From Telecaster upwards

Hi from Sydney!

Started my journey a few months back by buying a soldering station and fixing a buzzy Fender Telecaster. Difficulty level 1/5 but satisfaction level 5/5 🙂

Moved on to replacing a broken USB port on a microphone, and then repairing another guitar I got for $40 from eBay.

Big step up, but recently purchased an old, faulty Sony subwoofer for $6 (from eBay), which I'm using as a project to up my game in electronics in general.

Glad to meet you!
Cam.

Linear Audio High-voltage Delay for Tube Amplifiers V4

Hi, Does anyone want to take on the challenge on how to hook this up in my circuit? Much thanks in advance!

“The topology is shown in figure 1. By inserting the switch in the return line to the power transformer I leave everything after the last reservoir cap unchanged. So there is no impact on the power supply quality and no messing up any carefully laid out ground circuitry. It can be used either with a bridge-type rectifier or a center-tapped secondary with a double-phase rectifier as shown.

With a Center Tap transformer, the board is connected between Gnd and Center Tap. With a full bridge rectifier, it is connected between ground and the gnd output of the diode bridge. Easy, simple, no risk.”

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Question about multiple ports

Hi,
A speaker demo popped up in my YT short feed.
It was a Storgaard&Vestskov FENJA 3 way. (See: https://www.sv-audio.com/fenja-3way-floorstanding-speaker/)

The speaker looks like its 3 separate cabinets (Mid/Tweeter, 2 Woofers, 2 Woofers) And on the back, the two sets of woofers have 3 ports.
(The tweeter/mid cabinet has 1 port and a rear facing tweeter)

So my newbie question... w 3 ports... how do you model it? Would they have different length tubes for different frequency tuning?
What's the logic behind it?
Just trying to do a mental exercise of reverse engineering their speaker.

Thx

Build Guide Maintenance

I just wanted to highlight an issue I run into whenever I think about doing a non-beginner DIYAudio build, and gently suggest that maybe a process could be developed to rectify the issue. I would offer to help with this, but the whole problem is that the people who could help, probably aren't aware of the problem at all, and those who are aware, don't yet know enough to assist.

Let me explain.

I've built a few kits now, from various vendors, varying in complexity but all fairly hand-holdy in nature. A Bottlehead Crack, a Whammy, a CMOY, two ACAs, a Bottlehead S.E.X, and a Sangaku. Not a lot of guesswork for any of those. Nothing more complex. This is because, while my soldering is pretty decent now, I don't have the technical know how to 'wing it' yet, nor do I have the more expensive tools to aid in doing that (no scope, no variac, etc.). There seems to be this massive gulf between simple kits that tell you how to do everything (ACA, Whammy, etc.), and the serious business involving BYO mains power supply and so forth (any of the bigger power amps, for example).

This is okay, as I figure there are guides for the individual bits that make up these projects (soft start, speaker protection, PSU, etc) - surely I can piece these together...

And this is where I run into trouble - the build guides are a bit of a mess.

Now, I understand that everyone making these guides is volunteering their time, and doing their best, and they all have lives. And I understand that the forum exists, but the roadblock I keep running into goes a bit like this:

  • I decide to build a power amp
  • I find the build guide is fairly detailed up to a point, but unfinished, or anywhere up to 10 years and 3 versions out of date, and the BoM is for a completely different version of the board
  • I go to the forum and search and wade through the relevant discussion thread that contains some useful info, but also hundreds of pages of conversation, bickering, off-topic stuff, and weird modifications that are cool but only further confuse the issue
  • I know I need to build a power supply, and that build guide is sort of up to date, but doesn't go into much detail on how to link it up with the other boards I'm building, assumes knowledge I don't possess, and it's also written for a 120vac audience and I'm in a 230vac country and can't quite suss out how to modify the instructions (and BoM) to suit
  • I go to the forum again and find a few pictures that suggest certain things, but no hard info
  • I also find that people say the soft start and speaker protection boards are important, so I look into those
  • I find that the relays for the soft start are no longer made (with no obvious replacement), that the BOM has not been updated in years, that I need an additional transformer to run the board, that maybe it's not going to work for this project anyway, and that there are many custom solutions that others are happy with, but I would have no idea how to build those myself
  • I get a vague sense of how these things link up, but again, nothing concrete
  • I look at the enormity of the things I don't know, the potential risk posed by my ignorance, and I give up
This happened to me after buying 50% of what I needed to build an F5, and I ended up selling the parts off out of frustration as the whole thing had become an albatross around my neck. Every so often I build up the courage to try again, but remember how much money I wasted the first time, and lose confidence. That's no-one's fault but my own, but...

I honestly believe that if the build guides and BoMs underwent some kind of once-a-year maintenance (check the BoM and amend as necessary, aggregate all forum addenda and add it to the guide, etc.), it would be a lot easier for eager but inexperienced people like myself to have a crack and learn something. As it is, it feels like it's just the same experienced people in the forums building out these kits, and they don't need the build guides, or can fill in the gaps unassisted, so the build guides are left untended.

Anyway, those are my thoughts. Please be kind - it's just a gentle, well-meaning nudge. 🙂

Mystery sound on switch-on. Advice required!

I have been given an amplifier, a Marantz 1060 from the late '70s It came from its original owner and is in beautiful condition with a sound to match. However, when I switch it on there is a rustling scratchy sound through my speakers (LS3/5a) for two or three seconds. This is independent of volume setting. I am reasonably happy weilding a soldering iron, but where do I start? Instinct tells me some capacitors need changing, I assume in the power supply. Am I on the right track?

Despite its age, this seems to be a highly sought after amplifier in the USA with lots of rebuild and capacitor kits for sale there, and I would like to continue using it.

Thanks for any advice.

What will happen when using 16 ohm load on a 8 ohm designed crossover

I know the basic theory that the crossover points for a first order xo will go 2x up or down depending on whether its a HPF or LPF when using 16 ohm load instead of 8.
But some context here.

I have a pre-build PA crossover 1,6kHz/8 ohm which is a third order HPF and second order LPF.
I have no idea how it will react if I
A) use two serial connected 8 ohm woofers (sum 16 ohm) on LPF side,
and B) add a 8 ohm resistor to the tweeter to attenuate it on the HPF side.

I understand I can use a L-PAD to maintain the HF ohm but my goal is actually to see if I can somehow increase the HPF XO point and maybe also investigate if the slope can be tamed in way not to have such a brutal Q around the xo point.

Unfortunately I cannot install any sim programs...

Help me with carbon fiber tonearm internal grounding

Years ago, I made 2 primitive Well Tempered style tonearms, one, using an older WT tonearm, the other I made with a carbon fiber tube. Both had a hum, the WT arm's ground wire, it seems, was broken and no longer reaching the screw behind the cartridge mount. Once I got a 3d printer, I began experimenting with carbon fiber arm tubes. I made 2 self standing arms, one 9" and the other 10.75". The arm tubes were quite narrow and I didn't know enough to add an internal ground wire, so, again, both had hums.I've tried again, first using a 10mm diameter carbon tube and a woven, flexible metal tubes for each pair of signal wires, which I twisted with 4-5 turns per inch. I soldered a wire to the 2 internal woven metal jackets and ran it out with the 4 signal wires to an external PIB box. I 3d printed numerous parts of these Well tempered clones (golf ball style), including the cartridge mount. I still got a hum. Perhaps the ground wire came lose.

I tried again, using a brass tube inside the carbon fiber arm tube. I fastened the ground wire to the arm tube, separated the signal wire pairs, twisting the pairs separately and feeding them thru different holes in the arm tube. I ran the ground out the hole with the right signal pair and connected the twisted pairs and ground to the integrated PIB box on a Well Tempered Simplex table, modified with older Well Tempered parts - bearing, spindle and platter (I bought it without arm or its support parts, spindle, platter). I added an extended base on this table to accommodate the taller WT bearing. I used another plastic printed cartridge mount. STILL a hum. As a test, I ran a wire from the exposed end of the internal brass tube to the ground post, hoping this would stop the hum, but the hum continued.

I am now preparing to replace my arm on the Simplex with the original Well Tempered stainless steel armI IF the broken outer ground wire can be fixed. A friend told me NOT to connect the ground the a headshell made of metal. What have I been doing wrong?
Here's a pic of my Neat-made Shield MO-19 idler with the 12" arm.

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For Sale Audio Note CD 2.1x/11

MINT Audio Note CD 2.1x/11. Ali fascia. Original packaging. This is collection only from U.K. postcode HG5 as I would not trust any courier! Bank transfer only. Thanks for looking.

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Introductions

Hello All,

Happy to find this informative audio forum and seeing the collective knowledge exchange happening here!

My journey into vintage audio started a few years ago during the pandemic period and been acquiring (and repairing/fine tuning) various turntables, R2R's, tube consoles and other components past few years.

Prior to this phase I bought my first TT (a Sony linear tracker) in late 80's and still enjoy listening to my old vinyl. My next phase in the journey is to delve into vacuum tubes...

Looking forward to interacting more with you all.

Henry

Amplifier advice

I'm looking for a small relatively inexpensive 2.1 channel amp to power a pair of small speakers and a small sub. The speakers are rated at 50 watts and the sub 100 watts.

If there's an inexpensive stereo amp and amp for the sub that would work as well.

I'd like to keep cost under $100 if possible and it needs to be relatively simple to operate.

This is going to be for a PC at work used to show a video.

EDIT:

I found a subwoofer amp that might work.

https://www.amazon.com/Subwoofer-Amplifier-Receiver-Integrated-Audio/dp/B07942M4MC/

I'd need a stereo amp though with a variable line output.

This one has a line output, but not sure if it's controlled by the volume control.

https://www.amazon.com/Saiyin-Amplifier-Bluetooth-Integrated-Headphone/dp/B0CJ4ZY7SX

Pass Class D

About 40 years ago I was inspired to make a switching amp, and the
result was a modest 20 watt/ch unit that worked quite well.

I've been asked about this several times in the last couple weeks about
the existence of a Threshold Class D amplifier, and I was inspired to
haul it out of storage and fire it up. It still measures decently if not
to the standard that Bruno has developed, but it sounded good - I
recall that Gordon Holt liked it.

Anyway, here are some pics.

:snail:

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MacBook Pro - Any Shortcomings as Design tool?

I am in need of a new laptop, and am considering the 14" MacBook Pro M3 Pro, and wondered if there were any caveats to buying one if my intention is to do some REW and other simulating and measurements? It's been a while since owning a Mac and wasn't sure if things had changed etc.

My goal is to measure some speaker projects and have a UMIK-1 from MiniDsp I would like to use.

I'm sure some software like WinISD isn't going to be possible, but wonder what else I may miss out on? Thanks and apologies if this is the wrong subforum.

I introduce myself from Andalusia

Hola a todos, estoy encantado de poder participar en este foro. Te he estado leyendo durante mucho tiempo ya que soy un entusiasta del bricolaje. Recientemente he reconstruido los paneles de unos Martin Logan Aerius y he montado un amplificador a60+, para lo cual he utilizado vuestros conocimientos que aportáis en el foro, por lo que me gustaría agradecer de antemano a aquellos que desinteresadamente comparten sus conocimientos. Saludos.

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  • Like
Reactions: FrankieS

First Watt F5 and Harbeth shl5+ compatibility

I've been reading a lot about the diy F5 and so far I like what I've read. I like the philosophy behind First Watt. I'm about ready to hit check-out at the diyAudio Store but I have a few questions that I have been unable to answer through this forum/internet searches. Although its diy, it's still a significant investment to build one of these amps and I'd like to avoid a potential mismatch before I do. I plan to buy/build the F5 and the B1 based on the current version of the original plan. My system is vinyl only. I have a high quality front end: Goldring Ethos MC Cartridge and a TriChord Diablo phono preamp. My speakers are Harbeth shl5+. My amp is an old Yamaha M-40 paired with the passive Yamaha MVS-1.


Will the F5/B1 be an upgrade to my M-40/MVS-1?

Does anyone have experience pairing the First Watt F5 with the Harbeth shl5+ speakers?

How does the F5 compare with the dual mono version of ACA? Is this even a fair comparison?

Any advice will be very much appreciated, even if it means I'm better off heading in a different direction. Thank you in advance.

Raffle take 2 of R Thatcher Aleph 30 boards

I've taken the sad decision to relinquish my custody of these lovely amplifier boards. The heatsinking is just a little inconvenient for me with my equipment rack not really giving me enough air space. Being the main living room, (and being married)! I don't really have many options.

But my loss is someone's gain! And inspired by the very nature I came to have these amps and Randy's overall generosity on here, I could only do the same and give them back to the community.

So again using Randy's giveaways as inspiration I shall ask that those entering are keen to build this amplifier. If it appears in the swap meet I'm sure you will be scorned!

If interested please add you name to the list. If you could precede your name with the number in numerical order, will just help me with the random draw.

This will take place on Saturday 21st September at noon GMT.

I only ask that you cover postage.

You may see that I removed some resistors to 'detune' it to relieve some heat, but I shall reinstate these.!

Good luck!

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  • Locked
The Journey of DIY No-Feedback Class D Amplifier-Link

I just posted 2 threads under Class D category; the following threads will come soon.​

The Journey of DIY No-Feedback Class D Amplifier (1) Subtitle: The Motivation and Story Behind It​

https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...le-the-motivation-and-story-behind-it.417534/

The Journey of DIY No-Feedback Class D Amplifier (2): Subtitle: Why choose a Class D amplifier architecture?​

https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...oose-a-class-d-amplifier-architecture.417617/

QUAD ESL-2812X, any hope for mods?

Read about the obviously revamped Quad ESL-2812X in TAS:
"...the latest iteration has a re-designed protection circuit that allows it to be played loudly with safety. Let me tell you, walking into a room and hearing Quads, with all their usual splendid virtues, playing at nearly uncomfortably loud levels induces cognitive dissonance. But it happened, so I’m a believer."
Any chance the re-designed protection circuit would be possible to apply on earlier models?

B+5 to 18V

Hi,

I have a single 12ax7 guitar preamp. 300V for the preamp is provided by a power supply like this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006302470816.html.
I am adding boost in front of my preamp and buffer after it. Both boost and buffer use OPA134. I want to get 18V from 300V to feed both op-amps. I have attempted to do a resistor divider with 100k and 8.2k resistors. Without load I measure 20+ volts, but with the op-amps on, I get actual voltage like 3 volts on the op-amps. And the 100k resistor gets quite hot.

What is the best way to feed two OPA134 from a 300VDC supply (of course 12ax7 doesn't go anywhere, but the supply should be able to handle it all with no problems)?

Thanks.

GB "long and skinny" FirstWatt J2 clone PCBs

I'm producing a set of J2 boards for myself and thought I'd do a group buy to increase volume and reduce costs a bit.

Boards are the "long and skinny" format for FirstWatt-style enclosures with a flanged heat-sink. (Boards are 14" long with 2" hole spacing.) LTP layout is for dual SJ109s (although quad SJ74s will go in the same holes).

Boardhouse will be EuroCircuits. 35uM copper (~60uM after plating). Cost will be between €15 and €25 per channel (depending on volume) + shipping. Cost includes EU VAT.

780489d1568105825-gb-skinny-firstwatt-j2-clone-pcbs-j2-board-front-jpg


780490d1568105825-gb-skinny-firstwatt-j2-clone-pcbs-j2-board-jpg


Schematic, BOM, etc. in post #15 (GB "long and skinny" FirstWatt J2 clone PCBs).

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Clarity 6.2 speakers

Has anyone actually seen or heard these? I know they're new.

I just can't believe they are being sold retail at 4000€ a pair.

If I substitute Beyma TPL150H (ie in horn) tweeters for whatever they are using then I could buy the drivers and PRs for about £870 for the Beymas and about 1400€ for the Purifis, so that's about 2400€ for drivers before crossovers and cabinets and labour.

Seriously? Time to throw in the towel on that design?

My OP-AMP rolling adventures

Amplifier build is here:

https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/finished-my-class-d-build-sounds-amazing.401362/

-----------------------

Very happy with the sound of the amp, but I wanted to see if a positive impact could be made with OP-AMP changes.

Supplied with the zero zone TPA3255 boards I used are the JRC 5532DD OP-AMPS. Despite being nothing special they are a great match for the amplifier boards. Detail and separation are fantastic, I was quite happy with them.
IMG20231108134259.jpg


After posting here and doing a bit of reading I decided to try the Texas Instruments OPA1656. Quite well regarded and made by TI who also make the 3255 chip contained in the amp boards. I was expecting good things.
IMG20231108134139.jpg

IMG20231108134306.jpg


First kick in the teeth was the eBay seller, or rather the packaging. Just a thin plastic sandwich bag. Inevitably one of the pair arrived with half its legs smashed off! The seller refused to replace, only refund. So I bought a replacement from another seller. Same awful packaging, this time bent legs which I carefully straightened.

They lasted 20 minutes in my system before the JRC's went back in. They sounded like pressing a loudness button with low and high end frequencies being boosted leaving the midrange (and thus a lot of detail) muffled and drowning. Soundstage was ruined, with the system now sounding like I had draped a duvet Infront of the speaker's .

Next up Burson Audio 'Vivid'
IMG20231105100128.jpg


The first nice thing is the packaging. Nice and safe, no bent of missing legs. Off to a good start over the 1656!

IMG20231108133705.jpg

These are quite large both in footprint and height. Not a problem on my boards but it could be for some.

Initial thoughts, bass was the first thing I noticed. I run my system with a pair of wharfedale Diamond 9.1's, which are fantastic speakers in my opinion, but somewhat lacking in the bass department. That said I usually listen at low volumes and I have spent many hours enjoying my system how it was.

I wasn't sure on the increase in bass that the Burson Vivids created at first. But continued testing. All of the detail and separation this system did so well was still present with an unexpected added bonus once in a blue moon.... the odd twang of a guitar at the end of a riff during Fleetwood Macs Rumours (SACD) would really pop and travel. Almost like in a surround system. The FOO FIGHTERS greatest hits provided no real changes over the JRC's apart from the previously mentioned increase in bass which after briefly swapping back to the JRC's and playing the same song again, I must say was now proving to be an improvement.

Now a volume increase to medium levels and some Bonobo - Fragments (24bit). A very atmospheric album with lots of little details like triangle twangs and sparkles. The Bursons did well here. Thankfully they left the soundstage alone just adding a touch of bass and the odd sparkle. I found myself waiting for these sparkly almost surround sound like moments. Nice.

After a couple of hours the increased bass was now a feature that I enjoy and having swapped back and to the JRC's a few times now, I need in my life.

For anyone who hasn't swapped around OP-AMPS before, we are not talking huge changes here. If I had to put a figure on it, somewhere between 5 & 10% (certainly with the opamps I used) subtle but notible.

In short I rate the Bursons, they will be staying in.

Thinking of trying OPA445 singles, in place of either LM4562 / NE5532 duals but unsure specs line up, any help much appreciated :-)

Hi
I am thinking of trying opa445's in place of either lm4562's that are in my pre/dac or swapping out some NE5532's that are in my crossover, just to see if and how they may affect the music... however, in checking out the specs of each, I am a little unsure that they align well enough not to cause any issues.

Yes you have guessed, I am a beginner with electronics, if it is broken or I don't mind if it won't work again, have a go at soldering or fixing it, so far okay with minor issues, but my pre/dac and crossover are valuable to me and I do not want to break them! , so thought I had better ask advice! Yes the dip8 sockets in both, allow the original op amp just to be pulled out and the new pushed in 🙂


NE5532 (crossover)OPA445BM (to try)LM4562 (pre amp/dac)
slew V/uS91520
gain bandwidth MHz10255
Current IP balance10pA10nA
V IP offset500uV1mV100uV
current supply8mA (2ch)4.2mA (single)10uA (2ch)
Current OP38mA / ch15mA26mA / ch
V supply min 6205
V supply max409034

I am thinking I shall need some of these:
https://www.cimarrontechnology.com/...alled&attribute_pa_bdog_1=4f-nocomponentadded

I can see the bandwidth is somewhat lower on the 445, but am unsure how this will change things...

I am not sure what the current balance is tbh, I know it only looks like a tiny number but the 445 is 1000 x different to the 4562

Once again I am not sure how the V offset will affect things in the cct, or the sound coming out the speakers

As far as I can see if I am using two 445's the current supply with be okay... not too far off

The Current OP bothers me most, as this is less than half, of the op amps already in place...

Many years ago I attempted to swap out the 4562 for a Burson op amp, the supply V was 22V if I remember correctly and the Burson tech support said that their op amps would be okay at 22V but they were not!! I have not yet measured the supply to the 5532! to check the min 20V of the 445 is met.

Any comments much appreciated, I have had a read, to try and understand what the specs mean, but I think I need a very simple explanation, and of course to know if one number differs a little or wildly what could happen :-0

Cheers for any thoughts

DIY DAC project recommendations

Hello,

Nice to meet you all. I really new here. It took me while muster up courage to do my first post (minus the introduction post). I hope I dont offend anyone here.

I am looking to build a DAC. My goal is to build a DIY DAC that brand name DACs (Denafrips, Gustard, Holo, and so on) around the $2000 mark by spending less. I am looking at around a $1200 budget. Spending less than the budget is better but I am willing to spend more if the gains in sound quality is substantial.

My electrical knowledge is close to 0 but i can solder and desolder parts. If it is too difficult, I can hire someone locally to do it as the labour cost is relatively cheap here (Thailand).

Ive seen a couple of diy projects around here such as Iancanada's, DDDACs, Gabster TD1 and Protodacs but Im not sure which one to pick. I lean more towards projects that have a youtube video as it is easier to follow the guide but I dont mind doing some more research as long as it sounds better.

My source is IOS (Iphone/Ipad) apple music lossless fed VIA USB to a DAC > Cayin Ha-3a Tube Amp > Headphones.

I hope you guys can help recommend some projects.

Thank you.

For Sale Hashimoto HW-60-5 pair (EU)

I am selling one pair of Hashimoto HW-60-5 Push Pull Output transformers.

Excellent condition, in original packaging.

Asking 630€ PayPal F&F, The transformers are in Denmark, will ship worldwide.


“The Hashimoto HW-60-5 is for applications that require the 5K Ohms primary with up to 60 Watts output level into 4, 8, 16 Ohms. The HW-60-5 is equipped with an Ultra-Linear tap, and its frequency response covers between 10Hz and 70,000Hz (+-3db). The HW-60-5 is suitable for high-powered Push-Pull applications that utilize popular vacuum tubes, such as 300B, KT-88, 6550, EL34 (6CA7), and 6L6-GC.

The HW-60-5 measures 100 (W) x 110 (D) x 120 (H) mm, and weighs 4.1Kg (9.0 LB). The Primary Inductance is 200H and the Maximum DC Current can be up to 125mA x 2. The HW-60-5 utilizes a twin Cut-Core, and the core material is 0.27mm Orient Core Hi-B which is the enhanced directional silicon steel, from Nippon Steel Corporation.”

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Powerline WiFi caused audio disturbance

I plugged a powerline wifi adapter in the mains socket close to my tube preamplifier. Now there is ticking sound. The peamplifier is an IEC Class I device, the chassis is connected to the mains protective earth. The signal ground is connected to the chassis with hum blocking antiparallel diodes (35 Ampere Graetz). The mains input of the preamplifier has "some" AC noise filter.
If I place the powerline adapter in a different socket several meters apart (perhaps on a different phase? I have a 3-phase installation in the house) the noise disappears.
Is there any way to block this noise? It seems data is being propagated on the mains wiring and it is disturbing the audio cicuitry. I am looking for a more effective filtering.

Distortion at Line outputs

I have recently purchased a second hand PS Audio ultralink Dac. Since I am using powered speakers, I do not have a preamplifier at the moment. So I tried connecting the XLR outputs of the Dac to the powered speakers and varying the input level on the back of the powered speakers for checking. I can hear a kind of distortion from the tweeters (like the tweeters have been torn and distorted ). When I connect the speakers to another system, they play perfectly fine

Since it's exactly the same in both channels, is it a problem in the power supply of the Dac or something like a DC offset at the XLR outputs of the Dac? And if it's the DC offset, how do I measure it? Also, are the speakers at a risk due to this?

Thank you

Lab Power Supply Not Getting Up To Voltage

My power supply has not been able to go up to 20v since I got it, I had gotten it to go up to 14v but it does not want to go higher than that.
Recently it has decided it won’t go above 10v (second photo, voltage knob is turned to max)
Any ideas on how to fix it? Should I recap it?

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Bull or what?

Copied from an online ad for what I thought was one of the worlds most respectable amplifier manufactures

unique three-point support foot "Stress-less Foot" is employed to enable stable installation without being affected by even the slightest distortion of the floor surface. Unlike conventional foot, the Stress-less foot is designed not to fix to the chassis directly, allowing it to vibrate freely to achieve a more natural sound.
The foot, made of machined steel, is not firmly fixed, but is mounted hanging from the bottom, enabling a more natural and rich sound with a sense of sound source deployment similar to that of a conventional pinpoint spike foot.

Yes they are talking about the amplifier not speakers

Opinions???🙂

How critical is achieving perfect RIAA equalization?

Hoping I'm not opening a Pandora's box but here goes 😛

I'm still in the process of designing my Rega Elicit phono clone and been wondering about this. In one of my books by a reputable author, he describes how to achieve perfect network component values for the resistors and capacitors by paralleling each component with a triming one, with the requirement that the ratio of the main and trim values be greater than the ratio of their tolerances. Of course the value measurements have to be made with a precision bridge. This is particularly helpful if one has come up with "awkward" values outside of the standard series, which is not my case.

I don't have a bridge and honestly I think it might be overkill to do this. Reason is, one of the components of the network is the output impedance of the gain stage which I believe will have worse tolerance than the 0.1% resistors and 1% capacitors the author suggests unless output transistors and their associated circuit components are also selected to be within these tolerances. And I seriously doubt manufacturers go to these lengths.

But out of curiosity I simulated my design with 1% variation factors for the passive components of both passive and active eq filters; see frequency response output plot below for 27 seven different combinations. Yes the frequency response is less flat but the maximum deviation from the theorical values is on the order of 0.3dB peak-peak for the extremes. Can this difference really be heard?

Capture d’écran 2023-12-21 135722.png


Just wondering if I need to go to the trouble of adding space for extra trim components on my PCB. I might do it for resistors as this is not that complicated but for the polystyrene caps I'm not sure as there are large variations in footprints of the parts I can get my hands on off ebay.

Thanks in advance for any insights.
-Joris
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The Journey of DIY No-Feedback Class D Amplifier (3). Subtitle: Simulation Results and Reflections on the Circuit Design

After finalizing the overall design, simulations are used to select specific components and determine resistor and capacitor values, followed by circuit board manufacturing for validation and iteration to achieve the initial design goals.

The Σ-Δ (Sigma-Delta) modulation method was chosen for the following reasons:

1,A fixed-frequency PWM modulator has almost zero Power Supply Rejection Ratio(PSRR) in its output stage, meaning it has no ability to suppress power noise. This creates significant challenges for power supply design, as any noise from the power supply directly converts into audio noise and reaches the headphones. In contrast, the Σ-Δ modulator offers some level of power supply noise rejection, greatly reducing the burden on power supply design.

2,Fixed-frequency PWM modulators use a standard triangular wave (blue waveform in Figure 1(a)), which contains a lot of high-frequency components. However, the integrator-generated waveforms from multi-stage integrators (green waveform in Figure 1(a)) resemble a triangular shape but with fewer high-frequency components and faster high-frequency roll-off (as shown in Figure 1(b), with blue representing the standard triangular wave's spectrum and green representing the multi-stage integrator waveform's spectrum). In an amplifier with the same bandwidth, the multi-stage integrator waveform results in lower distortion, and the PDM modulation signal's edge jitter (rise and fall times) is smaller, leading to overall lower noise and distortion of audio signal.

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(a) (b)
Figure 1, Triangle Wave, Higher-Order Integral Wave, and Their Spectrum

3,The Σ-Δ modulator can use a differential integrator circuit, which outputs a pair of equal-amplitude, opposite-polarity integrator waveforms (see Figure 2(b)) to the comparator. In contrast, the fixed-frequency PWM modulator sends a triangular wave and input signal to the comparator (Figure 2(a) shows the comparator input waveform of the fixed-frequency PWM modulator). It's clear that the slope (rate of change) at the intersection points of these two sets of input waveforms differs significantly. The differential integrator waveforms have a much steeper slope at the intersection points compared to the PWM modulator’s waveforms. This means that for the same noise level, the edge jitter of the comparator output is smaller, thus improving the overall amplifier performance. Attentive readers might have figured out that the slope at the signal crossover points of the higher-order integrator waveform should be much steeper than that of the standard triangular wave, which could be one of the reasons why the higher-order integrator performs better than the standard triangular wave.
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(a) (b)
Figure 2, Comparator Input Signals of PWM and PDM Modulators

4,Compared to fixed-frequency PWM modulators, Σ-Δ modulators offer greater flexibility and room for improvement in design. For example, a Schmitt trigger mechanism can be added to the comparator in a Σ-Δ modulator to improve the stability of the PDM pulse waveform edges.

The discussion so far has focused on reducing edge jitter in the PDM pulse signal. In Class D amplifiers, the pulse signal is central to the entire system; only precise pulses can result in low noise and low THD distortion. The edges of these pulses are crucial. If edge jitter is unrelated to the input signal, it generates noise, which, while having a smaller effect on distortion, can increase the amplifier’s background noise. If edge jitter is related to the input signal—such as when the triangular wave lacks linearity—the jitter (early or late edges) will correlate with the input signal amplitude, causing nonlinear distortion and resulting in higher THD.

Through the improvements discussed above, Σ-Δ modulation can potentially achieve lower distortion. The next step is to compare performance through simulation to select different components and parameters. This is a complex and tedious process, as components interact with each other, and changes to one typically require adjustments to related parameters. I'll use a key example to explain this further.

The precision of the modulated pulse signal comes from the accuracy of the multi-order integrator signals. The amplitude and frequency of these integrator waveforms are affected by many factors, such as the zero and pole distribution in the integrator network, the depth of the Schmitt trigger in the comparator, and the oscillation control resistor. For simplicity, Figure 3 shows a basic schematic of a multi-order half-bridge Σ-Δ modulator with a Schmitt trigger. The ratio of the Schmitt trigger resistor influences the modulation frequency, and the equivalent capacitance of the high-order integrator also affects the modulation frequency. These factors further shape the integrator waveform and its amplitude.

The accuracy of the integrator waveform has already been analyzed, but its amplitude is equally important, requiring a balance between the output capability of the integrator and the performance of the comparator. In general, a larger signal fed into the comparator results in more precise outputs, but an overly large output from the integrator can cause signal distortion.

1726886850802.png

Figure 3, Multistage Half-Bridge Sigma-Delta Modulator with Schmitt Trigger Mechanism

The second important aspect is the selection of the output stage, where the industry has reached a consensus: when cost requirements are not stringent, a full-bridge configuration is typically used. The advantages of the full-bridge mode include the ability to partially cancel even-order harmonics and suppress the back current of the output filter inductor, effectively reducing the power supply fluctuations in the output stage. This is particularly beneficial for Class D amplifiers with poor power supply rejection ratio (PSRR).

The output filter is also critical, especially for Class D amplifiers using PDM modulation. Since this design uses a modulation frequency above 2 MHz, there is more flexibility in choosing the low-pass filter’s cutoff frequency. This brings significant benefits: first, a higher cutoff frequency can be chosen, so the frequency response changes with different loads won't significantly impact the amplifier’s effective bandwidth. Second, since smaller inductors are used, they provide better linearity at the same size, reducing the distortion impact on the amplifier. During simulation, it was also observed that a multi-order output filter could reduce in-band noise, although there is no theoretical explanation for this yet. I welcome any interested parties to discuss this further.

The power supply solution is equally important. This design uses a single 3000mAh lithium battery, so a step-up boost converter is required. A major issue is that the amplifier operates at over 2 MHz, which is much higher than the frequency of commonly available boost converters. During a single PWM cycle, the supply voltage may drop due to the amplifier’s high current draw, which even the best boost chips struggle to handle in such cases.

After multiple experiments, both the pre-amp and output stages ended up using a two-stage single power supply solution. The pre-amp power (for the integrator and comparator) uses a combination of a boost circuit and a Class A power supply. The Class A supply uses a high-precision reference regulator with voltage accuracy of 0.1% and power supply noise as low as a few microvolts. Additionally, the midpoint reference voltage uses the same precision reference chip, not only improving voltage accuracy but also ensuring the integrator circuit operates symmetrically, optimizing open-loop performance.

Originally, I planned to use the same design for the output stage power supply, but due to the need to drive headphones with varying impedance and sensitivity, the Class A power supply’s efficiency was too low, which affected battery life. In the end, I chose a step-up circuit combined with a high-precision, high-current LDO and large capacitors for the output stage.

Interestingly, switching from a Class A supply to an LDO + large capacitors for the output stage resulted in virtually no subjective change in sound quality. However, changing the pre-amp from an LDO to a Class A power supply led to a significant improvement in sound. The high frequencies became more transparent, the low frequencies were stronger and more extended, and the soundstage was more stable. This change was quite noticeable, without the need for careful listening. Could this be due to the higher precision in both supply and bias voltages? I would love to hear thoughts from those interested in discussing this. The first version of the pre-amp, which was discarded, used a voltage divider for the bias reference, as shown in Figure 4, with resistor accuracy of 0.1%.

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Figure 4, Circuit for Generating the Bias Voltage in the Integrator

There are many other crucial details in the amplifier design and debugging process that cannot be overlooked, and I will discuss them further in appropriate contexts.

Figure 5 shows the Spice simulation results for the background noise. Within an effective bandwidth of 35 kHz, the highest background noise is as low as -170 dBV, with the low-frequency section reaching nearly -180 dBV.
1726886918175.png

Figure 5,Zero Input Circuit Configuration (Background Noise) Simulation Results

Figure 6 shows the simulation results with a 1kHz input signal. No harmonic distortion related to the 1kHz frequency was observed. However, compared to the zero-input results in Figure 5, the background noise increased by about 10dB, reaching approximately -170dBV. This frequency-independent distortion is a typical occurrence in such circuits.
1726886943532.png

Figure 6, Single Sine Wave Input Circuit Configuration Simulation Results

Figure 7 presents the amplifier simulation results based on the previous discussions. The modulation frequency is around 2.3 MHz, with an input signal peak-to-peak value of about 196 mV and an output peak-to-peak value of around 4000 mV, resulting in an overall gain of approximately 26 dB. The input signal consists of three frequencies: 500 Hz, 5 kHz, and 20 kHz. The amplifier's background noise level is about -167 dBV, which is 3 dB higher than the -170 dBV observed in the 1 kHz sine wave test shown in Figure 6, likely due to frequency-independent distortion causing this noise floor increase.

During the simulation, it was observed that different multi-stage integrator network configurations affect the spectral characteristics of frequency-independent distortion. By adjusting the integrator network, it is possible to reduce low-frequency distortion at the cost of increasing high-frequency distortion. In this design, I chose to balance the frequency-independent distortion across the spectrum, leading to a flat noise floor.

In reality, there are other approaches. One could adjust the integrator network to minimize the total or weighted power of frequency-independent noise within the effective bandwidth, without prioritizing flatness. My choice for a flat noise floor was based on the fact that amplifiers typically exhibit more distortion in high frequencies compared to low frequencies, whether it is frequency-dependent or independent. A DIY amplifier with a flat noise floor might offer a different subjective listening experience.

Given the multi-frequency input, the amplifier's total distortion is primarily composed of harmonic and intermodulation distortion. The simulation results show that the highest harmonic distortion reaches about -156 dBV, with the minimum signal-to-harmonic ratio being 152 dB. These results demonstrate excellent noise suppression and distortion control, achieving the expected high-performance standards, at least based on the simulation outcomes.

1726886970157.png

Figure 7,Multi-Sine Wave Input Circuit Configuration Simulation Results

The following lists the different distortion frequencies and their amplitudes generated from the simulation, for reference by those interested:
  • 1.5 kHz, -164.3 dBV
  • 4 kHz, -159.5 dBV
  • 9.5 kHz, -159.1 dBV
  • 10 kHz, -160.7 dBV
  • 10.5 kHz, -160.2 dBV
  • 14.5 kHz, -157 dBV
  • 15.5 kHz, -157.0 dBV
  • 19 kHz, -157.1 dBV
Overall, the simulation results show extremely low distortion, with distortion in the high-frequency range being about 5-7 dB higher than in the low-frequency range. It's noteworthy that there is a distortion point at 10 kHz, which corresponds to the second harmonic of the 5 kHz signal. However, the distortion values at these points are so low that the specific values are not very meaningful for further analysis —they are all well beyond the range of human hearing.

For those who might not be familiar with these simulation figures and find them hard to interpret, it's worth noting that if you were to input a true 24-bit audio source into the amplifier, the output would be virtually undistorted. The harmonic distortion is more than 7 dB lower than the 24-bit quantization noise, making it effectively distortion-free.

In addition, I added negative feedback to the circuit from Figure 7 and adjusted the overall gain to 20 dB, 6 dB lower than without feedback. Observing the results in Figure 8, no frequency-dependent harmonics were observed, but the overall noise floor increased by about 1 dB compared to the no-feedback case.

This phenomenon may differ from traditional Class B amplifiers. Class D amplifiers, due to their modulation frequency, generate out-of-band noise. When negative feedback is introduced, this out-of-band noise can also be fed back to the input. While negative feedback effectively suppresses harmonic distortion caused by nonlinearity, the feedback of out-of-band noise may increase frequency-independent distortion, thus raising the overall noise floor.

Although this analysis partially explains the rise in noise floor, it has not been rigorously validated and is provided for reference only. If I gather further experimental data or validation, I will share it separately in the future.

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Figure 8, Simulation Results of Multi-Sine Wave Input Circuit Scheme with Global Feedback

Additionally, when observing the operating frequency of the amplifier, it becomes apparent that as the peak value of the input signal increases, the divergence of the main frequency enhances, while the peak itself becomes lower. This phenomenon is a characteristic of the sigma-delta self-oscillation architecture, providing significant advantages in electromagnetic compatibility (EMC). Since the self-oscillation frequency is not fixed, it dynamically changes under different load and signal conditions, dispersing EMI (electromagnetic interference) energy rather than concentrating it at a specific frequency. This reduces interference with other devices, making sigma-delta amplifiers relatively superior in EMC performance in practical applications.

The following text is excerpted from "Audio Power AMP Design Handbook 4th edition" by Douglas Self, which discusses the increasing distortion characteristics of traditional Class B amplifiers at higher frequencies. Although this book was published in 2006, and advancements in technology may have significantly improved the high-frequency distortion characteristics of current amplifiers, this fundamental principle still holds unless there are breakthrough developments.

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From the simulation results, Class D amplifiers also adhere to this pattern, but their high-frequency distortion is only a few dB higher than the low-frequency distortion. Given the overall low distortion rates, this difference can generally be ignored.

Another noteworthy aspect is that the amplifier's phase response tends to be linear. As we know, the human ear is not very sensitive to phase response in sound. Therefore, it raises an interesting question: do linear-phase amplifiers produce different subjective listening experiences? If anyone has personal experiences or insights on this, it would be great to share and discuss!

Based on a simple calculation of the simulated distortion effects, the amplifier's THD value can reach approximately 0.0000025% with the minimal SNR is 152dB. Considering that the harmonic components are several dB above the noise floor, the THD+N value should be in the same range. This simulation result seems almost unrealistically good, so I conducted multiple verification simulations and cross-checked with actual test results, ultimately confirming that the simulation results have a certain degree of credibility. The verification approach was as follows:

  1. Device SPICE Model Verification: Each device's SPICE model was individually verified by building its recommended test circuit using the model and comparing the results with those provided by the manufacturer. The simulation results matched the manufacturer's data closely, confirming the accuracy of the models used.
  2. Comparison of Simulation and Measured Parameters: Key parameters of the fabricated circuit (such as the amplitude and shape of the integral waveform, the amplifier's oscillation frequency, and gain) were measured and compared with simulation results, with discrepancies generally kept within 10%. This directly demonstrates the reliability of the simulated circuit.
However, due to the lack of sufficiently high-precision instruments, I was unable to directly verify the noise floor and THD distortion values through measurement. This limitation makes the validation of these performance metrics in the simulation somewhat lacking, but overall, the verification results still hold reference value.

Of course, the performance results from the simulation represent only a theoretical upper limit; the actual amplifier's performance may degrade to varying degrees due to various factors. A good simulation result is merely a starting point, and the process of building the amplifier is essentially a struggle against these degradation factors.

Writing the threads has been particularly challenging for me. I’ve tried to clearly describe the simulation conditions at the time, but the reality is far more complex than what I've expressed here. If there are any unclear or incorrect points, I welcome further discussion. For now, I will share the results of my two major version of DIY AMP and some subjective listening experiences, so stay tuned!
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Newb - Grand Piano bass….how do I get there?

I’m new to DIY speakers but have a good understanding of basic electronics and I’d say I’m an advanced DIY’r with all the necessary tools and equipment to build a very nice system. I just don’t know how to design the speakers for the sound I’m looking for. I’ll try to explain.

At the beginning of Sarah McLachlan’s “Angel”, on one of the best systems I’ve heard (the one I’d like to build) the grand piano gives a massive “heart thumping” feeling. The remake of Sound of Silence by Disturbed is another song that my system can’t seem to “dig” into enough.

I have Kef R300s and two large subs (SVS PB-13 Ultra and Definitive Tech Supercube Reference 111lbs ). These are run with a Denon AVR-X3800H in my home theatre/music room. I also have a KEF R200C with R800DS surrounds some DT surrounds all running in 7.2.4 for now. The room has also been treated with 6 very large hanging panels and a large floor rug.

But no matter what I do I can’t seem to tune my system to give me that intense grand piano bass. Thomas and Stereo (the YouTuber) describes his Earthquake Sound Tigris here as doing exactly that.

How would I go about building and designing a set of towers to give me this “sound” that would make it different than any other pair? Here’s where I have zero experience but it seems this frequency I’m looking for is around 300-400hz?

Is it the cabinets? Woofer size? Crossover?

I understand no one is going to be able to answer this with a single simple response, I get that it’s a combination of the parts. Maybe that’s what I’m asking, what combination of parts is more likely to give me this finished product that can give results? What general direction should I be looking? Or is it even a realistic expectation?

Thanks all in advance!

Parasound HCA-806A

I'm selling my 6 channel Parasound HCA-806A if anyone is interested. This model has an issue with the output relays, I replaced all 6 when I bought it a few years ago. I also replaced and upgraded the power supply caps. I'm asking $375. It's a well built amp weighing 50lbs. I have it listed on eBay and Audiogon, but if anyone is interested here, just PM me. 4 channels are bridgeable, essentially turning it into a 4 channel amp. I used it to power my mains and center. The center I bi-amped. I replaced it with a Proceed HCA-3 amp. Which was made by Mark Levinson, so that's why I'm not using it. I actually don't want to sell it, but my business has slowed down, so I'm planning on using the funds to build an Ian Canada streamer.


http://www.audioreview.com/product/amplification/amplifiers/parasound/hca-806.html
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/fs-parasound-hca-806-6ch-x-80w-sf-bay-area-ca.191917/

https://www.bigazspeakers.com/produ...high-current-amplifier-80-120-180-wpc-bridged

I'm taking offers also...it is a used amp. This is also the "A" version,. which includes a remote turn on for your pre-amp, which I will include.
Here's the listing on Audiogon, so I don't have to post pictures here. Cosmetically it is in very good condition. It came with the "rack mount" face plate, but if anyone wants it and doesn't like the rack mount, I do paint and body and I can cutoff the "rack portion" and blend it with OEM blackout finish. The only issue with that is it may not be a "perfect" blend because I would have to stay away from the "Parasound' emblem, but in natural lighting inside, you'd never see it. I'm not cutting it off unless someone asks me too however.

Audiogon listing...

https://www.audiogon.com/listings/lisbb646-parasound-hca-806a-multi-channel-amps

PT and boards for the DIY AB "audio badger"

Hi there,

I am selling a new power transformer type Antek 800VA 45V ( AN-8445) and unused boards for the DIY 150W class AB amplifier "Honey Badger".
Too many projects waiting, and I just gave up on this one.

Original cost was $39 for the PCBs and $98 for the PT.
I am asking for $80 and shipping for 18lbs from 06851.

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My ZD-50 ultralow distortion chipamp.

Ultralow distortion LM3886 chipamp

Hi everyone! It is my first message on this forum and I hope it will be interesting for you.
So, my power amp is based on LM3886. It has a very deep feedback - about 70dB at 20kHz, and much more on lower freq. It considerably reduces distortions compare to the standard schematic. I started this project almost one year ago, and now I have a very good working one. It has about -120dB THD at 11kHz, 4Ohms, 60W. IMD 19+20 is less, and I could not measure it.
Here is the schematic, parts list, PCB layout.
Some measurements.
That's it for today, I hope I'll post more soon.
Nick.

8” midrange wave guide design

I am looking to build a 3 way pa top with 60x40 dispersion so two cabs can be splayed side by side. I already have a few ME60 horns and some 15” drivers from a couple old carvin Trx 215n and friend gave me. Basically I would get two more ME60 horns and build two more cabs to split the woofers between a them and use an 8” midrange with a wave guide. I cannot find much information for designing a waveguide. Is it as simple as angling the sides out from the cone at the desired angle or is there more to it such as the length of the guide relative to the bandwidth?

how to properly integrate a gain stage in my class a amplifier?

Recently i made a simple common emitter stage on a breadboard that was an altered version of this amplifier from "John audio tech" with and without the constant current source,
the version with the constant current source made around 1.1W of clean power into 8 ohms, and the version without the constant current source made around 0.45W.

The alternations included an additional constant current source version, diffrent resistor values and an single mje3055 npn instead of an darlington, i was really suprised and wanted to expand on this idea and make it higher power and more practical but i soon realised that the bjt common emitter stage is pretty limited and inpractical for anyting highrt power so i made this but now im having trouble with integrating a gain stage into this circuit.
1726868284606.png

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Best materials for enclosure of subwoofers and low-frequency section?

Hi to everyone.
Classic material is a MDF.
Also HDF, and their variations and types, depending on the type of wood, glues, additional materials used.
Plywood is also increasingly popular. Baltic birch is a classic, but lately I've been reading about bamboo plywood. There are also different varieties.
Artificial stone and its extensive proprietary variations. Many praise, but still not so popular.
Kevlar concrete. I met it rarely, I'm not sure that it is more effective than the previous ones, I don't know what was more evident here - acoustic properties or marketing.
Maybe best - aluminum?
Either just the front panel, 1 cm thick, 0.4 inches, as in Technics SB-1000, or the entire case as in Krell MRS, the front panel is 2.5 inches 6.3 cm, and the sides are 1 inch 2.5 cm, also found the deep sea sound Mariana 18SA is made of 6061-T6 aluminum 3/8 inches thick. Many expensive companies make aluminum bodie - Magico, Goldmund, Preсide.
Zinc alloy - used in Realistic speakers.
When I was searching, this topic seemed interesting.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/aluminium-speaker-cabinets.373719/
Finally, lead, it is ideal if it were not for the toxicity. But it can be painted. In any case, despite its perfection, I have not encountered lead boxes in acoustics.

Thank you.

Variable Q high pass filter schematic?

I'm looking for a schematic for a second order high pass filter with the ability to vary the Q from say 0.707 to 2.8 or so. Playing around with an update to the JBL BX63/BX63A. I know I can do it with rotary switches and fixed resistors, but I'd prefer to use a dual gang potentiometer.
1726668458018.png

From my calculations with C1=C2= 0.22uF, I'd need R1 to vary from 20k to 5.1k while R2 varies from 39k to 150k for Qs from 0.707 to 2.75.

I've searched and not found anything, maybe I'm not using the correct keywords?

Hype or game changers, what's caught your imagination this past decade?

Hi Everyone,

Just wanted to connect a little bit and ask you what new technologies, ideas have caught your eye or sparked new projects. Have you found something worth the hype or things which you realized just weren't worth the money? I find myself in kind of a lull. After decades of being an audiophile and some, ahem, expensive lessons in speaker building I've become a little jaded. The one thing I still like is composite mid's and mid-woofers. That is, drivers made of multiple layers, as well as fiber/resin composite designs.

My other big discovery is the joy of doing DSP/Active speakers. OMG it's so much easier to do just what I want. Not wanting to say active or passive is better, but as a designer it's so much easier I can't see myself doing a passive speaker anymore.

What are your lessons and happy discoveries that have stood the test of time lately?

Best,

Erik

Anyone thinking about writing a book on audio? (ChatGPT as your copyeditor)

I was recently looking at writing a book (to be published on-demand/online--like Kindle Direct Publishing, etc.), and was thinking about how I would afford to enlist the services of a copyeditor to clean up the manuscript. It turns out that independent copyeditors serving micro-published authors are apparently just about to be "out of business", to be replaced by ChatGPT:

https://thejohnfox.com/2023/04/how-to-use-chatgpt-to-copyedit-your-book/

I have to say I'm glad I'm not an independent copyeditor. C'est la vie!

But for those that have been harboring secret thoughts of publishing a book, the costs and logistics are now much lower/easier...and interactive.

Chris

Need assistance with Def Tech BP7002 amp repair

Hi all. New member here, attempting to repair a BP7002 amp for a set of towers i purchased locally for next to nothing knowing one amp didn't work but the other worked perfectly.

i read through hundreds of threads on the subject and being familiar with fixing a couple vintage receivers, i thought i'd give it a try. i bought another non-working 7002 amp off ebay to use instead of mine (in case i mess up and for spare parts) where the led comes on, but no sound through the sub- although after gettin git and hooking it up, it has random hissing/static, kind of like the sound you get when scanning a tuner in FM between stations. Glad i bought one though because when i removed the bad one from the tower, it had been tinkered with and had some burn marks on it and the led didn't even come on - so i put it aside and focused on the ebay one. i compared the ebay one to my good one, measuring about every voltage possible and everything checks out. there are a few that are "slightly" off but in looking at the boards and the schematics i found, there was a rev B to rev C change that added/changed a few resistor values and Q types, so the small variances seem to make sense. Regardless, nothing is grossly off, all very, very close.

The ebay amp also suffered from the led light going out sometimes and voltages skewing when the light went out, and a weird noise when plugged in....i assumed that was the power supply and was planning to replace all the electrolytic caps anyway as they are known failure points (except the huge ones), which i did, and now both those issues have been fixed (4 of the caps actually tested bad) HOWEVER the scratchy/static sound from the sub is still there with no input, just plugged in, and no sound. I tried on both towers as well and different outlets. It seems this just cannot simply be voltages, or caps.

Moving to the amp board, I checked the three big output transistors on the heat sinks, and the several small ones, as well as all the diodes, several resistors, and the two caps (in circuit) and it all checks out nearly identical to the good one i have.

At this point, i'm thinking it's one of the IC's....or I'm missing something, otherwise I'm at a loss. Any thoughts on anything else i can/should try?

Any help is appreciated.

New member, looking forward to finally starting this hobby!

Hi all,

I registered as there seems to be a great community here to learn from and learn with. Over time I hope to have fun and safely explore some concepts as I dive into the hobby. Long term goals are to build a tube tester, a tube preamp, and then a couple power amps (SS and tube).

I already have really nice gear at home, but things do break and I want to be able to fix it or replace it with like circuits. In the past I had Audiolab 8000p amps that developed the same fault in the second amplification stage. Clearly the transistors there were at a failure point due to design or choice of part. I was able to rebuild the traces and put in replacement transistors, but I abandoned the project as I lacked the equipment to bias the circuit and the building and testing knowledge to ensure the rest of the circuit would operate safely and within spec.

So I'll lurk and learn for a while until I can ask good questions in the future.

Cheers,
Waffle

Suggestions please for 16-channel 24-bit digital audio recorder

I would like to interface one of the Behringer: POWERPLAY 16 P16-I

with an ARM based single board computer with an SPI input (pretty much all of them do - from the Raspberry Pi to newer, more powerful ones).

The "Ultranet" output is apparently just 2x AES3 data streams over Cat5 cable (running 8 chans x 48kHz sampling rate on each stream): X32 User Net • View topic - The pm16-m protocol

So they are using 2x AK4114 digital interfaces, which seem to be obsolete (there is an AK4118 which maybe is a successor part, but seems hard to find).

Transformer isolation is used in this system, so thought I should do the same. Given the Cat5 interconnects used, the architecture I have in mind goes like this:

RJ45 "PoE" compatible MagJack --> 2x clock recovery --> 2x SPI inputs on ARM board

the MagJack could be something like:
SI-52008-F - STEWART CONNECTOR - SOCKET, 1 PORT POE GIGABIT MAGJACK | CPC

I would appreciate any comments, suggestions. Particularly if there are projects already going on that I could re-use, e.g. for the clock recovery.

SPDIF output driver from CDPRO2

I am building myself a new CD transport based on a NOS CDpro2 drive i have been saving. I have been looking at various schematics looking for a high quality output driver/buffer/converter call it what you will. interface from the Cdpro2 unit to a rca/bnc SPDIF jack. IDEALLY I would like to have AES/EBU, RCA, Toslink and ST. But I will settle with just rca/bnc.
I see that ARC uses a AM26LS31, Wadia uses various 74 series parts like the 74HCT86D or the 74LS00 etc etc.
.
I am looking for Info on the thought process for these devices. I would imagine you need a high current FAST chip capable of driving a capacitive load into 75 ohms. I tried googling various versions of SPDIF output board. etc and did not find much that was what i was really looking for. are there any really good designs I should look at?

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Measured woofer response is way off from calculated response.

Greetings. I just carefully designed and built a beautiful set of speakers, but when I measure the woofer low-end response, it's very far from the calculated response. Here are the details.
  1. I'm using pairs of CSS WR125 drivers. I got their T/S parameters from the pdf file included in the documents. (see CSS-FR125S-wr125-dimensions)
  2. I enter these parameters into VituixCAD. and modeled a closed box with Qtc of 0.8. It said 18.6 liters for 2 drivers in parallel. (see VituixCAD showing 18.6 liters)
  3. So I build a cabinet with 18.1 liters and stuff it with the recommended amount of Polyfill - 1lb/ft^3 I think. I mount the 2 drivers in parallel.
  4. I made close-mic (nearfield) measurements with the Arta software. I chose one of the two woofers, but kept them both in parallel. I've got a calibrated microphone from Dayton Audio, a nice external power supply with synchronized clocks for the input and output, a nice LM3886 amplifier etc . . Not sure of where to put the microphone, I made several measurements of one woofer from 0.5cm to 5.0 cm from the phase plug, as well as an off-axis measurement. They were all very similar after normalizing absolute SPL levels, so microphone placement is not an issue.
  5. The FRD data shows a big peak above 100Hz and a 14dB/octave slope!:yikes: (see VituixCAD FRD)
  6. I also measure the impedance (of both drivers in parallel) with the Dayton DATS V3. The result says my Qtc=1.18! (see snip of DATS data)
So I'm kinda' stumped, and hoping there's something wrong with my measurements. One thing I'm considering is that my cabinet is too tall and skinny. the cross-section is a trapezoid with a 5" baffle, an 11.75" back and 5.75" deep for a cross section area of 48in^2. Then it's 21.25" tall. Did I accidentally make a transmission line without an opening?
I'm confused and frustrated. Any advice would be helpful.
View attachment 1358224

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  • CSS-FR125S-wr125-dimensions-1 (1).pdf
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