Hi, got this older flip headunit that isn't fully working that I'm not really sure what the problem is.
Display turns on and lights up, however no text or anything appears, all buttons are unresponsive (besides reset button) and the display does not flip as it should (second image).
Reset button moves the flip mechanism gears very little that you can hear it and see it (only after looking inside) 1-2 seconds after pressing. The display will not move when this happens (besides very slightly that it is easy to miss as if it tries to move).
Tried putting standard 12v to it, and the recommended 14.4v, same result.
When it turns on you can hear it start to read a CD that is inside of the CD slot then stops.
Display turns on and lights up, however no text or anything appears, all buttons are unresponsive (besides reset button) and the display does not flip as it should (second image).
Reset button moves the flip mechanism gears very little that you can hear it and see it (only after looking inside) 1-2 seconds after pressing. The display will not move when this happens (besides very slightly that it is easy to miss as if it tries to move).
Tried putting standard 12v to it, and the recommended 14.4v, same result.
When it turns on you can hear it start to read a CD that is inside of the CD slot then stops.
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Many of the flip head units had a problem with the ribbon cable between the face and the main board. I don't know if these had the same problems.
Have you taken it apart to see if anything is obvious (contaminants or bad fixative)?
Have you taken it apart to see if anything is obvious (contaminants or bad fixative)?
That looks like leaked electrolyte. If you touch the top of the caps (where it's yellow), does it smell like fish/anti-freeze?
Flux rarely has a smell. If that's electrolyte, you should replace all 6 of those large caps and you may need to replace other components near them. The board will have to be cleaned thoroughly and inspected for damage. You won't know much until you get the caps out and examine the board.
I have a pretty strong feeling that is flux then, there is almost no smell, and it board does not seem to be damaged
It cracks like flux normally does when moved and it looks a lot like flux
It cracks like flux normally does when moved and it looks a lot like flux
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Being careful not to short between any pins, do you see any pulse trains on any of the pins of the MCU (IC901)? If possible, use as many test points or connections as possible that are connected to the IC.
If not, confirm that the supply voltages are present.
If not, confirm that the supply voltages are present.
The pins that showed anything showed positive DC voltage around the same, and I think I may have screwed something up as I now smell a hint of that burning electronic smell from the chip but it still shows the same
Did you have 5v and ground on the power supply terminals of the MCU?
Do you have a thermal imager or any canned air?
Do you have a thermal imager or any canned air?
Highlighted pins are which showed positive DC
Blue showed 2 rails, ground and positive DC
I believe I accidentally shorted 2 pins which caused that smell and for the headunit to reset as I shorted it, whoops 😬
After letting it sit for a bit and restarting smell went away and did the same as it had and that's when i checked the pins
Blue showed 2 rails, ground and positive DC
I believe I accidentally shorted 2 pins which caused that smell and for the headunit to reset as I shorted it, whoops 😬
After letting it sit for a bit and restarting smell went away and did the same as it had and that's when i checked the pins
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This is what the blue showed
I don't have a thermal imager but I have canned air
The IC doesn't heat up while idling
I don't remember what I did but something I did managed to get the headunit to cycle through the display flip and back, which tells me that the motor and gears are working, but still does the same as before on
initial powerup and when I hit the reset button
I don't have a thermal imager but I have canned air
The IC doesn't heat up while idling
I don't remember what I did but something I did managed to get the headunit to cycle through the display flip and back, which tells me that the motor and gears are working, but still does the same as before on
initial powerup and when I hit the reset button
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That's sounding more and more like a ribbon. Were there any areas of the ribbon where there was a powdery orange residue?
Is this a removeable face or just a flip-face?
If you adjust the timebase and trigger levels, you may find that that signal is a square wave.
Is this a removeable face or just a flip-face?
If you adjust the timebase and trigger levels, you may find that that signal is a square wave.
Not that I can see, though one half of both orange ones are hidden
Just a flip face but can be taken apart by disassembly, should I try and take it off?
I thought so as well but it wasn’t, it was pretty weird but this is what it shows now, voltage increases when reset button is pressed so I think it has something to do with reset
Just a flip face but can be taken apart by disassembly, should I try and take it off?
I thought so as well but it wasn’t, it was pretty weird but this is what it shows now, voltage increases when reset button is pressed so I think it has something to do with reset
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Do any of the buttons feel strange or do all feel the same and have the same 'action' when you push and release?
Or are all of them fully electronic (no movement)?
Or are all of them fully electronic (no movement)?
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- Aiwa CDC-MP32 Headunit Unresponsive