Hello greetings
i need a small usb dac player is it possible to make this player i have the hardware but my software skills are
limited just want to ask few questions .Hoping anyone can help me.
warm regards
Andrew

http://www.crazy-audio.com/2014/04/...DbbzmPkdWO2r0oXh-xpqbttzEadd1yEYOwpQM8rEmA_FI

This is the project.

I recently got the parts for a ICEPower 200ASC Dual Monoblock amplifier. A little while ago I finished building Rod Elliots P05 and P06 phono stages. Ive been thinking about combining these boards plus a RaspberryPi based DAC and input selector into one chassis.

The current hangup is the input selector, tape loop and bypass. I would like to have three auxiliary inputs, one tape loop and one amplifier bypass to output to my seperate tube-based headphone amplifier. Are there any PCBs out there that could accommodate something like this? Or am I going to have to design something myself for this project?

I currently have a Pioneer SX-550 which I really enjoy. Im hoping to build everything into a similar silverfaced chassis, something that resembles the Pioneer SA- line of amplifiers from the 70s.

Let me know what you think!

Hi i was redirected here to voice my issue. Basically when i try to search for something on this forum thru google (with typical search phrase 'something something diyaudio') im getting way less results than before and when i click on the link it doesnt take me to the right page where the search term is. This issue's been persistent since the day 1 of the forum upgrade.

Hello all, first time poster here. A little background on me and my project. I am a wildlife biologist that is currently pursuing bioacoustic projects. The specific project I currently need help with is night flight calls given by migrating birds. These sounds are are usually concentrated in the 5-8khz range with outliers on both sides (black-billed cuckoos are very low and some sparrows are over 10khz).

My setup uses a raspberry pi with a sound blaster play 3 audio interface as the recorder. I am using the POM-2730L-HD-R (http://www.puiaudio.com/pdf/POM-2730L-HD-R.pdf) and use the recommended drive circuit in the datasheet. I currently use a preamp designed by old bird, Inc (Old Bird 21c), but they are expensive and hard to get as a stand alone item. I don't know much about how that preamp works other than it runs off 9-12V single supply and passes on 5V to an electret element. The preamp is balanced too. My setup runs off a 12V solar powered battery that powers the raspberry pi. The raspberry pi sends out 5V to a 9V step up converter that then powers the preamp.

I am in need of a preamp design that I can make at home (have some skill in putting components together) or purchase one that would suite my needs. What I am looking for is an ultra low-noise, balanced, linear, single supply (12 volt preferably) electret preamp that I can build myself or buy. I would prefer it have set gain levels to limit variables when setting up the "Night Flight Call Stations". Gain could then be set using the audio interface.

Any advice and criticisms are greatly appreciated.

hi, i'm looking for a speaker in a small boombox. i have came up with this 2 drivers-->

kartesian sub 120 with 6,5 mm Xmax , 53,5cm2 cone erea and happy in 1,7 liter
purify ptt4.0 with 8,5 mm xmax, 56,7cm2 cone erea and happy in 2,55 liter



both speakers are in a 4,2 liter enclosure tuned to 42 hz. the kartesian can handle 80 watt RMS vs 60 watt RMS of the purify. both are given the same wattage and the kartesian can play louder below 50 hz ( not noticable but everything counts in this project ) and cost about 90 bucks ( euro ) vs 300 bucks of the purify 4.0

kartesian is my choice between this 2 drivers but i'm curious if there is a slightly better 4 inch driver or something wich is happy in a 2 liter enclosure and has even better power handling and xmax. i don't think so but i'm just curious if people on this forum maybe know about some driver... thanks!!

SOLD : The tweeters sold and the mid-bass drivers sold so now the big woofers need to go.

I am giving up the dream of build my own home theater speakers. Just will not be able to find the time.

I have 2 of these for sale for $400 each, never used, only taken out of the packaging for inspecting them when they arrived and to take pictures.

The plan was to have 2 (isobaric) of these in a smallish (for a sub) box with 2 Acoustic Elegance passive radiators.

Will add the driver pictures tomorrow.

Here is a new version of the Altec N1201-8A crossover for Altec 802+416 drivers combo but with the blue 511 horn.
It replaces the GreatPlainsAudio version of the Model 19 crossover which is not up to what the drivers can deliver. I haven't heard the original M19 crossover but I thought that lowering the DCR of the main 2.5mH low freq coil would improve things in the low freq department, particularly driving the speakers with the ACA mini or the sony Vfet amps. I used Solen coils, Jentzen, Clarity and Audyn caps and mills rez. I went with fixed Mills instead of the rotary attenuators, I bought a set of res and I can swap in different values of res until I am satisfied. I followed some of the humble homemade hifi page caps ratings without breaking the bank.
Sonically, the new crossover has produced huge plus changes. It's like veil of crud has been vapor blasted from the music, some brittleness in the mid-highs is gone, I am hearing new musical details everywhere and much punchier, precise lows. Overall, I am amazed at the difffs. I don't think I can distinguish a 12 vs a 13.5 rated cap (HumbleHomeMadeHIFI page) but the distinction here are clear. Once the components are finalized I will and button everything down.
Super stoked! 😍

I'm planning to use 4 of these drivers to fill in below a pair of Danley SH50. I have 4 ch of Hypex UCD400ST(400W) amps that I would like to power them with, but this can of course be changed. Room size is ~3900ft^3(110m^3) and the SH50s are driven by a 20W/ch amp. Any cabinet suggestions?

BMS 18N862

Frode

I have a pair of partially built Hifisonix KX amplifier boards (version 1), semi’s are not included. Soldering is excellent and board has been extensively cleaned of flux. Untested of course. Best resource for finishing the build is this thread. Member Bonsai has committed himself to help all avid diy’ers with building his designs.

Price is: $OLD/pair including shipping in USA (which is a bargain! given the cost of parts). International buyers welcome but shipping costs are more.

PayPal preferred.

Best,
Anand.

I recently built a pair of Pensil 10.2 speakers. Since there was zero MDF available anywhere and all the plywood I looked at was for sheathing, I found some 1/2" Bamboo Plywood at Lowes that looked great and was $20 for a 2'X4' sheet. I bought one sheet and took it to my shop to test it. Extremely rigid. A 4' X 12" piece had about half the deflection of 1/2 plugged and sanded plywood and about a 1/4 of the deflection of 3/4" MDF. So I built the speaker and sonically they are fantastic.
Today is a beautiful day here in New England and I figured I'd sand them and round over the edges for paint.
Not so fast Cowboy! This Bamboo plywood hates to be sanded. When you do,. tiny fibers jump out of the surface and are impossible to sand away. They are so small I figured they would lay down with the primer or I'd have to burn them off.
Next was the router to round over the edges.
This is not my first rodeo working with wood. I owned a fine cabinet shop for years. Built much of the furniture in my house. Built a number of wooden boats and cedar strip canoes over the years. If I might brag, I'm a pretty good woodworker.
So I set my router up to round over the edges. Remember those fibers? They wrap around the router bit and tear the bamboo veneer off!!!
And the routed edge itself is very rough. No amount of sanding really brings it smooth.
What a mess! Now I have two options.....Rebuild with quality (expensive) baltic birch or veneer these cabinets. I'm leaning towards surface planning a bunch of walnut or mahogany I have to 1/4" and covering them with it. Or carpet them......
Regardless, be careful if you find some of this Bamboo Plywood and think you will be able to finish it like a good Baltic Birch or some other substrate.

Hello everyone,

I need advice regarding active crossover for my little project. Currently I use small 2 way DIY little bookshelf that I really like and now I want to add a small subwoofer to extend the low of my little bookshelf. Searching in the net and seems like the most favorite type is LR 4th order, so my plan is build that but only for LPF, the output to my bookshelf I'd like to keep full range, is that OK?

I already make quick sim using TI Tina and I attached the schematic, any suggestion, critics and advice will be really appreciated.

Just wondering how do you guy’s categorise yourselves? Would you describe yourself as an enthusiast or a audiophile? Or something else?
Me, I think my enjoyment of music has changed, I used to be more critical of the system that I was listening too, but lately I find myself enjoying the music more for pleasure, casually listening now, no longer searching for that perfect sound.
My ears are not as good as they used to be so my sensory awareness is not as it was, poor quality inaccurate audio systems are still annoying to me, but also high resolution audio files much less important to me now. I guess then now I’m more audio enthusiast than ‘phile’?
There will always be much better audio components available than I have, but do I really need something better than my current favourite equipment?
I guess it’s the same with construction, do I really need those high end boutique components that I used to buy? Probably not anymore. Thoughts?

I have a Rogue Model 88 Magnum where I tried to repair and ruined the circuit board. I had this amp for a long time and had several problems over the years so instead of trying to sell it as is, I decides to tear it down and part with the parts. I have three transformers, eight gold plated tube sockets and various capacitor, resistors and such. I'm not trying to make any money off my FU but can't bring myself to just throw this stuff in the trash.
Any suggestions? Sell? Keep and build another amp using the parts? I'd appreciate any suggestions.
Thanks

Hello... I have a memory retention issue with this unit. It will not retain the programing from the previous set-up.
The unit is always in the Standby mode. Once the the programing is reset, the unit works fine until it is placed into Standby.
I am having a hard time locating a service manual with schematics (Even from Rotel).
I'm hoping there might be an issue with a backup memory cap. or battery. (Standby power supply?)
I searched thru a RSP-1068 manual for the likes but could not find anything (usually 5.5 or 3.3V).

Any help will be appreciated.

Thanks, Bill

Hi, I have a pair of ADS L810s from around 1982. They still work fine. Does anyone sell a crossover PCB replacement? I think it would be easier than re-capping for a better sound.

I have come across some Dynaudio drivers from an old volvo. four 10 inch midwoofers, two 3 inch dome mid and four 28mm dome tweeters.
The most similar drivers i could find was
(10") Dynaudio esotec mw182
(3") Dynaudio esotec md142
(tweeters) Dynaudio esotec md102

I was planning to build something unique with the drivers because i already have good speakers that will not be replaced. So i was thinking of building something "out of the box" like a super slim U shaped open baffle bookshelf speaker with the 10s at the sides with an open back and a extra rear fireing tweeter. Or if there would be to many drawbacks with the U shaped baffle maybe i could use hinges so i could fold out the baffles.

The goal of this build is not to get the best sound possible but simply to get something different (and compact).

I would love to hear some different new ideas (go crazy) and thoughs on different possible builds.

Some relevant information
I have a powerful 2 ohm capable amp and a subwoofer thats collecting dust that can be used.

I'm posting this for those that may not see it in the old Pioneer PDR-555RW CD recorder thread where we're trying to poke through corroded through-holes on a two sided board around a leaking super cap. I feel like someone has already came up with the solution, but I'm posting it for those that may not have thought of it.
This works best as a "free" hack if you already own a dremel style tool. You may be able to do it with a small drill. Take a standard resisitor. Clips both wire leads to about 1/2". I put an angle on the cuts. Insert the body of the resistor into you drill's chuck and tighten. I use it on the slowest dremel speed setting. You may have to tweak the tip slightly if it isn't perfectly centered. It works incredibly fast. Don't press too hard or you'll bend the lead. If it does bend, flip the resistor around in the chuck and use the other lead.

I just (well, almost) finished a pair of LSMini-inspired speakers and wanted to share. There are lots of details on this blog, but I'll post some highlights here.

The goal was basically the performance of the Linkwitz LXMini in a different package. The drivers and most of the critical dimensions are the same, with a sealed box replacing the sealed vertical pipe:



The radius along the front matches the woofer mount that Linkwitz used. The dimensions and placement of the horizontal diffuser match the original PVC pipe as well. The interior volume matches that of the original vertical pipe and will receive the same amount of Acousta-Stuff stuffing, plus wool felt lining on the bottom half.

The substantive differences are

• The box replacing the tube. Though Linkwitz called the heavily stuffed tube an infinite transmission line, I reasoned that a sufficiently stiff, reflection-free box should be equivalent. I considered designing the interior of the box as a folded transmission line but decided that, with the intent that there be no back reflection, this would make little or no difference.
• While the curve along the front matches the radius of the Linkwitz woofer mount, it has less of a teardrop shape. The radius continues a bit more than halfway around rather than 2/3 of the way as in the original. In his commentary on the design, Linkwitz noted that baffle effects would be heard only from above, so I'm trusting that any differences here will be subtle.
• The larger surface area of the sealed box, and flattish sides and top, could radiate some sound. Here, I'm depending upon the stiffness of material and the reinforcing.

For ease (relatively speaking) of making the shapes, and because the aesthetics were attractive (a matter of taste), I chose translam construction with Baltic Birch.

Some highlights from the build follow...

Could someone share info about best match integrated amplifier tube or SS or D class which match with MAOP10 driver.

I am trying to find out how much amperage would be required to run 7 125asx2 btl modules. I plugged in the amp to a Killawatt meter with 2 modules and it shows less than 1 amp when I turned up until the bass notes were clipping on my Xilica xp4080...which I find strange. I need to know as I want to use my Russound ACT-1 to turn on and off the 7 channels and it is only rated for 10amps (which I would think would be what I need or evan more for 7 amps).

Hi
Thank you to all those that answered my questions regarding my Alpha One amp needing a replacement pot.

I think I will run out of time before I manage to find a physical replacement. I have some cleaner coming in the post, but I appreciate that may only be a temporary fix. So it has me thinking about an upgrade.

Until recently I was fairly happy with the sound of my old system, Pioneer PDS904 CD, IXOS 1002 interconnects, Alpha one amp, Cable Talk 3.1 speaker cable and some speakers that I made from a kit sometime in the late 1980s.

The speakers have seen better days though, they are 27cm x 27cm x 48cm and my wife hates them 😉 So I recently saw a pair of Wharfdale Diamond 9.1 going locally for £70 with stands. That is much cheaper than I have seen on before, so I snapped them. When I connected them through my amp had lost a channel, after some back and forth on the volume, the sound came back, but other issues have stopped me from properly testing. My initial thought was that the Diamonds sounded very clear but had less bass than my old homemade units.

I do like to 'repair and re-use' and buy local when possible, but repairing the Alpha One seemed a lot of hassle for what was, as I remember, the budget end of the Alpha range. So I have been wondering about buying a better quality second-hand amp, (noting what other have said about having the same problems) that if it fails in the near future would be more feasible and worthwhile to repair.

Arcam seems renowned for it's warm sound that I have previously enjoyed. There are working Alpha 8 amps in my price range, but then they obviously do have the potential potentiometer problems. Alternatively, I have seen good things written about the sound quality and ability to repair Cyrus amps, but then some say the sound is almost the other end of the spectrum to Arcam stuff?

Just wondering what people's opinions are? I live about an hours drive from the nearest cyrus dealer, so getting them to listen is not easy.

Thank you for any opinions given and the time taken to answer. It is much appreciated.

Hi,

I'm selling a Pearl 2 clone made with the gerber files found on the Pearl 2 thread.

I'm using 2x 2sk209gr instead of 2SK170bl soldered on little adaptators I made, ZTX450 by BC550C. Wima MKP for film cap, output cap is a Nichicon Muse ES. You can choose between 45dB or 55dB gain with a jumper you remove inside. Rx and Cx can easily be installed without soldering. Every Voltages are ok.
PSU in separated box on PCB I made too, 2x25V tranny 50VA, CRCRC with 10 x 3300µF Panasonic. Boxes are Galaxy GX 248 (40x230x280)...
350€ + shipping EU only (about 40€ for Europe and 20€ for France)

And another Pearl 2 clone. The same as bottom but in one box GX 348 (40x330x280). PSU ans circuits are separated by 3mm steel...
320€ + shipping EU only (about 40€ for Europe and 20€ for France)

I can't ear on both, no noise or hum, even in the second one with my system (Lenco L75S stock, Acutex 412str, IronPre, Vfet lotery Pt2 and JMlab DB19 (92dB) )

Pictures laters but you can see them here and here if you can't wait 😉

Thanks for reading

Damien

I've been using a Raspi as my source for a while now. Had a DAC HAT earlier, then got a Allo digione. Then added a Soekris. The Bahringer DEQ2496 made it's entry a bit later, all of which is to say that I ended up with a medley of boxes and wires - which made sense only to me. Zero WAF, to be honest, it was zero Anybody Acceptance Factor.
So, earlier this year, I decided to put everything into a cabinet. In addition, had seen some streaming source solutions, and thought their LCD screens displaying album art looked very attractive. I think there are special albums released with amazing album art just to make these products look good......

So here is all that needed to fit into the cabinet:

• Raspi + Allo digione
• Soekris R2R DAC
• Soekris I/O board (Normunds) with source selector and LED indicators
• PGA2311 volume control board with analog input selector and volume control
• 1 power supply for the analog board (just transformer)
• 1 power supply for the Soekris (DiyInHK)
• 1 power supply for the Raspi+Soekris I/O board + LCD (Sigma 11)

I also wanted to be able to shutdown the RPi gracefully when the front panel power switch was pressed. So I incorporated a delay circuit that maintains power to the RPi for 1 1/2 minutes, when power to the rest of the boards are turned off - the loss of power also triggers a GPIO shutdown in the Pi.
The Pi runs picoreplayer + LMS + squeezelite + jivelite. LCD is Waveshare 5" touchscreen.

End result below

I began clean out my storage contain and discovered many items that I forgot I had. So much for being in audio since the 1970's LOL. I found a PS Model 1 with an attached note that indicated it needed love. When I asked Paul about this a few years ago, I got his standard " I cannot remember". I guess it will be the same with the Model 2's and 200c that I also discovered. Hey, I lived through the 70's as well, and can actually remember what I did back then LOL...

I like DACs powered directly from USB in small case/design and I like sound based on R-2R. This was reason why this toy was created.

Here in gallery are pictures: DAC gallery

Once again small description:

• NOS R-2R AD1862 DAC
• LINE-out direct from I/V
• headphone out based on TPA6120A2 with potentiometer, easily drives big headphones with a lot of power (AKG K701)
• no additional filters (only RC)
• no caps in series with signal line
• switch between line or headphones (no need unplug something when I choose between headphones or amp), with relays
• for USB/I2S conversion is used PCM2706 (on board are also pins for another I2S), simplicity, no additional drivers, I like Plug&Play and I am listening mostly in 16bits
• power from usb is converted with isolated DC-DC DCP0205xx, regulated to +-5V for digital and AD1862 digital, +-12V for AD1862 analog and I/V, +-5V for headphones amp TPA6120A2
• it can handle custom I/V boards in small design, +-12V
• 4 layers board

I am not sure if it is DIY project, becase it is full of small 0805 SMD parts and few SMD ICs, board is 4-layers

Some build hints:

• first mount USB/i2s part and test with scope if some data signals are going out from i2s
• continue with power supply part and test, if all voltages are right
• dont forget for thermal pad holes
• mount DAC portion with relay, switch and I/V
• connect it to PC and measure with scope if sine is right (or test sound directly), because in this state it must working
• if all is right, mount headphones amp part, better if you buy 3 potentetiometers and measure them for resistance offset (left and right) in few places and choose best one (with lowest offset), dont forget carefully solder TPA6120 through thermal pad hole
• connect it to PC and measure dc offset on headphones connector, it must be small offset, about few mV
• if you wish, you can clean board from solder resin using isopropyl alcohol
• I used SMD thick resistors
• as I/V opamp choose something good, like LM6171, LME49990, ADA4898-1, and many others ...
• if you use external USB/I2S (for example asynchronous XMOS) resistors R6, R7, R8 can be disconnected and also PCM2706 power jumper opened ... on board are pins for I2S https://ctrlv.cz/shots/2017/09/19/DGlu.png
• output voltages can be easily set with change in feedback resistors R9,R10, or for headphones in gain R17+R18, R21+R22
• when you use fast I/V opamp, like AD844, only to be sure - check output for oscillations, I have no oscillations
• only to mention, here is no headphones protection circuit, so after every change in I/V measure headphones output if there is not big DC offset, must be few mV
• in normal condition, there is no clunking in headphones when switch position is changed or device is disconnected
• use linear potentiometer (if there is a link for logarithmic, use linear)

I need thanks to pavouk.org site from where I got I2S/PCM logic and thanks to Dohny for hint about DCP0205xx DC-DC.

Hi - I'm considering using an existing chassis for a new build. With the valve holes already cut I need to consider using a 9-pin noval double triode as driver or driver/phase splitter for a 6AS7 to provide a PP output. I would normally use a 6SN7, however that's an octal base big valve. I've read that an E88CC is a sort of 6SN7 equivalent but would love to hear suggestions, especially from people who've done this.

Final question, is a 6SN7 a good choice for the pre-amp stage? I would look to use a single 6SN7 to provide L and R channel pre-amp, to then feed the noval phase splitter/driver, in turn driving a single 6AS7 for a PP configuration.

I know it all sounds a bit a$$-backwards, hence some sanity checking.

Thanks in advance!

I like this stuff, but what Id like to know and havent been able to find out, is whether it sticks to PVA glue?

Ive got some cabinets to paint which have been previously stained. I dont really want to go down the route of sanding off all the wood stain if warnex wont stick to it. I have a suspicion it may not (just to be annoying) since it's definitely a bit funny about sticking to the wood filler I've been using.

I either have to PVA the cabinet first and then paint with warnex, or I have to sand the entire thing first and then paint. I'd rather go down the PVA route since sanding is tedious but if warnex is funny about sticking to PVA I may be forced to sand them.

All,
I am planning to build Eli Duttman's Phono Preamp, which is, as I understand it, an update and modification of the classic RCA phono preamp. I already have many of the parts from when I purchased parts to build RJM's 6dj8 phono (does everyone else always buy a few extras?), but I have a few questions before putting in a final order. I would be grateful for any advice and help in clarifying:

• Are there any suitable substitutes for the ZVN0545A Mosfet? I'm not seeing any in stock at Mouser, Digikey, etc. I could search for alternate devices, but I just don't know what characteristics are necessary (polarity, Vds, Id, Vgs, etc.?)
• It looks to me like there are 2 coupling capacitors on the output -- one at 0.47uf and one at 5uf. Is that correct? I don't think I've seen that before. Could anyone help me understand why it's done this way in this amp?
• How critical are the values of 30uf of the capacitors connected to the B+? Would 32uf be ok? I see Parts Express has a cheap electrolytic can capacitor w/ two 32uf caps inside. Would that work? Is using a electrolytic here a bad idea? Also, would it be OK to use one of these capacitors on the cathodes of the first triode stages?
  • Generally, I'm not sure where and when to use the different types of capacitors (electrolytic, film, polypropylene, paper in oil, etc.) and where it makes sense to spend a bit more money. I would be grateful if anyone could point me in the direction of some useful readings on the matter. My initial searches didn't find much.

Thanks in advance for your help!
Best,
Dan

THD Out=5Vmax 10Vpp F=1.6KHz
------------------------------------------
Output ---- 0° - 0,000 004%
Output -- 90° - 0,000 011%
Output - 180° - 0,000 022%
Output - 270° - 0,000 011%

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Hi all,

Recently I revisited a mini-aleph I put together years ago from a BrianGT set of boards. Anyway to cut a long story short, after a few bits of fixing up I was pretty amazed at how good the amp sounded. It got me thinking about what would a higher powered version sound like, and so I began on a journey of reading and finding the parts needed to build an Aleph 60. I managed to get a few BrianGT boards (thank you to those who searched their parts bins), plus the extra output boards and I have most parts now to assemble it. So there is a monumental amount of Aleph info out there, and its all jumbled in a million different threads, which makes it hard to find some answers - so I'm being cheeky and asking here some fairly basic questions which I'm hoping someone who has lived and breathed the aleph air can probably answer in their sleep:

1. I plan to build with 2 separate supplies in a 5U modushop chassis and bias it to stay just below 60degC.....
2. I have 2 of 2x25V 300va transformers lined up, and planned on using a pair of cap multipliers as supplies (planning on the mark johnson/prasi boards with 2sc5200/2sa1943 and the minimum possible voltage drop, about 2.5V I think to minimise dissipation). If the cap-mx doesn't work out, I have regular CRC boards I can use.
3. I think I can use the BrianGT mini-aleph boards with pretty much no changes on the main boards, and then just add the satellite boards populated with the matched mosfets (irf240) and 1r0 source resistors.

Does this sound correct to the experts here?

I decided to recap and install new binder posts in a pair of vintage Rectilinear speakers. I discovered one of the tweeter control potentiometers is shot (corrosion and evidence it overheated some time in the past).

I need help identifying appropriate replacements. While there is a lot of information on capacitor replacement, I am finding very little on this topic.

The current version appears to be 32 Ohm version. It's marked AM-3352 32Ω 137 7207 on the back. No indication or wattage. I assume it's an audio taper but, again, nothing obvious.

Finding no options available at 32 Ohms. Most start at 1K and progress to 5K, 10K, 100K, etc. 250K 500K seem typical for guitar tone controls. Closest I seem to be able to find new are either 25 or 100 Ohm in the 3 to 5 Watt range. I also have some old pots out of other speakers that measure at 16Ω, but no idea re watt limit.

I'm assuming I need audio taper and not linear taper, but don't seem to find any. How close do I need to be to the 32Ω of the original? How much impact will higher (100Ω) or lower (16Ω or 25Ω) values have on sound? Do I need to be concerned about Watts in this application. Are their other options/suggestions? Any recommended sources?

Im a noob and looking to build some growling bass horns for myself, hoping to bring some good vibes to the world as this covid thing lifts.

I used to have a double stack of martin 115B bass bins and matching tops.. Looking for that sound again in a modern smaller more efficient package.

Someone on speaker plans recomended the punisher mkII..But I cant seem to find a frequency response plot to back up the 50-200hz claims or to see how flat it is. Does anyone have this Frequncy respose plot data??


Does any one have more info on this design? Or can they direct me to the designer ? Is this design dependent on a high end expensive speaker to get the enclosure to preform? Seems like slim pickings on info....

Im also open to recommendations on other cabs that will bring that horn dub growl in a modern package

Thanks folks!

Good morning everyone ! Can you recommend a thd meter that has the same functions as the 2015 keithley from other brands?

Hello guys! I removed the input switch selector to clean it from a Cyrus One issue 07, and now if I have a source for example in aux and I switch to other sources it have sound but at a lower volume. Any ideeas? I took a picture before removing the switch
https://ibb.co/60h3fHc
https://ibb.co/z7xQrTM

Hi,

I'm thinking to dedicate one room as amp building/modding and rehersal, and I had an idea on how to place a pair of speakers to hear music.

Imagine one corner of the room and place a single wooden board at 45° with gaskets on its sides: isn't it a TL with triangular shape and the lenght of the floor-to-ceiling height? Will it work?

If it works, with straight walls it would be quite simple to be built.
With 90° walls and 45° baffle, the section of the "cabinet" will be the baffle width squared and divided by 4.

Ceiling is 273 cm, that it's a quarter wavelenght of 31 Hz, so that should be the Fs of the speaker, correct?

Is there a full range, cheap speaker that can fit the requirements?
It will be something I would like to play with during the winter, to be able to build it in 2022.

Thank you in advance,
Kind Regards

I have a Sony VFET built using the boards from the Store. I'm using SK60/SJ18 instead of the originals. Bias is .5A (half the amount of the original version). All is well and it's been working fine for about a year. It runs extremely cool. I've read a couple times that the K60/J18 like a 16 ohm load better. Most recently Nelson mentions this in the article for the upcoming VFET kits for this who already have VFETS. Should I consider some sort of modification to this amp to take advantage of this load characteristic?

I have decided not to have my designs made into PCBs in China. So I am looking for an alternative low cost source of PCB fabrication.

Cheers

Ian

Dear All,
I´m building a 3-way speaker with mid range and tweeter path based on seperate LM3886 (XO at 240 and 3700 Hz)
Would it make sense or do any good (stability, ...) to limit the bandwidth of the amps or is this even negative and better to run them in full range?
THX for any thoughts!
Best, Josef

Manual says to adjust at 1/4W output to 0.1% THD. I do have an analyser, but seems a flaky way to set bias.

Anyone here got some experiance with these? Perhaps a suggestion on an actual bias current...?

(tempted to set it for abour 25-30mA and assume it's in the ballpark)

Most information on distance has to do with air core inductors. The little information on iron core I've seen is conflicting, so I'm hoping for a consensus here.

Specifically, for an ERSE Super Q 2.7mH laminated iron core inductor and Altec 416 woofer with flux density of 11,000 gauss, what would the recommended distance be between them?

I'm a simple DIY'er with very limited electrical measuring tools, so thanks for the help.

Hi All,


I have a Carvin TS100 that I swapped over to JJ 6l6GC's and I'm using it with my Axe FX III guitar modeler.

I biased according to the instructions but at 50mA per side (there's 4 power tubes) it seems very cold.

I have 468vdc B+, so 50mA's is about 55% bias point.

I'm not sure why Carvin wants this so low and my only assumption is to prevent any distortion or addition coloring of sound.

So should the bias be set higher?

2nd question.....although there is nothing wrong with the current fan which is 80x80x25 dc24v, I'd like to find a replacement that's quieter, and has better cooling.

thanks,
dinky

Long story short, amp started pulsing the output loudly while I was listening to a podcast at low volume wired at 4 ohms.

took it to my test bench and found the ka7500 had a bad output, almost all irfp 064n's exploded along with the relative gate resistors, I replaced the ka7500 with an lm494, replaced the 064n's with 064npbf, replaced all gate and pulldown resistors, replaced all resistors in the drive buffer circuit and have changed buffer drivers from c3228/a1275 to bd139's and bd140's.

Upon testing with a variable power supply at 10v everything appears to work fine so far, however with a 4 ohm mid connected for testing there is a faint white noise coming from the output? it's loud enough that you can feel it with your hand on the speaker, could also hear it up to a foot away, The only thing that makes it louder or softer is voltage input, gain doesn't effect it, also
during power down there is also a fast 1 second audible sweep from high to low.

Scoping my variable supply doesn't show any noise, so I doubt it's that, idle current at 10v settles at 2a which seems a little high right? It goes up when I raise voltage.

All transistors input and output did not make any heat on the test bench, the only thing that got a little warm was the power supply transformers.

Anyways how would I go about finding the source of this white noise? It is rather annoying and I don't remember this amp doing that.

I'll try to post an audio file when I get home

Hope it's OK to post that here.

Im looking at one thats for sale on another site. I know they're really good, but have no clue on whats a fair price. It has the optical bias. I did some searching but a lot of the sales were from many years ago, so price probably changed.

Physically looks great.

This is an Extreme Low noise core, slim designed - compact transformer.
Potted winding with flux shield.
Can ship to International destinations.
Height - 4cm
Diameter - 12.5cm
Weight - 2.2kg
Price - $165

Specs sheet also attached with clear images
contact cpg@rfwaves.com.au for further information
Now in stock!

This is to redirect the following posts (15, 16 and 17) to prevent contaminating another thread.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/kicker-06-zx750-1.383505/post-6972814

Post with attachments:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/kicker-06-zx750-1.383505/post-6973521

The templates will help you compile notes in a fairly standardized way and will be valuable in future repairs as a reference. I generally just wrote the values and notes in by hand but doing so in the XLS spreadsheet file is better (especially if your handwriting is as bad as mine).

For those who don't have the Microsoft office suite, you can download (for free) Open Office.
https://www.openoffice.org/download/

To minimize the required hard drive space used. Only install the applications you need. 'Calc' is to read/produce spreadsheets. Writer is a text editor.
https://www.openoffice.org/download/

As for photos, everyone should be taking photos of the amps they're repairing. The photos are another great reference to find the values of missing and burned parts. The photos need to be of high enough resolution to read the values and markings of the parts. Take photos from multiple angles and pay special attention to driver boards. Attached is an example.

The text documents can be notes or key components that help me find all relevant files. This one only has 6n137 but if I want all files with information on amps that use the 6n137 (specific design), the text file (or any file that WIndows will read and cache) will be returned.

The .ods file attached is an editable template (remove values and rename). You'll need to make whatever works best for for you. At the bottom of the file, you can see a note about the ground. For some amps, you'll find that the primary and secondary grounds are not connected. For those, you can either move your ground probe/clip or install a jumper between them. This is just a reminder.

Musical frequencies as in music sounds very staticky ,garbled but I can tone generate up and down thru the frequencies and it sounds very clear and I don’t have the connex switches. I think I’m missing some components .c-13, c-14, R-32, R-33?
Thank you

03/20/22 Update- SOLD.

For sale: Adelphos Satori MTM Speaker Kit by Jeff Bagby, with Parts Express 1.0 cu ft curved cabinets in cherry finish. Featuring the Satori TW29R tweeter and MW16P midbass. I bought the full kit with upgraded, assembled crossovers from Meniscus Audio. And several extra feet of the Meniscus upgrade wire. Unfortunately I just have not gotten to assemble this and by now need to clear out space. It stalled at routing the baffle cutouts due to lower back issues (not getting any younger- sigh).

https://meniscusaudio.com/product/adelphos-mtm-speaker-kit/

The cabinets are these: https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-MTMC-1.0BK-1.0-ft-MTM-Curved-Cabinet-Gloss-Bla-302-751

Looks like PE no longer does these in the cherry. I also used same (in black) for the Dr K MTM kit I built years ago. They're great for DIY IMO.

These kits start at $491.37 x 2 = $983 lately. As mentioned, mine is the full kit with crossover upgrades, extra wire, plus new curved cabinets in the original boxes.

-I'll do $695 for everything, includes Fedex shipping lower US 48.

Pictures of the actual stuff coming soon; meanwhile information at the link above and the project pdf attached.

The Dr K MTM is a great sounding speaker, if driven cleanly. It compares very favorably to the excellent Concept 500's I have, believe it or not. It was way too transparent for its own good in most cases though as the PE reference alum drivers were ruthlessly transparent. In similar fashion, I have no doubt the Satori MTM kit likely sounds excellent. Wish I could have heard it..

For those asking privately the speaker would be flat front, not slanted like the Kairos. It would look similar to the Dr K MTM in this link except of course Satori drivers and cherry cabs: http://projectgallery.parts-express.com/speaker-projects/dr-ks-mtm/

I was using the Dr K on a heavy duty wood stand of appropriate height made for me by Vapor Audio, if anyone remembers them 🙂 Speaking of, I guess those could go too. Not a good picture but there's the Dr K MTM on the Vapor stand, next to the C500 recently. And I have another set of wooden stands, nib and not assembled yet; can choose a custom height. Forgive the clutter please, I do N America service for a couple of high end audio companies lately and the audio setup is always in flux.

Thanks, T

Hei.
im trying to reverse engineering this black box preamp driver for elac speaker.
Its has 8 pins and has a predriver circuit.
I been cutting it out and tried identify all transistors and resistors and one cap.
my problem now is that's something is wrong, i got a circuit board mounted temporarily on a pcb with the components, but it draws way too much current, and its humming a lot.....
there could not be a major error, but i attach the spice model, to see if someone can maybe identify some errors. ?

as you see, in the spice file, i have made the box and outside its the rest of the circuit.
best regards Niklas.

Hi. My old Nad 314 has some channel problems, it seems the speaker relay needs changing. While I am at it, I was thinking to change all the electrolytic capacitors, the amp was sitting idle for about 8 years. There are 38 caps on Preamp + Power Amplifier which I am thinking to replace with caps of same voltage and capacitance, a mix of Elna Silmic II, Nichicon KA και Nichicon FG (I can’t find the same model for all on Mouser).

In the Power Supply there are 16 caps, many people suggest that bigger caps in V and uF are used, so I’m thinking of changing the originals with a mix of (available on Mouser) caps as below:

10V 22uF ---> 16V 27uF Nichicon PW
25V 10000uF ---> 35V 12000uF Cornell Dubilier
50V 100uF ---> 63V 120uF Nichicon HE
50V 10000uF ---> 63V 12000uF Cornell Dubilier
100V 4.7uF ---> 150V 6.8uF Vishay
100V 47uF ---> 100V 47uF Nichicon HE
100V 680uF ---> 160V 680uF Cornell Dubilier

Do you think it’s better to stick with the original values or increase them? Does the above list seems ok to you? Something else I am not entirely sure is that some of these larger caps replacements I have found are snap-in types, how can I check if the originals are of the same type? Thank you.

Got this amp in for repair and someone has been in it before .

Antone have any ideas on what U2and U3 are ?

Winding up on my first speaker build. For anyone that has built these, i have a couple of questions.

1)Did you use the foam damping?
2)Should i use the adhesive foam under the circuit board before i snap it on the provided posts?

Thanks
Paul

are there plans out there for shallow, full range, sealed bookshelf speakers?

or am I hoping for something that is currently unobtanium?

I'm looking for something to hang on the walls of my small bedroom. I'm not sure what this room was before the reno that closed in the carport and added many more rooms to the basement, but was 9' wide and 11' long before the added a 3' x 6' closed closet in one corner, so I have next to no room for anything beyond mt twin bed, dresser and chair to sit n listen to my headphones in. listening to then would be when lying down reading n winding down for the day.

also some back story on me to help you understand why I will likely be infuriating at some point while being totally unintentional.

I'm not sure how weird this is, but due to injuries survived almost 25 years ago my brain no longer works like most. I share this as I need to start at the very end and work myself back to the beginning to learn something. this can be frustrating for many helping me as it essentially means I need to be told exactly what I need for a solution and then experience the rule's / law's that need to be understood and worked with to be successful. it's frustrating for me because thus inevitably makes learning something take longer than usual. it's also a pain in the *** because I'm financially of smaller means. not destitute, no debt, but still living check to check.

yes, it does mean that project will be more expensive than it needs to be, but that is the curse I live with after crashing my mountain bike while bombing down a hill and crashing at 45mph. I remember nothing of it, only what I must cope with and overcome since I regained consciousness 2 weeks later.

lastly I'm clumsy n have hands full if thumbs...but fortunately have a patient son in law who is clumsy, but very capable hands that take joy working with wood.

oh, I'm 43, smart yet stupid, live in Canuckistan and pleased to meet you all! 😀

Hi all,

I need some attentuation between my MiniDSP 10x10 and 3eAudio TPA3251 (4 channel) amp. The MiniDSP is very noisy and the drivers in my active setup are sensitive (10" pro driver and compression driver). I have my MiniDSP going balanced straight in to the TPA chip bypassing the onboard op-amps. MiniDSP is fed by SPDIF. The amp is dead quiet.

The MiniDSP input gains are down 18db, I have a 10db L-pad on my compression drivers and yet I still have my windows volume level hovering between 10%-30%. Something must give.

I would like to put some passive attenution on the balanced line betwen MiniDSP and amp and having read everything I could find here would someone mind looking over my sums, please?

MiniDSP output = 560 ohms
10db attenuation K factor = 3.16
Rshunt = 560ohms
Rseries = 560 * (K-1) 2.16 = 1209 ohms
Rseries/2 = 604.5 ohms



R1/2 ≈ 600 ohms
R2 = 560 ohms

I plan on using 1w metal film resistors.

Cheers! 🙂

i want to build open baffle with two full range speakers and i want to know the difference between parallel connection and bi wired connection .Two 8ohms drivers in parallel give 4 ohms is it the same if i bi wire them.The speakers are Lii audio F15 and fast 8.Thanks

Maybe someone can help me out here. I've been building my Icepower amp, https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/why-do-i-have-56v-on-my-vdrive.383620/latest and things have been going pretty good. I've got it up and running but I noticed today that while I was watching a video on youtube that was all dialog so the woofers where hardly moving, that from time to time the woofer cone would either push out or pull back in unrelated to the video. It did this kind of slow and didn't make any noise but it is acting like a speaker does when you put a 9 volt battery to it'd terminals it either goes in or out so I am assuming it has to be DC that is getting to the speaker. Does anyone know what might be causing this to happen? All of the specs for the amp are at the link above on the other thread if you need to know. It has me concerned because I know it shouldn't be doing that. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.

It was love at first sight

When I first saw the Autograph's enclosure at http://users.bigpond.com/tunnelgap/Tannoy/autograph.html

it really made my juices flow. Then, when I began to understand the principle behind (and before) them, I simply was captivated. I had to make them mine!

And now I built my first Autograph:

I've been trying to identify the source of a popping noise in one channel when the amp is idle. It appears to be mostly positive excursions that last around 1ms or less and are about 1V on an unloaded output. The amp has a jfet input using 2SK170/2SJ74 put those are difficult to find so I have not swapped them out. I've replaced the 2SC2240 and 2SA970 in the differential pair with KSC1845 / KSA992 and the issue continues.

Power rails seem ok and I've tested the caps on the differential section which is regulated. I believe that it is either heat or voltage related as the issue happens more often as the rails approach the 60v limit of my bench supply and it almost never happens in the first few seconds after applying power.

The amp is direct coupled so it is more difficult to isolate the stage that is causing this. I'm hoping to get some suggestions to track it down.

Hi everyone
Regardless of any other performance.
ES9018S refers max 135dB SNR in mono mode when all 8 channels are tied together. DSD1794 refers max 132dB SNR for 4 channels. I suppose both DACs are equal?

Hi guys
I’m new here and I’m looking for a new optical pick up laser for my CD.
Took it to the repair shop and said I need.a replacement and he can’t find anything, So any help locating it or fixing it would be much appreciated
Thanks Tong Tirone

Used once, years ago....
Gathering dust.
ECM8000 with has, mic stand mount and wind blocker.
Comes with MXL Mic Mate XLR to USB adapter.
Located in Kitchener ON
$75 shipped

https://www.avshop.ca/recording-audio-interfaces/mxl-mic-mate-classic-xlr-to-usb-adapter

https://cosmomusic.ca/products/behringer-ultra-linear-measurement-condenser-mic

Shouting anyone shouts, but shouting in tune like Wilson Pickett did is not easy ! Good soundstage too !

Just found this nice collection of driver measurements:

http://www.dibirama.altervista.org/le-prove.html
What I've found challenging with regards to driver measurements on the web is that measuring conditions are never the same, which makes it hard to do reasonable comparisons.
Here however, we have a huge collection of measurements all presumably done under the same conditions.

Looking through a large portion of the measurements, what stood out to me is how clean of a waterfall some metal cone drivers provide (up to breakup of course).
But despite this there seems to be a general preference of paper cone drivers in the industry.
Buchardt even changed from aluminum to paper cones in their latest speaker iterations.

Best offer, pickup in GTA.

Hey all,

some of this may have already been discussed, so apologies if this is the case and please just point me to the rejects discussion thread:

I’m in need for a decent tube preamp. Unfortunately my taste for music is very wide, ranging from classical to metal and anything in between, and I’m aware that some tube designs may lead them better for done music than for other music styles. Fortunately, if going the diy or Chinese modified stuff route, that should be cheaper than buying brand new well establish stuff.

My immediate thought goes to buying one of those 12ax7 12au7 units, also sometimes referred to as marantz 7 clones. They’re affordable and relatively easy to modify.

Other options include:
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mOTfK6M , which seems to be a triode based design, and could be a decware clone.


https://a.aliexpress.com/_mOTjWjO , which I’m completely unfamiliar with.


https://a.aliexpress.com/_msm2w3e , another one that has my interest.

I’m aware that some people consider these rather inferior, but as I’ve never build a tube amp before, and don’t have the skills to design one, I’m looking for some advice on what my options are.

Chinese stuff and play around with upgrades, or full diy?

thanks!

Long time ago I started this project, originaly with R2004 and MW16P, but after working on another projects and experience with T25B without WG, I decided to revive this project and update drivers to textreme and Be Bliesma.
I plan LR2 between woofer and mid at around 300Hz, and LR4 at ~2200Hz between mid and tweeter.
From already available measurements of TX from hificompass, and my measurements of T34B in larger WG, I have really high hopes in this driver combo and expect superb results, both measured and sonically. TX and T25B should be good sonic match but I am little bit afraid of Scan Speak and Satori combination, as I had already troubles to match 28W and MW19P. Ok, one never knows until it is tried and listened to.
Measurements will come soon, tweeter mounting adaptors are in progress.
So for now, at least some images of drivers in the cabinets.

Title mostly says it all. I am completely new as far as DIY audio is concerned, but I know my way around a soldering iron and can print my own PCBs. I am looking for a schematic for a great-sounding, class-A, single-ended MOSFET power amp, with preferably as few components as possible. Hope that someone here can help!

Helo friends it is simple but very complicated l just want to know that what is the purpose of these diodes in amplifier from negative to ground or positive to ground. or what are benefits by using this toplology??
Thanks..

Hardly used.

Hello,

After reading so much about this little driver did pull the trigger on 8 of them.


Goal is to build a WMMTMMW or WMMMMW + T beside configuration.

Bass would be SB20 with active filtering, drivers aligned for 90DB. No external sub.

Crossover W-M would be 160 to 200Hz


And crossover M-T could be:

around 2000Hz if MMTMM
around 4000Hz if MMMM and T beside, due to closer mid drivers (wanting to avoid comb filtering)


Side tweeter looks more appealing because 4000Hz gives more choice, and leaves a wide range to the TC9 for a more coherent sound

What would be the impact on imaging of not having the tweeter on same axis as other drivers ?


My experience so far is WAW (crossed between 80 and 160 depending on projects), mostly with Jordans.

Tweeter not selected yet, will depend on configuration.

Thanks for advise!
François


BTW did already simulate and all excursions are fine even at higher SPL than needed (measuring 85DB at 3 meters when watching rock concerts)

Hi all,

I currently have a pair of Event TR-6 bi-amped monitors and I am having a problem with one of them. As soon as I power the unit on, I hear a loud fuzz/static sound coming from both speakers. It does appear that the fuzz is louder from the tweeter, but that could be due to the nature of the fuzz (i.e. not much low freq. stuff).

When I run an audio signal to the unit at a normal level, if I listen closely (head next to speaker), I can barely hear the audio underneath the fuzz. It seems like it would be something in the signal path before the speakers and possibly before the amps.

I have tried swapping power and signal cables with the working unit, but it did not change anything.

One possible thing that may have caused this is electrostatic discharge. I noticed this problem for the first time after I felt a shock when I pushed on the power button.

Unfortunately, this problem started right after my warranty had expired. I know I could send the unit in for repair, but I fear that the cost of shipping plus the actual repair combined would be close to that of a new unit. That is why I would like to know if there is anything that I can do to repair the unit myself? I do have some background in electronics, so I would be comfortable if you could give me a starting point or have any ideas of what could be wrong based on experience.

I have contacted Event and they gave me the schematic (attached), but had no ideas for what could be wrong.

Thanks in advance for the help, I would love to get back to making music!

Please let me know if you have any questions for me.

Thanks again 🙂

Good day,

A long time ago I bought 60 pieces of the D3a 7721. The idea was to use them in a phono (RIAA) amplifier, and have more than enough spares, but I do not think this will ever happen. So I am putting 50 pieces of the them up for sale, the whole lot for 1250 Euros. Is that doable?

best regards, Erik

Hello,

Here is the V2 of my modular TDA1387 DAC, but even this one i dont consider released but a development version which is why im making this thread.
I'll then release the gerber files and anyone can make their own if they want to.


We're using PSU -> cap multiplier -> Jung superreg. For I2S, we have the JLsounds I2SoverUSB board.

Using 5 x 6 dacs in parallel in little towers, parallelisation averages the currents and improves SNR, but more importantly increases current, meaning we can get away with using a lower value passive resistor, The dac wants to see as close to 0R on its outputs. Also, we dont need further voltage amplification to line level, here i used a 51 ohm resistor.
There's footprints for pin 7 (VREF) decoupling caps but i dont hear a positive difference and some others practice this same method.

Im still troubleshooting some parts though, as simple as everything is i managed to muck it up apparently.
With 30 dacs, current is +-30mA. On 51R that should be almost 1.5v p-p, however on full volume i only get 30mA (what we should get with only one dac). So somehow we managed to break ohm's law here.

I also tried TDA1543 (non A, that one is EIAJ) since they are pin compatible and appear both are I2S. I have some NXP branded ones, but they dont seem to work at all, just get some white noise (although its volume changes slightly with what should be music playing, but its still pure white noise). I tried a lot of combinations according to the connection sheet like left and right justified and different word lengths, but all is the same, so i dont know if anyone else has experience with this..

The opamp I/V (passive and opamp I/V is switchable via jumper, for evaluation) also seems to have an inexplicable 1.75V of DC offset and sounds crunchy.
J5 selects what gets connected to the non inverting output. When used with +-15V (like i do), i connect it with GND. The other is just VCC/2 for single supplies.
The feedback resistor is low because there should be a lot of current so we dont need a lot of gain, after that there's the optional buffer (connect 3 and 2 on J7 and J8). Anyway problem happens before the buffer so it doesnt seem to be the issue. Its probably something really silly but i dont see it..



Best regards

Hey everyone, I am just a guy who has loved listening to music since a kid. I have a goal of assembling a system from component parts from a tried and proven design used by the community here which may sound as good as something several times it's price that I wouldn't be able to afford otherwise, whilst also be proud of building it and enjoy the process of doing so. Who knows, maybe it will turn out a hobby? I have dabbled into this idea a bit and even gotten intimidated because I can only describe myself as a guy who is a complete beginner but wants to DIY something that would rival a flagship system in a renowned Hifi gear maker's showroom. Anyone who has been there done that or wants to point me where to begin?

Trying to replace rectifier in my amp/dac. I came across the Germanium (SiGe) rectifier PMEG120G. Just wondering if anyone try it and compare it to say the schottky or the SIC schottky type.
Thanks.

The microphone need 48V 70mA(but I want to use minimum 2), sensitivity -48dB, self noise 5dB. So I think I need smaller than -137dB noise from power supply. 94-5=89; -48-89=-137

Does anyone have anything more about those amps other than it is written on their site....

http://www.asraudio.de/


thanks

regards
daniel