Bass guitar & amp build

Many years ago I bought a BYOB (Build Your Own Buitar) from Hobby Lobby and got it together a few years ago. As a non-musician I have since decided that maybe I could eventually learn to play a frew notes on a bass guitar so I bought a Harley David ... Bentley P-bass kit from the German shop Thomann.
Whilst making work on the body (I will borrow a jig saw for the headstock - my design), I have started looking for a amp/speaker combo. Luckily, with workers replacing the old roofs, and throwing away plywood offcuts, I have enough material for a box to hold that one. It's not furniture grade, but still 15mm pretty acceptable plywood (often referred to as "plyfa" in Swedish). (All dimension in normal units (centigrade).

The guitar is the Harley Benton P-bass as it looks nicer and I just found a heavy coaxial speaker from Master Audio (Italy), an CSX08, an 8", 4.5kg piece with what looks like a small horn tweeter. Stated freqency range 63Hz - 20kHz (could be lower) and recommended crossover frequency of 1.7kHz. 6dB/12dB crossover.
I had an idea to go for a speaker box of approx 400 x 500 x 250mm (16" x 20" x 10") or slightly smaller, using a sort of Onken design or maybe just a single slit, but nothing decided yet.

When it comes to an amp, there's an "issue". I am not going to play at Stockwood ... errr ... Woodstock, but at home and, if I learn more that one note at local events in our old folks club and I think 50W amperage will be enuff.
I've gotten a pair of simple 50W transistor amps built from cheap Chian kits and I guess one of these would be perfect. Else a similar kit from EliExpress is considered: THIS ONE.
For testing I have gotten a D-class chipamp, which had been nice as it doesn't requires a lot of space heatsinks and whatnot. A simple SMPS will do fine (it it works).

I love to fiddle with things and make things a bit diffrunt. I've got 50 shades of pink .. 2 actually for the bass and I will try to mix them in some "odd way". Also gotten a green pickguard that will match the pink body perfectly :yikes::yikes::yikes::yikes:.
The speaker/amp combo will be covered in vinyl (black-ish) and apart from thinking of power amplifier, I must look up a decent preamp.

This is my plan and I am open for suggestions ... open for REASONABLE suggestions :yes:, remember that this is a mid- to lowfi project. For fun. Low cost.

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For Sale RAAL 70-20XR-AM Ribbon Tweeter pair, with boxes and Crowe Horns

I used these for 20-30 hours mounted in some homemade MDF standalone boxes which I will include with purchase. They’ve never been mounted in a full-size cabinet. In addition, I’m including a pair of 3D printed Joseph Crowe biradial horns that were specifically designed for 70-20XR. I never got around to mounting the horns, so some drilling/finishing may be required if you choose to use the them.

More info on the horns here: https://josephcrowe.com/blogs/news/horn-no-1155-for-raal-70-20xr-pure-ribbon-tweeter

$875 USD via PayPal ff, plus whatever actual shipping cost is. Ships from Columbus, IN.

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SynTripP: 2-way 2-part Virtual Single Point Source Horn

SynTripP© Syn·Trip·P (sĭn'trip-ē) n. The occasional tendency of two or more mental diseases to coalesce into one resembling or inducing the hallucinatory effect produced by taking a psychedelic compound.

The SynTripP© 2W2PVSPSH (2-Way 2-Part Virtual Single Point Source Horn) cabinet uses two B&C 10CL51 10" for low frequencies (LF) in an offset bandpass bass reflex arrangement with a Celestion CDX14-3050 three inch diaphragm 1.4" exit high frequency (HF) driver at the horn apex. The neodymium drivers and well braced 15/32" cabinet construction result in a very light and stiff (solid) enclosure, just under 34 pounds (15.5 kilos) for the 26.5" wide x 11.25" tall, 15" deep (67.3 x 6.075 x 38.1 centimeters) main cabinet which also incorporates an adjustable tilting stand mount adjustable over a 40 degree range.

The pyramid shaped second section of the horn is detachable, allowing the main cabinet to be much smaller and lighter than if it were included as part of the main enclosure. The secondary horn is 41" wide x 25.5" tall x 7.5" deep (104.1 x 64.8 x 19 centimeters), weighing about 5 pounds (2 kilos). The horns nest like Dixie cups, attached by a ratchet strap and bridle assembly to the main enclosure in about the time it takes to tie a pair of shoes. Dispersion is 86 degrees horizontal x 36 vertical, with pattern control down to 310 Hz (-6 dB 42.5 degrees off axis) horizontal and 460 Hz vertical.

Any person wishing to duplicate my Welter Systems designs for their own use is welcome to, any person or corporate entity that would like to produce them for sale please contact me to arrange a licensing deal to avoid violation of intellectual property rights as defined in section 27 of the Universal Declaration of Human Rights adopted as international law in 1976.

A pair of the main cabinets and secondary horns will easily fit in the back seat of most compact cars.
The cabinet can be used without the second section in venues where size is an issue, without the second horn section pattern control is lost below 430 Hz horizontal and 1100 Hz vertical.

The SynTripP© design started as some rough pencil sketches years ago, then more recently progressed with modeling in the free Hornresp simulation program. Another DIY forum member, "xrk971" also modeled an approximation of the design using Akabak. Simulations are quite helpful, but there were several design details that could only be determined by building, testing, and then rebuilding and retesting until the desired goals were achieved. One (of many) details specific to the offset bandpass bass reflex arrangement is how much effect the port size and location has on the HF response. Tests show that although the ports do affect HF response, the influence is rather minimal for the size ports ultimately chosen, while the benefits of having the LF and HF sharing the same horn make for remarkably good polar response. Each design iteration required extensive testing and crossover refinement, requiring drivers to be removed and reinstalled multiple times.

Sensitivity is defined as the sound pressure level (SPL) output at a voltage equivalent to one watt at one meter in a loudspeaker's nominal impedance rating, the SynTripP© is 4 ohms LF, 8 ohms HF. The sensitivity of 99 dB at 100 Hz (half space, 92 dB free space) is quite good for a cabinet of this small size, high SPL with "flea power" amplification is possible. Since sensitivity varies with proximity to boundaries (walls, floors, ceilings) and frequency, the raw response under varying measurement conditions and the equivalent SPL at "0 dB" is given below. The SynTripP© has an F3 of 82 Hz, so it typically would be used with one or more sub woofers.

No currently available commercially built cabinet incorporates all the features of the SynTripP©.

The SynTripP© design is rather challenging to build, and incorporates features that may be of little interest to those with only a casual interest in DIY, but achieves accurate reproduction of sound heard in very few designs, regardless of cost or size. Elimination of some of the features more specific for it's intended primary application, live sound reinforcement, would simplify construction significantly without compromising sound quality for typical home use.

I won't bore you with extensive subjective flowery elaboration of the SynTripP's excellent sound characteristics, instead will provide actual measurements that substantiate it achieves the 10 design criteria listed below. After completing testing yesterday, listened to music at distances from about 6.5 feet (2 meters) up to 750 feet (229 meters) away, the cabinet elevated on a crank tower 4 meters high. Even at 750 feet the music could be heard clean and clear over the noise of Highway 14 traffic and a large backhoe digging in the Mineshaft Tavern's parking lot. The path of my bike ride while listening can be seen in the satellite photo below, the SynTripP© loudspeaker is near the telephone pole between the buildings in the lower center of the photo, the Mineshaft Tavern is the building in the upper right. The speaker was pointed approximately in the direction of the middle Highway 14 marker, it sounded great everywhere along 14 other than behind the large buildings to the East of the Tavern blocking the sound. Standing beneath the SynTripP©, discreet echoes from the various buildings could be heard, varying from about 600 ms to over a second in return time. To be able to hear those echoes when standing within two meters from the horn exit is a testament to the extraordinary directional control the SynTripP© exhibits.

Long and Boring History Time:
Just recently passed the anniversary marking 40 years of my adult life as a professional in the sound and lighting production industry, designing and building speaker systems, mixing audio for recording and in live settings for audiences ranging from 100 to over 100,000 people. During the course of my STS (Southern Thunder Sound) touring career I had the privilege of working with thousands of the best musical performers in the world, and directly learning from hundreds of the most experienced and knowledgeable sound (and lighting) engineers. As well as learning from the best, I find that mediocre and awful engineers and sound systems give important insight into the difference between the good, the bad, and the ugly ;^).

Managing the technical, logistical and personnel details for as many 800 shows a year, fulfilling technical contract riders up to 20 pages long eventually lost it's appeal. After selling STS in 1992 (finally) moved south to New Mexico, built a home recording studio, and have continued providing production on a smaller scale, continuing to build speakers for a wide variety of unique applications, each using design aspects culled from a large palette of sound concepts appropriate for the intended use.

Part of the joy of DIY is the feeling of accomplishment after completing a successful project. The warm feeling can continue long after the project is done. Now that the cost of commercially available loudspeakers of (almost) all types has dropped to the point where their retail cost is less than my cost just for the components needed to build them, I find little joy building something I could purchase for less money. Considering eating sawdust gets old quick, and the shop portion of a project usually turns out to be only a fraction of the time investment needed for design development, if a commercial product is "close enough", I'd prefer to buy it rather than build it, even if it costs considerably more.

Last winter decided to begin winding down from semi-large scale production to semi-retirement and sold my line array system originally built in the year 2000 (with a re-design in 2008). The line array system works great for it's main usage, outdoor events with audiences of up to around 5000 spaced as far as 400 feet away, yet was relatively small, light and could be effectively ground stacked, rather than flown.
I retained a smaller system suited for covering venues of around 1000 capacity. Although the conventional small format horn over woofer(s) speaker designs used in the (relatively) small system are fairly decent, they don't fully meet criteria that I have found crucially important for proper sound reproduction and playback. No speaker system currently commercially available meets all 10 criteria, so rather than wait for it to happen, decided to "DIY".

The SynTripP© design was developed to meet all these 10 criteria:

1) Flat and smooth frequency response to assure "what goes in is what comes out".
2) High output response to below 100 Hz so subwoofers do not need to be co-located with the main speakers, which are generally elevated. At frequencies below 100 Hz sound output (unless from a large array) is near omnidirectional, so the apparent sound image location does not wander between the sub(s) and main speaker location as it would with the higher acoustical crossover point a speaker with less low frequency output would require.
3) Smooth phase response, necessary for good transient response.
4) Wide dynamic range, the capability of reproducing levels equivalent to instruments such as brass and percussion which can peak in the 125-130 dB SPL (sound pressure level) range at one meter.
5) Low harmonic and amplitude modulation distortion at all SPL levels that will be reproduced. Quite a bit of even order HD can be tolerated, as musically it is simply doubling octaves, while odd order HD is much less tolerable, as it can change the composition, introducing notes not in the original. AM distortion, often (mistakenly) called "Doppler distortion" occurs when a driver's excursion exceeds the linear range of operation, which causes a change in level (amplitude) of the higher frequencies at the same rate (modulation) of lower frequencies. The effect is quite pronounced, making voices sound like they are gargling, and the onset is rather rapid after Xmax (the limit of linear excursion) is exceeded. Clean output at high SPL requires larger drivers with greater Xmax than would satisfy reproduction at less than "live" levels.
6) Low thermal compression during demanding musical passages. At high drive levels loudspeaker voice coils heat up, causing their impedance to rise. Amplifiers, being voltage sources, deliver less power at higher impedance, hence louder average signal results in less output than it would before the voice coil heated. As well as the thermal compression issues, large temperature rises result in a number of other driver parameter changes which can result in a drastically changed frequency response, especially when using passive crossovers.
7) Even SPL over a large coverage area. The low humidity here in the high desert causes high frequency air absorption losses (in addition to the usual 6 dB per doubling of distance loss) to be 10 dB or more worse than in humid environments. To make up for those losses requires as much as 10 times more HF power, making points 4, 5, & 6 more difficult to achieve.
8) Constant directivity (even polar response) with a well defined 90 x 40 degree coverage pattern over a wide frequency range, necessary for each listener to hear the same response. Well defined coverage "edges" are needed to keep reproduced sound out of unwanted areas to reduce reverberation and acoustical feedback caused when stage microphones "hear", and re-amplify the main speaker's output.
9) In addition to the above audio criteria, working in smaller venues (sometimes without additional set up help) and advancing arthritis in my left wrist (getting old sucks) require compact size and light weight, which made achieving the above criteria far more challenging.
10) Power is often limited in smaller venues, making high efficiency a necessity to achieve criteria 1-6, and energy efficiency is just plain good for the planet.

Criteria 1-6 are met by a number of commercially existing designs, though most of those choices conflict with 7-10.
#7 can be met using line arrays, but line arrays conflict with 8-10. Line arrays, having the "design feature" of a destructive near field interference pattern, dropping at 3 dB rather than 6 dB per doubling of distance, so can achieve a more even average SPL than a horn, but when elevated and angled down to the desired coverage area a large horn can actually achieve more uniform coverage. In either case, precise angle adjustment is required, hence the inclusion of the adjustable tilting stand mount in the SynTripP design.
Criteria #8 is the toughest to meet, as it requires a virtual single point source to achieve, and the waveguide must be large to provide defined coverage to a relatively low frequency. In theory, multiple horns can combine for seamless coverage, in practice, a single horn covering the desired pattern works better.

Co-axial speakers using a HF horn in the center of the woofer have been meeting most of the above criteria since the introduction of the Altec Lansing Duplex 601 in 1943. In the mid 1970s, Bill Putnam and Ed Long designed a crossover which time aligned an Altec 604, time aligned co-ax became the monitor of choice for many (if not most) large studio control rooms ever since.

A large studio control room is generally much smaller than a concert venue, to meet criteria 1-8 for large venues I developed the "Maltese" horn system in 1992, a pyramid shaped 3-way enclosure using a conical expansion HF horn centered in the mid horn centered in the LF horn. At 67.5" long with a 45x45" mouth, weighing around 350 pounds with a 13x13 degree HF dispersion pattern, around 18 Maltese horns would be required to provide the 90x40 coverage pattern of a single SynTripP©, which obviously would not fulfill #9. The nested horn concept has since been used by CSL, CV, EAW, JBL and probably many others, though none are as narrow dispersion as the Maltese.

During that '92/93 time period the introduction of Christian Heil's L-Acoustics V-DOSC line array using multiple entry HF and offset mid drivers sharing the same horn began to dominate the live sound market. It's fast set up time using less labor and slim form factor allowed more latitude in the placement of the increasingly popular (and progressively larger) video screens, ever more important in selling tickets, as (most) people go to "see" shows. Soon after, most every major speaker company developed their own versions of line arrays, each with enough minor variations of the V-DOSC theme to avoid patent disputes. Decades later, line arrays have "trickled down" and are becoming popular for home use, offering the same low visual impact that has made "column" speakers popular decades before they were commonly referred to as "line arrays".

Already familiar with Tom Danley's Servodrive sub woofers, on a trip to (or from) Florida sometime in that time period I stopped by the Intersonics lab in Illinois for a quick tour of the facilities, getting a chance to actually see his fascinating acoustic levitation device. Before this meeting, I had only seen a patent drawing of the levitator Tom had FAXed me after graciously answering some acoustical questions raised during the development of the Maltese system. I demonstrated to him the directivity, efficiency and "natural" sound of the Maltese HF horn with the tried and true method we old "hornys" still employ, speaking directly through the horn. After a quick description of the Maltese project, I was back on my way.

Sometime later, Tom developed his first line of single point source horns, the Unity (while at Intersonics/Sound Physics Labs) and then the DSL (Danley Sound Labs) Synergy, sharing the classic rectangular two part conical horn form developed by "Don" Keele in the mid 1970s (also used in the Maltese), but without the diffraction throat (and problems associated with it) that Don generally used in his designs as he went from company to company back then. Although the Synergy line has not gathered much traction in the large scale portable live sound sector, and with billions of dollars worth of line arrays deployed, won't for the foreseeable future, Tom's large Biblically named versions are doing well in both sales and performance, and are actually replacing line arrays in fixed installations in many sports stadiums.

Though the SynTripP© shares design features with some of DSL's and other loudspeaker manufacturer's offerings, nothing currently available specifically meets the unique requirements the SynTripP© fulfills. Even though at the rate I'm presently doing production it may take years before the use time will catch up to the design/build time, the achievement of the 10 goals made development of the SynTripP© worth it.

Post #9 lists the tests undertaken between 10/14/14 and 11/5/14, and DSP settings used with the horn extender. Post # 25 has a more detailed horizontal dispersion chart. Post #41 contains plans and a preliminary parts lists, Post #61 has the completed parts lists and assembly instructions, Post #100 has photos of the bass reflex port details.
Post #1226 discusses issues with the bass reflex ports. On 1/26/2014, in retrospect, the 3dB gain the ports provide around Fb are probably not worth the -3dB loss from 350 to 475Hz and -10dB cancellation at 700Hz.

Post #115 has the throat port detail. Posts #128,138, & 568 have injection port and cone filler details. Posts around #729 have alternate HF driver options. Posts 897, 898, & 914 go into details of the throat adapter plate and attachment.

Art

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Low-profile turntable vibration isolators

I have a feedback problem between my old turntable and speakers. I'm not crazy about using multi-pound weights, a box full of sand or an ugly-as-sin inner tube to address the problem so I started experimenting with a different approach. It started with some floor protectors that are designed for things that have casters on their feet -- they have a cylindrical depression in them, so a small ball bearing can easily roll back & forth inside them For my first experiment I actually got some 1/2" silicone balls, on the theory that they could also damp a certain amount of vibration in the vertical plane. The protectors were placed, plastic spheres dropped in, a plywood piece on top, and finally the TT went down.

It worked pretty darned good! I thought things could be further improved because the cylindrical "bowl" permits the spheres to freely move along the axis of the cylinder so the TT had a tendency to drift around. What I really needed was some "pucks" with a spherical bowl shape so they would work on both the X and Y axes. I looked around but didn't find anything the right size, or didn't cost too much -- so I decided to make some.

Here's my first shot at a home-made version:

TT vibe isolator.JPG


I have a small machine shop so it actually wasn't too difficult to make this guy. I first tried printing one on my 3D printer but the vertical steps interfered with the free motion of the sphere. It probably would work with something better than an Ender 3. An SLA printer might be the ticket, but I don't have one.

Interestingly, the oscillation frequency of the sphere is independent of the TT mass, it only depends on the bowl's radius of curvature. And it doesn't take a very large radius of curvature to achieve a very low effective cutoff frequency. I calculate that a bowl with a 4.4cm radius of curvature has an oscillation frequency of just TWO HERTZ!

The one in the photo has a natural oscillation frequency around 3 Hz so I believe the math. I'm grinning a lot over this one.

The fact that the frequency doesn't depend on the TT mass resting on them means that the entire system, consisting of 4 of these pucks, has the SAME cutoff frequency as just one of them. I love physics....when it works in my favor 😆

I had thought that the oscillation frequency would be the same as for a pendulum, but it isn't. The fact that the sphere rotates (due to friction) changes its natural oscillation frequency so the oscillation period is slightly longer, compared to a simple pendulum. The approximate period is given by: T = 2*pi*sqrt((7R)/(5g)), where R is the bowl's radius of curvature and g is the gravitational constant. SI units -- R is in meters, g is 9.81 m/s^2. T is seconds, of course -- 1/sqrt(s^2) = s. I found the formula over on physics.stackexchange.com. It's valid for small-amplitude oscillations, which should be the case here. A simple pendulum's period is given by T = 2*pi*sqrt(R/g) so T isn't THAT different, just a bit longer. Longer is better.....

The shallow bowl means that it wouldn't be too difficult to push the TT off of them, so my final puck design will include a 3D-printed skirt around the outside of each puck so the sphere will fetch up against it and stop.

I bought the spheres from McMaster-Carrr so I could get them quickly, but that ended up costing me $35 for 10 of them. Rubber spheres can be had on ebay or Amazon for less, if you're willing to wait. Grainger might be another source. I got the acetal plastic from Tap Plastics, $5 for 4 of them, 1/2" thick. There also are online metal and plastic suppliers that will cut material to size, although they usually charge a small fee for special cuts. If you go that route, shop around first -- fees can vary quite a bit.

I realize that few of you will own, or have access to, the machine tools I used to make these, but there are other ways to make something similar. For instance, it wouldn't be too difficult to make a mold using a large ball, to cast them out of epoxy resin. The inside surface of a large ~2" ABS plumbing fitting -- an end cap -- has a decent radius. But Its exterior also has a radius, so I don't know how that will work -- if left free to rock, it might behave like a flat piece & that's not what you want. But it MIGHT make be good for creating the bowl, maybe pressing it into epoxy putty. Put mold release on it first.....

How to make a loudspeaker sandwich cone

Hello,

here I want to describe how I do make a sandwich cone with aluminium foil.

This can be done with normal household aluminium foil and normal glue you can buy everywhere as "universal glue".

You need a scissor and the materials like aluminium foil, glue and the loudspeaker.

The foil can be applied easily to paper cones / diaphragms.

You can use thin aluminium foil from the gold smith and the glue they sell (in german "Anlegemilch") for making sandwich cones with polypropylene loudspeaker cones as here normal glue will not work. Also for delicate whizzer cones the thin aluminium foil from the goldsmith will be a better choice.

More information on this concerning loudspeaker history and theory in this thread and my post:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...cone-speaker-cone-profile.402470/post-7432593

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For Sale Clearance of spot inventory, transistors, vFET, TOKIN THF-51N THF51N TO-79 gold-capped tubes, old used Passed the test

Update the latest spot, you can circle the VGS you want, and friends who want more quantity can negotiate the price.
1: Only 1 piece of old 2SK180 USD: 50
2: Only 1 piece of old 2SK181 USD: 50
3: Old THF-51N THF51N THF51N and THF-51S functions the same. Friends in need, please see the picture below. It is cheap For sale, tested, please browse if there are data records, and there is an exact match. 1 piece USD: 50 China Post USD: 12-20



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Yet another MEH Synergy project

Time to fess up, I've been reading and learning about the Danley originals and inspired clones for a good while now.
So much info and help here and online.
Very inspiring.

I decided to make one, to start with.

Lots of measuring what's online, drawing and scaling and plenty of thinking.

I took the plunge and decided to make a prototype.

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As this is for a domestic room test, I decided to to go with one 12" woofer and two 5" MIDs + HF compression driver.

Flares on and rounding / smoothing started.

Primed to help see the imperfections.
I spend a lot of time ensuring a smooth throat transition from perfect 1" to 4 sided conical.
I've always found this to be critical on my other horn creations -
12 sided conicals, tractrix and Le Cléac'h diy horns.

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Drivers from the top down:

HF; BMS 4550 - need to introduce this one🙂
MF; 2 X Celestion 5" sealed back.
Not the Misco ones I would have liked!
I did message Misco but didn't hear back.. yet.
LF; single Eminence Kappa 12A
These have served me very well in my mid bass 100Hz to 400Hz hyperbolic horns. No need to buy more either.

This was a trial fitting

IMG_20240228_114740.jpg



I decided the conical to flares needed more smoothing..

IMG_20240229_120146.jpg


Happier with that.

Having used cheap as chips chipboard, I decided to sheet them with some leftover sound deadening sheeting.
Result, pretty dead!
These won't be going very loud, so should be good.

IMG_20240229_150744.jpg


Making the rear enclosure for the bass reflex part took time.

Overall quite compact and easy to carry the pieces up to my music loft room.
When compared to all the hardware of the other horns.

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3 round horns and 1 tweeter replaced by 1 synergy!

I then did a quick dial in, very easy to do in Najda DSP.
Set up the X/Os, quick time / phase alignment to the tapped horn.
Dialed in the SPLs.
Notch PEQ on the BMS 4550 at 2200Hz

I will spend much time dialling in, trying different X/O slopes. Aiming for nice phase plot.

Quick setup plot from the listening position.

Snergy - Tapped.PNG


(Ignore the 25Hz bump, that's the tapped horn - it's the way I like it, gives huge scale and energy to church organ and electronica etc 🙂).
The trail off of HF really isn't noticeable from the chair! There's relatively speaking plenty of HF action, for me!

So, how did it compare?

Very interesting!

Listening in mono, one side to the other, the sound coverage of the room is amazing.
You get the pretty much the same sound no matter where you are!
Not so the old 5 way side! It's the listening chair, or nowhere!

I had to boost the mid bass SPL to get better balance and more drive, to my taste. The Crown amp and Kappa 12A are up to the job.

It's not a bad sound at all!
I could tell by how easy it was to dial in and how flat the individual drivers frequency responses were, that it would be promising from the off.

Funny how you can tell something will sound okay from hearing the frequency sweeps - when you've heard enough I guess🙂

Surprising balanced and detailed overall impression.
Mid bass is good, not slow or bloated, fast and nice timbre.

I guess the mid drivers are not run in?
They sound pretty good though. Not in your face, or too passive.
The HF driver, do compression drivers run in?

It actually competes with the 5 way side very well.

I would like to build a SM60F style next..
Even more hifi room friendly!
Just got to figure out an elegant way to channel HF / MF from the coaxial driver.

I will now spend time dialling and positioning, whist I plot/ plan the SM60 alike.

Questions: should the woofer sealed rear chamber volume be the same if you only use one driver?

What X/O slopes would sound best?
I started with 8th order LF high pass (matches the tapped horn),
4th order all else?

2 ways desktop speakers (easy and powerful)

Hi everyone,
This project turned out to be quick, straightforward, and with a great outcome—so I figured it was worth sharing.

These desktop speakers deliver a clean, confident sound. They handle plenty of power, are solidly built, and easy to put together. The goal was to upgrade the speakers I use with my PC (driven by a TPA3116 amp) for listening to music, voice, and video—so clarity was key. That said, with a bit of EQ, they’re also more than capable of livening up a party.

I went with Faital drivers, partly because they’re readily available here in Buenos Aires, but also because they come with reliable and comprehensive specs.

I kept the crossover design simple—a first-order Butterworth filter set at 1kHz—and it did the trick. Of course, you can always tweak the resistor values if you want to shape the top end a bit more.

_DSF0653.JPG
_DSF0657.JPG

For Sale (from Switzerland): Sony VFET N-Channel built + fully functional

The Gem is sold.
I have too many things, and am willing to let go my Sony VFet amp I was able to get from the lottery...
I strictly followed the build guide, and nothing was added or upgraded.

I'm asking CHF 700.– plus shipping which would be from switzerland, so europeans have a little advantage, and fellow swiss folks may even pick it up...

Fotos may follow as soon as I'm in my atelier again...

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For Sale SIT amplifier

Hello,

So I had this Adcom 5802 from which I got the enclosure, the transformer, the big caps in the ps filter(which were recently replaced and measure 4miliohm and 22000u) and the small power supply that controls the big toroid.

So I decided to use the enclosure to build a nice 20w/8r and 27w/4r.
The amp uses the Stasis Fe as a front end, accepts rca and xlr inputs and has a voltage gain of 10x.
The output stage is similar to the one in Sit 5 and uses same working principle.

Here how the pcbs look. There is the main pcb with the output stage and a slave pcb with the front end.
IMG_0701.jpeg


The amp looks like this
From outside(good shape cosmetically, can send more photos using direct messaging)
IMG_1034.jpeg


And here the inside
IMG_1036.jpeg


A few more photos with the amp
IMG_1256.jpeg

IMG_1259.jpeg

IMG_1262.jpeg

IMG_1267.jpeg
IMG_1268.jpeg


You will notice that I used the small 12v power supply to control the big toroid from the front switch.
I installed some temperature sensors connected directly to each sit capsule to monitor the temp meanwhile testing. If needed I can leave these in place else they can be removed though it won’t change a thing soundwise.
The sensors will help if you use the amp with improper cooling because once the capsule reaches 75C they will turn off the main trafo.

Here are a few thd graphs
1w/4r
1w 4r.jpg


1w/8r
1w 8r.jpg


27w/4r
27w 4r.jpg


20w/8r
20w 8r.jpg


The power supply is dual mono, each channel is powered from its own winding from the trafo.
Initially the Adcom trafo gave too much output voltage which I had to lower a bit so I took the trafo at a trafo winding factory near my town so they rewinded completely the secondaries. When I got the transformer back it made a bit of noise so I have to return it back for a 2nd attempt. Now the noise got lower but there still is some. I will askthem to make another attempt.
I didn`t get a new trafo because I wanted to be able to use the amp at 120/240v like it iniatially was designed and still can be used.
In the meantime that the trafo was at the factory I used smps power supplies with great success and practically no noise and very low cost(320w meanwell)

Because I want to go ahead with my projects I need to pull some funds from somewhere and this amp will save me this time. So don`t have other funds to put a new trafo inside.

I was thinking at the following..
I was planning to ask 1300e for the amp it the trafo would have worked as expected.
A trafo for this amp is around 250e at Toroidiy so what about 1000e for the amp as it is?
I will send it with the actual trafo.
The amp weights a bit more than 25kg. I can ship it in the UK and some countries in the EU(Austria, Italy, Germany, Belgium and probably others) at 1.2 pounds/euros. For the UK no custom taxes will be implied. So in these cases the shipping will be quite cheap.

If you have a pair of field coil drivers that that you want to trade I am all eyes and ears 🙂

As for the sound.. what I can tell is that it`s explosive! I built a few sit amps but none sounded so powerful like this one.


Edit:
Somebody asked how h2 looks so here we go
10w/8r
IMG_1048.jpeg


10w/4r
IMG_1047.jpeg

LND150 Gain Stage hum

Hey all, I have this nice Magnavox 138BB tube amp that I use as a Guitar amp (stock) and driven with a Joyo American Sound pedal/preamp. Works ok, but not very loud...so I added a LND150 Gain stage in front of it. Now plenty loud but has quite a bit of hum...sounds like 60hz... I like this setup....pushes the 6V6 nicely.

The 220 ohm source resistor leaves me with around 125vdc at drain (1/2 B+), so I think the LND150 is biased correctly....but would like to reduce the hum... any advice? Thought of reducing the R2 from 1M to 470k....

I am "stealing" B+ from the two high side of the 470k anode resistors in maggie amp.

Without the LND150 circuit, no hum at all...

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SSLV1.1 builds & fairy tales

Here's a building thread for the SSLV1.1 BiB PCB reg. Its to discuss builds, ask questions, tell stories.😀
The absolutely must read before build PDF instructions link for download is: BIBguideRev2. Good luck!:trapper:

That guide is also attached in a somewhat lower resolution compressed file below.

''Lazybutt'' Fred's Excel calc attachment to help you set values has been added on 1/14/12

And a useful wiring configuration tip is: When and how to connect the reg in two wire mode

:nod: Successor new design (2018): Salas SSLV1.3 UltraBiB shunt regulator :nod:

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Sony DVP-S7700 Analog audio board upgrade with Burson V7 Opamps

I have been using a Sony DVP-S7700 as a transport connected to my Music Hall 25.2 Dac which has some slight mods, including Burson V7 Vivid opamps and a Gold Lion 12AU7 tube. Burson has been kind enough to provide me with samples for a new project to mod my DVP-S7700 and install DIP 8 sockets and replace the OPA2134 factory opamps.

Phase one has been completed, removing the soldered OPA2134 and replacing them with DIP 8 sockets.

IMG_1104.jpegIMG_1108.jpegIMG_1112.jpegIMG_1113.jpeg

Phase two is waiting on some DIP extensions from Burson, it's too tight to install the V7 opamps due to the location of some capacitors. This will hopefully make it easier to swap without having to remove the analog audio board every time.

Please follow along for future comparisons between the analog audio board with the Burson opamps compared to the external Music Hall 25.2 Dac using the Sony as a transport connected through CoAx. I will also be comparing the older V6 Classic, to the V7 and OEM OPA2134.

Ampzilla Original Version

I have an Ampzilla (original kit version) that I am thinking of letting go. I rebuilt other Ampzilla amps (originals) this past winter and have this one remaining. I could sell it as-is, or as a kit form with a nice parts package (all new caps, resistors, drivers and outputs). If you have an interest, please message me and we can work something out.

Please understand, this is heavy and you would have to pay for shipping. I box items very well for shipping and have sold CRT oscilloscope to members here and on eBay. Be prepared to pay for the shipping from zip 17403.

Xtant X604 burning resistors

I am back again with the same amplifier, my lovely Xtant X604.
Last time I was able to recover the functionality with your help (water leak). Now I discovered that my front left tweeter is not working and making strange sound (I am bi-amping the front end). So I popped the cover off, inspected for water leaks - didn't find any but found 2 burned resistors. One is R111, the other one has no reference designator but since it sits between R108 and R110 it is likely R109. Also did a search before making this post and found the schematic for X603 posted by Perry Barin. Wonder if Perry or someone else has the same schematic without additional markings written over it. Perry was wonderful helping me fix the amp last time I had a short due to water leak that formed crater in pcb (2021). Will try to dig into this tomorrow.
20230327_224736.jpg

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For Sale IanCanada Audiophile master mode digi re-clock streamer

Hello,

For sale is IanCanada's Audiophile master mode digi re-clock streamer using TransportPi Digi II and IsolatorPi III

https://iancanada.ca/products/20b-transportpi-digi-audiophile-grade-master-mode-digi-transport-95-00

I bought TransportPi Digi II and Isolator Pi III couple weeks back but had to change plans (can provide dated receipt for proof of purchase).

Items for sale: $190 + Shipping
1. TransportPi Digi II
2. IsolatorPi III

Please send me a message if you are interested.

Regards,
Subbu

I've killed my Sony TA-F770ES by starting a recap (yes, I know) and I would dearly love some help

Hi everyone,

To put it bluntly, my lovely Sony TA-F770ES amp was working perfectly fine until I, after much deliberation and research, decided to re-cap it on account of its age.

It now doesn't work, I regret absolutely everything, and I would like some help if at all possible!


I started off with just the Main (A) board - the smaller preamp/driver board, and the phono stage board. They're the smaller boards stacked up on the right.

After doing both, no issues, I put them back in to test it before moving on.

It powered up, the lights lit up, the power light went green, then a couple of seconds later it went into protection.

"Bugger", I said. OK, maybe I mis-connected something or something is shorting that shouldn't be. I took it all back apart and meticulously checked and reassembled everything.

Same issue.

A while ago I bought an 870ES donor amp which was not working and in a poor cosmetic state - I wanted to harvest it for the unobtanium parts such as ICs/switches/pots.

So I swapped in the donor amp's amp and EQ boards (they are identical apart from a couple of slightly more highly-specced values here and there to account for the extra power of the amp).

Same issue.


Now, my memory is hazy of exactly how long I spent fiddling and checking all my connections and making sure nothing was visually wrong, but somewhere along the line, the front panel and volume LEDs stopped working.

I learned from this thread https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/sony-ta-f770es-tone-control-oscillating.351940/ and somewhere else that the volume knob LED and all the other LEDs are in series and for some reason are crucial to the front panel circuit working properly.

So I double-checked everything, all the connections, all the ground points, I even swapped in the donor (again, identical) front panel control logic board but again the same issue.

I really want to try and troubleshoot this but I'm not entirely sure where to go from here. It seems like it might be something to do with the front panel LEDs/connections but I'm not adept enough at reading circuit diagrams to fully comprehend it.

It can't be completely dead because:

1. The LEDs on the Main (A) board light up - one green one orange
2. The heatsink gets warm so the main transistors are doing their thing
3. Despite the LEDs not working, the buttons on the front still operate the motorised rotary input switch
4. The remote control still works and operates the volume

But there's no attempt to trigger the protection circuit anymore.


Thanks so much in advance for any insight.

Fosgate PR-2100 help

So I have been playing with some "old school amps" or so I thought. A older friend of mine tells me of a Fosgate amp he has stored and ends up bringing it to me. Holly crud! I don't know old school since it sure is not around the late 80-90 range, it's the mid to late 70's!

Anyway, I took covers off and took pics and measured power and ground leads and seem plausible. The speaker outputs all measure about 42ohm and that waved a flag to me. Sounds way too low. I studied up on how to power the amp up using a current draw on the red lead and it is cycling on/off about 2 cycles second. This is just like my friend told me it was doing when he tried it on a power supply years ago. He said it would play but only would stay going if kinda loud and would cycle if played at low volume, from what I recall from speaking to him. I was in shock after all. I did not hook up to a speaker or take any voltage measurements on the speaker leads yet as I am a little nervous with this rare amp. I thought it best to just go straight for some advise.

I tried powering with both a car battery and power supply combined and same result as just my 30amp power supply.

The F6 Revisited

A little over a month ago I mentioned wanting to start a new PCB for the F6 that included some common and not-as-common tweaks that have found there way into the diyAudio community. This idea received positive comments and launched two new PCB designs.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/zenductor.402522/post-7469793

Mikerodrig27 created the PCB artwork for two new variants, one with the standard JFet input stage and one with the Diamond buffer. I have had the PCBs for a few weeks already. It took some extra time to rebuild an old test bed to avoid a prominent 120 Hz hum. Plus I was away on vacay for over a week. All better now.
Cutting to the chase – The performance of the new JFet PCBs has exceeded my expectations. Soldering the green LEDs into the PCB has enhanced the function of their negative temperature coefficient (NTC). There is a more pronounced boost to initial bias current while the amp is cool, then the current drops as the amp heats up. The net effect is that the amp is effectively temperature stable after a half hour, and bias current does not drift appreciably after that.

The new PCBs are built around the Jensen JT-123-FLPCH signal transformers, as standard. We could entertain a dual footprint that included the Cinemag CMOQ series, but my listening experience so far has been wonderful with the Jensens. I don't have any info yet on the lower cost signal transformer proposed for the new F6m variant. I think we may leave that for the diyAudio store.
I chose to build the JFet input version first, with IRFP048 Mosfets. This turns out to be a great combination. I can highly recommend the IRFP048 for future builds by DIY enthusiasts. The store carried these for a while, and they are inexpensive and readily available from Mouser and Digikey.

I am making further mods to the power supply of my test bed and will post more on that and the listening tests soon.

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For Sale Several tube power amps for sale

I realized that I have two ears, 4 speakers, and about 16 tube amps. So I want to get rid of some. I have them listed on eBay, but am happy to kill the listing(s) and sell them directly if anybody is interested.

More info on my website pmillett.com or you can see the listings on eBay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1674531214...M6XS4H&hash=item26fcfbdb83:g:xkoAAOSwtTVn~U7X

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1674532051...PK9TB0&hash=item26fcfd228c:g:c40AAOSwzxRn~V7T

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1568922170...BEWVJ2&hash=item2487813ee9:g:bMEAAOSwHN1n~UhC

Pete

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Something to lighten the mood

So I kick off early today like many are doing during this C19 crisis and I thought I'd do a little housework before the Mrs. came home. I started making the bed and I noticed a pillow was missing. I look around and see it on the floor at the end of the bed. Only problem was, it was moving. It seems that little Bingo was playing hide and seek with Daddy and had now trapped himself inside. Lifted him onto the bed, freed my little prisoner and went onto finish my work. It was funny enough that I thought I'd share because I think we can all use a little something to help us smile these days.
Cheers.

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FET's transfer curve analyser aka locky_z to handy numbers

For my needs I created this little PowerShell tool and I wanted to share it. It is made to help picking FETs based on their transfer curves.

1745848676038.png


Instead of just looking at the curves, it can calculate some basic numbers like how linear the device is across the range.

It’s mainly for people who want to select FETs by linearity, transconductance, and want an easier way to spot which FETs behave nicely, meaning more consistent gm and fewer surprises.

What it does:
  • Reads your transfer curve data (like from a Locky_Z tracer)
  • Calculates transconductance (gm) at different points or average within the curve
  • Gives a quick idea of how "linear" the FET really is (from 0 to 1 where 1 is a straight line)
  • Makes it easier to pick better parts without having to guess from the graphs
Feel free to modify it as you want, re-publish whatever. Hope it helps.

PS. How to run it? Unpack it and in Windows just right click and "Run with PowerShell", for security reason please ALWAYS check the script or any other modified for any suspicious code, it is a text based file.

1745849407502.png

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Pass F4 Investigations

I will just do SPICE simulations. Will be no building 🙂

Pass F4 is an intriguing amplifier. Can be called a high current power buffer.
To begin with I will be focusing on the original F4 as can be seen in service manual.
I know there are some modified versions, but they have their own life.
The original version can be seen in my image.
I have stripped off the JFET input stage, because most preamplifiers have no problem with F4 input impedance.

Some facts I have found out:
Gain: 0.97
Input impedance: ~8 kOhm
Distortion THD:
01 W: 0.003%
02 W: 0.004%
04 W: 0.007%
10 W: 0.013%
20 W: 0.028%

Pass F4 23V_01.jpg

Technics SE-A3 bias adjustment

Good morning, I have just finished reassembling my Technics se-a3 and I am wondering about the adjustment of the quiescent current in the doc it indicates to adjust the potentiometer vr104 and vr105 to minimum but it does not indicate the direction and what is the minimum resistance level or the opposite? Sincerely

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3/4 + 3/4 the strange A1

How can 3/4 plus 3/4 make a wholez?

When two quasi single-ended amplifiers rely on a quarter of the partner. Here is my preliminary finale from the unfortunate thread. It should be noted that the input of the "3/4 + 3/4 = quasi 1 amplifier" would like to be driven with a very low impedance.

HBt.

PS
A test setup will follow.

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Rod Elliot ESP P09 active crossover optimal R and C values

Hi all,

I'm working on a 3-way active Linkwitz-Riley crossover (24dB/oct), based on the ESP P09 topology. The setup is for home hi-fi use at moderate listening levels — I rarely play loud, and my focus is on sound quality, transparency, and phase coherence.

My speaker system consists of:

Tweeter: Electro-Voice ST350B

Midrange: Electro-Voice EVM-10M in a sealed 18L chamber

Woofer: JBL 4227 in a 130L bass reflex cabinet

The crossover is built on a KMTech board. I’m using LME49720HA opamps with proper bypassing and layout attention. I also have a large stock of mil-spec 10k resistors with tight tolerance, and a selection of precision film capacitors including rare KS and military polypropylene types.

What I’d like your input on:

1. Suggestions for optimal crossover point placement for these specific drivers, considering phase alignment and natural acoustic blending.

2. Thoughts on using LME49720HA opamps in this type of filter — are there any caveats or fine points I should be aware of?

3. In general, what’s your preferred strategy for selecting component values: fixing R and calculating C, or the reverse? Any experience-based sweet spots in terms of impedance?

4. Any practical tips from your own active crossover builds with similar gear?

Thanks in advance for sharing your experience — much appreciated!

For Sale XA252 PoP R1

I have for sale a few more PoPs, R1 this time with better layout and performance.

These can be tuned to have more or less flavor so it can suit all tastes by changing a few key components in the front end. Depending on your taste you can mention what exactly you want, less flavor meaning less thd.
From the strongest flavored to the light flavored at some power levels the thd is half.
Please see the new thd graphs at the bottom of the post where I compare the same module setup in 2 different ways.

24-06-20 18-29-11 7334.jpg


Since some time I go ahead with the Xa252 PoP being the reference amp in my system.

It can work from +/-16v to +/-24.5v. Bias is preset at 1.4a.

The schematic looks like this
Screenshot_20.jpg



Stable as before when handling square waves
24-06-18 12-18-57 7279.jpg



The new pcb has same drill hole pattern as R0
pop fixing.jpg



And here some thd measurements
1w4r.jpg

1w8r.jpg
10w4r.jpg
10w8r.jpg
20w4r.jpg
20w8r.jpg
40w4r.jpg


All modules are tested and working. If no preference for the thd the modules will ship with the stronger flavor.

Later edit:
I am adding a crc psu pcb together with the modules for the same price.
IMG_9493.jpeg


Price for 2 channels and the crc psu pcb 160€



Later edit:

Someone said he uses a 5U400 enclosure for his builds (which is quite big) and is able to take 1.8A bias at +/-24V. So the user wanted to use the modules at a higher bias(1.8A) than the 1.4A as I set them.
With a higher bias for the output stage you will get more power output in class a(which you have plenty already with 1.4a bias) but also a bit more thd at high output power. So I think this time it`s better to keep it at 1.4A.
The maximum bias that can be set for the PoP modules is 1.6A so I took the measurements here, didn`t bother to modify the tested module to go to 1.8A. It isn`t really needed for the PoP.
bias 1w4r.jpg

bias 1w8r.jpg

bias 10w4r.jpg
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Budget Classic 3-way Discussion Thread

This thread is to discuss ideas for a budget Classic 3-way speaker. (Sometimes referred to un-eloquently as a Monkey Coffin)

Driver choices, technical performance requirements, whether it is okay to finish it in anything other than Walnut veneer, etc. are fair game.

In fact, there are no limits to the topic - which means it is impossible to go off-topic.

Maybe we can surpass the 14K posts that have yet to resolve the question "Is it possible to cover the whole spectrum, high SPL, low distortion with a 2-way?" 😉

  • Poll Poll
Cello Palette Style EQ Design (was High End Tone Control)...

If you where to build a Cello Palette functional clone, what technology do you want?

  • I want a Software Palette, Analogue EQ is SO 20th Century

    Votes: 8 16.7%
  • I want a purely passive EQ to which I want to add my own input buffer and output amplifier (MPPJBTS)

    Votes: 9 18.8%
  • I want a Minimalist discrete EQ using Tubes (ZenEQ derived from the "East German EQ")

    Votes: 15 31.3%
  • I want a Minimalist discrete EQ using Solid State (ZenEQ derived from the "East German EQ")

    Votes: 22 45.8%
  • I want Op-Amp's with parallel and summed bands (e.g. NitePro EQ3D)

    Votes: 5 10.4%
  • I want Baxandall Sections with Op-Amp's connected in series (e.g. Carl_Huff)

    Votes: 3 6.3%

Folks,

At the other thread I noticed interest in what may be called a "functional clone" of the Cello palette. Please review the High End Tone Control thread for background information and the options discussed:

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analog-line-level/194119-high-end-tone-control.html

The Palette is best described as a Stereo Mastering EQ designed for easy and intuitive use by non-engineers (most EQ's need operators with at least two degrees and many years of experience to get suitable results). One way to describe the actions of the six controls of the Palette approximately is:

Bass [20Hz]
Drum [120Hz]
Lower Voice [500Hz]
Presence [2Khz]
Rasp [5KHz]
Air [20KHz]

Control ranges are 'weighted' so that any changes for a given rotation in for example the "presence" band are much smaller than the "bass" band, relating directly to the behaviour of the human hearing. The Palette has possibly more adjustment range than is beneficial and due to a number of factors a true clone is jut not a sensible option nor is it necessary.

Here the original:

2467402627_962b6f0058.jpg


In principle we can realise something that follows most of the Palette design brief using any technology we care to apply, so much is established.

However "Vita brevis, ars longa" dictate that we cannot spend time, effort and money on making a Palette functional clone with each and every available technology and then to let everyone choose which design suits them best.

So for starters we set the following outline for the actual EQ function:

Centre frequencies:

20Hz +/- 12 ... 18dB
120Hz +/- 6 ... 9dB
500Hz +/- 3 ... 5.5dB
2KHz +/- 3 ... 5.5dB
5KHz +/- 6 ... 9dB
20KHz +/- 12 ... 18dB

We can make bands somewhat adjustable using switches if desired.

Adjustment range is open to some debate as well.

Controls should be able to use generally available potentiometers but can be implemented also with rotary switches.

If we limit ourselves to 24-Pole switches (actually 23 Poles usable) this gives us +/- 11 positions for boost/cut.

This suggests 0.4dB steps for the innermost bands (so +/- 4.4dB), 0.8dB steps for the intermediate bands (so +/- 8.8dB) and 1.2dB steps for the extreme bands (so +/- 13.2dB).

If these items are agreeable we can proceed to select the electronic circuitry, here is where the poll comes in. If you are interested in this analogue (re)mastering EQ project, please vote in the poll on the technology to be used. the poll is multi-choice to perhaps vote 1st & 2nd choice...

Ciao T

Open Source Monkey Box

This is a long thread with many twists and dead ends. Before diving in, take a look a this first:
  • The documentation files of the finished Open Source Monkey Coffin loudspeaker. I am (trying to) keep this up to date!
  • The notes at the end of this post, which have some useful hints to navigate the thread.

-----------------------------------------------------------

Following up on the earlier Open Source Speaker thread (part I and part II) I am starting a new thread to discuss the develpment of the "Open Source Monkey Coffin".

Here's an update of my earlier Monkey Coffin ideas. Sorry it's so long.

POINTS OF DEPARTURE (as I see them):
  • The first poll says it should be a three way, and it's okay to cost more than $500 per box.
  • The second poll says that the Monkey Box should be "amplifier friendly" (work well with ACAs or small tube amps, etc.), and it should not be too big (not more than 60-80 L).
  • The speaker should be straight forward to make for DIY novices (we don't want to scare them, we want them to run to the hardware shop and build stuff on their kitchen table). There is no point in designing for expert builders, because they will design their own speakers anyway.

MY IMPLEMENTATION IDEAS (I admit these are partially biased by my own preferences, because I need some motivation to actually put some work into this):
  • The box shoud be easy enough to make on a kitchen table. Dimensions roughly 30 x 65 x 30 cm or so (will depend on the requirements of the drivers and box tuning).
  • For "weak amp compatibility" I set the efficiency target to 92 dB/2.83V/1m, with bass extension to 45 Hz (-3 dB). Achieving this will not be very easy.
  • The impedance curve should be flatish and qualify as "8 Ohm". This means we can't "cheat" with the efficiency target by using low-impedance drivers.
  • Use high-quality drivers/parts with the right tech specs for the task. The look of the drivers has to be "right" for a HiFi system in a home environment, but is second priority after the tech specs (people may not want to build a speaker that does not look "right").
  • Woofer: The woofer will likely be the limiting factor that determines the size/bass-extension/efficiency compromise. I guess a 10" unit would be the right choice here. The earlier threads already mentioned a few units that might be interesting for this design (Fane Sovereign Pro 10-300SC, Ciare FXE 10-2.5, Volt BM251.3, some Beymas, etc.). We'll have to look at this some more.
  • Midrange: Needs to keep up with the SPL requirements, so many of the conventional "HiFi" midranges are out. I have some experience with the ATC SM75-150 dome, which is VERY good, expensive, and not available to DIYers anymore. When ATC stopped selling to the DIY market, Volt released the VM752 dome, which is a very good clone of the ATC driver. I really want to use the Volt VM752 dome. It can be used from its fs (400 Hz) up to about 3 kHz or so.
  • Tweeter: There are many good tweeters out there. I am a big fan of Be dome tweeters (ScanSpeak D3004/6640, SB Acoustics Satori TW29BN). I also read a bit about waveguides, which do good things. They help with matching the dispersion of the tweeter to the midrange, they reduce the effects of baffle diffraction, they increase the on-axis efficiency, and they reduce non-linear distortion of the tweeter (by reducing the drive voltage for a given SPL). At the moment I can't think of a reason why we should not use a waveguide.
  • Cross over filters: the x-over frequencies will depend quite a bit on the driver choices. However, if possible, I like to set the woofer/midrange x-over frequency such that it fits the baffle-step centre frequency. This makes it easier to compensate the baffle step by fiddling with the woofer SPL vs midrange SPL. If the drivers allow, I like using 6 dB/octave filters because it's easier to get the time-domain response of the loudspeaker right. In my experiments, my ears preferred 6 dB filters over 12 dB filters.
  • I will openly admit that costs are not my first priority. If the right parts cost a lot of money and there are no alternatives, so be it. The earlier threads indicated that it's ok if the parts cost is more than $500 per speaker. Some said $1000. My priority is to make this a very good speaker, and suitable parts may cost a bit of money. In the end, there will always be substantial flexibility with costs related to x-over parts and enclosure materials + finishing.

NEXT STEPS AND QUESTIONS (everyone has his/her own approach to loudspeaker design, but here's my suggestion):
  • In the first step we'll have to narrow down the driver choices. This will be a forward-and-backward process between driver suggestions and model runs using these drivers, always keeping the design targets in mind. I'd suggest choosing a woofer first, because that will define the box size, bass extension, and sensitivity. Let's say the midrange is set (yes, you are allowed to complain, but... :mallet:). The tweeter comes last.
    Question: What input data do we need for these model runs? Do we need actual measurements of the drivers in their baffle/box? I am not big with modelling tools, and I tend to replace detailed model runs by measurements from prototypes. Others might be more efficient than this by using their modelling tools.
  • The second step is to build an actual prototype. Now we need money to buy parts. If the design is still attractive to me (i.e., it's something that I'd like to build and use myself), I'd be willing to put in some money and go for it. I could also do measurements.
    Question: How will the funding work? Anyone experienced with raising and managing money for open source projects? Anyone willing to put some cash on the table? Who will manage the money, and how?
  • The third step is to tweak the prototype. Again, this will be another forward-and-backward process. And we may need more money.


---------------------------------------------

Notes and updates:


Important note 31 Oct. 2019: DIYers may profit from this open-source project for their own private purposes, for example by building and enjoying a copy of the Open Source Monkey Coffin speaker. Please do not use the information developed in this open source project on a larger scale (for example by selling speakers based on the Open Source Monkey Coffin design or substantial parts of it) without written permission.

Note 4 Oct. 2018: This project has received financial support from LORDSANSUI, Paul Vancluysen, George Wright, KaffiMann, Charles Bueche, zimmer64, John Barbor, and others (anonymous) here. Thank you!

Note 10 Nov. 2019: This project has come a very long way, and the OSMC design is now completed. The design goals have been largely met, but some of the early implementation ideas have changed a bit along the way (x-over topology, woofer size, tweeter details). The full documentation of the OSMC design is here: https://github.com/mbrennwa/osmcdoc

Note 4 Oct. 2018 and 18 Nov. 2019: Final choice of drivers:
  • Tweeter: ScanSpeak R2904/7000 ring radiator (post 295 and follow ups) with a custom waveguide as described in post 881 (available via group buy or by DIY 3D printing or CNC machining).
  • Midrange: Volt VM752 3" textile dome
  • Woofer: FaitalPRO 12PR320 12" paper cone (see post 162 and post 244).

Note 18 Nov. 2019: Final enclosure is in post 925 (drawings) and post 930 (photos, showing stuffing).

Note 18 Nov. 2019: Final x-over is in post 931.

Note 18 Nov. 2019: The polar response diagrams (horizontal and vertical) are in post 895.

Note 18 Nov. 2019: The power response is in post 901.

Note 18 Nov. 2019: The electrical impedance is in post 900.

Note 19 Feb. 2020: A bunch of graphs with test results as compiled from the documentation on GitHub (on-axis SPL response, step response, polar response, cumulative decay spectrum (CSD) are in post 917.

Note 9 May 2020: If you don't know where to look, here's a list with some shops and retailers for OSMC parts:
  • diyAudio group buy for the OSMC tweeter waveguides
  • Falcon (Europe): Scan 2904 tweeter, Volt VM752 midrange driver, x-over parts, etc.
  • Solen (Canada, US): Scan 2904 tweeter, Volt VM752 midrange driver, x-over parts, etc.
  • Audiohobby (free shipping everywhere!?): Scan 2904 tweeter, x-over parts, bass-reflex ports
  • US Speaker (US): Faital 12PR320 woofer
  • Blue Aran (Europe): Faital 12PR320 woofer
  • Acoustical Surfaces (US): Melamine foam. Contact person: Tom Ewert +1 (952) 466-8229. They also sell in small quantities!
  • Ebay: Melamine foam
  • Buttinette (yes...): lambs wool
  • Deer Creek Audio: Custom speaker stands

Half decent small mixer with MIDI I/O

The results from the thread:
Audient id48 will be used as the main interface.
DAW mastering will mainly be handled using touchscreen.
MIDI is better handled by stand alone solutions, will most likely get something like the CME U6 MIDI Pro which is a USB interface with 3 x I/O, and having a single dedicated multiple I/O MIDI unit can help reduce issues with sync.

Here is the original 1st post:
Hello people,

Looking for a half decent small mixer with at least:
4 Mic/instrument inputs
1 stereo input
USB for using as an audio interface
MIDI I/O for use with synths
Good noise figures
Not too expensive

I do not have a huge amount of experience looking for mixers so I was hoping for some advice, basically I want 1 thing that do all these things instead of having lots of boxes with lots of signal routing in between.
So far it seems the Tascam Model 12 may be my best option, but with my limited knowledge in this particular field there might be some other good contenders that I have no idea about.
Been looking at devices with compareable specs like the Yamaha MG12 XU but it has no MIDI, and the Tascam does look much better even though that is not a requirement of mine it is sort of a bonus to have the aesthetics covered.

Thankful for any advice not involving a cluttered mess of 3 different items to fulfill these criteria.

SA2022 - Modular High End Analog Precision Preamp (with headphone amp, digital controlled relay volume, monitor output, IR remote, SE and bal. I/O)

A long journey developing a high end analog preamplifier is going to come to an end. The parts mostly materialized on my table 😉 .
Many pcb's/components have been tested and are ready to be put into a nice case in the style of SA20XX amplifiers.
For me it was really time to develop a preamp - I have built so many SA20XX power amplifiers - but a preamplifier was still missing - till now!
Volume can be set from -63.5dB to +12dB in 0.5 dB steps (precision +/-1%) and because it is relay switched, the distortion is ultra low. No analog volume control chip can have such good THD+N values. The (stereo!) zero crossing circuit and firmware switches click and pop free.
The preamplifier firmware can be updated in the field via the project integrated usb serial console.
With firmware from 2024.11.30 nearly every infrared remote control with extended NEC protocol can be used to control the preamp. Included in the project is a pic16f690 based remote control if you want to do even this DIY.

Have fun, Toni

-----------------------------------------

A) Preamplifier:

  • Latest valid schematic of 2x17V power supply post 117
  • Valid schematics in post 2
  • pcb's are available via: astx (at) astx.at
B) Remote Control for Preamplifier:

  • Latest valid schematics in post 2
  • pcb's are available via: astx (at) astx.at


INDEX / UPDATES
USERS BUILD:


NOTE: (c) 2021 - 2024 - astx.at
Only for personal and non commercial DIY usage! May contain copyrighted and/or patented information from third party!

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PC Audio Measurement - Pete Millet Sound Card Interface & Soundrite 2i2 USB Mic preamp

Pete Millet Sound Card Interface
&
Soundrite 2i2 USB Mic preamp


Selling a set consisting of a Pete Millet Sound Card Interface, along with a Soundrite 2i2 USB mic preamp, plus cables.
This combo gives an easy-to-use interface for audio measurements using a PC, via software like Arta, VirtuixCAD, Room EQ Wizard, Audiotester, etc.

Pete Millet designed an interface that does the following to simplify using a PC as an Audio Analzyer:
  • Able to accept a wide range of voltages and scale them for the sound card input
  • Survive over-voltage inputs without damage
  • Provide AC-coupling to protect from DC voltages (like plate voltage on a tube stage)
  • Provide a reasonably high impedance input, preferably with some ability to make floating measurements
  • Buffer and amplify the sound card output, with very low distortion and low output impedance
  • Provide a calibrated true-RMS AC voltage measurement
The Sound Card Interface is only available as a kit, this is built and tested, ready to go.

The Soundrite 2i2 is a modern, very low-noise floor USB mic preamplifier a/k/a/ 'Sound Card' which complements the Millet interface. It has a 120dB dynamic range, which really helps turn this combo into a professional tool for audio measurements.

With this combo (plus software that is not included, but some of which is free), one can do:
  • Spectrum analysis with Fast-Fourier-Transformation (FFT)
  • Sweep measurements
  • Measurement of Distortions vs. Power
  • Frequency response measurements
  • Distortion, Level Analyser and THD+N with several filters
  • Measurements of harmonic distortion

Asking $250 for the set including pictured cables.
($150 for the Milllet SC Interface, and $100 for the Soundrite 2i2)
Shipping from Saint Louis, MO 63108, at my cost.

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For Sale Audio tubes

Because I don't use some tubes from my collection, I am selling the following:


I can send in EU only. The shipping cost is around 20 euro +/-.

Please send me a private message for more details.

Regards,
Vlad

PASS AM part gathering

I'm looking to build an Aleph Mini, currently trying to gather parts to order, for now I have found:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/266392011176?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0 - the pcb
https://www.ebay.com/itm/156560013829 - mosfets
alternatively, but I'm not sure if it'd be best - https://www.ebay.com/itm/115126018088?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=wGG0QMocRHa

https://a.aliexpress.com/_EIU0SPC - enclosure

I'm also not quite sure about the PSU, what board / transformer should I use, and how to wire the potentiometer.

T25A Simple Waveguide Profile

Recently @hifijim started a new project involving the Bliesma T25A tweeter, as part of the discussion I offered to see if a simple small waveguide could be simulated. Jim has decided against the use of a waveguide for perfectly understandable reasons. I don't have a T25A myself and so I haven't created a printable model of the profile to test. There was some interest shown in that thread for the waveguide profile to be posted in a separate thread, so here it is.

The Bliesma aluminium drivers are very tall and require a different profile than many modern waveguides aim for in order to avoid ugly cancellations in the very high frequency range. I tried a number of variations on a theme in Ath to see what I could get, but it was not easy to find a profile that did not have some kind of downside to it.

I've simulated many CAD drawn profiles for the T25A in the past and so that is the route I tried next. This should hardly come as news or any kind of discovery as it has been known for a long time that dome tweeters almost always work in a waveguide that uses a section of a circular radius for it's profile. This does not have as dramatic of an effect on the directivity as OS or other proflies can have, but it is that property of not doing too much that allows it to work almost as a universal profile.

It is very simple to draw in a CAD program. I use Fusion and will outline how to use that program to draw it, but the principal could be applied to any other program.

This waveguide is thin at 6mm and relatively small at 104mm in diameter, similar to a standard tweeter faceplate.

I first draw a circle on the XZ plane that represents the throat, in this case it is 29.7mm, using a slightly higher value of 30mm might be preferable depending on the properties of the material being used to print it.

Sketch overview.png


A new sketch is drawn on the XY plane and the previous circle is projected into this sketch. I draw a construction line straight up at the depth of the waveguide in this case 6mm. I then draw another line across at a 90 degree angle the distance of half the overall diameter in this case 52mm. I then draw a 3 point arc between the projected throat, the outer point of the waveguide profile and the last point just needs to be below the top construction line. With practice you can place it so that tangency is already enforced, but if not use the sketch constraints to make the 3 point arc tangent to the top construction line. You can check if this has worked by extending the arc all the way around until it becomes a circle. In this case the 3 point arc as drawn has a radius of 118.01mm.


Profile sketch.png


The centre point of the circle that is the radius can be see by zooming out the sketch, it is highlighted in yellow

Screenshot 2025-01-27 at 2.40.58 PM.png


The same principal could be used to create a deeper and larger version of the same thing, there will then be a bigger effect on the overall directivity. This may not be a good thing for the T25A, but if the same ratio is kept between depth and outer diameter I would imagine it could be scaled up without creating negative interference. I haven't tested this so I cannot say exactly what will happen.

I have attached the surface profile as a zipped step file in case anyone wants to use it as is to create their own printable model.

I have attached the simulation outputs based on Jim's baffle. It is more consistent and even than a bare driver and given the size constraints, it fit's on the same diameter as the driver or can be made to. These are non normalized and show 1500 to 15K 0 to 90 degrees in 10 degree steps. The response is pretty much within 1 or 2 dB 0 to 40 degrees and is an even 10 dB down across the board at 90 degrees vs 0.

H Non normal 0 90 10 degree steps.png


There is diffraction on axis because this is a BEM model with fully reflective boundaries. All sharp edges and creases on the baffle of which there are a few that are also symmetric show the worst case scenario. A real wooden baffle with smoothed edges and a less symmetric profile would offset this to some extent.

0 degrees on axis.png


By 15 degrees off axis the response is a pretty smooth downslope

15 degrees off axis.png

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For Sale RJM Emerald phono preamplifier

For sale: RJM Emerald phono preamplifier.
The preamp was barely used because I sold the turntable shortly after building it.
It has been tested and is working. During testing, there was a bit of excess noise, but I’m not sure whether the issue was with the preamp or the turntable.
It’s being sold as-is, as I simply don’t have the time to investigate further.


Built with high-quality components:
Aluminum enclosure, AC filter, audio-grade 80VA transformer, additional Nichicon MUSE capacitors in the power supply, Jantzen Superior Z-cap, Wima, Dale resistors, Elna Silmic II, Mundorf Silver-Gold solder...

Price: 300€

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  • Like
Reactions: Bas Horneman

1.4" or 2" throat large constant directivity horns you can actually buy!

It's probably easiest if I start this off by explaining what I am aiming for. The speaker I'm designing is going to cover the range 80 - 18 kHz and ideally have a directivity of 90x40 (HxV). At the low end of the range I'm am willing to accept the speaker becoming a mono pole but I would like the directivity to extend as low as possible in frequency, however I would also like broad horizontal directivty even at low frequency. The speaker also needs to be able to output 125dB/1M peak AES SPL. The speaker is to be used at home where I will be listening 17 degrees off axis vertically (hence a speaker with nominal 50 degree directivity would be preferred over 40 degree) due to positioning constraints and also as a PA top where it will not have to array. I will be running different crossover settings depending on application, ideally I would like to get down to ~600 Hz if possible.

What I'm having trouble with is the lack of good quality data on horn/waveguide combinations. I'm aware of the following issues:
1. Large diaphragms only having high frequency output by operating beyond the pistonic mode but manufacturer data is very smoothed and as such I can't see if this is well damped or not.
2. Often I read about some wonder wave guide from a few years ago but the manufacturer doesn't exist anymore or has moved out of the market. Or the manufacturer dosen't sell to the public. (E.G the K402 waveguide looked very interesting).
3. The expected exit angle isn't listed for the waveguides and most manufacturers are not giving the compresion driver exit angle so matching a waveguide with a driver seems to involve expensive trial and error.
4. Many waveguides are not constant directivity at all and yet are listed as such by the manufacturer! (I.E I can see from the shape that its exponential)
5. The high frequency dispersion of a waveguide can be limited by the dispersion of the compression driver but no data is supplied on this.
6. Vast differences in price between various options with no clear data on why.

So taking on this difficult landscape I have come up with a few combinations and I wonder what you think of them and if you know of any more information I have missed:
1. P-AUDIO PH-4525 This is the largest P-Audio wave guide and is only £25 and has a mouth width of 425 mm with a throat of 2". I have read that a lot of P-Audio products are clones of JBL, if so does anyone know what model this would be? In terms of driver pairings they measure it with this P-Audio BM-D750 (£85) or there is the huge P-Audio BM-D950 (not sure where to buy) a 4" diaphragm seems to be pushing it in terms of possible breakup problems! P-Audio claim it can go lower than the D750 though...

There are some measurements of the D750 combo here seems that at least one person likes it.

2. The same horn but assuming the dispersion of these large diaphragm drivers is poor using the very expensive (for me) BMS 4592 ND (£430). This is a coaxial and carry's a number of risks that make me uncomfortable. Firstly I'm not sure if it will work well with this horn and secondly if using it I would like to have a passive crossover between the 1" and 2" driver which will add a lot of development time. Ideally as this driver can go super low (300Hz) I would like to mate it with a much larger horn but I don't know where to get one for sane cost. I would be willing to try and extend the mouth of an existing flare but building the throat area I'm not very confident I could do well. This is also more money than I would like to spend considering I will also need to add woofers, electronics, box etc.

3. An in-between driver not as expensive as the BMS but with better data than the P-Audio such as the HF200. This seems to be quite well damped as the frequency response isn't as smoothed (£187).

3. 1.4" exit drivers. As my SPL requirements aren't crazy this may actually make a lot of sense, as the horns will be smaller and dispersion better? and result in lower cost. For this the RCF HF950 looked quite attractive (especially as it has 50 degree vertical dispersion and claims 'perfect' constant directivity) (£55). For a matching driver the RCF ND840 ooked quite interesting and as its from the same manufacturer it may match up with the horn well? (£145)

*Yes I am aware that I should build a synergy horn type thing and I will but this will take a while and in the meantime I need better speakers...
  • Like
Reactions: NBPK402

Sell THF-51s 2SK182ES NEW NOS TO-79 SIT V-FET, from Japan TOKIN

Tokin SissySIT THF-51S 2SK182ES MJ21193G MJ21194G MJ21194 LM350K STEEP+ 2N5566 My quotation does not include the handling fee of PAYPAL. Please understand that my quotation does not include the handling fee of paying PAYPAL. Old second-hand 2SK180 K180 appearance

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2SB206 B206 2SB205 B205 TO-79 NOS New 2SB206 GE-PNP 80 V 30 A 80 W Quantity: 50PCS 1 piece USD: 65.28
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THF-51S 2SK182ES K182ES THF51S SissySIT Friends who need matching. Please leave a message.
The event is only open to BBS friends because each VGS may be different, so for friends who need more, I need to spend a few days testing (need to measure a lot) (because everyone trusts me, so I do it myself. I may spend A few days, because I have other work to do, so I will try to measure the time if I can match them randomly, the amount will be slightly higher if you need to follow VGS -4V or more, hope you all can understand, thank you)
EMAIL :378632242@qq.com SKYPE: Live broadcast: 378632242
2:2SK182ES K182ES NOS NEW v-fet TOKIN from Japan Spot quantity: 50PCS
Matching price: USD: 100/1PCS Thf-51s 2SK182ES features: each has a different sequence number, a different number, a 1-10 number (this is a brand new original, only owned by NOS)
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Mica thickness 4.5 (thickest)

Buy thf-51s 2SK182ES for free insulating pads, mica sheets, screws
It can be delivered in a package
(if you do not have a friend who bought thf-51s, you need to pay the postage by yourself. If you need, you can leave a message or send it to my email:378632242@qq.com.)
See the picture:
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MJ21193G MJ21194G MJ21194 MJ21193 NOS NEW ON Motorola
1pair=USD:11.56
QTY:80pair
NOS NEW ON MJ21193G MJ21194G MJ21193 MJ21194 250V-16A-200W-4MHZ

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LM350K LM350K STEEL
USD:11.57 /1PCS
NEW NOS LM350K LM350K STEEP+ 9712+ I have 50PCS
NSC 8608+ LM350K STEEP+ I have 620PCS

LM350K STEEL NEW NOS NSC TO-3 NEW STEELP+ 0142+ NOS 1PCS USD:11.57 I have 785PCS
Brand NSC
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Model LM350k

MAX input voltage 35V

The input voltage of MINIi is 4.2V

Adjust the voltage 1.2-33v direct current

Current 3 a MAX

To encapsulate the to - 3

With the original packaging, packaging foam board is die-cast with the manufacturer's brand. I take it apart. I take it apart. Here is a picture of the tube wafer taken by someone using an electron microscope. It can be seen that the wafer is made in Britain. He who knows is sure to know the goods.

The national semiconductor company makes LM350k. It's not a big problem to play with equipment. The money you really spend is worth it. It is also clear that the foam packaging of this tube is also special and each is individually attached to the tube, rather than the usual one with a cylinder in the middle to separate the surrounding tube. It can directly replace the LM317. This tube can be regarded as the more powerful LM317. The current is twice that of 317, reaching 3A. It is a good choice to supply the machine with sufficient current. Naim power supply board made of high current pipe with low internal resistance, which is a feature pursued by burning friend. Spread knowledge by the way. The quality of the steel tube on the net varies greatly, there are used polish to fill the new, some of the pin resin seal holes are large holes. This kind of imported tubes are all small holes. The color of resin is mainly black, brown, green and red, with few blue. The printed word on the surface of the normal pipe is in the middle, and the position is basically the same. Word is not raised, a bit of brown black, and the surface coating is matte color, won't be very bright, that is polished. Iron tube screw fixation will leave a mark on the screw hole where can distinguish between used and new. This tube is typically quoted at more than 300, which is more expensive than LT's 317.



Refer to the official PDF map for details. You can download the PDF for reference.

s-l500.jpg

s-l500.jpg


s-l500.jpg

s-l500.jpg


Shipping and ordering T&C
Sort:
Please give me a PM with the following information:
Forum ID:
Real name:
The recipient:
Contact number:
Mailing address:
Paypal account email:
Bill of materials, quantity and options
The value of the parcel declared for customs/insurance purposes.

payment:
Exclusively provided by PayPal. PayPal fees are always included in the displayed price.
Prices are shown in US dollars, please specify when placing an order.

Shipping and handling:
Shipping fee and courier method: China Post 12day-20day
After receiving PayPal, I will ship within 2 business days.
If someone has not received your package within 20 business days of my delivery notice, please let me know.
The shipping and packaging charges for the order are: 1PCS-4PCS=USD: 12.0 In some countries, China post freight only needs USD: 10.0 (Some countries have far-fetched fare, shipping rates may be high+: USD: 2.0)
4PCS-8PCS=USD: 15.0 (some countries are far away, shipping costs may be high+ USD: 2.0)
Buyers in mainland China, Hong Kong and Taiwan can support the payment (support SF Express)
DHL:If the buyer is in a hurry and wants to receive the goods soon, you can choose DHL.

Shipping fee is: 1PCS-4PCS=USD: 29.22
5PCS-10PCS=USD: 43.84

Because the contract with DHL Express, so the freight, gave me the advantage of the price, the freight will be cheaper
The time limit is: 4-5 days to receive

运输政策:请注意,包裹保险不包含在运输条款和条件中指定的运输费用中。请联系我获取保险报价。如果您想为包裹购买保险,请考虑使用更可靠的递送服务提供商,例如 DHL、EMS 或 FEDEX。 PM,给我留言,如果接受条件,请只下订单。谢谢您的理解。

2SK182ES thf-51s 需要一个匹配的朋友
请留言

Pairing就是配对的价格(PM就可以了)
当我不忙的时候,我会测量。下面是2SK182ES的流程。

ADAU1452+AD1938 DSP crossover

Hello,
I'm building an ADAU1452 based DSP crossover with the AD1938 codec. The features I need are:
  • SPDIF input
  • 2 ch (stereo) analog input
  • extra I2S input
  • 3 outputs per channel, so 6 outputs in total

It's largely based on the datasheet and EVM. Though I want to keep it simple and compact, so no ADC or GPIO stuff, no digital output etc.
What I am unsure about is how to program the thing. There's not much info on this apart from using the official USBi programmer, but I read that a FX2LP programmer should work? Also I don't want to use a 1Mb eeprom, is 256k enough for a simple program?
Anyway, here is the schematic:

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SA2023 2.1 Class D - Active Crossover Power Amplifier using 3 Hypex UCD180 modules

Has been a long time to finish this 2.1 active crossover amplifier project.
The projects idea started 2017 by designing a 2.1 linkwitz riley 24dB analog crossover pcb.

Hypex components used in this amp:
1 x SMPS400A180
2 x UCD180 HxR
1 x UCD180

Modushop.biz:
1 x Slim Line 01/280 10mm BLACK front panel - 3mm aluminium covers - Rear panel: Without IEC hole. Typ: 1NSLA01280N

Own components used in this amp:
1 x +/-15V powersupply for the analog crossover - +/-21V derived from SMPS400A180
1 x analog crossover pcb
1 x sa2022 grounding pcb
1 x 5V power supply with 230V/16A relay - prepared for MCU control

The crossover frequency is tuned to 80Hz. The 2 basschannels are mixed down to a mono subwoofer signal.
The 1 HE sized case has been diy machined and diy engraved at home using a grblHAL style diy CNC machine.

A perfect combination to drive my outdoor 2.1 system (2x Polk audio Atrium 8 SDI and one Atrium SUB100)

Have fun,
Toni

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Rockford Prime 1000.1D - identifying smd caps

Hi,
Have this amp for a repair. No class D switching, nothing in short.
Was mounted freely in a trunk, an object hit it really hard looking at the deformed metal heatsink.
SMD caps C117, C141, C102 were cracked/split in half, maybe I will find more like those while poking around. Does anybody has schematics around the PWM / flip flop ic section or can tell me what are the values for those smd caps in the attached picture ?

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Measuring enamel thickness and enamel permittivity on winding wire

Does anyone know how one can independently measure the thickness of enamel and/or enamel permittivity of enameled wire?
Of course, if one knows either one of these two qualities, the other can be determined by the salt water immersion test (measure capacitance between the wire and the water.) A large scale transformer manufacturer who buys wire in hundreds of kilometres, the manufacturers would no doubt provide such data. But for me, a one man semi-hobbyist/semi consultant, that won't happen. The IEC published a standard, 60317, but manufacturers of wire readily available seem to ignore it.
One cannot just use a micrometer on the OD because the tolerance on copper diameter is large compared to enamel thickness. I tried various means of removing enamel, such as scrapping, heating with a gas flame then scrapping, but got very inconsistent results. Common solvents such as gasoline, paint stripper, etc have no effect at all on the enamel.
Note: I posted this question a few weeks ago, but the thread was hijacked by people, obviously not involved in inductor/transformer design or making such, seeking to convince me I don't need to know. If I didn't need to know, I would not have asked the question.
In a machine-wound closed packed winding, capacitance is determined by both the enamel and the surrounding air or impregnant. One needs to know both thickness and pemittivity of the enamel because the electric flux is concentrated where the tuns touch - the degree of concentration is dependent on the ratio of these quantities.
some thought there is no mathematical formula one can use to predict self capacitance. But there is - for example Massarini's method, or Koch's method.

Class D Amp Photo Gallery

There are plenty of cool pictures in the photo gallery threads posted in the other forums, so it only seems right that there be such a place to post your amp photos in the class d forum as well.

It doesn't matter whether you've got a prototype working on the breadboard, an amp jerry rigged on the table, or an electronic masterpiece in a case; post your stuff here for everyone to check out. It's a good way to share ideas and may even give someone a little bit of inspiration to tackle that project they've been wanting to do 🙂
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Software DSP Processing using Gstreamer pipelines and the GSASysCon app

Last Update to this Page: 25 April 2025.

GSASysCon Release 3.15.1 is now available for download. It includes an automated setup script that should make it easier to get started. You can find the project at GitHub using this link:
https://github.com/charlielaub/GSASysCon

To download the GZIP+TAR compressed file:
Under Linux you can use wget to download the file into the current directory instead of having to use a browser:
wget https://github.com/charlielaub/GSASysCon/archive/refs/tags/3.15.1.tar.gz
To unpack the compressed files: first gunzip the gz archive and then run tar -xvf on the resulting tar file. Follow the instructions in the SetupGuide.txt doc in the directory /system_control/docs.

You can look over the documentation online before downloading, at this link:
https://github.com/charlielaub/GSASysCon/tree/main/system_control/docs



ABOUT GSASysCon:
During the past 10 years I have been using Gstreamer pipelines plus my LADSPA plugins to implement software based IIR DSP processing. I find this approach much easier to configure and use than CamillaDSP so I would like to share this with the rest of the DIY community.

Gstreamer is a powerful multi-media platform that is continually undergoing development and improvement. Because Gstreamer pipelines are difficult to write from scratch, I wrote an application that generates them based on the contents of a user input file that describes the DSP processing. The application consists of a couple of input files and a large bash script (currently about 3000 lines long). The app will also launch and kill the pipelines when directed by you, and basic in-app volume control of local devices is available. Together these can be used to turn your computer into a “preamp” with input switching and volume control plus everything you need to do DSP processing. I use this to run all my own systems.

The app has the name “Gstreamer Streaming Audio System Controller”, or GSASysCon. GSASysCon is completely open source and you are welcome to modify or develop it.

Here is a quick overview of the behavior and features:

• Control of and Interaction with the program is 100% text based via simple input files and a text-based user-interface.
• Substitution and channel duplication capabilities make it easy to describe the DSP processing for complicated, multichannel setups.
• Filtering and routing is easy to configure via an intuitive configuration file structure
• The control interface can turn systems on and off and control playback volume. These features can be controlled remotely over your LAN via SSH.
• Gstreamer provides several source and sink TIME (not rate) based synchronization mechanisms. This makes it possible for synchronized playback of multiple, disparate sinks and adaptive rate playback.
• Can be run under Debian/Ubuntu based OSes (including Rasberry Pi OS) or Windows 11 WSL2 in which the bash shell is available.
• GSASysCon has no external dependencies except Gstreamer, and bash built-in commands.
• Input audio is typically via Pipewire/PulseAudio monitor or ALSA Loopback (use VB-Audio Virtual Cable under Windows)
• The Gstreamer command string for any pipeline can captured and run outside of the app, if desired.

Some differences between GSASysCon and CamillaDSP are:

• GSASysCon can create playback systems made up of multiple remote clients. Audio is sent using RTP over the local network (hardcable or WiFi) to one or more playback endpoints (computer+audio device/DAC). Tight playback synchronization between endpoints can be achieved when their clocks are synchronized using chrony (NTP).
• GSASysCon has no fancy level meters, no GUI, and no flow or filter diagrams except what can be generated manually using Gstreamer
• In GSASysCon, DSP is exclusively IIR filtering via LADSPA as filter-chains. FIR filtering is not currently available.
• GSASysCon was designed for music playback without any particular concerns for latency. Buffer size is fixed at 1024 samples.
• Gstreamer pipelines created with GSASysCon run at a fixed audio rate and bit depth that is chosen by the user. There is a high quality resampler built into Gstreamer that handles SR conversions.


The combination of Gstreamer and LADSPA is a robust and reliable DSP platform for DIY audio processing under Linux, or WSL2 under Windows. I've been using this to implement IIR DSP crossovers for almost 10 years in tandem with my ACDf LADSPA plugin. ACDf implements all the first and second order filter types – it’s all you need for loudspeaker crossovers and PEQ duty.




.

Woden Design Linear Quadrupole Designs

Since I've found these intriguing and have not seen any real discussion, I thought it might make sense to start a focused thread on them. Perhaps, they are best not labeled 'Woden Design' as all I've seen are on MarkAudio's site, but it seems appropriate.

Some Initial Questions:

1) Do these result in a similar sound field to that of the MBL RadialStrahler systems and, perhaps others similar (Manger?, Ohm Walsh?)? Without the added complexity of crossovers for omnidirectional considerations.

2) Does the need to site them around four feet from the nearest walls diminish if they are not square to the walls of a rectangular room?

3) There are quadrupole designs for three of the MA 11CM drivers (MAOP11ms, Alpair 11MS, CHN110). Each has different interior dimensions. Could the same dimensions be used for all three with adjustments to the vent length and diameter without any real compromise?

4) If I would like to be able to readily change vent length and diameter without needing to do work inside the cabinet, would using exterior mounted vents without any protrusion into the cabinet work? I'm thinking of round cylinders of wood that would attach to the cabinet with a larger hole in the cabinet, large enough to not alter the vent function.

I'm interested to see the responses and would love to know about any builds.

Skip

Overcurrent protection monitor for a direct bias amp

Does anyone have a schematic, (or sell a PCB), for a circuit that can monitor the voltage drop across a 1 ohm sense resistor and output a latched high output if the voltage goes over the pre determined set point? Whereby if the voltage rises over a set point it will output a latched high that can then be used to energize a relay that cuts mains power via its NC contacts. For example your amplifier loses its bias for some reason, your four 300B tubes worth $1,000 start to melt down and you want the whole amp to simply turn itself off. I see that the INA300 chip does exactly what I need, but I don't want to start from scratch on that.

Belt will not stay on pulley shaft

I purchased this thorns TD 165 a few months ago while I was trying to get back into audio on the cheap. It was for parts only, and among other things, the andskate rods replaced with pop rivet shafts. I figured there are a few other things wrong as I was trying to tweak it and get it back into shape. One thing I noticed was that the third screw that was used to mount the motor was a shaft with screw threads at the bottom. This led me to believe that this unit may have been cobbled together from other non-working turntables.
The turntable belt looked old, and I figured it might be original. I ordered a good replacement, but it would not stay on the pulley.
Another thing I noticed was that the belt was thinner than the standard replacement belt.
I purchased a replacement pulley. But it suffered from the same difficulty - it would not stay on the pulley. It works fine at 45, but will not work at 33.
Thanks for your help.

Small Driver for MEH

I have been designing another small MEH.

So far I have been designing it around the Faital Pro 2fe24 however from doing measurements the distortion is mega high at 10% THD at 10W around 600hz. It's still mega high on less power minimum 2% or 3% THD

Edit: thought I would add that this distortion is even just with a small rear chamber and no front chamber/ports/horn

1745482469615.png


This is the rear chamber I made for it: (I got the 3d file from Faital Pro and seal it with a small o ring at the top)
It is fully sealed, you can tell because the cone is harder to move than when it's free.

20250424_091136.jpg


I'm going to borrow some peerless 830970 to try which look a bit more suitable

Does anyone know of any other good drivers that could be used in a MEH that are 2" or 2.5"?

I'm trying to push the mid up to 2.5khz at least so I need a 2" really
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The Future of Twisted Pear Audio

Hi all.

I have been running Twisted Pear Audio for upwards of 18 years now, and it feels like a child (actually, it's roughly the same age as my kids). As with children, it has reached a point where I feel it is time to let go. As such, I will be winding down operation of Twisted Pear Audio in the coming weeks and months.

To be honest, this has already been happening for a while now. Back in in 2021, Russ decided to drop out for personal and professional reasons, and I have been carrying things along since then by myself. I find I have less and less resources to dedicate to it (time really), and think I have reached a point where my priorities lie elsewhere.

I (we) started Twisted Pear out of a shared love of electronics, tinkering, and most of all, helping others with their interests. The web site started as a better way to manage Group Buys, but over time turned into it's own thing, and dragged us a long into a small business. While it was always just the two of use running things, it was really our customers that kept us going, and brought us the joy required to wrap our lives around the whole thing. I have built many friendships with you folks over the years. I have seen many of you come and go. It was, at times, all-consuming, and an emotional roller coaster, and mostly great fun. My personal drive has always been (and is) to help other people find enjoyment, and Twisted Pear has certainly helped me scratch that itch.

I want to express my thanks to everyone in the community who has participated in our little adventure over the years. My memories are rich and fulfilling. Thanks to you all.

Anyway, over the coming weeks and months I will be finding ways to dispense with a good sized inventory of electronic components. I am thinking of either giving things away, or trading for contributions to charity (someone donates to charity and I send them a box of stuff). Not really sure at this point, and I am open to ideas. I am not sure how many people will be interested in a 4000 piece spool of 59.4-ohm resistors, for example, so, what do I do with them? Other things are much more straight forward. In addition to parts for kits, I have a large personal inventory that could use some thinning out. How many power transformers am I going to need for personal projects? I have lots.

Keep and eye out for more updates, and please stay in touch.

All the best-
Brian


UPDATE (2024-Jan-1): I am keeping Twisted Pear open, with just a more limited selection.

3 way project - final impedence too low

Hi all
some years ago I built a couple of 2 way speakers based on mid-woofer SB17NRXC35-8 and a tweeter SB26STC-C000-4.
The cabinet was sealed with a volume of 15L
I enjoyed a lot them, but I feel that bass are too poor. So I decided to realize a new project 3 way that is an extension of that one.
I'm evaluating 2 sub-woofer: SB26SFCL38-8 or dayton sd270a-88 (the first one to be preferred bcause it is 8 ohm).

I designed the cabninet, all SPL response and the crossover. My only problem is that the final impedence seems too low (about 2 ohm expecially at high freq) and I'm not able to adjust it. I tried with LPAD, but I'm not so familiar and I was not able to reach good result.

Can someone help me?

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SounDigital 2400.4 output fet identification

Hello all, I'm currently working on a SounDigital 2400.4 EVOX. Would anyone happen to know which output fets are used?

Back story: When powered up, the amp has no power light or rail voltage and smoke comes from a few pins of the SG3525a. When I remove the output card, the amp powers up with a blue light and builds rail voltage with no issue.

So the issue seems to be a short on the output card. All output fets don't appear to be shorted when checking continuity between the gates/drain/source, so I believe the issue may be the irs2052m chips instead. But I'm planning on replacing the fets as well while I'm in there. Thanks in advance

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Open-source USB interface: Audio Widget

Announcement: Audio Widget project

The Audio Widget project is open-source code and schematics for
USB based digital audio. It has functional firmware and software. And
it sounds good!

Cool? You bet! Here you can get started with USB audio without
worrying too much about the USB part of things.

Or you can contribute to a great open-source coding project. The
most important contribution we could need right now is coders for
USB Audio Class 2 drivers on Windows. But other efforts are needed
too. See below.

The code is written in C for the Atmel AT32UC3A3256 32-bit MCU. It
supports USB Audio Class 1.0 and 2.0 (UAC2). On Windows / UAC1 it
works with 24/44.1 and 24/48 with sample skip/insert. Asynchronous
USB is in progress, and we could use your help.

On Linux (>2.6.37) and OS X, using asynchronous USB, it also
supports 24/88.2, 24/96, 24/176.4 and 24/192. The open-source
firmware is in a git repository. It can be selectively compiled to run
on the three different boards. The firmware includes several UI and
display options.

There are three hardware options. The hardware is in a beta state. It
plays music very well, but there is still tweak potential.


1) A stand-alone USB-DAC with stereo audio playback functions only.
This board uses the ES9022 DAC chip. Contact
george.boudreau@YoyodyneConsulting.ca for info on how to obtain
one. More information on the this and other audio designs visit
Yoyodyne Consulting/Audio Hardware

2) USB-I2S module + Analog Board. The module has all the pinouts you
need for digital audio, GPIO, I2C, SPI, LCD display and UART debug.
The module uses 2.0mm pitch pin rows. The Analog Board uses the
module to do stereo playback with an ES9022 DAC and low-noise
VBUS-LDO based power. AB-1 is a straightforward design to begin with,
and if you're into analog tweaking we challenge you to make your own
versions! Schematics and BOM are on
Downloads - sdr-widget - Audio and Control Interface for Amateur Radio SDR and Audiophile USB-DAC - Google Project Hosting.
Go to Q N K T C USB-I2S Module and Analog Board 1 for more information. Contact
borge.strand@gmail.com to obtain a kit.

3) SDR-Widget Beta 2.0. This is the original fork of the project,
open-source HAM radio. The hardware supports both playback and
record. Contact george.boudreau@YoyodyneConsultingl.com for info
on how to obtain one. Visit
Yoyodyne Consulting/SDR-Widget
for more information of pricing and availability.

For more information, go to sdr-widget - Audio and Control Interface for Amateur Radio SDR and Audiophile USB-DAC - Google Project Hosting
and
https://groups.google.com/group/audio-widget?hl=en
This announcement is cross-posted. Please join the mailing lists of
both SDR-Widget and Audio-Widget to continue the discussion there.

SDR-Widget is the original branch, where most of the firmware
discussions take place.

Feel like contributing? We'd always like to see more hands. There's
quite a few tasks planned:

- Firmware for Asynchronous UAC1 / Windows for 44.1 and 48ksps.

- Analog tweaks. Ideas are welcome for PSU, DAC, IVC, preamp etc.
Feel free to make suggestions, or even better, your own Analog
Board for the USB-I2S module.

- Windows open-source drivers for USB Audio Class 2.0. This
protocol is supported in Linux and OS X kernels, but not yet
in Windows.

- Adding more IO control to the firmware


Cheers,
Børge

Jeff Bagbys Universal Crossover Query

Rather than muddy my other speaker post I'll ask for answers here.
If I want to play "Mix&Match" with different boxes as Jeff talked about I'll want to put the XO in a separate enclosure and either use it as a base or as a divider and sit the second box on top.

Would the components get warm enough to need a ventilated box?
I've made standalone crossovers before but I've made those in old amplifier cases so I've never had to think about heat issues

Hello from Korea! Excited to Join DIYAudio 🎶

안녕하세요 여러분.
이 놀라운 커뮤니티에 가입하게 되어 매우 기쁩니다!


저는 하이엔드 오디오 디자인, 특히 DIY 스피커와 크로스오버 네트워크에 깊은 열정을 가지고 있습니다.


최근에 Accuton 드라이버(C25-6-158, C90-6-079, C173-6-191E x2)를 사용하여 4방향 스피커 시스템을 설계하고 맞춤형 패시브 크로스오버를 신중하게 만들었습니다.
AI(ChatGPT)와 철저한 계산을 통해 부드럽고 자연스러운 소리를 위해 주파수 응답과 위상 정렬을 조정했습니다.


이 멋진 취미를 계속 발전시키고 즐기면서 여기 계신 모든 훌륭한 전문가분들께 배우고 제 프로젝트를 공유할 수 있기를 기대합니다.


환영해 주셔서 감사합니다!
제목 없음 - 제외 (2).jpg

TPA3255 will not start

Have made a TPA3255 board thinking it would be super easy to get working 🙄

But it will not start up, and I'm a bit stuck .....

There is oscillation on OSC_IOM/IOP, see oscilloscope picture.
Had made some stupid mistakes with the reset circuit, but have replaced it with just a blue LED and the 5.6k to 12V which was already there. This means I get 2.6V on reset which should be ok. When I short the LED, bringing RESET to GND and let go again, there is short action on the output surely trying to start up, but it stops right away.
I have put red numbers on the Schematics, for the measured voltages.

Fault is low, and Clip_OTW is high.
This should mean "Overload (OLP) or undervoltage (UVP). Junction temperature lower than 125°C" .... but where is the Under voltage?
Nothing is hot.

When reset is set to GND Fault goes high.

Any suggestions?

Thanks

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DA Ultimax II 18" for Sealed box (first build ever)

Ive had my hsu VTF2 Mk3 forever and I kinda wanted something new. Bringing a whole subwoofer from the US (live in Brazil) checked in on the plane is a huge hassle. I know, cause thats how I brought my hsu sub back home. After online dating with Speedwoofers I've decided that it's easier and better to just buy the driver, amp (not sure if plate or external) and assemble it here in Brazil.

I was thinking. If I get a 150ish liters box (not counting the area of the driver itself, potential amp or braces might take), would that be enough for a good response? I live in an apartment, even my hsu sub never ever reached anywhere near its potential, so I'm really not looking to reach some crazy output. My goal is to have an agile that performs very well for music and can deal with a good range (20hz+) for movies and videogames. 18 inches may sound a bit overkill, but since I can't just swap the driver cause I have to fly to America to get another one, I just don't wanna waste the trip.... does that make sense?

I cant get my hands on 0,25mm MDF here, which is pretty much equivalent to one inch thick. I was thinking maybe using the 1 inch thick MDF would make me require less bracing making the build a lot easier?
Also maybe using a external amp could make my life easier too for the assembly and maybe I could save money with a used external amp... I use a Denon 3313 CI. Do I need anything else? Or is it just the amp, woofer and enclosure?

Any thoughts? The Ultimax II 18" measurements made me really excited!!!
Help me out, and if you think something you might wanna point out is too obvious: don't. I'm stupid, go ahead and say it. I'm just an ******* with a dream here.

Travel speaker build

First, you should know:
I am a seafarer and I spend fully half of my adult life out at sea. I'd like to say it's just a job, but it really does qualify as a life.

Second thing: I built a powered speaker system to suit my job and I'll tell you the things it needed to achieve in order to even make it aboard a ship with me.
  1. Minimum weight: check in luggage has weight limits if you aren't filthy rich. I think the whole setup (2 speakers, MiniDSP Flex & cables) is around 25lbs.
  2. Small box dimensions: keeping things small is actually a good way to keep weight down as well...less wood, less weight...and Small box means small suitcase witch might also weigh less.
  3. Nothing stands proud of the box: it's soo much easier to protect the drive units if the surrounds or domes aren't sticking out into harms way. Just tape a protective piece of cardboard over delicate drivers and done!
  4. Wide bandwidth at the expense of SPL: staterooms aboard ship are tiny so no need to get crazy loud....but I still like bass.
045.jpg
The completed package.

More later.

Russian TV damper diode (6D20P) heater-cathode voltage

Hi,

To make a long story short, I'm working on a SET design with a slightly complex PSU design (200, 270 and 380Vdc from three separate transformer windings).
I plan to use 2x 6AU4GTA in a hybrid bridge for the 380V rail (@140mA) and I also wish to use vacuum diodes for the other two (20mA and 100mA respectively).
To keep the costs down I've been looking at russian dampers (6D14P and 6D20P) for the input and driver tube supply rails but I can't quite figure out how to interpret the heater-cathode insulation ratings in the datasheets:
6d20p.jpg

Would it be safe (in long terms) to use these tubes as rectifiers up to less than 300Vdc with the heaters referenced to ground?
I could connect the heaters to the cathodes but would prefer not to if possible, no other tubes will be powered by the same heater windings though.

PP 6V6 amp from RCA RC-19 manual -- Thoughts?

I'm trying to decide on a push-pull amp to start building. I have most of the parts required, including transformers, and a couple of hand-me-down chassis I can use. I was thumbing through one of my old copies of the RCA Receiving Tubes manuals and found this in RC-19:

1725464422957.png


R18 and R19 (100k) take signal off the 6V6 plates to the 6AU6 driver cathodes for NFB.

R9 and R10 (330k) are a mystery to me. Simulation shows they increase the NFB a little. But how? I guess they feed a little output signal from the cathodes to the grids of the 6AU6s. That would create a little positive feedback, no?

Otherwise the design is straightforward.

I don't have a 9k or 10k OPT, but I do have a pair of 8k:VC OPTs.

The capacitor values introduce high pass filters in a couple of places that result in an infrasonic peak closed loop. I'd increase the values of C3, C4, C7, C8 to smooth that out. Otherwise the design looks well behaved, as the OPT is not within the feedback loop.

I would also improve the power supply; make it stiffer by using UF4007 diodes and bigger reservoir and first smoothing caps, and try to stabilize or regulate the 6V6 screen supply.

QUESTIONS:
  • Would it be better to use plate-grid FB around the 6V6 outputs, or is the 6V6-plate to 6AU6-cathode FB basically the same thing done a little differently?
  • Is the addition of R9 and R10 a good idea? I've never seen that done in any other amp designs I've looked at.
  • I assume using a 6FQ7 or 6CG7 in place of the 12AU7 would be an improvement and would not require much in the way of changes. Good idea?
  • I might also try this with EL84 or even 6P15P outputs instead of 6V6s. Thoughts on that? I think it would be an improvement, and they'd be easier to drive as well.

???

Matching horns to compression drivers, a discussion

A thread to discuss how well a compression driver matches the profile of a particular horn, and how to determine that match - or mismatch.
When choosing a compression driver to go with a particular horn, what is important to know so that the two work well together? Can any driver be used with any horn? Or do some compression drivers work well certain horns and not well with others?

EDIT: April 19, 2023

Attached to this post you will find a spreadsheet, kindly provided by @marco_gea, that allows you to calculate and see the match between a given horn and driver. The spreadsheet takes the parameters of the compression driver throat and calculates an exponential horn that has an equivalent flare rate to the driver throat. With that information you can calculate and see how well a certain expo or hypex horn will match the driver's initial flare rate.
Instructions are included in the spreadsheet.

Obviously the first thing we would look at when choosing a compression driver for a horn is "are they the same size?" In other words, is it a 1", 1.4", 1.4" or 2" entrance to the horn? We normally choose a driver of the exit size as the horn throat. Also to be considered would be the mounting style, such as screw or bolts and the bolt pattern. Adapters can be used for different mount styles and even sizes. For example a common adapter is to use a 1.4" exit driver on a 2" entrance horn. PRV even make a 1" to 2" adapter. But beyond those obvious mechanical matching issues, will a certain driver work well or poorly with a different horn? And how can we determine that for a good match? How do we know the internal geometry of a particular driver?

DE1095TN.jpg
Faital-1inch.jpg
Radian-Altec.jpg


Horns come in many shapes, sizes and profiles. We might look at a Smith horn that has no vertical expansion at all, but a wide horizontal expansion, to a Kilpsch horn with a long narrow vertical expansion and somewhat wide horizontal expansion - to a long horn that looks somewhat like a trumpet, to the Yuichi and others with mixed expansion.
Klipsch.jpg
long-horn.jpg
B-C_horn.jpg



I'll cite a recent example. Forum moderator @kevinkr recently went thru a good deal of trouble and expense to learn what driver works best for his new Yuichi horns. The Yuichi is a wide horn, but not very tall. In fact the horn very quickly goes to over 90° flare in the horizontal axis, while remaining with zero expansion along the vertical axis for about half its length. The horn is very much axi-asymetric, as opposed to a round horn where the expansion is axi-semetric. Is the horn a rapid expansion, narrow, or somewhere in between? What driver geometry would work best on this horn?
This is what the Yuichi looks like inside.

Yuichi-top.png
Yuichi-side.png

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