Solonator? Super compact less expensive boominator with 100w?
Speaking of $1000 expense as something to avoid: I'm considering making a solonator--only one woofer. The operating voltage would be a lot higher for its 100 watts; however, it would be very compact, lighter and less expensive.
The slight complexity is from running big horns in stereo or maybe midrange+horn and on a second amplifier. Bi-amp doesn't require clipping the treble when the bass amp clips.
If only one woofer is going full blast instead of four running lightly, then the one woofer example has the same flaw as any 2-way speaker, which is seriously scrambled/shaken vocals as the woofer operates near x-max. So, the one woofer version would require a considerably lower crossover point. It would probably require a midrange/midbass added for replaying vocals unshaken.
Summary for Solonator?
Subtract 3 woofers and at least 70% of the big cabinetry
Run the one woofer to 100w instead of 4 woofers to 12w apiece
Add a little stereo treble amplifier run from a buck card
Add a large P-Core inductor and a midbass teamed by 1st series cross
Styling? Of course we probably couldn't make it this compact:
Has anyone else made quarter of a boominator project?
How do we make a quarter-boominator (solonator? grandson of boominator?) easy to carry rather than leave it sitting around?
Speaking of $1000 expense as something to avoid: I'm considering making a solonator--only one woofer. The operating voltage would be a lot higher for its 100 watts; however, it would be very compact, lighter and less expensive.
The slight complexity is from running big horns in stereo or maybe midrange+horn and on a second amplifier. Bi-amp doesn't require clipping the treble when the bass amp clips.
If only one woofer is going full blast instead of four running lightly, then the one woofer example has the same flaw as any 2-way speaker, which is seriously scrambled/shaken vocals as the woofer operates near x-max. So, the one woofer version would require a considerably lower crossover point. It would probably require a midrange/midbass added for replaying vocals unshaken.
Summary for Solonator?
Subtract 3 woofers and at least 70% of the big cabinetry
Run the one woofer to 100w instead of 4 woofers to 12w apiece
Add a little stereo treble amplifier run from a buck card
Add a large P-Core inductor and a midbass teamed by 1st series cross
Styling? Of course we probably couldn't make it this compact:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Has anyone else made quarter of a boominator project?
How do we make a quarter-boominator (solonator? grandson of boominator?) easy to carry rather than leave it sitting around?
The Boominator is a bipolar speaker. Even making it with 2 woofers is stretching the concept. One with one woofer is non-sense.
To illustrate the hidden inconvenience of greater portability--a single woofer device couldn't compete unless it were placed against a wall or used in a room. Because the usage is actually very different, perhaps the mention of a one woofer small scale device did not belong on this thread. But, at least it serves to give the question of: How small and light can you go for a reasonably effective 2 woofer bipolar speaker?
Last edited:
Saturnus, Count me in
1). Monacor exceeds the bass performance of the very loud Tang Band W4-1052SDF even if the exact same amount of decibels are entered into WinISD's model parameters for both woofers. See attachment. 2). Despite the international shipping the Monacor was considerably less expensive, whether or not considering that less complex crossover makes an additional price difference. Reference: Mini Bass Speaker SP-60/4 by Monacor 3). The cabinet size for a pair is 1 liter smaller for the Monacor.
The super loud 2 wheeled thing: Hopefully I can manufacture a Halfinator that just fits a bicycle rack (or barely bigger).
Now I wonder about using the clip signal pin of my TA2020 to operate a volume maximizing compressor limiter engaging only instead of clipping (not full time compressing), so as to increase the "broadcast range" like a real prosound amp could do. If doable, that could make Miniature Halfinator play approximately as loud as the full size Halfinator. I wonder why there aren't any TA2020's pre-configured that way?
Did I do the tuning right (see attachment)? It seems that one wouldn't want to cut the efficiency with a BSC circuit or push extra hard with a bass booster either of which run the amp out of power easily. Or, there's this boost:
Okay, you're awesome. I was convinced that I should build a miniature Halfinator. There was a lot of fascinating reading in the boombox/portable index document The answer that I got from reading there was: Miniature Halfinator with Monacor SP-60/4
1). Monacor exceeds the bass performance of the very loud Tang Band W4-1052SDF even if the exact same amount of decibels are entered into WinISD's model parameters for both woofers. See attachment. 2). Despite the international shipping the Monacor was considerably less expensive, whether or not considering that less complex crossover makes an additional price difference. Reference: Mini Bass Speaker SP-60/4 by Monacor 3). The cabinet size for a pair is 1 liter smaller for the Monacor.
The super loud 2 wheeled thing: Hopefully I can manufacture a Halfinator that just fits a bicycle rack (or barely bigger).
Now I wonder about using the clip signal pin of my TA2020 to operate a volume maximizing compressor limiter engaging only instead of clipping (not full time compressing), so as to increase the "broadcast range" like a real prosound amp could do. If doable, that could make Miniature Halfinator play approximately as loud as the full size Halfinator. I wonder why there aren't any TA2020's pre-configured that way?
Did I do the tuning right (see attachment)? It seems that one wouldn't want to cut the efficiency with a BSC circuit or push extra hard with a bass booster either of which run the amp out of power easily. Or, there's this boost:
Attachments
It would be really great if you offered a discount for quads or pairs of these: Model KSN 1001A And similar products, perhaps with a coupon code of "Boominator" for 4 tweeters or "Halfinator" for 2 tweeters? Is that doable?
For promoting your product, see the tweeter entry at the Boominator Wiki <<<link Where you could give a factual description and link to your tweeters.
There is some competition:
Almost every high efficiency dynamic tweeter, especially the long range of TI.
These from Pyle Pyle Pro PSN1165 4.35" Piezo Horn Tweeter Pair 272-100 sold by the pair
These from MCM MCM Audio Select Piezo Horn Tweeter 53-800 which are not as good as yours but they're better than goldwood.
Last edited:
Piezo Source
If members of DIYaudio and readers of Boominator Wiki want a discount for 4 or 2 of the original KSN1001A then contact us for a discount code and we'd be happy to share, contact us for a store discount. Very happy to support audiophiles.
Piezo Source - Contact Us
Piezo Source Webstore
If members of DIYaudio and readers of Boominator Wiki want a discount for 4 or 2 of the original KSN1001A then contact us for a discount code and we'd be happy to share, contact us for a store discount. Very happy to support audiophiles.
Piezo Source - Contact Us
Piezo Source Webstore
@Phaedras - You used some super awesome looking pigmented paint for your bastard boominator. Where did you get that from?
I have been looking into adding a watt-meter, but i can't seem to find a simple one with a simple lcd screen intended for panel mounting.. Does anyone know where to get a cheap and simple wattmeter?
Thanks!
I have been looking into adding a watt-meter, but i can't seem to find a simple one with a simple lcd screen intended for panel mounting.. Does anyone know where to get a cheap and simple wattmeter?
Thanks!
@Phaedras - You used some super awesome looking pigmented paint for your bastard boominator. Where did you get that from?
Thanks!
It's Duratex rolled on with a special Duratex roller I believe. It's bought from SpeakerHardware.com
Ok guys, can someone help me with à big problem. My boominator is almost done, but My problem is that when i raise the volume to the highest i get som noise. It sounds like a vibrating tone. I dont know how to really explain the noise, but it sounds bad! Anyone who know my problem?
My setup is:
Hp-10w
Qlm-1005 peizo
Sinustec ST-A 100.2 amp
1x 7,5Ah 12V
1x 7,2Ah 12V
My setup is:
Hp-10w
Qlm-1005 peizo
Sinustec ST-A 100.2 amp
1x 7,5Ah 12V
1x 7,2Ah 12V
Problem solved then. Get a proper amp. If you don't wanna splash out then just get a TA2024 mkII to try it out. It'll only set you back $8 to try.
MKll TA2024 Fully Finished Tested PCB Power Amplifier Board 2x15W | eBay
Hi again
Hello again,
It has now been more than a year since i started my project. At that i time i had all the ingredients, all wood was cut and finished. Since then i had a baby so that kept me busy. Now i am starting to have some more time and trying to remember all the stuff again and where i left.
I left the project when i had to glue the grill, with the driver then on the wood. I remember trying and thought this ain't never going to work so i have taken some pictures now. I still don't know how to proceed with this. My biggest concern is how the glue should hold the grill and the driver together onto the wood.
I know that you @saturnus told me once that the gasket that comes with the grill should not be used and that the glue should hold but when i tried last time with the glue that's shown in the picture it was a disaster. Maybe i am missing something. Any ideas ?
Hello again,
It has now been more than a year since i started my project. At that i time i had all the ingredients, all wood was cut and finished. Since then i had a baby so that kept me busy. Now i am starting to have some more time and trying to remember all the stuff again and where i left.
I left the project when i had to glue the grill, with the driver then on the wood. I remember trying and thought this ain't never going to work so i have taken some pictures now. I still don't know how to proceed with this. My biggest concern is how the glue should hold the grill and the driver together onto the wood.
I know that you @saturnus told me once that the gasket that comes with the grill should not be used and that the glue should hold but when i tried last time with the glue that's shown in the picture it was a disaster. Maybe i am missing something. Any ideas ?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
oh well then acrylic silicone it is. I pressume he has the grill between the wood and the driver without the rubber gasket that comes with the grill ? Also i would be curios how he fittet the screws because i looked at it and you need to be very lucky to hit the holes from the grill when putting a screw through the driver.
Yes.
You don't need luck really. The screws go through the grill quite easily even if you miss the holes.