Strange Frequency response?

Hi! This is my first post on this forum, if this question is in the wrong place I apologize. I've been working on a diy boombox using Dayton Audio RST28F tweeters, and I've noticed the frequency response at the top end looks kind of funny. I know these tweeters are supposed to reach all the way to 20khz, but my measurements show that the -3 db point is around 12 khz? Is this normal? The speaker really sounds fine, I can't hear anything lacking in the treble, but just the measurements show a sharp drop off after 11-12 khz. It could very well be that I'm measuring it wrong, I'm using a umik-1 mic with room eq wizard. I did check and confirm the test is going all the way up to 20 khz though. Here's the graph: EcstasyFrequencyResponseSixth.jpg

Oh and btw, these measurements were taken outside, so room acoustics shouldn't be an issue, even though I don't think it matters anyways at frequencies this high. I'm sorry if this is a stupid question, I'm still very new to a lot of this stuff.

6DJ8 supply voltage

Hello everyone. I am designing a compressor with the 6DJ8, but it's my first time dealing with tubes. Its datasheet shows maximum plate voltage rated at 130V, as shown below.

DmjB9Tt.png


I am designing the amplification stages by biasing the tube from the plate characteristics curves below. At first I was considering the maximum plate voltage of 130V for the bias, as shown in the red curve. The operating point of the tube would be 86V in that case.

A fellow person told me that the maximum plate voltage could be higher than the 130V (as it shows in the "cut-off condition"), and that this value is only there to avoid too much power dissipation, considering the maximum current allowed.

I wanted to know if it is possible to bias the tube say, on the green line, and supply it with ~200V, considering the operating point of ~117V, as shown below. What are the implications of it in a compressor? Is there any danger in going above the 130V?

p4WK5ha.png


Every tiny bit of information and knowledge is really important to me. Thanks in advance, people!

Needed: SONY TA-1120F Schematic or service manual

How is it possible that a model can be made for several years by a huge corporation and nobody seems to have a service manual or schematic for the Sony TA-1120F - this is the third version of the TA1120 that uses FETs in the preamp and has a completely different power amp section.

Even if it sold only in Japan, you would like to believe that at least one person who worked at Sony or in a service outlet might have one usable copy and be a member of an audio related on-line social group.

I have received a unit that has a functional power amp but has a problem in the Line stage that causes one of the main filter cap voltages to raise up about 30vdc from about 50v to about 80v and causes the other filter cap to decrease by about 30v from about 50v to 20v. I have found that when the B+ is disconnected from the line stage (but not the phono stage or tone control boards) that the voltages remain correct and stable. When I apply the B+ to the line stage board, it causes the 30v shifts.

It would be great to find a schematic...

Does anyone have pictures of the back sides of the three preamp boards that they can share that shows where the wiring is attached to the traces?

I have not pulled all of the transistors from the line board (the middle of the three boards) but I have done some in circuit ohm and diode tests and nothing seems wrong. I received this unit following someone elses attempted repair and I am wondering if they have placed a wire on the wrong trace. I really hate having to reverse engineer this unit, but it sure looks like that is where this is headed.

Can anyone help? No need to reply if you have no idea or no experience with this model.

Thank you!

ALEPH 5 Oscilating 600KHz

Hello, I have build my first Aleph 5. Schematic bellow. I have matched IRF9610. Rail voltage +-34V



I have start with just one pair of IRF244 before adding others. When I connect dummy load 8Ohm, everything seems OK. 13v peak to peak before clipping- that is power output I would expect.

When clipping started around 14.5V, it clipping only postive side of sinewave, negative is ok even in much higher output. Somehow assymetric clipping... If I have added more output mosfets, clipping was symetric. With just one pair, always such assymetric - however same behaviour on both channels. Is it something I should deal with?

If I connect 6Ohm speaker instead of dummy load, there is quite big oscillation - 600Khz. Suprisingly, if I lower rail voltage to +-10V, everything going nice. No Oscilation and THD even lower then with +-34V, maximum output voltage cca 14V pk-pk. However, when rail voltage go over +-15, imediatelly there is big 600Khz oscilation.

As it is my first Mosfet amplifier, Im little bit lost how to prevent the oscilation. Im thinking to try increase gate serial resistor from 221 to 1K. Thinking to add some capacitors between Gate and source...however not really sure where to focus first.

Really appreciate any help from more experienced guys here, what should I try. Thank you in advance.

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The classis Push pull vs Single ended question

Hello guys. I dont want to repeat this question once again, but is stands against me.
I have homebuilt fullrange open baffle speakers with 93dB eficiency and I have used these with various single ended triodes like 45, 4P1L which can make only small power, 2 watts maximum.
I want the good SET sound, but with better bass and power in general. You will think that good option is to build bigger Se, for example with 300B or simillar power tube. I dont have this option because I have only small power OPT (from rema radio, 5k, 35mA, but these sounded actually pretty good).
With single ended triode, even this small power I get BEAUTIFUL, really GREAT soundstage and things like vocals, timbre, image are great.
Biggest problem is bass. The amp has these great things but at the same time lacks bass energy.
But I have push pull output transformers which were intended for EL34s in pentode. These can have 3.5-4k on each side of the primary.
I can be fine with 4 watts of power.

I have two most important questions:
1. Can I use these output transformers for, for example EL84s in triode or simillar valves?
2. I know that with pushpull I will have better bass, but what about the other things? Timbre, detail, soundstage, imagination... Wouldnt be these worse than with SE amp? This connects to another question which is what good pushpull circuit to use.
Thank you for your time and suggestions.
Best regards, Michal

Dayton Titanic MKIII 15" Subwoofer

I recently acquired the above mentioned subwoofer in like new condition. I am trying to determine what the best build type would be for this sub. Home theater use with some but very little music use. I will for sure want it to be vented, but I'm not sure on what orientation. Down firing seems to have my attention right now. Any other configurations that I should consider? Any designs or plans anyone has that I could work with for this driver? Thanks!

Switching issues...

I built 12V6 PP monoblock amps with a differential front ends using a 12SN7. The amplifiers use no feedback. I like to have a mute switch on my power amps and, on these amps i also have both single-ended and balanced inputs. So installed a 3-position switch:

Position 1 - balanced input: source connected to the two 12SN7 grids
Position 2 - mute: 12SN7 grids connected to one another no sources attached
Position 3 - SE input: source + connected to 1 12SN7 grid, source earth connected to other 12SN7 grid plus second grid is connected to circuit ground

Initially the Mute position connected both 12SN7 grids to earth but that gave a large thump when used so I reverted to the above configuration.

All worked fine with single-ended inputs and balanced outputs from my Benchmark DAC1 directly into the power amplifiers. I could switch between SE Mute and Balanced with no problems.

Then I built a transformer coupled preamp (Lundahl LL1680 9:1 driven by a 6J5) the output winding of the LL1680 is floating for balanced output (according Lundahl spec sheet) and one end of the winding is grounded for single-ended output.

When using the preamp in balanced output there is a large thumo when switching between mute and balanced output. There is no thump when using single-ended output switching between mute and the S#E input.

I have tried creating an artificial center tap on the winding with two 1k resistors to earth for balanced, but still a large thump when switching.

What gives? As I say when using my DAC's balanced output this does not happen...?

Scan Speak, SB acoustics, Fostex drivers sale 30psc

Hello, I’m selling some drivers . PLEASE note they can be sold ONLY in EU countries where parcels do not cross airport security check) Roughly 30% Woofers and 10% tweeters shipped worldwide was returned as dangeruos materials and shipping costs was not returned. Wire bank transfer or Paypal (add 5%) are acepted.



1) 2psc Scan Speak D3806/820000,NEW never used ,only took out for measurements (box/packing have storage damage) 90eur/psc (MSRP 180EUR/psc)

2) 2psc Scan Speak D2905/990000 tweeters. They have new replacement domes from scan speak fitted, one edge of the flange are cut to make it closer to woofer. I can glue/weld and repaint it. 85eur/psc (MSRP 220EUR/psc) SOLD


3) 10+ psc Variuos Scan speak 18w8545/18w8545K /18w4545 (4ohm) Paper carbon clasic series woofers and MIDRANGES (built for Wilson Audio Watt Puppy 7/8 speakers) 70-90eur/psc (MSRP 140-400EUR/psc)

4) 2psc Scan Speak 12M/4631 COATED cone version (center dome was sligtly pushed) 115eur/each (MSRP 260EUR/psc)


5) 4psc Scan Speak 18W8530K00 COATED cone those were 4 ohms versions(built for Alpine F1 status speaker system) but coils replaces with 8 ohms- GENUE scan speak parts. Very light loctite glue is used for repairs 80eur/each (MSRP 200EUR/each)

6) 2psc Scan Speak R2904/700005 tweeters, have some sratches and marke on flange magnets 120eur/psc (MSRP 300eur/psc) SOLD

7) 2psc SB Acoustics SATORI MW19P-4 used for measurements and less 10 minutes playing test 100eur/psc (MSRP 190EUR/psc)
SOLD
8) 2psc SB Acoustics SATORI TW29DN-B nealy new with boxes ,used for measurements and less 10 minutes playing test 100EUR/psc (MSRP 150EUR/psc) VERY EFICIENT tweeters, perfect match with Fostex 8 inch SOLD

9) 2psc Fostex Fostex FF225WK 8" nearly new with boxes ,used for measurements and less 10 minutes playing test 130eur /psc (MSRP 170EUR/psc) please note – they are NOT fullrange drvers - unless you are 70+ years old and have accelerated presbycusis.

10) 2psc Fostex FF165WK with boxes ,used for measurements and less 10 minutes playing ,one of the drive was modified ( remooved dust cap, and glued back with ultralight glue- frequency respone is same as other driver,measurement swill be included if needed) 80eur/psc (MSRP 110EUR/psc)


11) 2psc [/B]Dayton Audio DS270-8 [/B] 10 inch woofers. [/B]nearly new, with boxes ,used for measurements and less 10 minutes playing [/B] 60eur/each (MSRP 85EUR/psc) SOLD

magnetic momentum

Its the 250VA toroidal transformer building up magnetic momentum. Are you using normal or time delay (slow blow) primary side fuse?

During my long research on transformer/inrush current, I once stumbled across this long info-sheet about exactly the magnetic momentum of transformators. It's in german, unfortunately, but as far as I understood (that's not that far), it is adressing exactly this issue.
If I got it right, it manages the electric/magnetic impulse of a transformer, but not the inrush current into the capacitors...

Maybe some knowledgeable mind can chime in for more details?

david

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Rubber Renew on Butyl Rubber Surrounds??

Has anyone here tried Rubber Renew on butyl rubber cone surrounds?? I was wondering if it really works or not. I noticed my Dynaudio woofer surrounds are beginning to oxidize and harden little bit and replacing all of them will be expensive as I have to get them from Dynaudio USA and Dynaudio USA has to get them from the Dynaudio factory and make their usual cut as well... That brings them to about 400 USD each! I can have foam surrounds installed but I don't really like the idea of foam surrounds because I don't think they will allow the drivers to maintain the original specs. Any thoughts??? The drivers are 24W75's.

Rubber Renue | MG Chemicals


Thanks!

Mark

NAD 2100 in protection, -45V rail too high

I'm starting to pull my hair out on this one... A little background first....

I re-purchased this amp cheap from a friend who blew it up. Most of the output transistors and their drivers on the right channel were toast.

As it sits now, there are absolutely no output transistors in it (center heat sink is completely empty) and there are no drivers in it either. I'm stumped as to why it still won't come out of protection mode. The one thing that is baffling is that I'm getting good voltages everywhere except the -45V rail (low-power side of the power envelope). I get -65.9 volts on 4-ohm switch position or -71.1 volts on 8-ohm switch position. The 10000uf/50v cap (C510) is in danger. That -71 volts travels everywhere and I don't know where it is coming from. I've checked just about every transistor, resistor, diode and cap in this thing and can't find the problem. AC voltages from the transformer to the fuses and the rectifiers are all good.

Anyone who has experience with this amp and could help me, it would be greatly appreciated.

Taramps 12k amp stays on protect mode

Hello i am new here, i have this car amp where it wont come out of protection mode, originally problem was battery terminals were reversed.
I have replaced all transistors on the power supply side and 1 side of output transistors and found burnt traces(same side). That side seems good now. Also the 2 driver ics for what I think is output transistors. When everything is together, I get the red light flashing twice and manual says that means voltage is under 9 volts. I am giving 12 v of course, but 4 rectifiers are getting about 8-9V and the other 4 (outer ones) have 0 volts on all legs. This is my first time repairing an amp so idk if it should be like that for the outer ones, but i heard that somewhere around there, there should be a high dc voltage like maybe 80 volts, created from the transformers, that is nowhere to be found, so i think the "gate driver(s)" is the issue and it is not pulsing the transistors on the psu side? Sorry i dont know much, just appears that no high voltage is coming out from the transormers or transistors. I found these 2 tiny ic chips and think they might be the ones responsible for pulsing but i am not sure. I will attach pictures, i cant find these ic parts online either way. The picture has the ic blurry so here is what they say: "8CA 524A". They are smaller than DS0 package size. Also when i removed rectifiers, amp stays on protect mode steady red light but i dont think thats useful. The ic's i already changed are the "s18244 " ones btw(i think this is for output fets). Any help would be appreciated

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NAD Amp Repair (Newbie)

I have the NAD Amp with the service manual attached. I'm hoping someone can help me diagnose a issue. The amp stopped working a while back. I finally got around to taking a look to see if I can find the issue.

Symptom:
Amp light would turn on, you'd hear two 'clicks' (relays) but nothing worked. No sound output no matter what input was selected.

Sorta cause:
Resistor R46 (In attached capture document) was open. Looks like it got too hot. I ordered a replacement 51O 1Watt resistor and put it in today. Now I have sound, but the resistor is really really hot. Discoloration hot.

More fun:
Looking around I noticed that the resistor seems to have a voltage drop across it of 8Volts. If I did the math right (very likely I didn't) that comes out to about 1.25 Watts (1/4 watt above rating). Obviously, if that math is right, that wouldn't be good.

Looking around even more I noticed that D110 (also marked in attached capture) seems to also be running very hot. It is also rated at 1watt. It seems to also be dropping around 8V (just measuring voltage on one leg then the other and subtracting).

I'm thinking I didn't find the root cause of this issue, that is the blown resistor I found I'm thinking was just a symptom of some other issue. Further I think whatever issue is causing R46 to run hot, it also making D110 run hot. Anyone able to give me some suggestions? I check the other resistors in the area they all measure correctly. I'm an electonics newbie so I'm looking for some help. I'm thinking that whatever is bad must be impacting both devices? But I don't read the schematics well enough to be able to see something that would affect them both like that?

Any ideas?

ps. the amp is working, it discolored R46 and D110 but is working... Could the design just be poor and those components 'normally' run hot?

Thanks for any suggestions guys/gals!



- Craig

p.s.s. Diode D111 is crossed out as it isn't on the board. There is a place on the board for it and it is labled. But it just has a jumper wire across it.

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First watt M2, which speakers?

Hi all,

This topic has already been widely discussed in the forum!
And you will tell me that the configuration of the equipment depends mainly on our personal taste, the room where the equipment will be set up, the style of music .... ect

But I'm about to finish my M2 clone , I need to change my old speakers and personally I'm not sure which type and characteristics of speakers to choose! Sensitivity? efficiency ?

So I this thread would be very helpful for me and probably for others.

DIY I phone repair nightmare!!

What a Nightmare!!!

I was allowed to keep my iphone 5s when I was made redundant from my last job. So it was a few years old and free. But recently the screen started coming away from the sides. A bit of internet re-search reveals it's a sign the battery is on the way out. I've spent a lifetime dismantling and repairing stuff and with videos on how to do stuff freely available I bought a new battery. I got the phone apart pretty easily as the screen was coming away already. A few tiny screws and the new battery was in.

That's where the problem started on one of the videos I watched it showed glue being applied to the screen edges to seal it all back up again. I'd bought glue, it came in an incomplete syringe. No needle, no plunger - it's very thin glue it went everywhere and as if by capillary action sucked itself between the LCD and the glass and stuffed the original screen totally.

So what do you do? A screen is just a few bucks more from ebay. But you have to dismantle and transfer a whole bunch of parts from your old screen. Back to the tiny screws again. They are a nightmare the tiniest bit of pressure on your tweezers and the bloody things fly out only to be found by getting on your hands and knees with a powerful torch looking out for a glint. The magnetic screwdrivers flip the screws around when you get them near a hole so that the threads point outwards at the last minute.

I finally got it all back together and working and the screen cracked at the very last minute as I pushed it home.

For now I'll buy a screen protector to cover the crack and when I'm fed up with the cracked but functional screen I'll let a professional replace it. Or maybe I'll start saving for a new phone now.

Total respect for the midgets they employ to assemble these things for peanuts money.

Modding a guitar amp schematic to run a different output stage

So I have a small output transformer to play with coming from an old battery radio. Effectively a 8K push pull transformer. (there is no existing documentation on the radio so its dead).

I offered my classmate a chance to have one tube guitar amp because when he first heard his guitar trough my hifi tube amplifier fell instantly in love with tube stuff.
(I know I wont be able to replicate it exactly to what my big amp sound like but its just the tubes he wants)

Since I wanted to do something he will be familiar with I have chose then Marshall JCM800 schematic.

Basically use the entire schematic as is except the output stage will be consisting of a push pull cathode biased EL84 output.

My only concern is the lack of voltage for the preamplifier and the not required crazy amounth of drive from the phase inverter driver section.

The estimated voltage wont be much more than 320V which is much less than the 470V for the EL34 stage. I am concerned about the preamplifier how will it affect the gain and other characteristics.

Would it be a big problem if I left the schematic completely stock no value change and just undervolt it and call it a day or I will have to change a few parts arround to make it perform properly?

(I am attaching the schematic with voltage measurements aswell. The amplifier I want to make will have a simple cathode bias EL84 output stage not the EL34s)

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Valve amplifier with diode rectifier.

Valve amplifier with diode rectifier.

Hi at all. I have an amplifier with 5Z3 rectifier tube.

I would like to change to solid state rectifier.

Somebody says that really tube amp would have tube rectifier.

But there is a lot of tube preamp and tube amps with diode rectifier.

Of course sound differents both , but somebody could say that diode rectifier sound bad ?

Thanks a lot.

Santiago

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A step up from the Wooden Designs Redeye is?

Well, I was able so source some 3/8" jute and finished my Aura NS3 driver Redeyes today. I was hoping they would be a step up fron the NS3 Pico Neos and they are. But it is a small step up and only from the Pico Neos that do not use a filter to boost the bass and tame the highs. In short, the Pico Neos, with a .6mH coil and 20 R filter sound clearly better overall to my ears than the Redeyes. This is confirmed by the measured FR which shows the PNs with the filter to be 4db stronger in the 40 to 80 Hz range. The bass may be a bit tighter in the Redeyes, but not enough to make up for the reduced quanity of it.
I will try the Redeyes with the NP filter in the next couple of days, but thought I would post to see what Wooden Design which uses a 3 or 4 inch driver folks here think would be a clear step up from the Redeyes, especially in the bass part of the spectrum. Aside from several TABAQs this is tne first TL speaker I've built and I have yet to experience the MLTL magic that folks describe, but I sure would like to.

Best,
Jay

Help diagnosing Rockford Fosgate 500S early clipping

I'm in the process of repairing a 500S, circa 2002, pcb# PC-3082-D (I have the schematics). The initial problem was a blown output FET on the left channel, sending negative rail voltage to the output terminal. I replaced all 6 FETs on the left channel and reset the bias. That channel works well now, with the output going to within 1-2v of rail before clipping with a 4 ohm load.

While testing the other (right) channel, I found another issue. I either missed this during initial diagnosis, or something got damaged during the repair. The output, with or without a load, clips well before reaching rail voltage. The clipping is equal on both the positive and negative side of the signal. Another symptom is that it appears the overall gain of the right channel is less than that of the left channel (for equal input signals). It's almost as if that channel has no gain, and the signal at the output terminal is merely the input signal fed via the feedback resistor (R244).

Tracing the signal through the design, and comparing the bad (right) channel to the good (left), I find the following differences:

- good signal at the + side of C223 (matches the signal at C111)
- bad signal at the base of Q203
- bad signal at the collector of Q201

I used my multimeter's diode test function to test Q201, Q202, and Q203. All appeared fine. I also tested all of the resistors in that part of the circuit, and again all was fine. All of the output FETs test fine too. The +/-14v supplies are also good on the right channel (as tested at R215 and R219).

My initial thought was that Q201 wasn't turning on properly, so I tried shorting the collector to emitter. That didn't help, and made the output look worse.

Aside from starting to randomly replace components, where else should I look?

Thanks!

  • Locked
The Biology and Immunology Corner

As requested by unpopular demand, a lounge talk dedicated to biology Q&A and discussion.

I unintentionally contributed to the hijacking of the, still very relevant, supply chain thread in regards to SARS-CoV-2. So here is a thread specifically for the discussion of biology, immunology, virology, and general science as it relates to the current outbreak and larger issues.

Feel free to ask questions (I'll do my best to accurately answer), provide your own thoughts, complain about response, or argue against panic and media coverage. It's all good! That said, I do reserve the right to call you out for misinformation or science rejection in as respectful a manner as possible.

Bob Cordell's Amplifier designing for beginners

Hi guys. I'm a newbie and I'm looking for some good literature to get started. I found Bob's book and I was wondering if the first part of his book is enough to get me started with some basic amplifier designing. Is there any other literature or tutorials you can recommend me?
By the way, I have some basic (to intermediate) understanding of electronics components and circuits.

Home LP system

Hello!


Let me introduce my home vinyl system, the heart of which are original transistor phono stage and power amplifier of my own elaboration and assembling. Also Canton Ergo 690 DC acoustic systems and old Soviet LP player Электроника ЭП 017с are used. About a month ago I bought a new source - MoFi electronics STUDIODeck+ and maid some records with it.
You can estimate the sound of the system on YouTube:
YouTube


Of course, You Tube records are not the perfect instrument for sound quality evaluation, nevertheless any your opinions would be interesting.

Making Spice Models for tubes

Hi All,

I needed a spice model for EL86 tube (triode mode). there are several models on the web but all of them use the simulation method based on some kind of formula. I wanted the model which is derived directly from the datasheet. Since I could not find one, I made it. I use LTSpiceIV and the model might be the program specific, but the methodology is very general and can be used for creating spice models for any triode and simulation programs.
I will describe the process of creating the model step by step.


1. The model is shown in the attached file. In nutshell, the triode is modeled as a voltage controlled current source. The output current is evaluated based on Vgk, Vpk and triode plate characteristics. Plate characteristics are loaded in the model as the points and the spice program does the interpolation. None of the tube constants (u, gm or Rp) are used. The model is simple and can be easily modified for other tubes.
Here are the essential elements of the model with comments and explanations:

a) Connections are Plate (P), Grid (G) and Cathode (K).

b) Dummy voltage source E1 is used to generate the voltage equivalent of V(p,k). E1 is used as an input voltage for the current sources (see below).
E1 n001 0 value {V(P,K)}

c) Dummy voltage dependent current sources (G0 - G12) are used to generate currents representing each I(Vgk=constant) plate curve. There are as many current sources as the curves in the tube plate characteristics. In the EL86 datasheet there are 13 curves (Vgk=0, Vgk=-2.5 .... Vgk=-30). The data comes directly from the plate curves. The curves are the plate current I(mA) vs plate to cathode voltage Va(V) at different grid voltages Vgk (V). The input voltage for each GX current source is E1
Here is the example of the current source for vgk=-5V:
G2 n102 0 n001 0 table (0 0
+ 38.652482 0.000709
+ 41.331757 0.001694
+ 44.011032 0.002561
......
+ 168.794326 0.200355 )

d) Current dependent current source GPK is used to generate output plate current. Current source interpolates current based on the lookup table.
GPK P K value={Table (V(g,k),-40,0,-30,I(G12),-27.5,I(G11),-25,I(G10),-22.5,I(G9),-20,I(G8),-17.5,I(G7),-15,I(G6),-12.5,I(G5),-10,I(G4),
+-7.5,I(G3),-5,I(G2),-2.5,I(G1),0,I(G0))}

e) I(Vp, Vgk=0) curve is used for all positive Vgk voltages. This assumption is not true for the real triode. However, it is quite useful for simulation of the receiving type tubes which should be operated with Vgk<0. In the simulation, plate current saturates when Vgk>0 and waveform is intentionally distorted. You can remove or modify this condition easily to alter tube behavior in the positive Vgk region.

f) Cutoff grid voltage is defined somewhat arbitrarily as an interpolation of the Ip(Vpk) points to Ip=0 at maximum Vpk (in this case Vpk=300V). For EL86 this happens approximately at Vgk=-40V.

Now what's left is to fill the model with the data derived from the plate curves.

2. I obtained the electronic image of the plate curves from the datasheet. My digitizer program (see below) takes jpg, tif and png but does not take pdf files as an input. So, there is an extra step of converting pdf to jpg file.

3. I used GetData graph digitizer from here Digitize graphs and plots - GetData Graph Digitizer - graph digitizing software. You can use any other program, but I like GetData for its simplicity. I imported jpg file to the program and semi-manually digitized all curves. It took me about an hour to get everything right. Digitizer outputs the data in several tabulated formats. I used Excel format for data output file.

4. The last step was to open file in Excel and copy-paste the appropriate data columns in my model text file. To edit the model file I used LTSpiceIV text editor, but notepad works as well.

Comments and ideas are welcome 🙂

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Bookshelf Upgrade Conundrums

I have a set of Polk S20 bookshelf speakers that sounded pretty good with my system. Long story short, they were damaged recently and the drivers are trashed. I've looked at OEM replacements but I am put off by the cost ($65 ea for the woofer, $80 ea for the tweeter).

So my line of thinking is replacing them with a set of drivers that very closely matches the Polk specs. Parts Express has a huge selection and I'm thinking a 6.5" and tweeter from Tang Band might be a good fit for the Polk cabinet and crossover.

When I say specs I'm looking mostly at sensitivity, recommended cabinet size, frequency response and crossover point.

What do you guys think? Does anyone have a recommendation for better replacements? Am I wasting my money and should I just buy those Elac reference speakers I've been drooling over for the last 6 months, lol!

Thanks in advance for your feedback and helpful criticism.

6S41S WCF OTL Headphone Amp

I am trying to design an OTL that will drive ANY impedance cans. My main phones are Audeze LCD-2 CB which are 70 ohms. I also have 32 ohm ohm HE-4xx and 300 ohm HD-650s. I have built four HP amps using Aikido topology, which sound fantastic with 300-600 ohm HP, but not enough oomph for low impedance. I do have 600 ohm OPT but the secondary is only 8 ohms (I was saving them for a 6C33C project). The schematic is attached (preliminary), PS schematic to follow.

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WTB: TIP-140 TIP-141 or TIP-142 Transistor in TO-247 Package

Hi folks, once again I need a lone part to complete a repair..

A TIP-140 / 141 or 142 transistor in the TO-247 (larger style) package. If you also happen to have a cosmetically-matching TIP-145 / 146 or 147 that would be dandy. Want to restore the +/-18V regulators on this computer back to factory appearance.

YES! I KNOW THERE ARE MANY COMMERCIAL SOURCES 🙂

Thank you..

Heat sink for 21st Century Maida Regulator

Not exactly tube related but I intend to use this regulator for a tube preamp. When I use the supplied calculator and input 330 v as the desired output (I think the input will be around 350), the spreadsheet says Output voltage adjustment range is 475 high to 375 low. First question, how can that be if I specified 330v output? Second question, heat sink for Q1 say thermal resistance of 5.32. Since I'm a tube guy, not a SS guy, can anyone direct me to an appropriate part number (Mouser or DigiKey)?
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Simulating 18sound 10nmba520 dogbox

The purpose is to simulate different dogbox designs for the 18-sound 10nmba520. This is the driver chosen by Troels Gravesen for The Loudspeaker, The-Loudspeaker

First I use Winisd to figure out a critically damped box size, and its potential maximum sound pressure.

Box size is 11,39 liters. Filter parameters are shown in diagram. System power is 130 W, cone excursion is xmax at 150 Hz.

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Low output from Eden WT800 in Bridge Mode

Hello all.
Okay, I've been lucky with trial, and error troubleshooting, and eventually repairing circuits. Don't want to waste anyone's time here with stuff I should already know. But I just can't figure this one out.
Getting weirdness from WT800 in bridge mode.
First ting I did was replace the open 27K feedback resistor that had failed open.
In bridge mode, I'm getting a larger signal on negative side (inverted right channel) than I'm getting from the positive side (non-inverted left channel).
Both right, and left channels are putting out the correct wattage in stereo mode.
Bridge switch seems fine. The R channel input is being muted by JFETS when in bridge mode. Getting signal from L channel output at 12K/27K junction.
When scoping output negative terminal I'm getting 36V RMS before clipping
Positive terminal is reading 22V rms.
At this point, I can apply more signal and get 36V on Pos teminal as well, but the negative side is clipping.
With the above 36/22V RMS scenario, I'm reading 58V across NEG and Positive with DVM.
Obviously, far below the specified 800 watts for bridged into 8 ohm load.
Using electric stove hotplates paralleled to get a perfect 8 ohms.
Hoping someone can see something obvious here.
I appreciate, and humbly await any response to guide me.
Thanks,
Stan

http://schems.com/bmampscom/eden/Eden WT500, WT600, WT800 - Schematic.pdf

hammond power transformers fluctuating

Hi, I have two hammond 373bx power transformers. I've used hammond transformers a lot and they always work great. But now these two, both!, i wired them up to my variac, blue and white on the variac and brown and black wrapped together and .... nothing. Both won't do anything. No high voltage, no 6.3 and no 5 volt. If I bump the voltage to about 100 volts on the variac, the high voltage starts to swing between 0 and 50 volts. I don't get it. Thist is not my first time. What the heck am I missing? :/

Here is the wiring diagram:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

HDMI related hum

Dear All,

I have an issue that leaves me puzzled. I have a totally DIY system, amps, pre, etc. The system is completely silent. One of the source is my Home theater amp for the front channel. When I attach the amp, the system is still completely silent.
I have a very strong hum when I attach the TV to the amp via HDMI. Note that the TV is NOT the source of audio, but it is used only as a monitor. Both TV and Home Theater amp (Denon 3808) do not have grounding.
An even more nastly noise I get if I connect the Macbook as a source via HDMI. in this case I can hear the hard drive moving.

Any solutions ? I could not find any HDMI galvanic isolator in the market.

Thanks for help.

D.

Audio Amplifier Module grounding help

Hi I am relatively new to electronics so please take it easy on me.

I am building a DIY Bluetooth Speaker, everything works fine when I use my breadboard amplifier that I build using LM386. But I need a stereo output to decided to use the PAM8043 Amplifier IC. To save time I directly purchased the PAM8043 Amplifier Module from the link.

As you can see in the image (from the link) the module is powered by +5V and ground and the audio input L,R and Ground. Should I connect the audio ground with the power supply ground? My logical brain says it should not be done, but when I don't do it I get a humming noise and when I connect both grounds it the PAM8043 is getting hot. So what could be the problem here?

Crossover build

I am working on my first crossover network from scratch, probably a 2nd order 2-way. My questions are twofold:

1) Is there any difference in performance if I build them with point to point on a perf board vs using a stock foil board with the large pads/grounds?

2) Most of the stock foil boards are only for the basic 4 components plus maybe a fuse. What do you guys do for L pad resistors, Zobel, BSC etc? Is everything on the same board or is there a second board?

Thanks,

George

Interesting new whizzer speaker if you're into single drivers

There's a company that makes one of the leading guitar amp\simulators out there, called Kemper. They just released a custom 12" whizzer driver called the Kone that is meant to use their proprietary DSP in the amp to coax near full range response from the driver. I have one for use with their system, and using the DSP and external audio with it set in full range, was frankly shocked at how good it sounded with high quality audio. Far better extension and less tubby mids than a stock Eminence 12LTA.


The driver design is described as having a modified whizzer that allows higher frequency response, but it appears the overall response of the driver is not usable without their DSP correction. It would be interesting to throw a RTA on one of these and see how it does full range. Also it is only available in 4 ohms.


The site shows the Kab (a standard 12" cab with a Kone installed), but you can purchase the Kone driver on its own. It's made by Celestion in China, and is very high quality with a beautiful look.


KEMPER Kabinet & KEMPER Kone | Kemper Amps

Cec Amp71

Hello,

I have just read some piece of information I found interesting. It is taken from http://www.rcm.com.pl/cec/cec_main.htm , and it concerns CEC's new integrated amp, AMP71. The original text is in Polish, here is my (poor 🙁) translation. I may have messed it a bit, I believe HPotter would do a better job. Anyway, here it is:

AMP71 works in Class-A, giving 200wpc max, without generating huge amount of heat. Enough to say, that heatsink temperature of a working amplifiers does not exceed 40 deg. C. What's more interesting, all A class amps, with power exceeding humble 30wpc, have large cases with enormous power supplies. AMP71 has traditional ps with 160000uF caps and two highest 🙂)) quality toroid transformers (650W each). Using two toroid is caused by fully symmetric design, including speaker terminals, not connected to the ground. Basic idea is very simple from theoretical point of view, yet its implementation is not that simple. To make long story short, signal is amplified by single bi-polar transistor, working in pure class A. It amplifies signal from input, which basically means that AMP71 does not contain pre-amp section, and the whole amplification is done by single gain stage without feedback. (...) The most interesting part is how to gain 200W in class A using only one gain stage. As we were said by designer, Mr. Carlos Candeias, gain is set between 40 and 50, and with given 100mV input sensitivity results in 5V max on the output. So where is that 200W coming from? The gain transistor is supported by current source made of 8 transistors per channel, that can easily generate 200W while working in A class (its very high impedance does not influences the signal). Roughly speaking, the power transistor works as switch controlling the
current transistors. The whole process is controlled by detecting output signal and informing the current source about changes, that are apropriately amplified. (...)

Does it sound familiar? Any comments, guys?

Regards,

Marcin.

How to build a Gain module for Subwoofer Amp without hum problem (TDA8950)

hi members ...

i need to build a gain module to compensate for the input sensitivity of my TDA8950 (dont know why it has low input sensitivity). But now the problem is after the low pass filter the signal will pass into an inverting op-amp section which has gain of around 8db and this has given me Hum problem when the subwoofer volume potentiometer is turned more than 60%.

Low pass filter is 2nd order LR and there is an inverting summing opamp stage that combine the Left and Right channels and this stage has unity(1) gain ... only the final stage operates with gain while inverting back the signal phase

thanks

MA CHBW70 sims - vent air speed

I got a couple pairs of drivers from Scott recently, including a pair of CHBW70.
I put the data into WinISD to the best my knowledge allows. I got the red warning about dodgy parameters.

The model seems to work. The curve looks as one would expect soi believe the parameters are ok. Surprising LF extension in small enclosures the only 'alarm' that rang for me. But hopefully this is correct as Scott did mention they would go down into the 50s.

The biggest issue I see is the vent air speed. Even with a 1w signal, the curve just shoots up off the graph intimidating huge air speeds. Maybe this is a function of the parameter input being bad?

Best regards
Jim

Small 12-19V 15-25W power supply (similar at Neurochrome smps-86)?

Looking for a 12-19V DC output power supply, rated 15-25watts, for powering a low powered ITX motherboard.

Neurochrome SMPS-86, fitted with Meanwell 12V power modules seems attractive.

Any other better options for me, with similar dimentions.

I'm trying to do an internal power supply as opposed to an external linear power supply in a small enclosure.

Thanks

FCAM123 line source for compact outdoor 12V application

Hi! I'm thinking of experimenting a bit with line sources for outside use.I read from martinsson that the FCAM123 sounds good outdoors and it looks like a quick build so I already ordered 12 faital Pro 3FE25-16s. Only 12 because my plan is to divide the line array into two smaller, 6-units long arrays that one can attach together to form again the 12 unit array. This way, one can make a mono stack for electronic music (my plan is to use a THAM12 as subwoofer) or have stereo set-up for other applications or locations.

I have been reading about how line arrays behaviour can be improved by means of delays, shading and progressive crossover settings. I'm considering using an NL4 conenctor for each half so I can apply different settings to the lower 4 and the 2 upper faitals with the aid of a minidsp 2x4. This way, when both are attached I'd have 4 zones with 4-2-2-4 speakers each.

Do you have any experiences with such set-ups? Any stuff I should take into consideration?

Thanks!

Hafler 1977-80s Paint

I'm restoring some David Hafler amplifiers and found a paint match , I think.
The DH paint looks like from 1972-3 GM auto paints. A very dark metalic olive. The Duplicolor 'DE 1651 Cast Coat Iron' shown in pic is very close. We'll see how well it matches the front panels/knobs. Its a high temp ceramic paint.

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DSC1- V2.6

I have this DSC1 V2.6 for sale, it is new, with tantalum resistors and transformers LL1684. For personal reasons, I won't have time to finish it.
It cost me 542 euros with transport.
I can break away from it with 300 euro + transport + 4% paypal.
Thank you.

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Anyone Know what LED this is Krell S1200

I was working on Krell S1200 output section and inadvertedly damaged the LED diode on the board. They are diagnostic diodes for use internally at Krell I think. I replaced it with a slightly different one from a car stereo . The original has 1.6v drop and car stereo one has 1.75. I had replaced bank of transistors due to hissing caused by high DC offset going into the output signal cap but still getting .15v dc offset which is the difference of the diodes (was previously getting well over a volt before replacing transistors).. With alot of modern diodes being sold for light output for lighting it seems like it may be tricky getting the right one. Tried contacting Krell but got corona virus message and they are not there according to message. Anyone know what these might be?

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Plans for L Cao F6

What enclosures would people recommend for the L Cao F6? I see a few other people have used them in Karlsonators, what other options are there please? I believe the FHXL would be "OK", but not great, any other ideas please? I've not found any enclosure plans specifically for this driver. Specs are here:

L.Cao LAOCAO F6 6? 12W Full Range High Sensitive Speaker W/ Paper Cone

Building a cheap 250W dummy load

Hey dudes.

I was planning on making a cheapo dummy load like following:

Two 3.9 ohm 50W wire wound resistors in series, installed on a large heat sink taken from a scrapped 100W mono amplifier.

This would make a nice 8 ohm 100 W dummy load, I think.

I'm planning to make two sets, and connect them in parallel, for a 200W 4 ohm dummy load.

But here's the kicker... I need 250 W. So I was thinking of submerging the bottom halves of the heatsinks in water. No risk of shorts or anything like that.

What do you think? Could it work?

Two Jeff Rowland 12's from one SPS ??

Long story short, I have semi-inherited a Jeff Rowland Model 12 amp.

BACKGROUND IF YOU CARE :

This "one" Model 12 unit is actually four separate boxes: two switch mode power supplies and two amps. The power supplies are connected to the amps by weapons-grade umbilicals.

One power supply is dead dead dead, and has been dead for years. Many, many attempts to have it repaired have failed, and heck I've been trying since last November just to get someone to return my calls. Forget Jeff Rowland or any "authorized repair centeers", I think they're hiding behind the door when you try to reach them.

Rowland does not publish schematics, or offer any assistance whatsoever.

What I've eventually learned is nobody messes with these JR switch mode power supplies, even Rowland in the past has "rebuilt" them as linears, so you sent your dead smps in for repairs, he charged a fortune and you got a linear back in that same chassis.

THE REAL QUESTION :

Can I drive both amps from the surviving SMPS?

I haven't delved into JR's SMPS design too deeply (not as if you really can), but it seems plausible.

I'm in a standard size family room (12x18 maybe) type space with pretty efficient speakers (>95dB) and just don't crank Led Zep like I used to.

This would require spending a good bit of time sourcing the connectors and building a proper split umbilical. Mocking one up properly looks like it would take almost as long as shipping the connectors, so might as well just do it right the first time.

RELATED THOUGHTS :

Dead JR equipment, since it can't be fixed, has an approximate market value of $zero, give or take shipping. The boxes are cool CNC machined aluminum, kind of like Lego the way they go together to make different JR equipment. But these are the stubbiest of the JR boxes, so you cant jam much in there if you're repurposing them.

I would hate to immediately fry the good SMPS, because we've been using it to troubleshoot the dead SMPS.

On the other hand, I'm functionally dead in the water unless I really get into mono.

The other down-the-road thought is, ditch the dead SMPS and build a nice linear PS into that box and use IT to drive both amps. I'd already have the umbilical!

But seriously .... thoughts on the original idea of driving both amp modules from the one SMPS?

Thank you.

Inverting Transformers Tubelab SSE

I am planning on my first tube amp build, I have decided on a Tubelab SSE and the chassis design I am working on has the power and audio transformers inverted (upside down). They would be separated from the tubes/other electrics by sheet metal.

I know tube amps, especially SE are very picky about the transformer location/orientation. Can anyone tell me the implications of inverting the transformers?

When is a 200W Power Resistor the Size of a 100W Power Resistor?

A decade ago, I bought some 200W power resistors. Aluminum extruded, 165mm long, rather heavy, to build a dummy load with.

This month, I bought four more of what appeared in the listing to be the same thing (even their chart showing different wattages and sizes showed the 200W being 165mm long). What I received however was only 100mm long. According to the chart, these are 100W units. But they are marked exactly with the same part numbers as my 10 year old resistors.

Either the laws of physics have changed in 10 years (doubtful), or somebody made an error in labeling.

The seller investigated and this morning informed me that this is correct. I don't believe them. The parts I received don't even match specs with their own resistor chart.

I'm reluctant to build the dummy load with these resistors, but if I try to buy them again, I'll probably get the same thing all over again.

So what do ya'll think? Labeling error, or improved physical materials?

Peerless HDS Tweeter too harsh, (Nomex 164)

Ok...I have posted this issue in a couple places...here's what I have figured out so far. My ears are sensitive...my Old ACI's Sapphire III's (Audio Concept Inc) were DVC and when one VC wasn't working because of a bad resistor, I could here it. (The difference in the volume.) I'm sure probably most here, could too!

My build is the Troels Nomex 164's I increased the R1051 from 1.1 ohm to 3.3 ohm. Still at loud levels it hurts my ears after a time. (CD's not so much.) Also, I listen from my Ipod regularly...so I know that is a consideration.

I am running 2 (or 3 depending on what I play) Adcom 2535 amps, with a B&K Ref 30 Pre-pro) with 200 watts going to my stereo pair!

I really want to build the Elsinores...but until a couple days ago thought these HDS tweeters were too "bright". Now I am sure it has to be the xover.


I used Audyn Plus caps, so I am going to try the Silver Janztens on the tweeter section. (The price difference is $8 each I think, compared to the Supremes)


Also I had issues with the solder strips Troels recommended, but I tested the ohm load on my speaks and they are right at 4.5 ohm so I don't think thats the problem!

I really like the way these HDS tweeters sound...so any help would be appreciated!


PLEASE READ THIS.....I have never listen to and enjoyed music at low to moderate levels like these speaker produce! (I have an 18 month old so I have no choice..😉 ) In any case I cannot believe how good these sound at low and moderate, or even mid high volumes. It's just when I really crank up the 200 watts that they start to fatigue. The ACI's didn't have this issue!

Therefore I am convinced it's the Cap...keep in mind the harshness is subtle!


Thanks in advance for any input...and thanks for these forums...freaking AWESOME!!!!!

Electric wiring Thorens 165, multi-meter use during reparation.

Accidentally I damaged a Thorens 165 record player. During repair of that part of the tone-arm I accidentally cut the wiring, so I had to rewire.

Also I wanted to swap the positon of the RCA-outlet of the backside so the channels would be in the same position of the amp. Now I had to desolder those RCA-plugs and resolder after swapping them from left to right, the red plug on the leftside (right audio channel), the black on the rightside (left audio channel, plug outlet on the rightside, as on my amp).
Now I am not a pro and I am learning to solder now but I want to controll the work before I can go further.
I don't want to do a lot to find out later that I made a mistake earlier on.

So I soldered these RCA-plugs after swapping their position in the wooden holes at the back. And now I want to be sure that this connection works with a Mulit-meter. One RCA plug ( I think the red one) gave a reading of 20 or more volts, the other hardly...again I am a rookie at this stuff, I want to learn. So is it normal or do I have to resolder the other plug? If I am doin' it wrong...please tell me cause this is all new for me.

I just want to be able to do this repair because of restoring a good recordplayer but also to be able to do this myself properly. So how do I use the multi-meter to check if my repair worked out? And what would be a proper volt-reading of RCA-connection from the wire-chassis to the RCA outlets on the back?

(The RCA-outlets are by the way not original, originally Thorens had a RCA-wire (grey) that went from the
bottom-plate to the amplifiere. The RCA-plugs here are a modification of later times '80ies/'90ies or later)
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