No effect on efficinecy or power output, no.
You pay for quality. And because you solder it yourself you can choose design variations as well. It's harder to make the needed modifications on a ready-made amplifier.
The needed modifications are: Change the input cap to a much smaller type. 220nF is recommended for the Boominator. The input resistors and feedback resistors also needs to be correct values for ultra-high gain which is not always the case in ready-made amplifiers.
Hey Phaedras, the wiki's getting spammed:
Recent changes - Boominator
Might want to put some restrictions on account creation.
Recent changes - Boominator
Might want to put some restrictions on account creation.
Does it matter? You can't find any of these "contributions" unless you hit "random page". They're not accessible from the content list.
Naturally they fill up space so they have to be pruned eventually.
Doesn't matter too much, just makes random page / recent changes pages useless at this point in time. Still, any of these idiots could start editing live pages.
Wow, that was a lot of spam.. I've cleaned it up and removed more than 900 pages that was created and deleted 600 spamusers.. I've restricted the WIKI hard, as anons can no longer edit and you need to email me to get an account if you want to contribute..
I'm guessing there won't be that many adding and editing and as soon as you have a confirmed account you can edit all you want
I've also added gmarsh and Saturnus as sysops - so they can block, ban, warn, account create etc etc etc..
I'm guessing there won't be that many adding and editing and as soon as you have a confirmed account you can edit all you want
I've also added gmarsh and Saturnus as sysops - so they can block, ban, warn, account create etc etc etc..
Add Red and Black wires to all of the speaker drivers (extra long and then trim it out later)?
Anyway, after you have it dry fit, or at least assemble enough to hold something up (and double-check panel sizes), then you can proceed to pilot hole drill and countersink drill for the screws to fit nicely without any cracking of the wood.
Perhaps someone wiser then I could contribute the suggested order for assembling the panels?
Thanks but i am most interested how to continue from here with the panels assembly, i am in control with the electronics part. Maybe i am just asking silly questions that's why no one is answering.
Awesome!! This will definately be beneficial to some! I was actually thinking about doing it myself and let you give your verdict.
Some questions about the design as it is now:
1. The square piezo cut-outs - are these the KSN-1005A while the round cut-outs are the KSN-1001A?
2. The recessed dish on the top - as I've never tried using something like this before - are you supposed to cut in the metal and make cut-outs for switches etc.?
I see that you have changed the way the boominator is assembled. Especially the way the top is now assembled good change. Also, the middle brace cut-out holes are now equally big. This will also make it easier when assembling the box.
Thank you for your work, Saturnus, once again.
The round ones are for the KSN-1001A (or replicas). That's correct.
The square ones are for the originally used bubble horn tweeters that I together with Home page will put back into production. Samples are on it's way, and unless there are significant changes, they should be available for sale this autumn. Price point not settled yet but will be around but less than €10 each.
The center brace cut-outs are not only equally sized, they are also equally spaced with 92mm between each. Both horizontally and vertically. Diameter of the cut-outs can be anything from 63mm to 76mm. Whatever size you can find or have a cup drill. Recommended is the 68mm as on the drawing. If you use 76mm you have to be very careful when drilling them.
The recessed dish on top is a Adam Hall 8705 (BLK for black). It's pretty easy to drill if you buy steel drills. And if you need square holes for eg. a USB port, you can Dremel it.
On the bottom to hold the battery inside there are a number of options ranging from just having a large washer on each side to getting an Adam Hall flip handle back plate that fits the hole. I've not shown this because options are so numerous.
And as you have noticed there are a number of small changes to make it more easy to DIY. Hence the DIY part of the drawings name. When I get around to it, I'll make a PRO version of the drawing with interlocking routings.
Thanks, Rubenn for your compliments.
Hey everyone
I have been following this thread for some time now, and have finally decided that its time to build one
I have some ideas in mind, but they seem to be a little problematic.
As a guitarist, i am a huge fan of old guitar amps, and thought it would be cool to make my Boominator in the same style, coated in some black leather like material and with black mesh covering the drivers http://www.allin.ie/assets/product_images/Marshall_1960B.jpg?1309295313
The problem i am facing, is that guitar cabinets are not bipolar, and are thus easily constructed from the rear. But the boominator has drivers on both sides, making it virtually impossible to construct in this fashion. I can't get my head round how to accomplish this...
Another problem is how to make the rounded edges, what tools would i need for this job? I know that some higher end guitar amps, have interlocked(?) edges, like in this example http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r305/nsureit/ac15_h1tvl_back.jpg
Here's my shopping list so far:
4x Motorola KSN1001A
4x P.Audio HP-10W
2x 12v 7Ah SLA
AMP6-Basic-Sneaky
12mm filmed birch plywood 9 layer (not sure where to get this?)
Epoxy
Plastic padding chemical metal
Solar panel (I'm thinking of having this external, with a cable, so i can leave it at home if i don't need it)
Fuse
Resistors
Cable (any recommendations?)
Have i forgotten anything?
Hope you can help, and thanks for all the info you have shared so far. I will hopefully meet you all at Roskilde next year
Regards - Kasper Jack
I have been following this thread for some time now, and have finally decided that its time to build one
I have some ideas in mind, but they seem to be a little problematic.
As a guitarist, i am a huge fan of old guitar amps, and thought it would be cool to make my Boominator in the same style, coated in some black leather like material and with black mesh covering the drivers http://www.allin.ie/assets/product_images/Marshall_1960B.jpg?1309295313
The problem i am facing, is that guitar cabinets are not bipolar, and are thus easily constructed from the rear. But the boominator has drivers on both sides, making it virtually impossible to construct in this fashion. I can't get my head round how to accomplish this...
Another problem is how to make the rounded edges, what tools would i need for this job? I know that some higher end guitar amps, have interlocked(?) edges, like in this example http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r305/nsureit/ac15_h1tvl_back.jpg
Here's my shopping list so far:
4x Motorola KSN1001A
4x P.Audio HP-10W
2x 12v 7Ah SLA
AMP6-Basic-Sneaky
12mm filmed birch plywood 9 layer (not sure where to get this?)
Epoxy
Plastic padding chemical metal
Solar panel (I'm thinking of having this external, with a cable, so i can leave it at home if i don't need it)
Fuse
Resistors
Cable (any recommendations?)
Have i forgotten anything?
Hope you can help, and thanks for all the info you have shared so far. I will hopefully meet you all at Roskilde next year
Regards - Kasper Jack
Saturnus,
Maybe this question is already answered so here goes:
If I want to make a smaller version, is it possible to adjust all these sizes to make the boombox smaller, with smaller components offcourse (e.g. sp-60/4 or sp-60/8 instead of HP10W)?
TIA.
The small boombox would be for outdoor + indoor use but if possible smaller
There's already several halfinator sketch-up drawings.
I'm not going to do one, or recommend one. The variations are too numerous.
The "middle wall" is the center brace. In the Boominator it serves a dual purpose. It braces the top, end, and electronic compartment cabinet walls so that cabinet vibrations are minimized and those vibrations remaining are shifted up in frequency where they are more effectively dampened by the plywood.
The second purpose is that the holes are spaced and sized so that upper mid bass/low treble is internally diffracted and not reflected directly out the opposite facing speaker. This makes it possible to have a midwoofer cabinet without dampening material as dampening material will have an adverse effect on bass performance.
In a halfinator, the center brace is made without holes, and the whole port/handle assembly is removed, and replaced by a separate port in both cabinet halves. The handle is then up to you how you make it.
I'm not going to do one, or recommend one. The variations are too numerous.
The "middle wall" is the center brace. In the Boominator it serves a dual purpose. It braces the top, end, and electronic compartment cabinet walls so that cabinet vibrations are minimized and those vibrations remaining are shifted up in frequency where they are more effectively dampened by the plywood.
The second purpose is that the holes are spaced and sized so that upper mid bass/low treble is internally diffracted and not reflected directly out the opposite facing speaker. This makes it possible to have a midwoofer cabinet without dampening material as dampening material will have an adverse effect on bass performance.
In a halfinator, the center brace is made without holes, and the whole port/handle assembly is removed, and replaced by a separate port in both cabinet halves. The handle is then up to you how you make it.
thanks for the quick answer. actually i was not asking for a desgn by you
can´t you make the halfinator with only one chamber instead of two, by making holes in the "middle wall"? as it won´t need any dampening
I would not recommend it as that would mean you have stereo in the same bass reflex cabinet and that is not a good idea. Better to sacrifice a little on midrange reproduction. A halfinator will not sound even remotely as good as a Boominator anyways.
If it's purely for budget and portability issues then I recommend a Qubinator instead of a halfinator. It'll be roughly the same sound as a halfinator but in a smaller size and at a lower price.
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