Well, the switching method I proposed is so that the amplifier is never exposed to charging voltage or noise. For example if you want the battery charged but have a TA2024, then the battery charger would actually have to go higher than the amplifier can withstand. That charging complication could be reduced slightly by TA2021, TA2020 which have a bit more voltage tolerance.
The schottky diode like the 1n58223 Fairchild, in series with v+, is found on some of the pre-made boards. It is a popular protection to have a diode slightly weaker than the amplifier so that excess current is dumped instead of an exploded amplifier. In the case of such added protection (a diode, a crc, a cdc, etc. . ) I believe that a nice sturdy switch survives.
The other way to see it, is if an amplifier is hooked directly to a battery capable of starting an engine and there's no overcurrent protection added between them, then the repeatedly exploded amplifier problem could be a lot more annoying than a switch glitch or replacement. But, instead of explosions or sparks, if the amplifier is protected, so is the switch.
Now, my T-amp, has been using a very light switch for many years (it is one of the first T-amps), but it has been connected to an SMPS which is incapable of starting an engine, and that is a fairly big difference. Indeed, when using a huge battery instead, it does look important to add something to mitigate huge surges.
Thank you for bringing up that topic. Yes, anything capable of breaking the switch will break the little amplifiers too (there's been a rash of it), and it seems that we should solve both problems simultaneously. But, how do we do it efficiently? Is the diode trick enough? Or do we need something more elaborate?
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I started to build my standing halfinator today. Only problem now is what size of the port i should have. I have been trying to figure it out but didnt succeed. I need 2 ports, one of each side. The speakers have seperate room. The box has the same size as a half boominator. Can somwone please help me? "/
Seems like new problems with my amp6-basic won't ever stop coming. We fixed the problem mentioned in post #2923 the way Saturnus told us to, and everything seem to be ok when we made a quick sound check.
Then we fastned the amp in the electricity part of the halfinator by screwing it in the wood through the holes it has in each corner. We connected everything again and "hooray'ed" for being done with our build. But of course we were not...
When we connected the outputs again there was some HEAVY distortion on one of the channels, on both the HP-10W and the Piezo. Like the sound came from a effin' can or something. At first we thought the speakers on that side had failed on us, but when we switch side on the outputs the HEAVY (i mean really HEAVY) distortion switch to the other channel. So apparently it's the outputs on of the channel that is faulty. We tried to switch side on one + and let the -'s stay, if we by misstake would have connected a phase or something, but the distortion was still there.
It's the R-10 outputs (right output, isn't it?). What could've caused this, and can it be fixed in any way??
Then we fastned the amp in the electricity part of the halfinator by screwing it in the wood through the holes it has in each corner. We connected everything again and "hooray'ed" for being done with our build. But of course we were not...
When we connected the outputs again there was some HEAVY distortion on one of the channels, on both the HP-10W and the Piezo. Like the sound came from a effin' can or something. At first we thought the speakers on that side had failed on us, but when we switch side on the outputs the HEAVY (i mean really HEAVY) distortion switch to the other channel. So apparently it's the outputs on of the channel that is faulty. We tried to switch side on one + and let the -'s stay, if we by misstake would have connected a phase or something, but the distortion was still there.
It's the R-10 outputs (right output, isn't it?). What could've caused this, and can it be fixed in any way??
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@bekutori
This kind of amplifier is not expensive.
I have this one: NEW Tripath TA2020 20W Class-T Digital Audio Amp PCBA Tested & Work | eBay It isn't even the cheapest. And I abused it well during the clipnipper project. She still runs. What'll happen when you beat it up is slightly brighter treble, which was actually kinda pretty. It didn't quit. There's plenty of room to solder some more resistors on if you want to boost the gain. The input caps need paralleled or even swapped with some little Nichicon ES if you want it clear. I did those mods, and it survived that too.
However,
For Halfinator, I'd actually rather have: TA2021 like this: MUSE PC21 T-AMP AMPLIFIER 2*25W TA2021 For Desktop PC | eBay by Muse
This kind of amplifier is not expensive.
I have this one: NEW Tripath TA2020 20W Class-T Digital Audio Amp PCBA Tested & Work | eBay It isn't even the cheapest. And I abused it well during the clipnipper project. She still runs. What'll happen when you beat it up is slightly brighter treble, which was actually kinda pretty. It didn't quit. There's plenty of room to solder some more resistors on if you want to boost the gain. The input caps need paralleled or even swapped with some little Nichicon ES if you want it clear. I did those mods, and it survived that too.
However,
For Halfinator, I'd actually rather have: TA2021 like this: MUSE PC21 T-AMP AMPLIFIER 2*25W TA2021 For Desktop PC | eBay by Muse
I finished my boominator just moments before this years roskilde, so didn't get around to upload a pictore beforehand. Sadly the speakersystem was stolen from a tent in our camp the night between tuesday and wednesday.
It was built with 4xHP10w, 4xMPT-001 tweeters, a 10w solarpanel, 2x 7,2Ah Panasonic LC-R127R2PG1 batteries and a Sure Electronics Amp.
here's a bad quality picture:
Due to bad lighting and an iPhone camera it's kinnda hard to see what color it is, but it was sort of a neon pink/fluorescent pink color.
If anyone on here has seen it on the festival after wednesday please throw me a PM. I know my chances of getting it back is 1 in a million, but i thought i'd atleast try writing here.
Anyway thanks to saturnus for this great setup.
It was built with 4xHP10w, 4xMPT-001 tweeters, a 10w solarpanel, 2x 7,2Ah Panasonic LC-R127R2PG1 batteries and a Sure Electronics Amp.
here's a bad quality picture:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Due to bad lighting and an iPhone camera it's kinnda hard to see what color it is, but it was sort of a neon pink/fluorescent pink color.
If anyone on here has seen it on the festival after wednesday please throw me a PM. I know my chances of getting it back is 1 in a million, but i thought i'd atleast try writing here.
Anyway thanks to saturnus for this great setup.
Sorry to hear it, do you have a better picture of it?
Pretty sure I saw it somewhere during the festival, although my memory might be a bit fuzzy.
Did you live in G by the lake?
Here's a better picture. It's before the second layer of painting was applied though.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
@Nielslutken
My heart aches. I would be furious if it was my stereo. For next year's festival you could consider taking it to the Agora storage. It's free and I used it everyday (sometimes 3-5 times a day). It's the same place where you can get your phones charged.
It may be a little walk before you get there but when it's 1000 $ at stake I'm more than happy to do it
Sorry for offtopic btw.
My heart aches. I would be furious if it was my stereo. For next year's festival you could consider taking it to the Agora storage. It's free and I used it everyday (sometimes 3-5 times a day). It's the same place where you can get your phones charged.
It may be a little walk before you get there but when it's 1000 $ at stake I'm more than happy to do it
Sorry for offtopic btw.
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Hi Saturnus we spoke briefly about LiFePO4 batteries at this years Roskilde Festival. I tried to find a reseller for them and went to the wiki for rescue! but i got stuck with this comment: "shorai batteries are CCE rated". Do you know any retail store where they can get the batteries in the standard 7AH lead acid size where they are not CCE rated?
I just need a quick clarification regarding the AM Mode of the AMP9 Basic, which were briefly discussed on the Facebook Boominator page.
I need to bridge these two with jumpers to disable AM mode, right?
I need to bridge these two with jumpers to disable AM mode, right?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
EV-Power | LiFePO4 Battery Pack (12V/7.5Ah PCM)
Note: Shipping is rather steep.
You can also get li-ion packs instead. Just note these e-bay have around 65-70% of their stated capacity. You could for example get 2 "18000mah" packs. Gaffaed together these will have almost the exact same size and weight of a 7Ah SLA but have an actual capacity of around 24Ah.
Electronics, Cars, Fashion, Collectibles, Coupons and Mo
Note: Please read carefully on how to use standard li-ion batteries and that they need special chargers, unlike LiFePO4 batteries.
these guys seem like a good place to get lifepo4 batteries from.
HobbyKing R/C Hobby Store :
for eg
HobbyKing R/C Hobby Store : ZIPPY Flightmax 8400mAh 4S2P 30C LiFePo4 Pack (DE Warehouse)
or
HobbyKing R/C Hobby Store : ZIPPY Flightmax 4200mAh 4S2P 30C LiFePo4 Pack (DE Warehouse)
and as far as the chargers go they are pretty cheap.
for eg
HobbyKing R/C Hobby Store : Turnigy Accucel-6 50W 6A Balancer/Charger (DE Warehouse)
Although everything from hobby king does seem a little more expensive in Europe, also there appears to be amuch lessor range of pruduct.
HobbyKing R/C Hobby Store :
for eg
HobbyKing R/C Hobby Store : ZIPPY Flightmax 8400mAh 4S2P 30C LiFePo4 Pack (DE Warehouse)
or
HobbyKing R/C Hobby Store : ZIPPY Flightmax 4200mAh 4S2P 30C LiFePo4 Pack (DE Warehouse)
and as far as the chargers go they are pretty cheap.
for eg
HobbyKing R/C Hobby Store : Turnigy Accucel-6 50W 6A Balancer/Charger (DE Warehouse)
Although everything from hobby king does seem a little more expensive in Europe, also there appears to be amuch lessor range of pruduct.
Interesting but very expensive compared to other places, especially considering the batteries don't have a battery management built-in and aren't in standard sizes. And that the charger as far as I can see needs an external power supply as well.
Yes, battery charger needs external PSU, 5 bucks of ebay.
Battery management system, not entirely sure about that. I know each battery has a we board with some things on it under the heat shrink. Have not pulled one to pieces to see exactly what is there. I guess it may manage discharge in some way as they are designed for applications that entail full discharge in 4 to 5 minutes.
Price is much more attractive where I reside for sure. Not sure why its more over your way, freight I suppose.
The size or aspect ratio of these is standard to there intended application as a motor cycle, car or backup battery is to its intended application. Since we makin boominators I don’t see this as being an issue.
Battery management system, not entirely sure about that. I know each battery has a we board with some things on it under the heat shrink. Have not pulled one to pieces to see exactly what is there. I guess it may manage discharge in some way as they are designed for applications that entail full discharge in 4 to 5 minutes.
Price is much more attractive where I reside for sure. Not sure why its more over your way, freight I suppose.
The size or aspect ratio of these is standard to there intended application as a motor cycle, car or backup battery is to its intended application. Since we makin boominators I don’t see this as being an issue.
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