6gc output valves
One 5U3C rectifier
One JJ ECC81 input valve.
£300
Happy to demonstrate.
Collection from Southeast London SE4, not willing to post due to weight and fragile nature.
Shuguang KT88-98 Matched Pair
Matched pair, never used. In original packaging. With measurement stickers.
£50 including UK postage.
Attachments
Rotel RB985 Noise floor problem?
- By A 8
- Solid State
- 27 Replies
I recently got a used RB985 on the cheap and trying to make it perform. I have an issue that I have not come across before and am hoping for some ideas or pointers what might be going on.
The odd thing is that the noise changes with what signal cable I use and with the cable disconnected it's "silent".
Adding a pic of how it looks on REW and a Focusrite G3. Red is the signal cable disconnected and green with it connected to the preamp muted and I have obviously tested with other amps, in this case the Rotel RB 980 and with that there is no difference with the cable disconnected or not.
The odd thing is that the noise changes with what signal cable I use and with the cable disconnected it's "silent".
Adding a pic of how it looks on REW and a Focusrite G3. Red is the signal cable disconnected and green with it connected to the preamp muted and I have obviously tested with other amps, in this case the Rotel RB 980 and with that there is no difference with the cable disconnected or not.
For Sale Geoffw1's Mooly MOSFET Slim SMD boards
- By StevenCrook
- Swap Meet
- 0 Replies
Three pairs of @geoffw1 slimline SMD boards for the @Mooly MOSFET amp.
2oz copper. I have spares because, among a bunch of other orders, I got curious about the charge for 10 boards, changed the QTY then forgot to put it back once my curiosity was satisfied. Imagine my surprise when I opened the JLC PCB box.
No charge for the boards. I'd rather takers made a donation to a hospice charity of their choice. Amount is up to you, whatever you think the boards are worth. I'll cover the postage for UK and EU.
2oz copper. I have spares because, among a bunch of other orders, I got curious about the charge for 10 boards, changed the QTY then forgot to put it back once my curiosity was satisfied. Imagine my surprise when I opened the JLC PCB box.
No charge for the boards. I'd rather takers made a donation to a hospice charity of their choice. Amount is up to you, whatever you think the boards are worth. I'll cover the postage for UK and EU.
For Sale MicroAudio (Cresnet) Cobra S1 SMPS
I am looking to make some room as I likely won't get around to using this awesome power supply with a little one on the way... I suspect my DIY builds will be on hiatus for a little while lol.
This unit has not been used, yet. It was built and tested about a year ago. Asking for $300 shipped (I'll cover shipping within the USA). PM if you live outside the USA and we can figure something out. This unit would otherwise run you $500 with shipping.
This SMPS was spec'd accordingly:
As you can see from the photos, I've included the necessary adapters as well as a cooling fan which you can mount. There's a fan jumper for either fan always on, or fan on with SMPS.
You can use the included adapter board to split the rails for two channels.
If you look around this site, you'll find high praise for Cresnet's SMPS, and especially the Cobra's performance.
If you're not familiar with this product, I advise you take a look at the product page here.
This unit has not been used, yet. It was built and tested about a year ago. Asking for $300 shipped (I'll cover shipping within the USA). PM if you live outside the USA and we can figure something out. This unit would otherwise run you $500 with shipping.
This SMPS was spec'd accordingly:
- Output voltage = +/-32.5VDC @ 4.2A
- AUX Voltage (Regulated): +-18 VDC
- Driver voltage: +12 VDC
- Primary Capacitors: Nichicon 390uF
- Voltage regulators for (+-AUX) : LM78XX
- Voltage regulator for (VDR): LM78XX
- Standby power supply voltage: +12VDC (3W)
- Secondary Capacitors: Mundorf MLGO 33,000 uF (132,000uF total; additional cost)
As you can see from the photos, I've included the necessary adapters as well as a cooling fan which you can mount. There's a fan jumper for either fan always on, or fan on with SMPS.
You can use the included adapter board to split the rails for two channels.
If you look around this site, you'll find high praise for Cresnet's SMPS, and especially the Cobra's performance.
If you're not familiar with this product, I advise you take a look at the product page here.
Input stage and VAS current sources
- Solid State
- 36 Replies
Hi, in the diagram a part of amplifier below you can see circuit current source arrangement that is used for an input stage and the VAS as same use 2 diodes .
My question is : Why they not connect from B on T3 with T4 to reduce using separate R1, R2 , 2 diodes.
My question is : Why they not connect from B on T3 with T4 to reduce using separate R1, R2 , 2 diodes.
Hello
- By bacotran
- Introductions
- 3 Replies
Hi, nice to be here
I have wondom board want to connect to computer
Can everyone help
I have wondom board want to connect to computer
Can everyone help
My class T amp has no sound , should I bin it ?
- By TheFinisher
- Chip Amps
- 9 Replies
As I said in another post I bought this amp as none working and blowing fuses , once I opened it up there was one fuse missing and the led ( power indicator) wires were lose and potentially touching the chassis. I reconnected the led , replaced all the fuses including the one that allegedly kept blowing at the iec power input socket.
Could it be the chip that’s dead ? There is a little green led near the chip that doesn’t light up .
I can hear a relay clicking after a few seconds of powering on but no sound into the speakers ( 000.3mv at the terminals )
Should I just forget it and keep the case etc ?
Could it be the chip that’s dead ? There is a little green led near the chip that doesn’t light up .
I can hear a relay clicking after a few seconds of powering on but no sound into the speakers ( 000.3mv at the terminals )
Should I just forget it and keep the case etc ?
For Sale Hartley 224HS 24" woofer Pair
Pair of Hartley, good condition, 1 of the drivers had a small repair in the cone, can send images if interested $1500 / pair + shipping
Sometimes You Can't Put Off Something That Needs Doing Any Longer
- Everything Else
- 7 Replies
I like to play the two jukeboxes I have in our summerhouse, when I'm working in the garden.
This is the younger of the two.
It dates from 1976. They were produced for hotel foyers and high-end bars, where "Silver Age" machines were considered to be out of place. The graphic is a reproduction of Monet's Sunlight Under the Poplars.
I've had it about fifteen years.
This is the flyer produced to promote this model, seems so incongruous now.
Over time, I've had a problem with the carousel motor, running slow, to the extent it would often activate the trip that protects the mechanical side.
I took it out and gave it a bit of a service a few years ago, but it was recently doing it more frequently. It meant that sometimes if the next selection was a couple of dozen records further away in the carousel than the last played, it would stop. There was a chance it might not "trip" and I'd eventually have a bigger problem.
So I "bit the bullet," and took it out last Thursday. This was no easy task. A question of removing three bolts.
Sounds easy, but it's a nightmare.
It would have been impossible without a set of spinners.
There's no way you could get any sort of regular open-ended or ring spanner on the bolts.
To be able to see anything, the front had to come off. It's just two latches that secures it at the top.
I've added a 60w heater, which gets turned on during the cold months, as these machines, "don't like it cold or damp."
Then the small back panel.
This is all you can see.
It was a question of finding the bolts by "feel" and then getting a spinner on them. You have to do this, by lying full-length on the floor. Not too easy when you're 84.
These motors are exceptionally well-made. They had to be, as most jukeboxes in their time were working all day, every day.
There was a lot of scoring on the armature. This happens if dirt gets between the brushes and the armature.
I'd attempted to reduce this on a previous occasion, but it was difficult, so didn't do it that well.
But this time I used a tip given me by another jukebox enthusiast. I put it in my electric drill and then locked the drill in the vice on my bench. Then wrapped a strip of emery paper lengthways around half a pencil. Just a question of turning on the drill and holding the pencil against the armature. A few changes of paper and the job was done in a few minutes. Then I carefully ran the tip of a Stanley knife blade to scrape out a bit of the insulation between the segments, as these must not be proud of the rest of the armature.
I did connect it up and had it running to check it out before I started to put it back in.
Getting it back into the jukebox is a bigger nightmare, as you're doing it by feel. I put Blu-tac around the bolt and the head of the spinner to stop it falling off. I managed to wedge a Philips head screwdriver through one of the holes in the motor bracket and the jukebox chassis to line it up, So I could screw in the first two bolts.
Sounds easy, but it took me half an hour to get it back in.
Now in perfect working order.
If I'd called out one of the very few jukebox servicing companies, no way would they have wanted it to do it here. They'd want to take it back to their workshop and raise it off the ground to a working height. This would have cost "an arm and a leg."
It cost me 59p for a sheet of emery paper.
This is the younger of the two.
It dates from 1976. They were produced for hotel foyers and high-end bars, where "Silver Age" machines were considered to be out of place. The graphic is a reproduction of Monet's Sunlight Under the Poplars.
I've had it about fifteen years.
This is the flyer produced to promote this model, seems so incongruous now.
Over time, I've had a problem with the carousel motor, running slow, to the extent it would often activate the trip that protects the mechanical side.
I took it out and gave it a bit of a service a few years ago, but it was recently doing it more frequently. It meant that sometimes if the next selection was a couple of dozen records further away in the carousel than the last played, it would stop. There was a chance it might not "trip" and I'd eventually have a bigger problem.
So I "bit the bullet," and took it out last Thursday. This was no easy task. A question of removing three bolts.
Sounds easy, but it's a nightmare.
It would have been impossible without a set of spinners.
There's no way you could get any sort of regular open-ended or ring spanner on the bolts.
To be able to see anything, the front had to come off. It's just two latches that secures it at the top.
I've added a 60w heater, which gets turned on during the cold months, as these machines, "don't like it cold or damp."
Then the small back panel.
This is all you can see.
It was a question of finding the bolts by "feel" and then getting a spinner on them. You have to do this, by lying full-length on the floor. Not too easy when you're 84.
These motors are exceptionally well-made. They had to be, as most jukeboxes in their time were working all day, every day.
There was a lot of scoring on the armature. This happens if dirt gets between the brushes and the armature.
I'd attempted to reduce this on a previous occasion, but it was difficult, so didn't do it that well.
But this time I used a tip given me by another jukebox enthusiast. I put it in my electric drill and then locked the drill in the vice on my bench. Then wrapped a strip of emery paper lengthways around half a pencil. Just a question of turning on the drill and holding the pencil against the armature. A few changes of paper and the job was done in a few minutes. Then I carefully ran the tip of a Stanley knife blade to scrape out a bit of the insulation between the segments, as these must not be proud of the rest of the armature.
I did connect it up and had it running to check it out before I started to put it back in.
Getting it back into the jukebox is a bigger nightmare, as you're doing it by feel. I put Blu-tac around the bolt and the head of the spinner to stop it falling off. I managed to wedge a Philips head screwdriver through one of the holes in the motor bracket and the jukebox chassis to line it up, So I could screw in the first two bolts.
Sounds easy, but it took me half an hour to get it back in.
Now in perfect working order.
If I'd called out one of the very few jukebox servicing companies, no way would they have wanted it to do it here. They'd want to take it back to their workshop and raise it off the ground to a working height. This would have cost "an arm and a leg."
It cost me 59p for a sheet of emery paper.
Another C Audio SR606 fixed
- By twister1264
- Solid State
- 1 Replies
This one is an early version with each both of the protection circuits used for each channel and the three relays for the soft start circuit. Bit of a mess this one (with plenty of other people been in it! 🙁 ) all the output MOSFETs test fine! 32 of them and original...I'm shocked. Someone previously tried to fix this with a driver board from a SR202. They actually wired the drive and feedback wires the wrong way round. So the drive was connected to ground. Cue shorted driver transistors, burnt resistors and vaporized tracks and probably other shorted semis. I had a spare driver card for this from a SR707. Changed to the correct feedback and protection resistors for an SR606 , did the three 27K resistor mod, increased the feedback DC feedback electrolytic cap to 820uf from the 100uf, changed the DC block caps before the gain pots to 220uF bi polar.
powered up on dimbulb, clicked out of protection. DC offset settled at 30-40mV. Bias at 500mV.
Plenty of bass! Sounds very good. Very little square wave tilt at 20Hz. 10Khz square wave has a very slight soft edge. No ringing/oscillations.
Then when I put my hand on the case, DC protect triggers and my RCD even tripped! Took me a little while to work it out. The case sides had a different ground potential to the back. There should be a washer sandwiched between the bolts at the back to keep a good ground for the whole case. The back panel was also not tight. I put in new washers, tightened up the back bolts and no DC trigger. Mains earth wire was also secure to back panel. and mains cable entering amp in good condition.
The three soft start relays are getting weak or need cleaning, When amp is on its side the amplifier fails to start.
The signal grounding is a bit different in these amps I always thought pin 1 of XLR input should be connected to chassis but its connected to screen which goes all the way through the circuit ground. I believe the CMR can be improved too with a change of resistors around the opamp. If i remove the screen cable from XLR pin 1 the DC offset goes up to around 120mV.
Anyway, it plays and sounds good.
powered up on dimbulb, clicked out of protection. DC offset settled at 30-40mV. Bias at 500mV.
Plenty of bass! Sounds very good. Very little square wave tilt at 20Hz. 10Khz square wave has a very slight soft edge. No ringing/oscillations.
Then when I put my hand on the case, DC protect triggers and my RCD even tripped! Took me a little while to work it out. The case sides had a different ground potential to the back. There should be a washer sandwiched between the bolts at the back to keep a good ground for the whole case. The back panel was also not tight. I put in new washers, tightened up the back bolts and no DC trigger. Mains earth wire was also secure to back panel. and mains cable entering amp in good condition.
The three soft start relays are getting weak or need cleaning, When amp is on its side the amplifier fails to start.
The signal grounding is a bit different in these amps I always thought pin 1 of XLR input should be connected to chassis but its connected to screen which goes all the way through the circuit ground. I believe the CMR can be improved too with a change of resistors around the opamp. If i remove the screen cable from XLR pin 1 the DC offset goes up to around 120mV.
Anyway, it plays and sounds good.
Attachments
Is the Sugden A28II MC Preamp section the same as the A28B.
- By 355F1
- Analogue Source
- 0 Replies
Attachments
Phase Linear 400 Series 2: Meter Issue
- By dbxdx5
- Solid State
- 0 Replies
I have a Phase Linear 400 Series II on my bench that has two LED's lit up on the right end of the meter when (and where) they shouldn't be. This is as soon as I power on the amp, no signal.
What I've done so far:
Apologies for the resolution of the schematic.
What I've done so far:
- Checked all electrolytics. One was open (C304).
- Checked all resistors and diodes.
- Exercised the trimmer, R306, applied a few drops of Faderlube, and reset it to match the other board.
- Checked all transistors in circuit, comparing boards.
- Checked everything, including the two UAA170's, with my curve tracer/octopus tester. No evidence of leakage, though the test voltage is lower than what would be seen when the amp is on.
- Replaced the RC4558 (Z301).
- Checked for cracked/cold solder joints.
Apologies for the resolution of the schematic.
Input buffer for LuDEF, SissySIT and similar amplifiers
OCD log – Part II
Part I – DC servo
Existing JFET input buffers in various amplifiers, that use transformer as VAS, are very good. But, more capable buffer brings some benefits as shown here: LuDEF
Deciding should design of new buffer be based on discrete components or integrated circuits (What? ‘Evil’ ICs instead of ‘magical’ JFETs?) I asked myself: what is inside DAC box, that is considered the source of reference sound magic? Right. 🙂
Many DACs contain worse output components than used in this design. For input is used one of the best operational amplifiers in existence, with true JFET inputs. One mandatory checkbox ticked. Transformer driving force is provided by specialized buffer IC that can deliver 170 mA rms with 2000 V/us slew rate and 0.00003 % distortion, at best conditions.
Buffer is supplied by on-board super regulators that provide high PSRR, excellent transient response and low noise from any +-18 to +- 60 V source. It is unimportant how good or bad is amplifier’s power supply. Buffers will always have optimal power supply.
PCB has 4 layers with 80 x 80 mm dimensions. Front and back copper areas are used as heatsinks and one layer is used as Zero Signal Plane, increasing immunity to EMI. Whole PCB is mounted in place using RCA socket. Input socket can be placed in two ways and PCB can be rotated in desired position. I find this format convenient for quick various front end/buffer interchange.
Possible benefits from this buffer are:
Extended frequency response – very low output impedance and high current capability can better drive amplifier output MOSFETs input capacitances. In example, LuDEF frequency response is – 3 dB at 38.500 Hz. With this buffer, it is extended to 87 kHz.
Less distortion – standard JFET buffer contributes with measurable distortion, more at high frequencies. Distortion by this buffer is too low to be reliably measured by hobby equipment. Looking at the following measurement, I’m confident that it achieves datasheet declared performance of 0.00003 %. Buffer frequency response is DC to 2.5 MHz at gain 2.5 X and to 3 – 4 MHz at less gain. You can forget on intermodulation distortion and transient intermodulation distortion with such high bandwidth. RF and EMI incursion is limited with low pass filter at input (R1 – C5).
This distortion measurement was made at Focusrite output voltage that provides lowest self -introduced distortion.
100 kHz square wave response, made without input RC filter, is perfect.
Increased input sensitivity and total amplifier gain – required input voltage for full output power is 3.7 Vrms in case of LuDEF or SissySIT. Buffer gain can be easily changed from 0 dB to 12 dB or from 1 to 4 x enabling to drive amplifier directly from DAC with volume control or from Korg B1 preamplifier which has 1 % distortion at 1 V output, but 6% at 4 V output.
Better channel separation – as every buffer channel has its own PS, left and right channels are perfectly isolated from any influence to sensitive VAS stage by single power supply providing power to both amplifier output boards.
Buffer DC offset at output is less than 100 uV.
How does it sound? Absolutely transparent and detailed with perfect soundstage.
As reference was used (to my ears/brain deeply burned-in sound of) Salas DCG3 preamplifier with dual mono shunt regulators, Toshiba 2SK170 JFETs at input and Muses 72323 volume control, directly driving Cinemag input transformers. Sound provided by directly driving VAS transformer like that is considerably better than with original JFET buffer.
Introducing in between, at amplifier input, new buffer didn’t change that exquisite sound in any perceivable or measurable way! Enough for me.
If anyone is FAB enough to consider building this, I’ll provide gerbers and documentation.
EDIT 30.01.2022. - project documentation added (complete as one zip file and separate items)
EDIT 05.03.2022. - added gerber files with PCB R3 having mounting holes
Mouser shared basket
Part I – DC servo
Existing JFET input buffers in various amplifiers, that use transformer as VAS, are very good. But, more capable buffer brings some benefits as shown here: LuDEF
Deciding should design of new buffer be based on discrete components or integrated circuits (What? ‘Evil’ ICs instead of ‘magical’ JFETs?) I asked myself: what is inside DAC box, that is considered the source of reference sound magic? Right. 🙂
Many DACs contain worse output components than used in this design. For input is used one of the best operational amplifiers in existence, with true JFET inputs. One mandatory checkbox ticked. Transformer driving force is provided by specialized buffer IC that can deliver 170 mA rms with 2000 V/us slew rate and 0.00003 % distortion, at best conditions.
Buffer is supplied by on-board super regulators that provide high PSRR, excellent transient response and low noise from any +-18 to +- 60 V source. It is unimportant how good or bad is amplifier’s power supply. Buffers will always have optimal power supply.
PCB has 4 layers with 80 x 80 mm dimensions. Front and back copper areas are used as heatsinks and one layer is used as Zero Signal Plane, increasing immunity to EMI. Whole PCB is mounted in place using RCA socket. Input socket can be placed in two ways and PCB can be rotated in desired position. I find this format convenient for quick various front end/buffer interchange.
Possible benefits from this buffer are:
Extended frequency response – very low output impedance and high current capability can better drive amplifier output MOSFETs input capacitances. In example, LuDEF frequency response is – 3 dB at 38.500 Hz. With this buffer, it is extended to 87 kHz.
Less distortion – standard JFET buffer contributes with measurable distortion, more at high frequencies. Distortion by this buffer is too low to be reliably measured by hobby equipment. Looking at the following measurement, I’m confident that it achieves datasheet declared performance of 0.00003 %. Buffer frequency response is DC to 2.5 MHz at gain 2.5 X and to 3 – 4 MHz at less gain. You can forget on intermodulation distortion and transient intermodulation distortion with such high bandwidth. RF and EMI incursion is limited with low pass filter at input (R1 – C5).
This distortion measurement was made at Focusrite output voltage that provides lowest self -introduced distortion.
100 kHz square wave response, made without input RC filter, is perfect.
Increased input sensitivity and total amplifier gain – required input voltage for full output power is 3.7 Vrms in case of LuDEF or SissySIT. Buffer gain can be easily changed from 0 dB to 12 dB or from 1 to 4 x enabling to drive amplifier directly from DAC with volume control or from Korg B1 preamplifier which has 1 % distortion at 1 V output, but 6% at 4 V output.
Better channel separation – as every buffer channel has its own PS, left and right channels are perfectly isolated from any influence to sensitive VAS stage by single power supply providing power to both amplifier output boards.
Buffer DC offset at output is less than 100 uV.
How does it sound? Absolutely transparent and detailed with perfect soundstage.
As reference was used (to my ears/brain deeply burned-in sound of) Salas DCG3 preamplifier with dual mono shunt regulators, Toshiba 2SK170 JFETs at input and Muses 72323 volume control, directly driving Cinemag input transformers. Sound provided by directly driving VAS transformer like that is considerably better than with original JFET buffer.
Introducing in between, at amplifier input, new buffer didn’t change that exquisite sound in any perceivable or measurable way! Enough for me.
If anyone is FAB enough to consider building this, I’ll provide gerbers and documentation.
EDIT 30.01.2022. - project documentation added (complete as one zip file and separate items)
EDIT 05.03.2022. - added gerber files with PCB R3 having mounting holes
Mouser shared basket
Attachments
Should complementary differential pair transistors be matched?
- By foxie
- Solid State
- 18 Replies
I am repairing a Class A amplifier with a blown channel. I found out that one of the dual transistors used as a differential pair got shorted. I decided to replace the input stage with KSC1845/KSA992 transistors. I understand that matching the input stage transistors is an absolute must. However, I am not sure what the case is when there is when there is both PNP and NPN side.
Is it necessary that all 4 transistors be matched with one another?
What would happen if the two sides were matched separately?
I attached the circuit, and this is the complementary differential pair in question:
Is it necessary that all 4 transistors be matched with one another?
What would happen if the two sides were matched separately?
I attached the circuit, and this is the complementary differential pair in question:
WTB Tripath TA0105A
- By TheFinisher
- Swap Meet
- 6 Replies
Hi gents ,
I bought a power amp this week ( for very little money) that was blowing a fuse ( apparently) , it’s now stable and not blowing any fuses but I’m not getting any sound which I’m putting down to the chip being faulty ( I could be wrong)
Anyone got a genuine one to sell ?
I bought a power amp this week ( for very little money) that was blowing a fuse ( apparently) , it’s now stable and not blowing any fuses but I’m not getting any sound which I’m putting down to the chip being faulty ( I could be wrong)
Anyone got a genuine one to sell ?
