I would like to mention 4 things about soldering integrity.
http://i1142.photobucket.com/albums/n603/rulleboi/Roskilde Festival boombox 2010/16062010327.jpg
http://i1142.photobucket.com/albums/n603/rulleboi/Roskilde Festival boombox 2010/16062010328.jpg
http://i1142.photobucket.com/albums/n603/rulleboi/Roskilde Festival boombox 2010/16062010329.jpg
1). 30W Iron: When you have a connection that sticks to the iron, you need a hotter iron. I have a 15W/30W switchable, but I wish it was 5W more.
2). 63/37 Solder: When you have a connection that is exposed to vibration, that connection needs 63/37 solder.
3). GEL FLUX: It will flow your solder to a beautiful perfect mirror shine, like a polished chrome Buick bumper.When you have a connection that won't cooperate, that connection needs fluxed and Gel Flux (petroleum jelly+rosin flux) is easiest to work, the lid is beyond impossible, and the circuit board needs cleaned with Simple Green (or Dawn) + 90% (or better) Alcohol to remove excess flux.
4). Tinning: If a connection is especially stubborn, sometimes it is necessary to Flux parts, apply solder (tinning) to the individual parts, and Flux them again before putting them together. It is easier to solder a tinned part to a tinned wire, but it is harder to solder a non-tinned part to a bare copper wire. This can also repair old connections to remove cut-outs and remove intermittent fault static.
That's some pretty horrific prep and soldering.
I need help.
Whilst playing my boominator i got a shortcut between the 2 internal batteries and one external.
After this i cannot get any sound from my speakers.
when the amp gets connected i hear a "pop" but no analog source seams to work.
this happens now, a coupple of days before roskilde T.T
will post a couple of pics on the amp as it is. if that can help.
thank you very much, I apriciate all help i can get. or if someone perhaps has an amp he/she can sell me at roskilde.
Regards. Marcus.
Whilst playing my boominator i got a shortcut between the 2 internal batteries and one external.
After this i cannot get any sound from my speakers.
when the amp gets connected i hear a "pop" but no analog source seams to work.
this happens now, a coupple of days before roskilde T.T
will post a couple of pics on the amp as it is. if that can help.
thank you very much, I apriciate all help i can get. or if someone perhaps has an amp he/she can sell me at roskilde.
Regards. Marcus.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Yeah. That's the only thing I can see as well. However, it had been shorted to ground there would have been a massive puff of smoke and the whole area would have been blackened. The solders aren't very good locking though so it could have influence.
Hi, I'm almost done building my first halfinator and I managed to order PHT407Ts instead of 407Ns. Whoops. Can someone perhaps help me figure out how I should build the crossover filter for these as I have absolutely no idea what I'm doing regarding the crossover filter. Is it the same as the 407N? And could someone please elaborate on what's most suitable for a halfinator, parallel or serial connected speakers?
I also have a 10W solar panel from kerychip.dk, is it safe to use it with a SLA without a charge controller? It's a 38Ah battery so it seems safe to me as long as I don't let it charge while the music isn't playing.
I've read through the thread several times, but I've gotten pretty tired most of the times so I might have missed crucial Saturnus posts, hope this hasn't been answered before.
Best regards
I also have a 10W solar panel from kerychip.dk, is it safe to use it with a SLA without a charge controller? It's a 38Ah battery so it seems safe to me as long as I don't let it charge while the music isn't playing.
I've read through the thread several times, but I've gotten pretty tired most of the times so I might have missed crucial Saturnus posts, hope this hasn't been answered before.
Best regards
i dont know with the crossover, but about the solarpanel then you are absolutely rightHi, I'm almost done building my first halfinator and I managed to order PHT407Ts instead of 407Ns. Whoops. Can someone perhaps help me figure out how I should build the crossover filter for these as I have absolutely no idea what I'm doing regarding the crossover filter. Is it the same as the 407N? And could someone please elaborate on what's most suitable for a halfinator, parallel or serial connected speakers?
I also have a 10W solar panel from kerychip.dk, is it safe to use it with a SLA without a charge controller? It's a 38Ah battery so it seems safe to me as long as I don't let it charge while the music isn't playing.
I've read through the thread several times, but I've gotten pretty tired most of the times so I might have missed crucial Saturnus posts, hope this hasn't been answered before.
Best regards
Have tested this now and it didnt solve my problem.
maybe the guys at the local electronics store can do something about it, turned it over to them and now well see what the problem was. at least i hope so.
Thanks for the help.
Maybe if this doesnt work someone will be able to sell me an amp at roskilde?
Med vänliga hälsningar, Marcus
You'll need a schottky diode in series with solar panel V+ in order to avoid using the solar panel as a battery powered heater or breakage or running the battery down whenever it gets dark.
You might want to consider a charge controller if the solar panel charges the battery unattended for more than 4 days. But unless given a very long time in the brightest of sunshine, a cute little 10w solar panel doesn't do much to a 38Ah battery.
**** you plus-elektronik.de
Dear Saturnus, or anyone else with boominator experience, I just got a mail from plus-elektronik.de who have the goddamn worst customer service in the universe. They sent me one speaker and two tweeters with GLS and one speaker with DHL, the one sent with DHL was apparently "lost". I'm pretty sure he never sent it and just felt like screwing me over, but at least he's offering a refund now after a months wait.
As the HP10W speakers are sold out all over the world I'll need a replacement ASAP. What should I get? It's probably a bad idea to mount them back to back if they aren't the same, but something that will act somewhat similar for a reasonable price (120$ or less) would be really good. Any recommendations?
Thanks, I was of course planning to put in a schottky diode to avoid frying the solar panel I'll definitely avoid charging it for too long, thanks a lot!
Dear Saturnus, or anyone else with boominator experience, I just got a mail from plus-elektronik.de who have the goddamn worst customer service in the universe. They sent me one speaker and two tweeters with GLS and one speaker with DHL, the one sent with DHL was apparently "lost". I'm pretty sure he never sent it and just felt like screwing me over, but at least he's offering a refund now after a months wait.
As the HP10W speakers are sold out all over the world I'll need a replacement ASAP. What should I get? It's probably a bad idea to mount them back to back if they aren't the same, but something that will act somewhat similar for a reasonable price (120$ or less) would be really good. Any recommendations?
Thanks, I was of course planning to put in a schottky diode to avoid frying the solar panel
I'll definitely avoid charging it for too long, thanks a lot!I know HP10T isn't considered a viable alternative but could it perhaps do if super high fidelity isn't the most important thing anymore now that we can't get a hp10w anyway? I've considered building a more portable system using a single HP10T style unit anyway for a backpack-like system that wont break your back so it could be reused for that while we wait for a new hp10w for next years Roskilde
Edit for clarification: a HP10W and a HP10T in one boominator. Am I completely retarded or will it work relatively well? We'll could just spend extra money on beer to reduce the change in sound quality.
Alternatively I could just use a single HP10W and deal with it.
Edit for clarification: a HP10W and a HP10T in one boominator. Am I completely retarded or will it work relatively well? We'll could just spend extra money on beer to reduce the change in sound quality.
Alternatively I could just use a single HP10W and deal with it.
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Hi!
Thanks for this beautiful thread! We have been able to put together our own boominator by reading it
But, now, 1 day before leaving for Roskilde our Amp is suddenly dead
Sooo, does anyone know if its possible to pick up a new one somewhere? Or something similar that will do work as an emergency solution? We are driving from Oslo to København so im thinkng there must be a store selling something useful somwhere along the way..
If someone got a spare one that they can sell too us on Roskilde we will love you forever!!!!!!!!!! Send you postcards every christmas
Thanks for this beautiful thread! We have been able to put together our own boominator by reading it
But, now, 1 day before leaving for Roskilde our Amp is suddenly dead
Sooo, does anyone know if its possible to pick up a new one somewhere? Or something similar that will do work as an emergency solution? We are driving from Oslo to København so im thinkng there must be a store selling something useful somwhere along the way..If someone got a spare one that they can sell too us on Roskilde we will love you forever!!!!!!!!!! Send you postcards every christmas
I'm thinking 2 of TA2021 (excellent voltage tolerances) or 2 of Sure's TA2024 (watch the voltage more carefully with TA2024's) would be a more durable way to operate 4 of 8 ohm woofers. You'd quadruple your crossover expense that way, but the amplifiers shouldn't blow out. And, at least there would be some redundancy if you did happen to blow an amp.
P.S.
Mysteriously exploded amplifiers is quite typical of Class D, Class T, H, G, and other switching technologies used in outdoor prosound. When using these technologies I believe it mandatory to carry a spare amplifier, in some/any way you can.
P.S.
Mysteriously exploded amplifiers is quite typical of Class D, Class T, H, G, and other switching technologies used in outdoor prosound. When using these technologies I believe it mandatory to carry a spare amplifier, in some/any way you can.
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I couldnt agree more. I have not yet seen it happen with my own amplifiee the previous years at RF, but if your amp explodes at the start of the festival due to heat or someone pulling some wires, you're left without music the rest of the festival.