So that leaves BSC as the remaining circuit. I have seen folks do away with that by buying 2x drivers per side and mounting one firing upwards to supplement the lost response. I imagine that introduces it's own issues, but It is inexpensive enough at least. And some cost made up by no circuit parts too.
Is that to avoid a XO on the second driver? Using 90 degree off axis behavior to make it roll off?
You can always just put it on the front and add a coil. I could be wrong, but even though the 1m on axis result of a top mounted driver might look good, you are still getting the higher frequencies in room, specifically bouncing directly off the ceiling and possible creating phase and cancellation issues. I guess it’d be an Omni response for the top driver which I’ve never used before.
You can also use the matching 8 ohm woofer 1.5 way technique that I talked about a couple pages back. Or even use that top mounted perhaps. I think using a second full range would add too much baffle step compensation, plus it makes more sense to use a woofer for the low end reinforcement. I’ll be trying this in the next few weeks and will report back. I’m waiting for the SB20FRPC to get back in stock. They told me they were expecting them at the end of last week, so it should hopefully be any day now.
EDIT Looking at your measurements, they look pretty good. Maybe take a number of measurements and create a power response average to see if you’re missing something.
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Hi All,
I have come across 2 datasheets for this driver which are attached below. One is from a supplier and one is from the SB site. The one labelled preliminary is the current one on the SB site. As you can see, the Q values and VAS are slightly different.
Is it possible the design has changed slightly since its introduction, or is this likely just the result of further testing? I'm asking because I would like to know what parameters I am buying in the event I have an early model. I have emailed SB but am yet to hear a reply.
Many thanks,
Greg
I have come across 2 datasheets for this driver which are attached below. One is from a supplier and one is from the SB site. The one labelled preliminary is the current one on the SB site. As you can see, the Q values and VAS are slightly different.
Is it possible the design has changed slightly since its introduction, or is this likely just the result of further testing? I'm asking because I would like to know what parameters I am buying in the event I have an early model. I have emailed SB but am yet to hear a reply.
Many thanks,
Greg
Hey guys, I am thinking of using these as car door panel speakers in my Miata. Do you think it would be worth trying out? And would you suggest to use them full band or with a 2-way crossover and a tweeter at ear level? I guess with the cabin gain it could produce a satisfying response? Sorry if this is not a good place to post this.
Yes, I would use it only fullrange.
Don't forget to put some damping behind the driver. In car Hifi they often leave that out but it's important to do it.
Try this tweak to minimize distortion: 0,22 ohms, 5 watt in series with the driver. If you want tell me if you hear a difference with and without. You can use anything from 0,15 to 0,47 ohms.
Don't forget to put some damping behind the driver. In car Hifi they often leave that out but it's important to do it.
Try this tweak to minimize distortion: 0,22 ohms, 5 watt in series with the driver. If you want tell me if you hear a difference with and without. You can use anything from 0,15 to 0,47 ohms.
I would not use them in car doors. I would be worried that the bumps and vibrations in a driving car could cause the voicecoil to rubb. An other thing is that car doors can get really hot in Greece. The voice coil sure has glue that is heat resistant but the rubber surround?
But on the other hand, the drivers are cheap so if the life span is shorter than drivers intended to be in cars, it can be OK.
But on the other hand, the drivers are cheap so if the life span is shorter than drivers intended to be in cars, it can be OK.
The ultimate DIY tweak in my eyes is aluminum foil on paper cones.
Here a Beyma 8 ag/n
See
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/how-to-make-a-loudspeaker-sandwich-cone.402917/
Here a Beyma 8 ag/n
See
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/how-to-make-a-loudspeaker-sandwich-cone.402917/
I think that’s too big personally, but it looks like it works. A QB3 alignment with an f3 around 30 might sound too boomy with room gain.
I’d do around 65-70l tuned to 35Hz. It’ll play better with typical room gain, have better power handling and f6/f10 is roughly the same.
A lot of people shoot for lowest f3 and ignore room gain and power handling. Troels and Jeff Bagby have pretty simple worksheets to see the effects of room gain on your design.
I’d do around 65-70l tuned to 35Hz. It’ll play better with typical room gain, have better power handling and f6/f10 is roughly the same.
A lot of people shoot for lowest f3 and ignore room gain and power handling. Troels and Jeff Bagby have pretty simple worksheets to see the effects of room gain on your design.
Can you give some more info about this? I am not sure I understood either part. Regarding damping I was thinking of damping with felt the whole inside of the door panel.
If this was ultimate, wee'd see it much more... ;-)
What does the tweak intend to do and can you provide relevant clinical data that supports that there is a benefit?
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