Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

As long as you use solid-core, it'll be very good. To make an uber-cable though, I think all the messing about and time to strip it down and weave your own cable might not be worth it.

If you enjoy that sort of thing then I'd go for it. Personally I wouldn't have the patience for it. I've been meaning to make myself a woven diy mains cable, but haven't got around to it yet...

Lee.
 
I hear that about all the messing about!!

Simon just made a couple of power cables, but they're not very long, are they?

I did an eBay search for Kimber and got links to some Chinese "Kimber" stuff - Brent reckoned they were fakes, but if they were cheap enough they might be worth a punt for starters until my 63 gets to uber status (that should be, IF it gets to uber status!!)

Jim
 
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rowemeister said:
The black blobs are black hot glue. It is much better than clear or white, it does not go brittle and has a kind of silicon feel and grip about it once set. Also when lifting the glue off it does not lift any tracks of take any effort.

Hi Brent

Can you point your source ?;)

I am using translucid type and it is very hard to model.. After drying it looks indestructible / ungluable... very bad.

By the way... I am very impressed with the clocks and psu.... Thank you for the state of the art work.

Note:
Do you solder those SMD by hand ?

Looks like this job can be compared to building a phono cart by hand.... well almost..:devilr:

Right now I am just enjoying all my cd collection as if it was new.

Regards

Ricardo
 
jimh0612 said:
Looks nice, Simon.

Any impressions yet, and if they're good, how about sharing your recipe?;)

Jim

Seems to have opened the sound up a little and improved the dynamics. It's done no harm!

Recipe:

Cheap Chinese silver plated Wattgate clone from Ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI....m=270248168281&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=017

Chord Odyssey speaker cable provides the wiring. Thick silver plated copper, standard twisted pair geometry, teflon insulation. It's not cheap stuff but I had a couple of pieces lying around, so used them, hence the different length leads.

Whatever 3 pin power plugs I had (one cheapie, one MK Tough Plug). Both to be upgraded to silver-plated Tough Plugs that I've seen around. Copper fuse shorting will go in there too (my equipment and extension are fused and my house is on MCBs and an RCD, so don't bother telling me off).

Wow, I'm banging on, sorry. Very off-topic.

Anyway, I go with the theory of lowering the impedance improves the sound, and if you can make it look cool with nylon braid and blue plugs that's a bonus.

Simon
 

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jimh0612 said:
The conductors could be stripped out and woven similar to KImber, I think I've seen something like that done with wire wrap wire? (if that makes sense??)

I did it with, I think 54, strands of CAT5. It took many hours, gave me terrible blisters and ended up too short to reach the speakers. Made a stunning but impractical power cable. I mean stunning in the sense it was an OBVIOUS change! Not heard such a change in power cables since.

Thomo said:
As long as you use solid-core, it'll be very good. To make an uber-cable though, I think all the messing about and time to strip it down and weave your own cable might not be worth it.

Agreed, I'm sure it can make a good-sounding cable but at great cost to your fingers, time and sanity. The proper stuff will also be inflexible and nigh on impossible to terminate.

Just buy something like Kimber 4VS second hand from Ebay or do the simple CAT5. The PR and VS ranges use polyethylene, which I believe is a good dialectric, not having the odd "colour" of PTFE/teflon. TBH changing your speaker cable from so-so to very good will only make the same sort of difference as a cap or two in your CD player, so don't go overboard unless the source is very tweaked.

Simon
 
SimontY said:

Copper fuse shorting will go in there too (my equipment and extension are fused and my house is on MCBs and an RCD, so don't bother telling me off).

Simon

LOL

I'm a builder. Been doing my own electrics for years!!

MCB's are fine as long as they're the appropriate rating for the load and, more importantly, the cable.

RCD's are even better for earth faults.

With the right fuse in the extension lead that's as good as in the plug.

I know from your job and all the work you've done modding that you know the principles, so if you do fry yourself that's your fault!!:hot:

JIm
 
RCruz said:
Wath did you do to your sound card ?

Hi Ricardo,

I just put some nicer caps on it, copying from others, altho with whatever caps were around waiting to be used.

Silmic on 5v reg for op-amps, Silmics on the DAC, Panasonic FC on DSP chip (I think that's what that is), Cerafine on incoming 12v. C1 clock and LM op-amps to add soon I hope.

The caps have helped a LOAD but the sound is still thin and lacking in ambience compared to my modified CD63KI. Of course :D

Simon
 

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jimh0612 said:
Then again, if I was going to justify spending £50 I'd probably be better with the DIY cat5 and some more of Brent's magic!!

£37.59 inc vat buys what I think is Brent's most special product.


jimh0612 said:
I can just picture you behind the sofa with your fingers in your ears and a**e in the air!! :bigeyes:

Yeh that's me mate :D

I'm getting better now though...
 
RCruz said:

Hi Brent

Can you point your source ?;)

I am using translucid type and it is very hard to model.. After drying it looks indestructible / ungluable... very bad.

By the way... I am very impressed with the clocks and psu.... Thank you for the state of the art work.

Note:
Do you solder those SMD by hand ?

Regards

Ricardo

The glue is from RS 484-9988

Yes I do SMD soldering by hand very easily, I can do chips with more that 200 pins :cannotbe:

Thanks for the compliments ;)

Brent