I have come across some Dynaudio drivers from an old volvo. four 10 inch midwoofers, two 3 inch dome mid and four 28mm dome tweeters.
The most similar drivers i could find was
(10") Dynaudio esotec mw182
(3") Dynaudio esotec md142
(tweeters) Dynaudio esotec md102
I was planning to build something unique with the drivers because i already have good speakers that will not be replaced. So i was thinking of building something "out of the box" like a super slim U shaped open baffle bookshelf speaker with the 10s at the sides with an open back and a extra rear fireing tweeter. Or if there would be to many drawbacks with the U shaped baffle maybe i could use hinges so i could fold out the baffles.
The goal of this build is not to get the best sound possible but simply to get something different (and compact).
I would love to hear some different new ideas (go crazy) and thoughs on different possible builds.
Some relevant information
I have a powerful 2 ohm capable amp and a subwoofer thats collecting dust that can be used.
The most similar drivers i could find was
(10") Dynaudio esotec mw182
(3") Dynaudio esotec md142
(tweeters) Dynaudio esotec md102
I was planning to build something unique with the drivers because i already have good speakers that will not be replaced. So i was thinking of building something "out of the box" like a super slim U shaped open baffle bookshelf speaker with the 10s at the sides with an open back and a extra rear fireing tweeter. Or if there would be to many drawbacks with the U shaped baffle maybe i could use hinges so i could fold out the baffles.
The goal of this build is not to get the best sound possible but simply to get something different (and compact).
I would love to hear some different new ideas (go crazy) and thoughs on different possible builds.
Some relevant information
I have a powerful 2 ohm capable amp and a subwoofer thats collecting dust that can be used.
I happen to have the Dynaudio Automotive Brochure lying about.
The MW182 is a 10" 88dB 4 ohm bass. Impedance correction is 4.7R + 47uF. Qts around 0.64 and Vas 34L. Says closed box or open baffle to me.
The MD142 is a 3" metal 86dB dome, impedance correction 6.8R + 5.6uF.
Usual 1.2uF plus 8.2R On 90dB tweeter.
Dynaudio produce First order filters for this. You would think a coil on the bass and an LCR on the mid. An LC on the tweeter. Attenuation and polarity to suit.
I don't know what a good idea is for the enclosure, but an open baffle with twin series wired basses might do something. Can't see much mileage in twin tweeters, but you can experiment.
The MW182 is a 10" 88dB 4 ohm bass. Impedance correction is 4.7R + 47uF. Qts around 0.64 and Vas 34L. Says closed box or open baffle to me.
The MD142 is a 3" metal 86dB dome, impedance correction 6.8R + 5.6uF.
Usual 1.2uF plus 8.2R On 90dB tweeter.
Dynaudio produce First order filters for this. You would think a coil on the bass and an LCR on the mid. An LC on the tweeter. Attenuation and polarity to suit.
I don't know what a good idea is for the enclosure, but an open baffle with twin series wired basses might do something. Can't see much mileage in twin tweeters, but you can experiment.
You can try something omnidirectional? They have those speakers that face up and an inverted cone that disperses the sound? I have thought about doing something like that, you can try to coaxial mount the woofer behind the tweeter or something and downfire the sub? Round and cone?
illcrx: A omnidirectional/ semi omnidirectional speaker was a intressting idea i will look into. To mount the drivers coaxialy i dont think is suiteble beacause the dome mid, so it could be quite difficult to time aligne and to mount the mid infront of the woofer i dont think would yield much bennefit because the low x over point.
System7: I do have a calibrated mic and stuff and i plan to eighter buy a dayton audio dats or make something simular with a capacitor and soundcard. So the goal is to make a costom X over after i built the box. (and the MD142 is a soft dome mid)
Another option might be to build a single enclosure for all the drivers. Or to build something like a Larsen speaker or ohm walshes for the mid and tweeter and build the woofers in separate encosures (but i am doubtfull because the x over point i fear would be to high that might cause the speaker to sound like two sources)
System7: I do have a calibrated mic and stuff and i plan to eighter buy a dayton audio dats or make something simular with a capacitor and soundcard. So the goal is to make a costom X over after i built the box. (and the MD142 is a soft dome mid)
Another option might be to build a single enclosure for all the drivers. Or to build something like a Larsen speaker or ohm walshes for the mid and tweeter and build the woofers in separate encosures (but i am doubtfull because the x over point i fear would be to high that might cause the speaker to sound like two sources)
Yes it is a soft-dome mid! I was asleep there.
Crossover seems to be not a million miles away from the SEAS 503 original. Allow for different impedances, of course:
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/33FWK.htm
How easy is that! I wouldn't worry about the basses interfering with each other. Wavelengths are far too long for it to matter.
Crossover seems to be not a million miles away from the SEAS 503 original. Allow for different impedances, of course:
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/33FWK.htm
How easy is that! I wouldn't worry about the basses interfering with each other. Wavelengths are far too long for it to matter.