I didn't see any tantalum on the board. However I was curious of what these clear things with capacitance markings were. The only thing I saw similar online were some pictures of similar ones that were supposedly glass...
"Use new organic membrane as the medium; The aluminium foil is the electrode; There are sensing types that are coiled; Envelopment of transparent resin; Copper plated CP outgoing line. The wide, insulation resistance of range of capacity is large, good electrical performance.
Suitable for generally filtering, the signal couples and low pulse circuit."
"Use new organic membrane as the medium; The aluminium foil is the electrode; There are sensing types that are coiled; Envelopment of transparent resin; Copper plated CP outgoing line. The wide, insulation resistance of range of capacity is large, good electrical performance.
Suitable for generally filtering, the signal couples and low pulse circuit."
You are welcome 
and I hope it still does after the recapping too. Electrolytics you are fine to change, but anything else in the tuner section... well, don't even think about it.
and I hope it still does after the recapping too. Electrolytics you are fine to change, but anything else in the tuner section... well, don't even think about it.
so at this point im not sure what to do other than start putting the old junk green caps back in and set the new ones aside
all the electrolytics have been changed with same value nichicons
and before i knew to leave the tuner alone, all the little green plastic film caps were replaced with nichicon qyx series
all the electrolytics have been changed with same value nichicons
and before i knew to leave the tuner alone, all the little green plastic film caps were replaced with nichicon qyx series
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You mean you've broken it
The diagram you posted at the start is all you need. A full manual wont tell you any more beyond alignment procedures.
There is a pre/main switch with jumpers and sockets so if the switch was set incorrectly/and/or jumpers missing there would be no output. Check that, then check the basics. Begin with the why there is 1 volt acorss the speaker outputs. Check the rails as a first step.
The diagram you posted at the start is all you need. A full manual wont tell you any more beyond alignment procedures.
There is a pre/main switch with jumpers and sockets so if the switch was set incorrectly/and/or jumpers missing there would be no output. Check that, then check the basics. Begin with the why there is 1 volt acorss the speaker outputs. Check the rails as a first step.
Ripple current rating is (one) of the important factors when choosing replacement caps for a PSU. Modern caps are much smaller than those of yesteryear but it pays to be sure.
A soldered fuse is infinitely preferable to a holder... if you worked in a service dept you would be amazed at the number of faults/intermittent faults directly attributable to holders that had weakened and were causing an intermittent or high resistance connection.
A soldered fuse is infinitely preferable to a holder... if you worked in a service dept you would be amazed at the number of faults/intermittent faults directly attributable to holders that had weakened and were causing an intermittent or high resistance connection.
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