Hi guys'n'gals I've been following the boominator thread for a few years now since saturnus's original thread started many moons ago. I Finally have myself in a position to build one of these, two actually, with a mate of mine.
I'm not sure on the resistor for the piezo yet, but working on the dimensions at the moment.
I've had to make some adjustments to allow for a larger battery, which means the Boominator is 12mm taller, but volume of each L&R is the same.
Questions on the build:
276mm width & the HP10W's back to back is 268mm, my grills are 1mm ea = 270mm, so I have a gap of 6mm to fill to make it a snug fit.
Q1. Putting 5mm of spacing between the magnets cause any issues?
ie if I put a 5mm sheet of PVC or wood with cement in between the magnets and drilling a hole where the magnet holes to make the drivers a snug fit.
Q2. BoominatorII sketchup vent shows depth of the port @ 21mm, would it make any difference if I make it 30mm?
I'm not sure on the resistor for the piezo yet, but working on the dimensions at the moment.
I've had to make some adjustments to allow for a larger battery, which means the Boominator is 12mm taller, but volume of each L&R is the same.
Questions on the build:
276mm width & the HP10W's back to back is 268mm, my grills are 1mm ea = 270mm, so I have a gap of 6mm to fill to make it a snug fit.
Q1. Putting 5mm of spacing between the magnets cause any issues?
ie if I put a 5mm sheet of PVC or wood with cement in between the magnets and drilling a hole where the magnet holes to make the drivers a snug fit.
Q2. BoominatorII sketchup vent shows depth of the port @ 21mm, would it make any difference if I make it 30mm?
Yes, actually I was a bit worried about this as well, but it turned out not to be as hard as I feared. It also seems that much speaker cuts are a little smaller than yours. I don't know if this gives you any space problems with the screws.
I would proceed like this:
1. Put the grill on the wood facing down without the rubber gasket it came with and put the speaker on top also facing down.
2. Now predrill some small holes for screws (just like 1-2 mm deep). Make sure the speaker or grill doesn't turn while drilling any of the holes.
3. Carefully remove the speaker so that the grill still doesn't move. Then remove the grill but without turning it in any direction (just lay it right next to the speaker cutout so you're sure which way it was facing.
4. Put some acryllic silicone or some other glue sealant on the wood where the grill just was. (You could draw a circle on the wood with a pencil before doing step 3 - that will give you a clue where to smear your glue on). Don't use too much or too little.
5. Put the grill on wood again exactly how it was facing before so that your predrilled holes are still available to you. Optional: Maybe you need a little bit more sealant after this is done to make sure your speaker is glued to the grill and the wood.
6. Place the speaker on top of it all (remember where your predrilled holes are).
7. Screw the speaker tight.
8. Apply more sealant afterwards to make sure there are no air gaps.
Hope this helps.
I did use screws but Saturnus also said earlier that you can do it without, but I just wanted to be extra sure that it was in place and couldn't move.
Btw... Congratulations on becoming a dad
Saturnus earlier suggested not to make the magnet cutout in the middle bracing but instead let the magnet rest on the wood. The foam ring on the front of the speaker should be compressed when everything is held together. That means that the HP-10W back to back will be shorter than 268 mm and thus you can use a 9 mm piece of plywood for the middle bracing or use a 12 mm piece of plywood and cut a little bit of wood away with a router. See my pictures below in the signature.
Ok so i glued one of the drivers today with the grill to the plywood. It was hard. What i did was that i aplied some acryl sealer on the rubber from the driver then placed it on the grill which was in the hole. First of all i think i put to much sealer because a little bit came out inside the driver. Enough that i could see white some places. Second thing which i don't know if it is a problem or not is that i screwed the driver till almost the metal touched the plywood (the driver rubber was very pressed together). Maybe that was to much ? If i do this on the rest 3 then maybe it will be space between the magnet and the centerbrace. Did i do wrong ?
I also mountet the compartments together with the centerbrace and i am satisfied with that result. Here is a pic :
I also mountet the compartments together with the centerbrace and i am satisfied with that result. Here is a pic :
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Loosen the screws a bit. The screws are only guides to keep it in place. The screws should not compress the mounting gasket but rather the pressure when mounted on the centerbrace should. When the acryllic sealer hardens completely after a few days that is sufficient to hold the speaker to the front.
ok thank you,
something went wrong with the pic above so here it is :
Now what's the recommended assembly from here ?
I guess i should put all drivers in and mount them then should i mount the handle to the above (centerbrace and compartment wall) then mount that piece to the bottom of the case or ?
something went wrong with the pic above so here it is :
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Now what's the recommended assembly from here ?
I guess i should put all drivers in and mount them then should i mount the handle to the above (centerbrace and compartment wall) then mount that piece to the bottom of the case or ?
Last edited:
The sketch-Up is more a guideline than 100% accurate.
The port/handle should be 120x30mm and 36mm deep (3x12mm). The length is rounded fully (30mmØ) in each end.
The easiest way to do this is by using a 29mm (normally a standard size) cup or spade drill at each end (90mm apart, on the centerline off-set from the other centerline by 45mm on each side) and use a jig saw to connect the holes. After filing and sanding it the port/handle ends up at it's correct size. Please remember to drill a guide hole before using a spade drill, not so important if you use a cup drill.
Regarding sanding the port/handle, this is most easily done by buying 2 belt sander belts, one coarse and one fine. Cut them in half, and further cut them in strips of about 12mm wide. Clamp the assembled end piece and start sanding with these strips.
Last edited:
Som progress on my build
Hey,
Here are some pics of my progress :
I have also mounted the centerbrace with the compartment wall then together with the port handle. I don't know exactly the best way to proceed from here. Should i mount this (handle, centerbrace and compartment) to the bottom or should i try to mount either the front or back (the ones with the drivers mounted). Any best practices ?
donnib
Hey,
Here are some pics of my progress :
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I have also mounted the centerbrace with the compartment wall then together with the port handle. I don't know exactly the best way to proceed from here. Should i mount this (handle, centerbrace and compartment) to the bottom or should i try to mount either the front or back (the ones with the drivers mounted). Any best practices ?
donnib
thank u, i know how to resize but i thought that the forum made a small thumbnail for me then when you click on it ut shows the full size. Sorry about that.
Hey guys
I'm from germany and I want to buid a Boominator as Bass-Reflex (Hope u call it like this).
I want to use 4 of these fullrange Speakers http://www.sica.it/images/sica/pdf/nuovaVersione/Z004950.pdf
Are they good enough?
As Amp I have choose the Lepai Ta2020.
Und as battery Wentronic Blei-Akku 12 V, 26 Ah: Amazon.de: Elektronik
Which dimensions has a Boominator like this?
Are there any other Speakers that could play better in a Boominator?
For me it has only to be loud in the good hearable frequenzies.
Thx for helping me
(Sorry for my bad english)
I'm from germany and I want to buid a Boominator as Bass-Reflex (Hope u call it like this).
I want to use 4 of these fullrange Speakers http://www.sica.it/images/sica/pdf/nuovaVersione/Z004950.pdf
Are they good enough?
As Amp I have choose the Lepai Ta2020.
Und as battery Wentronic Blei-Akku 12 V, 26 Ah: Amazon.de: Elektronik
Which dimensions has a Boominator like this?
Are there any other Speakers that could play better in a Boominator?
For me it has only to be loud in the good hearable frequenzies.
Thx for helping me
(Sorry for my bad english)
The Boominator is a bass reflex design already.
Do not use other speakers than the recommend ones!!! I can't stress this enough.
The Lepai TA2020 is usually considered if not the worst, then one of the worst TA2020 amps. Please find another TA2020 amp.
Why use a different battery? Do you really need 80 hours of run time at maximum volume? If so, then consider use solar cells.
There is only ONE design for a Boominator. You can make the electronics compartment a different size if you like. But I do not recommend it. Stick to the design as intended.
If you can solder then use the already recommended 41hz amp6b (or sneaky) and put it in a suitable box of the already recommend Hammond 1590N alu-series.
If you can't solder yourself then something like this might do as a replacement. Indeed Class T Amp TA2020 Mini Amplifier 20WX2 Tripath | eBay
If you can't solder yourself then something like this might do as a replacement. Indeed Class T Amp TA2020 Mini Amplifier 20WX2 Tripath | eBay
A Mercedes cost 3 times as much as a Mazda of the same size. They can go the same speed and almost accelerate equally fast - however, people choose the Mercedes because of the better quality and durability.
The quality of sound is of course better and you can push the amp more before it clips.